General Audio

Well I need to find some screws and I'm not having any luck. They are allen head machine-type screws for the chassis of an amplifier. I've searched high and low locally....from big box stores to mom-&-pop hardware stores to RC Hobby shops. Everything I've found is either too large or doesn't have the right thread pattern. Anybody have an idea of a good store or website to look on to find somewhat obscure screws ?

On a retail side of things . I am in the works of something huge, that will please every audio enthusiast on this forum . For those of you who don't know I am an internet entrepreneur, and have recently just got hooked in this market. I have something coming in the next month on a retail side of things you guys will love! Still talking to some of the companies you all know around here, but the business model is done. Not much info I know, but just wait !

so i live in the south TEXAS, and i have never taken my audio out in the winter, but a friend of mine is from the north, and he was telling me everyone he knowns in the north takes there subs and amps out of there car and keeps them in tha house, until spring, yall ever heard of that?

Hey guys I just plugged in my Fi Q 12d2 to my sundown SAX-1200(refurbished by db-r) to test and make sure everything is working properly. I have a Audiocontrol LC2i to signal the sundowns RCA to the speaker level wiring of my factory sub to the factory amp. I'm 90% sure I have all the wiring done correctly. The sundown amp remote on is ran from the LC2i output. The sundown amp light turns on when I turn on the car so I'm pretty sure the GTO on the LC2i is working properly. I wired it parallel testing out low volume with the sub just sitting on its magnet and get no sound/vibration. Ill be in the chat room if you guys want to ask questions so I can give you fastest respons…

I have been ripped off, sold short, and stolen from in this hobby plenty of times. I have never ripped anyone off, ripped equipment off of anybody, or lied about any piece of equipment I have sold. Karma came back around again today in my favor, as I received a BNIB Fi BL 15" from an ebay purchase. Cost me 250$ shipped. =] Keep it real when it comes to selling your stuff and it will come back around! It has for me! =]

So the DIA is 9.25 my box dia is 9.25 but the dcon bars stick out just a tad to far to where it wont fully be inserted into the box. Now i have to get a rubber mallet and something soft to pound it in to fit. I dont know if this is normal but i thought id put it out there

i didnt buy this yet so i dont know the directions but what do u hook it up to and power source like the ciggarete lighter or does it have to run off your amp battery or hu http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360233695794&rvr_id=144091411136&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=%3F*F%3F&GUID=3be80c1e12b0a0e202b58835ff34951c&itemid=360233695794%24&ff4=263602_263622

I was wondering do yall use the loud button on the head unit??? also what is it for?? i know when i push the button the speaker thump harder and the little speaker sound more louder.

im currently running one set of alpine type r 6.5 components on a diamond d1 250.2 with a high pass filter on. now for a 300+ dollar set of speakers when i bought them i dont think they have any midbass at all, a few shops ive been to said that they are playing jsut fine but i guess that means i need to upgrade. im planning on scrapping my 4 diamond 10s in a sealed box and going with 2 fi bl 12s ported and tuned to 32hz, but i fear that ill have a big gap where my mids dont perform. what do yall suggest in the 300-400 price range i was looking at these ZRS-710KIT - ZRS SERIES - Cadence Acoustics, LTD because i heard a set of coaxial 6.5s in the same truck i have and they …

I've got a pal who I'd like to tell is wrong, but need some technical advice to confirm my intuition. I have a Mach5 MAW-12(350wts) I've built a 1 cube(plus sub space taken) sealed box for in 3/4 MDF, as per spec's and am running off an MTX Amp with 460wts max. My good friend purchased 1 15" JBL apparently capable 650 watts(don't know the model, but a new purchase), and running off an older PG 500 wt amp. He has built a temp box he's happy with, about 1.8cubes sealed, but made of 5/8" plywood. Although his lows seem to be lower, I don't think his volume nor his sound could be if he built a new MDF Box, instead of the plywood box he currently has. I don' think he's ge…

First off this place is TOTALY different then I remember (i used to troll this site for years under the SN 144dbFiBl15) Please ignore the newb status. I guess I have been away from this site for about 4 or 5 years...man time flys. Cant look back into my past posts, and all my pics of my former setups are gone... oh well ANYWAYS... Times have changed I grew up had two kids finished my E.E. degree and bought a new truck and the audio in this thing is CRAP. I started to look out on the ole inter webs and soon realized the game has changed since I have been gone. I am looking for suggestions as to brands or models of speakers i should try to run for a LARGE cabin…

i use this box as well

Does any one of the manufactures have a 'official' youtube channel, Sundown, DC, Fi, Kicker, etc? If so whats the channel name, and if not I think it'll be a great idea. Since a huge following is on the net and such. I mean you could do burps, walk out how to tune stuff, show new products and everything else. It'll be cool to watch, and also keep me entertained at work (Im a civil drafter, it gets boring after a while....lol ). Just a thought. Enellz

Hello, so I have a dodge charger Srt with the Boston setup. I took the kicker sub outta the trunk and put in my Fi BL. When I get home from this deployment I'm looking at changing all of my inside speakers. I'm look for sound quality. The bass is there, but I want the inside to be very clean! Help me choose my setup. I'll go with 6.5s in the front door and 6x9s in the back dash. What brand and models and amp do you recommend. I'd like to get it done under $1k but that's flexible. Do you think I should add more tweeters, there is only one set in the factory setup. I'm keeping my factory NAV. And I'm looking at a JL clean sweep or Rockford Fosgate 360.. All options are welc…

half price car audio . com has what is listed as 500 foot rolls of 0 guage stinger for 180 which for me comes out to 200 shipped. Deal of the century? Horrible misprint? Isn't that false advertisement and they can get in trouble if they dont give it to me for price advertised? I've heard that the site is legit from a few people but noone has noticed the 0 guage

Can anybody explain to me what each of these does and how can it benefit the sound I'll be reproducing in my system. The deck I will be using will be the Alpine CDA-9887 Also do i have to or need to measure anything when I do time alignment I wanna be able to do this right the first time and for the last time in my vehicle. Any suggestions welcomed

Good afternoon all. I want to take a minute and let everyone know that I will be assisting you with Powerbass questions/problems. By now most of you are aware of the changes with Johnny no longer being with us, My name is Ron and I am the Eastern Regional Manager. I am also a former 12volt/ fabrication specialist. It might take me a few days to get back to some of you but this is only due to my extremely busy schedule. I am glad to be a part of the forum and look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Ron@ Powerbass

Was getting a CRAZY buzz/hum.... from the tweeters... thought it was amp.... HU pico..... not sure.... been going for a week after I switched the amps.... Well finally got it nailed to RCAs behind the HU .... BUT .... I need to find a permanent/neat way of creating this ground connection.... What I did was wrap the RCAs in copper but it is sooooo bulky...... what are some ideas? any pics or links to the idea would be greatly appreciated... I got so fcking annoyed that I took out the HU for now as I cannot tolerate the sound at all

Hey guys, I have a question about box construction. I've been building boxes for a while. I always use MDF, but will use Baltic Birch one of these days. I have always heard that glue is stronger than screws as long as it is a nice tight joint and glued properly. I have always used glue and screws for strength but have seen a lot of guys use glue and pin nails. I have only built one box using glue only but it was for a single 8" driver. Any guys have experience doing this method? I don't want to waste extra time pre-drilling and using screws if I don't have to, not looking for short cuts, just trying to save some time. I have a box that I am going to reuse but need to beef…

I dont appreciate having my email spammed by you guys 20 times in one day on black friday specials... this is outrageous

Go check out the new site TC sounds

I've notice WMD 18s on sale $175ea. I just wanna know i does it perform as far as spl/sq goes? any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

ok this is copied from my sig... its my set-up: 96 Honda Accord ex coupe 2 Infinity Reference 6022si 6.5" front doors 2 kicker SSMB6 6.5" X 9" rear deck 1 FI SSD 12" dual 2 ohm flatwind coil & bp power 1 Hifonics BXi1606D class D amp 1 Dual XIA3145 Class AB 2-Channel amp 1 farah Stinger capacitor 1 run Kicker Hyperflex 4 gauge BIG 3 upgrade stock alternator is about 80 or 90 amps,n i still got a h/o but dont have it in b/c i gotta find out what it does at idle... im about to do another run of 4awg under the hood, but i was wondering if it is better or worst with the cap with my current set-up and then with the h/o alternator, which is 130amps but i think it has to be …

i purchased a dd-1 years ago and recently i purchased a dso nano oscilloscope, for half the price of the dd-1, and decided to do a little testing... I used them both on both of my amps and this is what i got on both amps. clearly the dd-1 shows that there is no "distortion" yet there is some soft clipping, which can be seen much easier from the picture i took closer. i did not have to turn the gain down much more to get a round wave. so, my conclusion is that if people want to set their gains with tones than they should save some money and just buy a dso nano.

Download this ... http://s5.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=1BC06DE8...BDB706B9A237E3E Correctly point out which tracks have NOT been attenuated and you win a cookie