General Audio

The saturn shook it self to peices after a short stint of 1 15" RESX with a 2500.1 wired at 4 ohm, had to replace it and am moving my gear over. Need some help from people who own ford explorers or SUV's in general. Alright, i just bought a 2001 ford explorer sport.... For the sub and port directions for some loud loud daily pounding which is the best place to face the subs and the port? I plan on keeping my rear seats, making a 7 cuft box ported to 34HZ for my re SX's. Also the alt is a 130amp factory unit, i have a pair of new batts for the trunk and am runnin a KX2500.1. Do i need a larger alt if im not always hard into the amp? Thanks in advance.

I've notice WMD 18s on sale $175ea. I just wanna know i does it perform as far as spl/sq goes? any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

just wondering what u guys think about this look.....

I've done it to a few of my loud boxes lol so I was just checking if anyone else used it and knocking on the box with head in it to verify you're an addict?

so i live in the south TEXAS, and i have never taken my audio out in the winter, but a friend of mine is from the north, and he was telling me everyone he knowns in the north takes there subs and amps out of there car and keeps them in tha house, until spring, yall ever heard of that?

Download this ... http://s5.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=1BC06DE8...BDB706B9A237E3E Correctly point out which tracks have NOT been attenuated and you win a cookie

Ok, I am taking suggestion on Rebuilding the Sound Qubed aka Audio Que 2010 Scion xB2. What you Guys think I should Put in it? I was leaning towards 10 SDC2.5 10's tuned in the dirt!

I plan to build a floating amp rack in trunk of my car and was wondering what the best material to use for the construction. I was thinking 3/4" boxed tubing but I'm not a structural engineer or anything, so i would appreciate the input on the matter.

I've got a pal who I'd like to tell is wrong, but need some technical advice to confirm my intuition. I have a Mach5 MAW-12(350wts) I've built a 1 cube(plus sub space taken) sealed box for in 3/4 MDF, as per spec's and am running off an MTX Amp with 460wts max. My good friend purchased 1 15" JBL apparently capable 650 watts(don't know the model, but a new purchase), and running off an older PG 500 wt amp. He has built a temp box he's happy with, about 1.8cubes sealed, but made of 5/8" plywood. Although his lows seem to be lower, I don't think his volume nor his sound could be if he built a new MDF Box, instead of the plywood box he currently has. I don' think he's ge…

I have been ripped off, sold short, and stolen from in this hobby plenty of times. I have never ripped anyone off, ripped equipment off of anybody, or lied about any piece of equipment I have sold. Karma came back around again today in my favor, as I received a BNIB Fi BL 15" from an ebay purchase. Cost me 250$ shipped. =] Keep it real when it comes to selling your stuff and it will come back around! It has for me! =]

i am new to building boxes and would like to know, about how accurate is the re box tool? I made a pretty nice little box tuned to 35 HZ and have no clue how accurate this tool is, so it would be good to know beforehand. thanks

I dont appreciate having my email spammed by you guys 20 times in one day on black friday specials... this is outrageous

Just was wondering what would I need to set up my system to never drop below 14.1 or the lowest I want it to drop would be 13.1

Currently I have 2 Fi Q12s fully loaded built with high quality for sealed enclosures. I will be getting 07+ Silverado crew cab. What would have the most "SQL"/SPL? "SQL" comes before SPL. I have thought about 4 sundown sa-8s. Any other suggestions? Still not sure if I will be able to fit the Q12s in the truck. Spending no more than $1000 on speakers. Will be keeping my Brutus brz2400 to push out 2400 watts at 1 ohm

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i use this box as well

Hey guys, I have a question about box construction. I've been building boxes for a while. I always use MDF, but will use Baltic Birch one of these days. I have always heard that glue is stronger than screws as long as it is a nice tight joint and glued properly. I have always used glue and screws for strength but have seen a lot of guys use glue and pin nails. I have only built one box using glue only but it was for a single 8" driver. Any guys have experience doing this method? I don't want to waste extra time pre-drilling and using screws if I don't have to, not looking for short cuts, just trying to save some time. I have a box that I am going to reuse but need to beef…

I need help figuring out why there isn't any sound coming from my subs. I found out that there is a rubber piece missing on the inside of the terminals on my amp. Could this be why im not getting any sound and if so what should I do?

Well, I picked one of the $100 ones up for a cheap alternative for some subbass. First impressions: The build quality is extraodrinary. Everything is aligned perfectly. There is not a hint of excessive glue used which is commonplace on a lot of subs today available from certain buildhouses. The finish on the driver is superb. The basket seems to be a little weak for the motor structure, but hey, it was a lot of "leftover parts" assembled very well into a quite impressive looking driver. IT came with a four-piece, self-adhesive foam surround for rear sealing, with a very attractive front rubber piece that just seems to flow into, or out from the surround. I wish ot…

Hey guys whats up I am looking for suggestions.. I am very open to Ideas. I have an 18" Q in a 7.1cu. ft. enclosure running @2 ohms on 2000W rated...bout 3/5gain... 3x 4" Aero's, all 14" long. Its in a 99Nissan Maxima I am pretty happy with its performance, but I am looking for just a little wiggle room, and right now when im playin the Q at max volume, is where I want my wiggle room, so......I don't know if I should try tuning a little higher to get a little more output, or if im choking my trunk.... I was thinking of a few other ideas... trade the Q and get A. and HDC318( if they makeone) B. An 18" BTL C. 18" RE MT D. 2x 15" Q's (if i have enough room to port them) …

I installed my kenwood kdc x794 in my 05 yukon with factory bose system so I had to use the metra gmos 04 adapter to keep chimes and factory amp untill I get money go upgrade all components, also I installed the metra aswc and now when the radio is on but turned all the way down I get some alternator whine out of only one speaker and I never had the whine before the gmos04.... I've took it apart twice and re wired and still can't get rid of it.......help please

I was wondering do yall use the loud button on the head unit??? also what is it for?? i know when i push the button the speaker thump harder and the little speaker sound more louder.

OK, now this is just a give your opinion on this BS. A friend of mine has 4 JL w1v2 12's and a JL 500/1 ported. exact specs on the enclsure i have no idea. He i was talking to him yesterday and he said he drove up to the local audio shop which sapposeably has MECA certified mics. I dont know if this is Term Lab or not. i am assumeing so since that is the organization Alma gates comeats (or compeated) with. anyway, he told me he did a 149.2@ 55Hz. beleiveable but not BSable Today he calls me saying he went up there agian and did a bunch of runs. he averaged at 151.3...still beleiveable depending on the box. but then he goes on to tell me on a bass track song he did a 157.1…

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Guys, Need some help/advice. Here's the story... When I play this specific song my bass cuts-off. There's no more sound coming from my sub. I have 1000's of songs and this title is the ONLY one that cuts it off ALL the time. It's psybient (Chillout) music My amp is an Orion D1200 Sub is an SSA ICON 12" D2 connected in series. I tried in series (4 ohms) and parallel (1 ohm) and it still cuts-off!! My simple question is WHY? I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge on the matter. Here's the title if you need it: (It's got major bass) http://www.sendspace.com/file/uxy0yn Artist/song title: Cell/A Figliulina