General Audio

The subs... OR... The amp... The box is going to be 2.5 @ 33Hz, and it's goin to be in a '98 sunfire<---- Please say which one u would pick, and why..the pioneer is $40+shipping, and the clarion is either going to be a 10, or 12, but they're both $28-29 + shipping...the profile amp is 59+ shipping...and does anyone know anything about the clarion sub?i couldn't find the rms, all i could find is the max rating...TIA.

Some of this was leftover in a subwoofer enclosure that came as part of my interior swap. 4 pairs of wire probably about 18 gauge braided, no outer jacket. i was wondering if it is something they did by hand at the shop or if i can buy a roll?

Price? Availability? Pros and cons?

Alright, i have been looking around few days, and i get a lot of different answers about capacitor. Some people say that they are for ricers who like LEDs, others say that you need it to supply power. and third group says that it will mess your system up. So whats the deal do you need it or now and why ? Why do they make them at all then. I think that you don't really need one because amplifiers already have necessary capacitors.

what does everyone think about this career choice? if anyone is in the mobile audio profession, what do you think of your choice? and is there money to be made?

I am going to get a 15" fi btl in my civic, being powered by 2500 watts, and i want to know ways to not let any sound come out of the car. Meaning, even with windows down, i dont want to be heard cuz i dont want to get shit jacked/annoy people. Is there a way to do this, or is it just going to be loud anyways, and i would just need to turn it down at times?

Ok so I bought 2 IDW 15's after reading the spec sheet and it saying I needed 1.5-2cu ft sealed... After asking about it I hear IB and giant boxes are what it needs from squeak over on CA.com.. After searching the net it seams most people did IB installs with the IDWs... so does anyone here have experience with non-IB installs on IDW's... The only two thought I have are seal off the entire cargo area with plexiglass (ummm I'd rather sell the IDW's) or make a box the size of the entire cargo area level up to the seat backs... I could swing this, I'll measure it tonight to see how much space this would give each IDW...

im about to do my very first system and i wanted to know if any one would even want to see it. all it is is a alpine type r 10 with a alpine mrp-m500 amp in a ported box. in the front is a kenwood HU and alpine sps-600 speakers. idk if thats a good build log but if anyone wants to see the build log let me know. im getting my amp in a few weeks so that is when i will be installing everything.

Is there any way to wire (1)dual 1ohm sub to 2 ohms? My buddies selling his RF R500.1 and its only stable at 2 ohms.

Does the direction the port is facing matter very much? What would the best direction be in this setup? 12" RL-p downfiring in an extended cab nissan frontier. The box will be ~2cubes tuned to ~30Hz. Would it be better to fire out the side towards passenger side, out the top, or forward toward drivers seat. If anyone has experience with this truck specifically that would be great, but just ideas would work.

Well, i've been working on getting the demo atleast to useable condition. I got everything in now in a setup that i'll probably stay with and now just need to tidy things up. So here's my setup HU- Eclipse 8454, awesome HU but I think i need to send mine in as the display keeps on freezing up but o well its awesome Doors- CDT Eurosport ES-600 with the optional braxial mounting for the drt-26 tweeter Kicks-CDT High Definition HD-5's Subwoofer-Stereo Integrity Mag 15 in a sealed 2.45cu ft box Amps- -Monitor 1 MK2.70 running to the ES-600 playing 80-400hz -Monitor 1 MK2.70 running to the HD-5 and drt-26 using the satnet 480 crossover -Concept CC-D1200 running the SI Mag 1…

which are u running?

The Termlab is the official meter for most comps around the country but it costs close to 700 and most individuals sigh away from the price. Hyperdynamics meter through ebay costs less than 100 but retails for around 350. They claim their meter is stricter than the Termlab, slightly (0.1-2.0db lower than Termlab between Db ranges of 120-170). Db ranges 171-180 have been noted to post upwards of almost 9 Db lower than Termlab. This meter also goes up to 230Db accurate whereas the Termlab goes to 180 accurate. Hyperdynamics is used to test explosions, bombs, shotgun blast, etc... The reading methods are very different as well. Termlab- Just hookup to laptop and watch your s…

I had a discussion with a friend about the most popular voice coil configs in a raw driver. What configurations do you look for when looking for a driver? Based on your current setup please.

I have a JL 13W6v2 motor that Ive had laying around now for a while. Am looking to buy a 2.7" voice coil to rebuild it without spending a arm and a leg for it with JL. I can find other soft parts that would work but finding a coil is a bitch. Can anyone help me out here in any way? I dont wanna get rid of it, I think its a decent motor other than the gap size. Thanks

i know there are those terminals you can buy from parts express that are pretty nice, but after shipping its like 20 bucks to my area. couldn't i just get some bolts at a general hardware store? i know this question has been asked, but every post i see there is not much about if its ok to do and what material bolts should i look into. all i need are bolts for my wiring and my box should be done!! lemme know what you guys think! thanks!

Low-end authority. Once you hear the true low end of audio tracks, video games and movies, it's not easy to go back to standard front speakers. Removed.

I have been trying to figure out a good 32hz box for two jl audio 12w6v2 but so far no one has been able to help me without saying i can build on for you. I already have all the wood and other stuff so i would like to make it myself. If anyone can help me please let me know

I saw this video from D'Amore and was wondering what everyone thought about it?

Was thinking of wiring up the big 3 in my 04 grand prix. Don't have a high output alt, should the hookup only be done if the alt is aftermarket quality? What other determinations should sway me to do or not do this wiring?

im looking for something you can buy at walmart or something like that for my trunk, to help stop the rattle and help the sound out a little? any suggestions

BEWARE WHEN BUYING FROM ONLINECARSTEREO.COM. THEY REMOVE SERIAL NUMBERS FROM JL AUDIO, ALPINE, INFINITY, FOSGATE, KENWOOD, KICKER, PIONEER, CLARION JBL AND FEW MORE. BY DOING THAT YOU DONT HAVE WARRANTY. THEY CLAIM YOU CAN SEND IT BACK BUT ALL THEY DO IS HOLD ON TO IT FOR A FEW WEEKS AND THEY SEND YOU THE SAME DEFECTIVE. ALSO, THEY DONT HAVE ANYTHING IN STOCK MOST OF THE TIME SO THEY CHARGE YOUR CARD AND ISSUE YOU A FAKE TRACKING # TO MAKE YOU BELIEVE THAT IT SHIPPED BUT IN ALL ACTUALITY THEY ARE USING YOUR MONEY FOR A FEW DAYS IF NOT WEEKS AND THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THEY SAY "ITEM OUT OF STOCK". WE NEED TO CREATE AWARENESS AND PASS THIS MESSAGE ALL OVER TO MAKE THEM PAY FO…

Now, I realized that an electrical outlet is a wicked idea as a speaker connect. It's made with heavy gauge copper, it accepts heavy guage wire, to be screwed down and it makes for a very easy connect, disconnect. I know that almost nobody would understand the concept of this, which is normal. I would like to hear reasons, people would not use this method of connecting speaker wire. I'm looking for facts, to show why an electrical outlet, is not as good as a regular speaker plate.

i need some ideas for mouthing my amp.. i have a t30000bd and i kind wanna make it so everything is clean and you cant see my amp.. any ideas maybe