General Audio

Hey guys, I just wanted your opinions on what enclosure would be better in terms of "loudness". That may be defined differently for some of you, but I'm looking for a low boomier type of bass. I'm not sure what setup I have planned for will be loudest though. Here's what I got so far: Setup 1: 1 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft ported enclosure @ 32 hz, running 900w @ 2 Ohms. OR Setup 2: 2 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft sealed enclosure, both wired down to run 600w each @ 1 ohm. The reason I don't do both speakers in a ported enclosure is because I don't have 4-5 cubes of space to offer in my car trunk. Gotta put the groceries somewhere, you know? Anyways, I'd love to hear some thoughts …

ok well i hooked up my new rw and blew my amp after 2 days and i put a new amp on it and it has ground noise and i tryed another amp it still had ground noise i redid my ground new washer and such and looked at my power and remote wire and i still have the ground noise can you help me thank you

Well I have two tc sound ultra lms 18" and want to ship from the states NC to Kuwait. What should I do and or who should I use to ship them if I have to? Should I separate them and ship them that way or take them back with me in two separated suit cases. I like option two my self, but what do you guys think. I leave on friday so please help me out. Thanks for your time friends

I'm building an enclosure for 4 12in Solo Barics, 2007 models. The question I have is he's already got the gear and he bought one of the really long, thin Memphis 4000 watt mono amplifiers. Does anyone have any experience with these? I personally think it's overpriced. I'm hoping it turns out to be a decent amp but I want to make sure the setup goes well for him.

Well because i crashed my BMW im planning to get VW Golf II Here is picture of gold II Im planning to take out back seats and wall 4x12" subs, how does that sound ? Subs would be SPL dynamics V300D2. And run them around 3-4kw RMS. But there is second option also 2x15" subs, what do you think, what would be nicer ? 2x15 or 4x12 ? i prefer 4x12. Hit me up with ideas

Im wanting to purchase new subs for my explorer once i get my tax return. i previously had 2 15" kicker L7s in a ported box power by a memphis mojo 2400 amp. id like to stick around paying a 1000.00 for subs/amp/head unit. maybe a little more. id still like to get 2 15's. i had the last sytem 4 years ago so ive been out of the loops on good sub/amp combos. could i get some recommendations please. im wanting to be very loud, not to worried about SQ either.

I was wondering wht would be a good amp to run 4 15" btl subs on to get the best performance .....let me kno

I have a 2014 Ford F150 with sync and the 4.2 screen of which there are no options for aftermarket stuff anyways. I cant find a unit that will plug into the factory harness. I could do this and buy a headunit but I dont want too http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5830B-2013-Up-Factory-4-2-Inch/dp/B00FDW51C2 I was going to buy this untill I saw that is was only good untill 2012. And upon further reading there is nothing for the 2013 and 2014s http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=548&Cate.. So now I am not sure what to do to get my pre amps. I found this but this is for a new stereo, not pre amps.... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120AXAFD…

what would it take to have surround sound in a vehicle and about how much will it cost to do so

Hi guys The last forum I was a member on misguided me terribly Please help me with some questions I have thanks! 1. can i use 2 ground wires for lower resistance? 2. are 5/7 eq band head units pointless for a bass head since the eq should be at 0 anyways? 3. why is a 4v headunit better than 2v? 4. do you guys with multiple alternators have custom belts made? 5. what specifically is in an expensive amp that a cheaper brand does not have? 6. how can these guys patent a basket design? is it their reward for finding the most effecient design first? 7. why don't people use the 21" incriminator death penalty more often in builds? 8. what is the difference betwee…

Got some of these in.. and I was pretty impressed. I was so impressed I put it up to the ultimate sound deadner stress test.... a proper pint. The foil is crazy stiff. They come in 6" x 10" pieces.

Trying to get some ideas on what could have caused this . . Installed 2 ppi 900.4s and a taramp 10kw in a vehicle yesterday and tested everything and every this dead quiet. Not a bit of any noise. Later last night we installed a ampere 9k in the vehicle and now im getting sounds through the mids and highs . . Only thing that was done was taking out the taramp, putting in the ampere and installing a new volt meter . . Just trying to get some ideas befor I go into the shop today on What could have cause this when just changing the sub amp

I was wondering if there are any car audio magazines that are actually worth while? I picked up a pasmag today at Chapter to take a look at it.. it seemed alright? Just seems like more tits than audio..

I have two kicker cvx 12" 2006 model subs in a prefab ported box that i believe is 1.25 cubes per chamber (not sure if that is net or total) and i was just wondering what differences i will see, and how significant they are, if i switch to a either 4.5 or 5.5 cubes net custom box with a single port tuned to 35 hz.

Alright, i'm running a fosgate p450.4 bridged on a set of polk db comps, and a fosgate p1000-1bd (1230 at 1 ohm out of the box). My alty went out shortly before I put in the new system, so I upgrade to a 130 amp alternator, if i had more money at the time would have went larger. I also got an optima yellow-top. My lights are dimming like mad, and the sub is running a little warm, it's a 15" Q with bp power so i know i'm not over-driving it. i'm guessing lucky to get 900 watts to it after voltage loss. I know i need to upgrade and should add a second battery so here's the real question... It was my thought that optima yellow-top's were basically the best battery out t…

I just picked up a set of ascendant audio carbon 6.5 and tweeters. They did not come with crossovers. Im switching to a kenwood ddx371 or Pioneer avh4200. Well either one have the crossovers internally to run them or could passive crossovers work and if passive is a better option than the head units listed which crossovers would be best. Thank you for you time as all I have had in the past is coaxial speakers and since ordering two 12" DSS Ethos and a bc3500 I know the rest needs upgraded. Also my mtx te404 amp running high/mid and is extremely limited on setting the crossover. Thank you

Ok so I go to my favorite store locally and research what brands they have. I go in today with my list. I wanted 2 jl audio 10w1v3, hertz dieci 6.5" comps, Kenwood x998, all dash kits and that stuff. So they had a big sale this weekend and were out of 10w1v3's and dieci comps. So I end up buying two jl 10w0v3 and hertz energy esk 165.5. I got all my stuff with tax and head unit and dash kit and interface for my truck. $596 total Kenwood x998 $199 jl audio 10w0v3 $75x2 hertz energy esk 165.5 $150 stinger RCA cables Pac dodge interface $65

I have a Autotek Street Machine 1000.1RMS Mono Amp, and getting a 13.5'' W7. Will my amp be enough to power it? Alot of people have the 13.5'' w7 with a JL 1000/1 amp. I dont want to spend too much and upgrade to a better bigger amp. let me know thanks!

I have been waiting for quite some time to finally arrive at the point on what setup I will be using. I was considering 3 IA DP21's or 4 Jbl W15Gti. The amp I am using will be the stetsom 7KD. If I were to go with the DP's it would be in a 24-26cube enclosure at 28hz. The Jbl's would be in a 20cube enclosure at 28hz. I cannot find a DP t/s parameters to factor into the equation. I at least wanted to use the DP15 subwoofer to compare in WinIsd Pro. What do you guys think? If anyone has any t/s parameters on the DP's let me know.

I was curious to how it sounds and performs to get input with out having to do it and then tear it apart if its not what I want! So if you know anyone that has done it or you have heard it please share your input!

Hey all, it has been a while since I have been here. Lookin great. Any new toys anyones messin with? I built me a few new HT goodies, but the car is the same. Anyways, looks good. I'll be back more often. Life just got too complicated for a while there

I am going to want to sound deaden my trunk and was wondering what are some of the best sound deadeners.

Ok I was just wondering I have always heard of ways people have tried to make there cars louder by doing simple things not really involving more power or better subs. one I can think of off hand is to bolt your box down to your car because if the box vibrates it makes you lose bass. I know I have heard of more just cant think of them. If anyone has any of them they would like to list and if there is actually any support to back them up let me know just thinking of little things to do or add to my car for no good reason.

So I helped a buddy install an Alpine HU last night. It was the first time I worked on audio in a loooooong time. He wants to do an amp, front speaker combo. I am trying to convince him that deadening will be the best bang for his buck when doing the doors. He has about $650 for budget and I'm trying to figure out the best way to maximize the budget. Sound Deadening Based on what I see with SDS the 3M acoustic is the highest cost. I'd like to do 25% CLD, a layer of CCF and MLV, some CCF to control rattles and a little 3M acoustic (most expensive it seems) I can probably spend about $300 on deadening and leave $350 for Speakers/Amp Speakers I'm thinking that a passive …