General Audio

System specs: Fi BTL 15" Rockford t1500bd pioneer deh-p6000 ub Olds intrigue I cannot figure this out, when my friend turns his sub off at the head unit and plays music, his sub will play but not to the beats of the music, sounds like humming. I thought it was gain set too high but after adjustment there was no change. these exact same wires ran his BL and hifonics amp with no noise. any help would be greatly appreciated.

need some help on some 6x9's. i have alpine sps-600 in the front doors so i was going to match them with the alpine sps-609 but then i saw the spr-69c is not much more money. should i get sps-609 or the spr-69c with no amp?

So i really am stumped, i dont know how to start my install. I am putting a 15" Fi BTL in my 06 4Runner. For an amp im deciding between an audioque 2200D or an Sundown 1500D, which would be more suited for my car, its battery is 12.8v and the alt puts out a wopping 75. I assume il need to prob get better electrical, i will do the big 3 in 0ga but i dont know if itll help. So basicly i dont know where to start, should i buy subs first or amp or both, Or even wire, i assume i need 0ga any other kinds? So basicly to say the least i have no idea where i should start with this amazing install ha Thanks Sam

like the title says is there a big audible difference between 33hz and 34hz?

Which would be the better route to go to power a 15" fully loaded Fi BTL, 2 powerbass ASA 1500.1Dx amps (i already have one) or one Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D? does anyone know if powerbass actually puts out rated power? i heard that the brutus is under rated

So I'm going to be redoing my system in a few weeks or months and everything is practically RE audio and Us amps I already have the subs but im still looking for the amp and the speakers and there amp just about it. For the amp its between the SAE 1200 and the Us amps Md1d. For some speakers i dont really know but i ve been craving these in my doors and some tweeters so they can match the subs. But dont really no about the tweeters or the crossover because i dont think ill be running active i'm willing to spend 150 on the speakers as i can get hooked up from some RE dealers and pretty much everything. RE AUDIO® REx8 8" 175W RMS REx-Series SUBWOOFER RE8 D4 - eBay (item 160…

I just wanted to know if it was possible to make a sonotube enclosure for an 18" fi q. It will be powered by a aq 1200d. I just want to know if it's possible or will the tube flex too much

ok so i was just browsing some older topics today and realized that i have a wire kinda out of whack. im not sure if it is hurting or helping me or if it even has any effect at all. the blue wire (line) in the pic is the wire im referring to. its from my alternator negative to the negative on my second battery in the back. i have no idea what was going through my mind when i hooked it up like this but if im not mistaken, isnt it doing the same thing as if it were the negative on my battery up front to my battery in the back? also, one of my other questions was should i be running a power wire from the + on my alt to the + on my batteries in the back?? the way the pic is i…

I need 4 yards of the silver comfort suede that select product sells. SP actually calls it gray but looks silver to me. Part # CSUEDEGREY Now that SP is dealer only, I'm kind of screwed. I can't find what I need anywhere else so my headliner remains unfinished! Thanks!

Does any one here own a dd9515g that is 2 ohm? f so how do you wire it down to 1 ohm? I know you have to connect both positives and bot negatives. But this thing doesnt say which is positive and which is negative. And the way it connects is weird. Pictures of to wire it down to 1 ohm would be great if anyone has any. It will be powered by a Exile 2400.1 amp BTW. Does anyone know wether or not this amp is any good???

witf are u at, i need you!!!! send me a pm or post/reply here.

I have ideas about what I am going with but I want to see what others would do in my situation. I want to get as loud as possible in a setup with one battery under the hood. Here is the catch. The battery has already been decided. It is a XS Power D3400. Stock alt. Lets just look at the subwoofer setup. I am keeping my stock mids and highs for now. Also I would like to keep as much cargo space as I can in my small SUV. I will even throw this out there. For the sub box I have about 5 cubes of space I can work with. So basically I am looking for a sub/amp combination that would work with my electrical.

How can i turn my rear subs on and off? i ask this because at the moment i share a car until my mom gets a new one. Should i buy an equilizarer? How the hell do i build a box? Ive been trying to figure it out, because thats prob one of the things i should be doing because im trying to organize my money so i know what im buying. FYi, i am either making a box for a havoc or a btl, dunno yet, most likely a btl just for cost reasons. hope you can help

I Have everything connected to where its suppose to be connected RCA Outputs from HU to imputs on amp Pos battery to Pos amp Neg Baterry to Neg amp etc etc When i hooked everything up and set the HU to a song all i get is a FULL Burp on my subs. Like the amp is sending full 3000 Watts to it :/ I dont know why and its driving me crazzyyy what do you think is the problem?

So i ended up picking a soundstream XXX up from my buddy mario on team soundstream, he had it in his wall and was on his way to a buddys b4 they were done and it wasnt secured all the way so the box flew fwd and damaged one of the subs, but it was just the cone...no the voicecoil, spider or tinsel leads, those are all still hooked up and the sub works ha but im not sure if i have to do a full recone or not, i heard id be fine getting a new surrond and dustcap since i am only gunna be givig it about 3-3.3krms so no where near its power limits, but i was wondering if there is a easy way to get the remaing cone of around the voicecoil, this is going to be the first sub i hav…

Of course i know the sound differences in a ported or sealed box, my question is a bit more detailed than that. I'm about to buy a Fi Q 12 and was stuck btwn building a tuned vented/ported box, or sealed. I listen to rock-metal-hardcore-etc. and rap. I know a ported will be perfect for rap but will it hit all the notes nicely for rock songs with quick bass? I've heard that a properly tuned box will hit fine but will it be as accurate as a nice sized sealed box? Thanks alot, much appreciated

im about to build a box since the pre fab one i bought sucks. the spec sheet that came with the sub says the enclosure's external dimensions are 12.5 x 14.5 x 17.25 so would it be 14.5 length 17.25 depth and 12.5 tall? the vent area says 11 in^2(11 x 1) does that mean its 11in tall and 1in wide? the port length says 22 so does that mean that the port would look like a L with a 1 inch space from the wall?

ill be fg'ing some a pillar pods as well as sealing large (roughly 2' by 1.5') holes the 2 fronts doors. the A pillar pods are for one 3" fullrange driver (on each side). im looking for a good site or store to buy the amount of products i will need to complete these projects? later ill be posting question on how to do the fiberglass since this will be my first time.. i have a rough idea of how to do it but im sure ill run into problems... so im just just looking for some rough figures on how much shit i need to buy to get this done, as well as, a cheap retailer. thanks

was this box worth the money i have not used it yet. Could someone tell me what its tuned to and if would be good for a type r 10. 10" PORTED AUDIO SUBWOOFER SUB SPEAKER ENCLOSURE BOX - eBay (item 280515098347 end time Jun-30-10 19:16:01 PDT)

So I just installed a LOC on my front channels and ran the RCA cable to the rear..Tried to take off the passenger door panel based off what I found on google. Didn't work out so well (Said screws were somewhere they werent, still no idea what I need to unscrew to lift the panel off..) Any tips? Vehicle is a 2006 tahoe.

so in my blazer my current setup right now is 4 p3 fosgate 12s on one sundown 3500. my box is a little under 8 cuft tuned to 37ish hz. my score was a 147.2 and it peaked at 46hz. I'm fairly pleased with what it did considering when we clamped the amp for my second run, I did the same score but the amp was only doing 1863 watts!? I'm pretty sure that my alt might have something wrong with it that's why the power wasn't there. well what do you guys thiink? is it a respectable score?

So i just got my ascendant audio havocs. I went with 2 12 inch dvvc at 2 ohms each. I thought i would be able to run a amp that makes power at 2 ohms but i dont think i can im lost on what to look for. Im not really looking for what specific brand (although that would be nice) i just dont want it to turn into a argument of whose better, but more of what things in an amp i should be looking for to properly run this amp. Such as 1 ohm stable, 2 ohm stable, etc. because im lost. Im running a alpine cda-117 headunit if that matters.

Why does that happen? Is it normal? Ford Expedition 1 12" Pioneer sub Ported box

So I don't live in a bad neighborhood, but I just bought an amp that cost me over $1K, and I plan on spending a lot on speakers and subs, but I am just going to bolt those down. As for the amp, what would be the best way of locking it down? I thought about a bullet proof glass case(with holes for venting), but ventilation would still suck, I have thought about just putting 2 long steel bars across it and bolting them down on each side of the amp, but I am undecided. I thought it would not hurt to come here and see what everyone else has done to protect their equipment.

Hey boys - I'm planning out a new system for my 03 F-150 Harley Davidson. The only 2 things set in stone are the JL Stealthbox - 12w3v3-4 which should take about 400watts rms. And the H/U (for now) is a Alpine 9886. I have the H/U but need to buy the JL - anybody have a good place to buy JL at less than retail? I'd like to run DLS UP6i speakers up front with a Sundown 125.2. They recommend 150watts RMS so I don't know if the Sundown will be sufficient for it. Thoughts? Do I need a seperate amp for the tweeters? For the sub I need something solid 400watts rms. Maybe the 125.2 bridged? What would be good rear fill? Only experienced info on this question please!