General Audio

Can anybody explain to me what each of these does and how can it benefit the sound I'll be reproducing in my system. The deck I will be using will be the Alpine CDA-9887 Also do i have to or need to measure anything when I do time alignment I wanna be able to do this right the first time and for the last time in my vehicle. Any suggestions welcomed

ill be fg'ing some a pillar pods as well as sealing large (roughly 2' by 1.5') holes the 2 fronts doors. the A pillar pods are for one 3" fullrange driver (on each side). im looking for a good site or store to buy the amount of products i will need to complete these projects? later ill be posting question on how to do the fiberglass since this will be my first time.. i have a rough idea of how to do it but im sure ill run into problems... so im just just looking for some rough figures on how much shit i need to buy to get this done, as well as, a cheap retailer. thanks

Of course i know the sound differences in a ported or sealed box, my question is a bit more detailed than that. I'm about to buy a Fi Q 12 and was stuck btwn building a tuned vented/ported box, or sealed. I listen to rock-metal-hardcore-etc. and rap. I know a ported will be perfect for rap but will it hit all the notes nicely for rock songs with quick bass? I've heard that a properly tuned box will hit fine but will it be as accurate as a nice sized sealed box? Thanks alot, much appreciated

so in my blazer my current setup right now is 4 p3 fosgate 12s on one sundown 3500. my box is a little under 8 cuft tuned to 37ish hz. my score was a 147.2 and it peaked at 46hz. I'm fairly pleased with what it did considering when we clamped the amp for my second run, I did the same score but the amp was only doing 1863 watts!? I'm pretty sure that my alt might have something wrong with it that's why the power wasn't there. well what do you guys thiink? is it a respectable score?

So I just installed a LOC on my front channels and ran the RCA cable to the rear..Tried to take off the passenger door panel based off what I found on google. Didn't work out so well (Said screws were somewhere they werent, still no idea what I need to unscrew to lift the panel off..) Any tips? Vehicle is a 2006 tahoe.

One 15" AA SMD of a Stetsom 7k2e. 4^3 tuned ~31 hz w/ 29 sq in of port in a '09 Yaris Sedan. DC Power 320amp alt, big three, all 1/0 wiring, stock battery. I just metered tonightat a local shop and put up a 144.4 w/ peak at ~ 41 hz. My question is "How much would I benefit from more port area? I plan on going from 29 in to 72.5 in thanks

So I don't live in a bad neighborhood, but I just bought an amp that cost me over $1K, and I plan on spending a lot on speakers and subs, but I am just going to bolt those down. As for the amp, what would be the best way of locking it down? I thought about a bullet proof glass case(with holes for venting), but ventilation would still suck, I have thought about just putting 2 long steel bars across it and bolting them down on each side of the amp, but I am undecided. I thought it would not hurt to come here and see what everyone else has done to protect their equipment.

Hey boys - I'm planning out a new system for my 03 F-150 Harley Davidson. The only 2 things set in stone are the JL Stealthbox - 12w3v3-4 which should take about 400watts rms. And the H/U (for now) is a Alpine 9886. I have the H/U but need to buy the JL - anybody have a good place to buy JL at less than retail? I'd like to run DLS UP6i speakers up front with a Sundown 125.2. They recommend 150watts RMS so I don't know if the Sundown will be sufficient for it. Thoughts? Do I need a seperate amp for the tweeters? For the sub I need something solid 400watts rms. Maybe the 125.2 bridged? What would be good rear fill? Only experienced info on this question please!

Why does that happen? Is it normal? Ford Expedition 1 12" Pioneer sub Ported box

anyone ever heard of them? they look to be pretty beastly IndexFlash

witf are u at, i need you!!!! send me a pm or post/reply here.

Ihave six 15s and the subs will be facing up, should I do port up or the port facing back this is going in a Denali

im about to do my very first system and i wanted to know if any one would even want to see it. all it is is a alpine type r 10 with a alpine mrp-m500 amp in a ported box. in the front is a kenwood HU and alpine sps-600 speakers. idk if thats a good build log but if anyone wants to see the build log let me know. im getting my amp in a few weeks so that is when i will be installing everything.

I am tryin to build a blow through for my truck. I was wondering that if i build a simple ported box and then cut the hole for the subs and port to come through do i add that in to port calculator ? I thiking seriously about nightshade 18s I was thinking 5 cubes per sub tuned to 35 htz.. Any advice on the best way to go about the blow through

So i just got my ascendant audio havocs. I went with 2 12 inch dvvc at 2 ohms each. I thought i would be able to run a amp that makes power at 2 ohms but i dont think i can im lost on what to look for. Im not really looking for what specific brand (although that would be nice) i just dont want it to turn into a argument of whose better, but more of what things in an amp i should be looking for to properly run this amp. Such as 1 ohm stable, 2 ohm stable, etc. because im lost. Im running a alpine cda-117 headunit if that matters.

Well I am getting my first vehicle soon, and am building my first sound system in it. People who know me know when I do things, I go big and get the best available to me at the time. So I just bought a Team Cactus Sounds 7KW Amplifier. Now what should I hook it up to? Assume that I am doing the build in the bed of a pick up truck with either a 6.5 or 8 foot bed. What I am really wondering is should I go with many small(10-12") subs, a couple large(18") subs, or a single large(18"), a single medium(15"), and a couple small(10-12") subs? I realize with the last option, I would need quite a few amps, but lets assume that it isn't an issue. Right now I am thinking about wiri…

34 hz or so was fine in my trunk.... but as soon as i put the same crap in my SUV... NONE of the same song play as well... and ALL of the song that sounded like shit sound great now... in an SUV... so im thinking.. should i be tuned lower for an SUV?? 28hz or so?

I was going to rebuild the mazda, but have decided i should do something with my burban that just is sitting in my backyard...I'm up for any ideas you all think.. Like i have stated in my other post i have 6 type r 12's collecting dust and i also have 2 mtx 7801d amps also not doing anything.... Here are some pics of the beast..

Hey. Its me again, I FINALLY bought the 2 12" JL W3v1 Model Subs! There 300wrms Apiece and I have a 2004 Chevy Aveo Sedan Like This... http://files.conceptcarz.com/img/Chevrolet/2004-chevy_Aveo_manu-034-1280.jpg And Im thinking about having my friends friend build me a Inverted Wedge Box. What would be louder in that car with those subs? A Inverted Wedge Box?? Or A Ported Box?? Heres info on the Inverted Wedge INVERTED WEDGE DESIGN

I'm tryin to decide on what kinda battery to get for a 3,000 watt 2 jbl gto 14001's and a JBL 4 Channel

Ok so for the last day or two I've been at a total loss as to what's causing problems with my system. I've had it running for a few months now on this brand new SAE-1200Dv2 without a single hiccup until last night. So, this is how it started... I was on my way to my friends house when my subs cut out a couple times. Thought to myself, no biggie, must be a loose connection somewhere. I checked my ground and it was fine. I took a DMM to the subs which presented a 1ohm load, so that checked out. I took the DMM and measured voltage at the battery and amp, which read 14v+. The amp is also getting power as it did not go into protect or turn off. I also took the amp off the swit…

ok so in my blazer i had a rockford t1500 and four punch p3 12's in a correctly built ported box. i just got my new sundown 3500 and hooked it up and it is no where near as loud as my old t1500 was. i have ajusted the eq settings on the amp and everything properly and i have to turn my headunit ALL the way up with all the bass options all the way up for it to even be kinda loud. i know for a fact i have missed something here cause this amp should be raping my p3's. i have extra batterys in the back, the big 3, all 0 awg wire, my subs are wired down to 1 ohm right, H/O alt....etc. should i bridge the speaker terminals, like one positive channel and one negative? i need s…

Should I run my ground from the front batt. to the rear one or just ground it to the frame?

Post up any power wheels photos. plz Thx

Please don't flame me, I know this is all extreme low quality to you veterans, but I just want a cheap first system. Here is what I am thinking of using- Phoenix Gold V752 (pg-v752) - 2-Channel Car Amplifier Power Amp - Sonic Electronix - A phoenix gold 250 watt rms @ 4 ohms bridged amp, CEA-2006 Compliant (there is probably a better option for under 100) $75 Dayton DCS450-4 18" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm | subwoofer dcs450-4 18" subwoofer dayton dayton classic dayton audio dayton loudspeaker | Parts-Express.com - A Dayton classic 18, 300 watt rms, 4 ohm, 8mm of xmax , $115 Power Acoustik AKIT-4G 4 Gauge Amplifier/Amp Installation Kit - 4 guage power wire amp kit, with 16 g…