General Audio

Hi guys, I bought a PAC Audio adapter to "add an amp" to my factory stereo. The adapter runs around $100 from the PAC site, so I did a little price checkin' around the net. I found a great deal on ebay for $75. shipped from a car dealership out of New York. So I ordered. Everything arrived great, got it installed, and started tweeking the amp. Everything worked great for 2 weeks, when all of a sudden the PAC part burned up. I contacted PAC and they told me they can't help me because I bought it from a NON-AUTHORIZED DEALER. What a funkin' joke I think PAC stands for Piece-O-Chit. So anyway, I think I'll keep my factory set-up and buy an older vehicle so I dont have to mes…

Where can i buy some of that spray that i see guys using instead of carpet? Am needing black (gloss) and Charcoal gray. Thanks in advance for the input.

Ok, today was the first time ina long while that I have built a box away from my old shop. These are a few things I learned / remembered while building a box today. 1. Measure twice, cut once (this goes for the cuts on the woodas well as the overall size of the enclosure). I made a few bad cuts and ended up building one box too large. Grrr. If you are going to cut it wrong, be sure do it larger than what is needed. 2. A pneumatic or electric brad nailer is the way to go! I was doing it the old fashioned way with a hammer and finishing nails. There was some frustration with bent / broken nails as well as the lack of speed. 3. A jigsaw may cut wood, but it is a far cry fro…

right now i have two 12" eclipse sw7200 subs, i had a rockford p600.2 pushing them and i kno thats nowhere near the output they handle but i got them both in a deal... i sold the amp and i am wondering if i should sell the subs as well to get something different... ive been looking into the ssa icons and the fi q's... im not looking for ridiculous bass... however i want something that can get respectably loud and have excellent sq, something that can hit the lows and sound good doing it.. i was looking at these two brands because from what i hear on this forum they work well on both ends of the spectrum (so to say) they are gonna be powered by a aq1200 amp and also its go…

I have my amp mounted to the back of my box. It's mounted so that the bottom of my amp is screwed to the back of the box. Is this bad? I was told by a guy yesterday that it can cause internal issues with the amp. Any input?

saw this over on DIYMA and thought we could start one here. this is mine starting 3 years ago: 2004: 1. Bought Sony 12" tornado cone + Sony amp + prefab bandpass box. stupid stupid me. never installed 2. Panasonic HU + Infinity Kappa Speakers 3.5 up front, 4" in rear 2. Added Infinity Kappa Perfect DVQ 12" in a sealed 1.44 box with Profile CA600M. slammed hard 3. replaced Infinity With IA LI 12" 3.0 tuned to 28hz 2005: 4. Replaced Profile With Viper 1200D + eD 9.2 5. Replaced Panasonic with Kenwood excelon kdc x789 6. Took out the infinities and added Rainbow SLC 6.5" comps 7. Replaced Viper and eD with usamps MD41 and MD22 8. Replaced IA with Soundsplinter RL-p in 2 cub…

give me some ideas, its not going to be expensive at all, just like a 5 channel and speakers and a 8'er, just curious as to what you guys would want in there

is $20 a fair price for an enclosure design?

see what answers people come up with OK now i have to pull for 2 amps aka 12 runs what batters do you pull from i have been given 12 different answers and also is this the best way to wire using the chassis

Hi, anyone who experienced these symptoms? * speakers are 6.5in. woofer and 1 inch tweeter, sometimes the left woofer stops playing while the tweeter is good. They're properly wired in their crossover. The woofer comes back whenever I adjust the volume at high level. * At high volume level, it sounds like you're playing the wire connection of the woofer, it's on..and it's off.. and on. * There are instances that the right woofer has the same problems too. * And sometimes the tweeter on the left channel stops too I already checked every connection and they're properly terminated. What could be the problem here? separates are RE XXX6.5c amp is Sundown SAX100.2 Help

I was wondering which setup you guys and gals think would be the loudest and/or sounded the best: Setup 1 (my current setup): 2 Kicker square L7

I have a 99 toyota camry with 2 fi q 12s on a saz 3500v2 I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with camry. I have my subs & port firing to the rear & it is not bad but I was wondering if anyone has had the subs firing forward & port to the side & how it did vs. sub & port to rear. I am having a slot port built right now just wondering if anyone had gain or improvement doing this in a gen 4 camry. I am just looking for a suggestions I know ultimately I am going to have to just experiment because of all the uncontrollable variables. Here is my question do you think I should go for it & try subs forward port to passenger side or stick with…

My Brutus has a ground plane problem, and I can't fix it with the equipment I have (read:none). Where do you guys recommend? I am very picky about who works on my equipment, and am leary of the shops around here.

I already have an Optima Red Top and alternator was replaced last year. Will the Big 3 upgrade help my problem? System is SAX100.4 and JBL 1200.1 0 gauge for power and ground.

Amp, wiring, subs, battery.... Their all here When i do start to do the build i will make a new topic in the build logs and go through the whole thing step by step. Until then --> PICS Refurb KX2500.1 (Birthsheet of 2830) Closeup of my Chameleon paint job on the end caps. My pair of RE SX 15's and my old sub amp AKA new front channel amp and CD components (going active after install complete) The Oddysey 1500 1/0 25 ft stinger, 2X 1/0 5ft Rockford Fosgate power/ground wire Snagged from the fleamarket for 50 bucks (radioactive wanted 300) Old Boston GS1500 subs (still sound absolutely amazing) Old VS New 2 year old install on my 550HP charged 88 grand marquis (s…

So i went to a local car audio shop probably less than a mile from my house and i finally got to hear a loud car. The guy that owns the shops name is Michael Jones. He also holds a bunch of worlds SPL records and titles. His stats Idk, i thought it was pretty cool that he lives right here in my town (around 100,000 people or less) He also says he has a B&K sound and vibrations sound level meter. Supposedly one of the best ones out there and he said hes 1 of 3 people in united states that has one. Also has a termlab so i will be metering my truck soon =) Edit: Oh yeah the loud car i heard was a nissan pathfinder with 3 15" DD 3500s i believe with 2 strapped DD m1's. I…

so, was at the junk yard today getting some parts for the Saturn (need a new trunk latch) today, when I spotted this odd looking by-nine on the rear deck of a caprice (old 80s box chevy) right? so after I got my part and my bolts needed, I walked over to the caprice and took a peak in the trunk, found about 15 feet of 8AWG wire (perfect length for the application I need it for, no, im not using it as power wire) in the trunk, and then I looked at this yellow by-nine that I saw, the magnet was BIG, had to be atleast an 80oz magnet, mags as big as a CD in diameter, couldnt find the second one, so i grabbed it and continued to look for other parts. later on today when I got …

So what happens if you pump a 12 CVR in a Bandpass box with a 800watt ppi pcx amp? what are the concequenses?

I keep telling a buddy of mine to go with Fi instead of a Circuit City MTX Jack Hammer Box with 2 12" subs. Please give me some advice or videos for me to give him. Fi BL 15" vs 2 12" Jackhammer series MTX subs. I am giving him my Hifonics Bx1606d amp so he has power and he has room for both. Any advice would be great. If you have a 15" Fi BL vid please show it off. Thanks.

So I've called 6 shops in my area and none of them have a term lab or any sort of meter. I don't feel like shelling out $700+ for a term lab. Am I basically SOL?

So let's say I want a Zcon and have 2500-3000 watts for it, and it is going in a car with a 130 alternator. What all electrically is likely needing to be upgraded (and maybe the question is not that simple?)? I think you'll need at least 0 gauge power wire, solid grounding, and probably the big 3...sound good so far? But then what is the next step people take? Bigger battery? An extra battery? Bigger alternator? Alternator and battery? So 2500 watts or so probably isn't high power to some lol, but a noob wants to know what all you get into when you start trying to feed beasts like Zcons significant power.

I have a numbnuts salesman, that seems to believe that Blaupunkt is, well, the tits. What do you guys think of Blaupunkt, what brand are comparable and why. Just curious

looking to piece together a budget system for my brother. i need help selecting are the front components, maybe rear fill (might be left stock for now). small sub(s) pair of 8 (thinking sa8's or e8 v2's) and just the amp for the front (im thinking a 2 channel amp and run rear fill off hu). will also need a cheap hu with 2 sets of outputs(and ability to control subwoofer output level from hu) he wants speakers all around, fine by me but i plan to put something decent up front, could care less about the rear. goal is cheap decent shit that sounds half ass quarter ass decent.. this will be assembled over time. starting with hu, front speakers, and amp. then later sub. car …

So here is the scoop. 02 Silverado with older Pio Premier, H701, C701, Sundown 100.4, Sundown 1000D, big 3 with all 1/0 (pos to alt, neg to frame, neg to cab). Had some trouble with some tweets blowing (Link to that thread) and narrowed it down to the Sundown amp. Quote from previously linked thread below Had it sent to db-r they sent it back after they replaced some things. This is what db-r said... So I got it back and during the re-install I installed a Alpine W505, added a HU ground to metal in the truck. For the amp ground I ran a bolt through my cab with 1/0 on one side to the distro and 2 2gauge strands on the other side (had it so I used it). The 2 gauge str…

So I couldn't bear the way my system sounded with $40 pawnshop speakers from a decade ago. So I decided on a two way setup. HiVi M8A 8" mid, alum/magnesium cone, and a Vifa X25 (or 35) tweet I don't remember. Under 200 for all of em. 2cuft each tuned to 26hz Baffle step defraction design (the tweet moves that way it can be the same distance from the listening position as the center of the mid driver. At first I thought this idea was just hifi bullchit but if you close your eyes while listening and someone else moves the tweets around you can really hear it. the best distance I've found is about 4" back from the front baffle. The tweeter mounts are not finished, I'm tryi…