General Audio

I have been thinking a lot lately :nono and I just might sell the rl-p. I am close to getting a new car (possibly this beauty) and am now tihnking a 15" rl-p is just too much. The box and sub weigh around 100 lbs which is way more than you want in the trunk of a 540. Not to mention I don't want this car to fal apart on me. I could probably sell the rl-p and my box locally for over $400 which would then give me some more money for the car and maybe even a little 12" set up to hold me over for awhile. If i sell my nine1 with it I could probably get $700-750, which would definitely help with some mods (read:updated lights) for the 5er. Maybe I'm crazy, but I am really c…

I decide to make a couple vids of hairtricks. My last box was much easier to do hair tricks because it was tuned at 25Hz. This box is tuned at 38Hz and is much harder. But its all for fun so enjoy... p.s. My mom is a teacher and we did this video for her students. This is the better vid.

Recently purchased an SSA Evil 15 and was gonna throw it on a cab-45, will the evil take that much power daily? And what kind of electrical upgrades would I need to meet the system requirements, will be going in a 2005 Tahoe. Not new to car audio but never had to go past an AGM battery in the back.

need some help on some 6x9's. i have alpine sps-600 in the front doors so i was going to match them with the alpine sps-609 but then i saw the spr-69c is not much more money. should i get sps-609 or the spr-69c with no amp?

I need to find a super detailed diagram of every part of the average woofer. I can't figure out how to use search on SSA, maybe i'm slow, but time is of the essence. Does anyone have a link, or a link to a thread with one?

Im thinking about doing a system in our 03 Explorer and wated some input on what issues you have ran into with these. I bought my wife a 2012 Cruze so now the explorer is sitting and Im biting at the bit to do something with it lol. It is up for sale right now but if it doesnt sell soon Im going to start doing something with it. Anyways share all input with these vehicles. Oh and Im still working on the mustang as well

Does anyone have any experience ordering from www.cartronixplus.com ? I know they basically have the lowest prices available, not too big a variety and most of it is sold out but really cheap! Anyone know if there legit? Warranty? any of that stuff?

Car; lancer GLX (sedan)i.e. with a boot Speakers: 2x loaded Fi BL's 12's box slot port common chamber The goal is loud daily and I was told 32hz will work well. According to my dodgy calculater the below specs will give 31.44 Hz before a single 45 corner and a 1" front baffle. obviously the one side will have to be lengthened by .25'' ...i think box with 36" box height 14" depth 22.5" wood thickness .75" for most part of it(exept for front baffle -->other ideas welcome) sq port height 12.5" sq port with 4.5" sq port L1 17.25" sq port L2 5" cheers

well.....10 months have come and gone and now it is time for a new ride......pics will come soon......

Hi, I am new to this sight my name is tony.I have a couple of questions that i need help with.My car is a dodge charger (05),i want a windshield flexing system my favorite sub is the FIBTL im going to be running two 12 inch subs any amp suggestons?

Can somebody explain what it is and what does it do?

ok im buyin a 2003 audiobahn immortal 18 from my friend for really cheap, i know they are by far the best but i need something for my crappy truck for a little while, but i was wondering how much i should put on it, i know he had a 4000 watt legacy (crap) but it hit pretty hard, does anyone know how much they actually put out, and if anyone knows how much can i actually put on it, i read they are 2250 rms and 4000 peak, but i want to push it to its max

when designing a setup, when is it required to have more than 1 battery in the vehicle? If you have an alt capable of supplying the entire demand of current, let's say for a sundown 3000d, would you not need any extra batteries? Extra batteries are more like a voltage stabilizer while the vehicle is running, correct?

I have my amp mounted to the back of my box. It's mounted so that the bottom of my amp is screwed to the back of the box. Is this bad? I was told by a guy yesterday that it can cause internal issues with the amp. Any input?

edit by M5: Topic split to allow the OP to have his thread back. Split from here: what Hybrids have you used? just curious as well, what cost less that in your opinion outperforms? I am looking to try some new mid-bass drivers for the doors, so I never mind trying new equipment. Just as far as midranges I have never found anything to touch my L4's

Which should work better as a window(9'' x 12'') for a box, 1/2" polycarbonate(lexan) or 3/4" Acrylic(plexiglass) ?

? On the internet perferably

I have recently upgraded my sound system to a Sundown u15 D4 1500w rms, and a GK audio 3500.1D1 (3000w rms). No component speaker upgrades...YET. My stock 132 amp alternator is well on its way to being smoked. So, I am ordering a Mechman 320 amp alternator, and would like to know what size battery (that will fit in the stock position) I will need. I don't care so much about amp hours, because bumping the system isn't really a common thing without the engine running. My goal is to NOT run any type of capacitor, and I really don't want to have to add a battery in the back. I am now running an OEM duralast battery (not sure of specs) and with my weak stock altern…

i know most people run a ground wire from the battery up front and then ground the second battery in the rear. but i dont have the room to run 2 0 guage wires. so my question is can i just make a good ground in the back and b done with it??? because i thought a ground was a ground. thanks for the help

I have a 13w7 in a prowedge box. I am reading about the SAZ-1500D. I learned that either I can wire to run the sub at a 3ohm or .75ohm load. Is the SAZ-1500D able to handle that power, also what is the amp stable at? Any help/opinions would be appreciated. thanks!

Of these two wires which one do you think is better? It's gonna be used to attach the front battery to the back battery. Knukonceptz or WeldingSupply Your Thoughts are appreciated, Yang

I know the Term-LAB is by all means the best to use but is also really expensive. Are there any other meters out there that are good and cheaper?

can someone tell me a little about the solo x's and why people dont lke kicker

I'm currently in the process of reconing a 2004 RE XXX v3 15" woofer and haven't made the enclosure yet. I'm planning on building a 3.43 cu. ft sealed enclosure to house this monster, as my goal is more on the ""SQL"" side. The sub's displacement is .21 I've come to a design and have my cut sheets marked and ready to go, but I wanted to see if anyone could provide some input on if I should brace this box with a horizontal or vertical support? Does the enclosure absorb and vibrate this much with that back pressure to where I should brace the box? If so, what materials should I go about using? a piece of wood is fine? The box will have a double baffel…

Any interesting link... Can't remember at all where I got it, but it is very useful when trying to describe what 140 dB means to someone. http://www.makeitlouder.com/Decibel%20Level%20Chart.txt