General Audio

Car; lancer GLX (sedan)i.e. with a boot Speakers: 2x loaded Fi BL's 12's box slot port common chamber The goal is loud daily and I was told 32hz will work well. According to my dodgy calculater the below specs will give 31.44 Hz before a single 45 corner and a 1" front baffle. obviously the one side will have to be lengthened by .25'' ...i think box with 36" box height 14" depth 22.5" wood thickness .75" for most part of it(exept for front baffle -->other ideas welcome) sq port height 12.5" sq port with 4.5" sq port L1 17.25" sq port L2 5" cheers

hey guys!! i haven't been posting much cuz i have been working so much(OFFSHORE). last friday 12th my re xxx 12" came in. i'm getting the box carpeted and installing today as i built the box before i left to go offshore. well today tuesday 16th,my premier 860mp cd player comes in. so i have to install it today when i get back from shopping. i will be sure to get some pics up. charles

well.....10 months have come and gone and now it is time for a new ride......pics will come soon......

Hi, I am new to this sight my name is tony.I have a couple of questions that i need help with.My car is a dodge charger (05),i want a windshield flexing system my favorite sub is the FIBTL im going to be running two 12 inch subs any amp suggestons?

Can somebody explain what it is and what does it do?

ok im buyin a 2003 audiobahn immortal 18 from my friend for really cheap, i know they are by far the best but i need something for my crappy truck for a little while, but i was wondering how much i should put on it, i know he had a 4000 watt legacy (crap) but it hit pretty hard, does anyone know how much they actually put out, and if anyone knows how much can i actually put on it, i read they are 2250 rms and 4000 peak, but i want to push it to its max

when designing a setup, when is it required to have more than 1 battery in the vehicle? If you have an alt capable of supplying the entire demand of current, let's say for a sundown 3000d, would you not need any extra batteries? Extra batteries are more like a voltage stabilizer while the vehicle is running, correct?

I have my amp mounted to the back of my box. It's mounted so that the bottom of my amp is screwed to the back of the box. Is this bad? I was told by a guy yesterday that it can cause internal issues with the amp. Any input?

edit by M5: Topic split to allow the OP to have his thread back. Split from here: what Hybrids have you used? just curious as well, what cost less that in your opinion outperforms? I am looking to try some new mid-bass drivers for the doors, so I never mind trying new equipment. Just as far as midranges I have never found anything to touch my L4's

Which should work better as a window(9'' x 12'') for a box, 1/2" polycarbonate(lexan) or 3/4" Acrylic(plexiglass) ?

? On the internet perferably

Originally posted on caraudio.com Well as most of you know, I recently finished the system I have been waiting for forever.... if not look in my sig. But anyway.... I was driving to work today, playing a song at low volume that doesn't have very much bass at all.... and suddenly I hear this horrible "pop" from my trunk. So, I turned the volume down all the way, and about that time, the most godawful sound came out of the subs.... extrememly loud and fart sounding. When I went to check it out... two of them were blown. Anyone who knows me knows that everything was installed correctly... subs wired correctly, gain set to match input voltage, low bass boost setting.... etc …

I have recently upgraded my sound system to a Sundown u15 D4 1500w rms, and a GK audio 3500.1D1 (3000w rms). No component speaker upgrades...YET. My stock 132 amp alternator is well on its way to being smoked. So, I am ordering a Mechman 320 amp alternator, and would like to know what size battery (that will fit in the stock position) I will need. I don't care so much about amp hours, because bumping the system isn't really a common thing without the engine running. My goal is to NOT run any type of capacitor, and I really don't want to have to add a battery in the back. I am now running an OEM duralast battery (not sure of specs) and with my weak stock altern…

$30 brand new. Hell, I couldn't imagine even finding a plate amp this cheap. I got the whole thing for a fraction of the plate amp. Guess I'll have to set fire to the old CPU subbox, and plug the driver into the 240 plug.

i know most people run a ground wire from the battery up front and then ground the second battery in the rear. but i dont have the room to run 2 0 guage wires. so my question is can i just make a good ground in the back and b done with it??? because i thought a ground was a ground. thanks for the help

I have a 13w7 in a prowedge box. I am reading about the SAZ-1500D. I learned that either I can wire to run the sub at a 3ohm or .75ohm load. Is the SAZ-1500D able to handle that power, also what is the amp stable at? Any help/opinions would be appreciated. thanks!

Of these two wires which one do you think is better? It's gonna be used to attach the front battery to the back battery. Knukonceptz or WeldingSupply Your Thoughts are appreciated, Yang

I know the Term-LAB is by all means the best to use but is also really expensive. Are there any other meters out there that are good and cheaper?

Sorry for the massive pics. Deal with it. Stock deck: Alpine CDA-9813: Kicks with trim rings mounted: Kicks ... fleeced style: Resined kicks: Driver side before: Driver side after: Passenger side before: Passenger side after: Painting in progress: My makeshift paint booth (hey, it was windy): Resin smells. Bondo is the biggest pain in the ass ever ... so I quit, sanded half assed, and painted - so yes, there's flaws right now. But I'll make them perfect eventually. Ignore the wires, they're hidden now. CL-61's if you're wondering. Make sure to use enough resin to soak ALL the way through the fleece ... it takes a LOT to do this. Hmmm what else ... oh, th…

can someone tell me a little about the solo x's and why people dont lke kicker

I'm currently in the process of reconing a 2004 RE XXX v3 15" woofer and haven't made the enclosure yet. I'm planning on building a 3.43 cu. ft sealed enclosure to house this monster, as my goal is more on the ""SQL"" side. The sub's displacement is .21 I've come to a design and have my cut sheets marked and ready to go, but I wanted to see if anyone could provide some input on if I should brace this box with a horizontal or vertical support? Does the enclosure absorb and vibrate this much with that back pressure to where I should brace the box? If so, what materials should I go about using? a piece of wood is fine? The box will have a double baffel…

Any interesting link... Can't remember at all where I got it, but it is very useful when trying to describe what 140 dB means to someone. http://www.makeitlouder.com/Decibel%20Level%20Chart.txt

I was thinking about something the other day.... would love to hear some feedback A comparison of abuse each individual component takes in your typical car audio system, (10,000 watts of power for example) SUBWOOFERS- Typically, a pair of 2500–3000-watt subs on a 10k or 10k worth of power, so real close to double its rated capacity (People blow subs daily, and recon all the time, and never say a word about the product, or quality of product. They just accept its part of the game and move on) $500 sub, $150 recon kit, EVERY time it blows. That gets expensive really quick, but still, nobody cares, they actually seem happy and proud they launc…

Is there any way to wire (1)dual 1ohm sub to 2 ohms? My buddies selling his RF R500.1 and its only stable at 2 ohms.

Has anyone ever used one of these? I bought a used amp, and it didn't come with a bass knob. I heard about these. If anyone knows, do i still set my amp gain like normal?