General Audio

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/3154912993.html can't wait to see how loud this can get.

I wanna see some videos of this song playing on you guys systems! Million Bucks by Trae

ok so my stock tweets are going to sh1t, they make a static noise all the time. so im thinking of just buy some aftermarket ones instead of stock, but i have no clue what to look for in tweets. like soft dome, hard the different materials like silk, titanium, etc. so if someone could give me a crash course in tweets it would e awsome. all i ahve is the HU for power and NO crossover just those gay inline bass blockers. i know ghetto but i wasn't planning on upgrading them but this static is relly gay.

I'm looking for low weight, basically. Rigidity isn't a huge concern because my box will only be 1 cube and in an L-shape, so all the corners and small panel sizes should make it pretty stiff regardless. I may also add a second baffle on front to countersink the sub. Birch is getting up over 60 dollars a sheet, though (5' x 5'). MDF weighs twice as much and half the price. Is there anything else readily available at most lumber yards that would do the job for less?

Basically, I'm trying to think of the most cost-effective way to build a shelf that's rock-solid steady for my turntable. I've been floating a lot of ideas around in my head, from "floating" a piece of MDF in a little sandbox-type thing, to several layers of MDF on soft rubber pads, to wacky ones like a suspended magnetic table (most likely not even possible). So...I'm trying to brainstorm, need ideas for a table that's immune to vibration and help to deaden the internal vibration from the unit itself.

im in need of an enclosure design. preferably a 6th order. im looking for a PROFESSIONAL enclosure design with a nice layout, proper image of the layout. not something a 12 year old drew up in msn paint. i have all meassurements, which subs im using. this will be a wall in my 91 s10 for 8 skar 12's. i need it for music with good low end. but needs to be able to bassrace well. can anyone point me in the right direction?

Hey guys. well if you don't know, I'm trying to go active on this next seutp. I'm wondering a couple things though. 1) you think audio control EQTS(2 since they are mono) and a 4XS is a good combo? I'm choosing them because the EQTS have 31 band 1/3 octave EQ, and the 4xs will support all of my speakers properly. Plus they are pretty cheap, 250 (if you can find them) for the EQTS, and about 60-80 bucks for the 4xs. 2) I need a H/U that will support my 4 way setup, for time alignment. what are some good H/U's that do this? I believe some of the new alpines have 6 channel time alignment capabilites? I'm not really diggin the glide touch though. your thoughts pl…

This is my first post really, just lookin around for an upfiring, ported design for two 12" woofers, preferably tuned to 32Hz....please and thank you for any feedback on this.

Goal is to have a SQ front stage. Plan is to have carbon mids on the doors. Tweeters will probably stick to my Bravox and add a few more. I dont want to leave my rear doors without any speakers so I will prob replace the factory and place a pair of carbon mids there. So far, I dont have plans on putting tweeters on the back doors yet. At first I wanted 8" drivers for midbass, but looks like the carbons will be able to do that job. Thats where I see them benefiting from the extra 50watts from the Leviathan. Prob going to cross them ~63hz I thinking about sticking to 2 amps for the mids/highs. My question pretty much is, what other benefits does the Leviathan have (besides …

Umm, Just like the title, Are there any magazines made that are dedicated to car audio? Thanks ~MadroX

Theres been many topics like this before on forums, people wanting comments and suggestions. It always comes back to what that person wants/likes. Ive got a system setup in mind and obivously am looking for things i should look out for, considering im quite new with sundown amps...any questions/concerns/coments/suggestions all welcome, but as i said i would like to stick with this setup. If there is something that is obviously better/ would work better with this setup i would like to know.... Much appreciated 08 explorer 200amp alty (powermaster) yellow top/ powermaster (dont know yet) big 3 saz3000d 2 13w7's (ported box) hu - Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD

I currently have a optima and stinger zero gauge I was running 3 jl 12w3v3 but sold them I'am now intrested in the Fi's what would be the best 15 for my powerbass asa2000

I am a Mecp advanced level installer working on my masters certification, and I was just wondering I work for Best Buy and the certifications are mainly for pay raises because you make a lot more if your certified. Anyway my question is how much does the certifications matter outside of buisness like Best Buy. I have looked at a lot of job opportunites and none of them really seem to care if your certified or not as long as you can install.

I think I finally decided on a set up. Please tell me if this is optimal for my situation or if im going overboard. The car is a bmw 5 series, the sub will be in the trunk. The trunks tend to be sealed very well in these cars so I need the sub to penetrate. I listen to mainly hippity hop and rap. I want the best of both worlds trunk space left and good sound. 10" ICON ported box probably built to specs of the optimal one in the tech section sax1200d what do you guys think. The only thing I was thinking to change was to go with a cheaper amp. Any reccomendations?

OK, my 18 Btl is on its way for my grand am. the alternator is a 105 amp alternator. so im not sure WHAT im going to need, just that most likely i will to power it suffeciently. I got the BTL fully loaded with everything, and this is my daily driver car. Current Funds-900-1000$ Purchased: Fi BtL 18 here are the Amps i am looking at. Hifonics BXI2008-275$ shipped or a KICKER ZX2500.1-750$ shipped Or what do you reccomend what kind of Cap should i get? or not get one? New alternator? If so what kind? and What kind of wire, i was told Monster 1/0 Gauge is that correct? thing is not sure if i can run the kicker and have enough power STOCK to handle it, and have enough money…

So I want to put 2 kicker 12" L7's in 1998 ford ranger reg cab. Now this is my first time and I've seen it done but don't know how they did it. Last resort would be cutting through the back. Any other ideas from any of you?

Hi all, A friend of mine wants a system for his class c Mercedes. He used to have some kind of spl system his cars, but wants now something small. He will buy a good Alpine head unit and a set of Focal comps for the front(without amp). He like the Icon but need something smaller, 300-600 watts rms. My first option would be a 10" Dcon sub and a small 2 channel amp(maybe a Sundown). Will that be enough for his trunk? will he be able to hear it in the car? The trunk is quite big, and seems to have no ski hole. What are the other options ? He would like to keep the budget as low as possible, but he is not broke, at all !!! To give a budget, hummmmmm : 300 to 400 $ max (witho…

i just ordered a LED lighting kit for my interior, http://www.ledunderbody.com/7-Color-4pc-Expandable-LEDGlow-LED-Interior-Lights-Lighting-Kit.aspx It comes with a microphone that makes the lights pulse to the bass, i know it does not work good because a friend of mine has the same kit. So my question is, is there anyway you can hook this directly up to my HU or amp so it will work perfectly? Thanks, in advance

I'm designing a sub box for a friend of mine here, and I need a bit of help. This is basically how it's going to look: ____ |_/\_| Subs facing in Ports facing trunk. 2 Ports = 2Inches Wide top to bottom Dimensions are Total 34"Wide 20"deep 14"High 3/4 MDF Subs: 2 12" Kicker COMPVX What do I need to get it tuned to 34hz, port wise? If you guys would suggest a different tuning, what hZ value, and what size ports?

I just got a new car and I don't know what to put in the car sound wise. Previous owner put an Alpine CDA-9835 head unit in the car with a Phoenix Gold OCTANE-R 9.0:5 amp. I don't like this head unit and I want to replace it. I was looking at the Avic-D3 but I'm not sure about that any more. I don't really know much about the amp I havn't really had a chance to toy with its settings but at this point I don't like what I hear from the stock speakers at all. And I don't know if its because of the amp or if its the speakers. Im my old car I had Rockford Fosgate 1100a2 amp FI Q 12 Infinity Kappa 60.7cs components in the front and back JVC KD-SH1000 Headunit Rockford Fosgate…

This is just something i have been wondering since i found out how a ported box works. I know that IB separates the front wave from the back. And I know that a port acts somewhat like another speaker above and at tuning. But what if you were to build a ported box, and seal off the port from the front wave entirely. like, the woofers face forward, and the port faces the trunk but you seal off the baffle from the trunk entirely. I googled it, but came up with nothing.

Ok I have a 07 dodge charger, i have a Fi BL 15. I want to build a box and have it walled off right in the middle of the trunk where the trunk mat splits to fold up. are there any websites or anything that can help me with the demintions and the build? also in the top of the trunk it slants down where they made room for the 6x9s. its my first time attempting this, so im kinda confused. well here are a few pics of what i want it to look like when its done, but i only have one sub.

I have an opportunity to buy either. full bodies or mini. I am planning to go full. but my question is: 1. Is it worth the extra money to get the pro instead of the cd1e? 2. Will i notice a significant difference? I plan to use a passive crossover that i will make (from schematics the ID tech gave) but will be EQing using my eclipse cd7000(7band peq). iirc i can only use passive on the cd1e and not the pro. correct? I dont think my deck has a fancy enough dsp to handle the pro?...or am i wrong? thanks. oh btw id like for them to play down to 1kish. my mids are hertz hsk 165s if it matters.

I've been out of car audio for a long time and I need some help choosing new components. I already have speakers, subs and amps so this is just for source components and processors. I'm looking for affordable but nice-sounding products. The one thing I absolutely don't want is harsh-sounding electronics. I want a H/U with CD, DVD, FM, HD radio, and digital output. The only thing that must be built into the face is CD. For the sake of economy, the H/U doesn't need a built-in screen but, if it does, I want a touch screen with nice controls. The DVD is actually a future upgrade (maybe) and will have a larger separate screen. I prefer that the H/U not have built-in amps …

I have an 07 Dodge Ram 3500 Mega Cab My head unit is: - Kenwood KDC-BT852HD. Which is 50W x 4 In my front doors I have: - Alpine Type R SPR-69 speakers. Which is RMS 100w & Peak 300w In the rear doors I have: - Alpine Type R SPR-60 which is RMS 100w & Peak 300w For my sub I have: - Alpine Type R SWR-12D2 which is RMS 1000w and Peak 3000w Now I need help on choosing an amp to power everything and I`d like to get the most out of all 4 speakers and sub. I have a list below of amps that will work with my system. Which two amps would be best for my set up? Thanks! Sub amps: - Nakamichi - PA-1500 1200 Watt RMS Mono Digital Bass 1 Ohm Amplifier - TXA-1000D - Cadence Cla…