General Audio
An Open Forum Dedicated To all audio questions that do not fall under the other specific categories.
3,954 topics in this forum
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Well guys it has been a while since I have been here---ALOT of changes are about to be made---- 1--I am selling the Explorer 2--I am getting a 2005 All-Wheel Drive Dodge Magnum R/T in cool vanilla---can't wait 3--I am the top salesman at my Dodge dealership(I am in sales) 4--me and the wife just celebrated our 4 year ann. 5--I am also getting a MaxxBass 103 for the hell of it to test it out just to see if it is what it says it is. anything new from you guys? PS---winter will be fun---340 HP---390 lbs of torque and about 3000watts of pure SQ----any takers on helping me?
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RAAMmat on sale!!! "We have decided to extend the order date for the 20% refund until the end of this week, Friday the 29th." So get it quick!
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So i was just rear ended 2 hours ago at a red light. I have a 2004 chevy blazer and was the first in my lane at a red light. the guy next to me jumped and the girl behind me floored it in her dodge stratus. When it happened, my door speakers popped and do not work anymore. the fuses are all good, my amp still works as do my subs. So, i'm thinking about buying some raw drivers from Parts express and trying myself at an active 2 way since i have a Pioneer DEH-P880PRS. Anyone have any good suggestions for under $200 total? I've been looking at Vifa tweeters and Dayton mids because they are so cheap and yet model really well in a few programs i have access to. Thanks for any …
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When using the online port length calculator, http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31 , when it says to input the internal cf of my box do i use the gross - bracing - driver displacement or do I use gross - bracing - driver displacement - estimated port displacement? IE i have 5.2 cf gross internel volume. I will have about 4.6-4.7 after bracing and woofer displacement. Should I use 4.6 as my internal cf or should I use 4.0 cf as I am estimating the port will take up .6-.7 cf? btw the port size is 19x3. Thanks very much
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i plan on relocating my battery to the trunk and adding a second one. couple question: 1)they are wired parallel, correct? 2)do i need a fuse in between the batteries? 3)do i need to fuse the power wire running from the engine bay to the trunk?
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So I just bought a matching RE XXX 04-05 motor and I want to either do (2) 12"s or (2) 10"s. I have space in the trunk to provide both enclosures, but a 12" build would suck up every bit of trunk space and I'm afraid of having to built the box in the trunk. I really don't want to do this..My car has 165k on it, and I don't want to have to get a new rear suspension, or struggle with fitting the box through my trunk opening. I suppose I could turn the box and slip it in through the back seat, but sealing off and port forward, subs forwards, and trunk wall are all new to me. I was thinking of doing (2) 10" in about 5 cubes and port back subs back. Slamm…
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I just got a Kicker s12l72. I was planning on getting the 40hm but I got the 2 brand new for a steal. But Now Im confused on what amp I should get. Will the Kicker 750.1 be fine. And should I wire it for 1 ohm or 4 ohms? Thanks
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o what could it be
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I've been sitting on the gear in my sig below for the past 3-4 months waiting on the box to arrive, which did about a week ago. I'm relatively new to the car audio scene. I know quite a bit, yet have little to zero hands on experience. My last sub was done by Best Buy just to shed a little light on my ignorance. I have a brand new car and don't want to be screwing things up, but it looks like I have to now. I went to Sound Concept in Nanuet, NY to show off what equipment I had to be installed to the owner. He said he'd give me a quote, which I expected to be about $750 AT THE MOST. He then quotes me for around $1,300-$1,900 and it blew my freaking mind. As he tallied up l…
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QUESTION: When an "Alternator Manufacturer" gives you an "Output at Idle" number - What do you want to hear? Most people just want to hear a high number and they're happy from that point on out.... Until they have 12.4 volts at a stoplight and 14.8 when they drive... Do you think they have been “deceived” lied to? The industry standard for an "Idle output" test is 2400 ROTOR rpm. That's approximately 800 engine rpm if you have a 3:1 pulley ratio. It’s been that way for years...& as far as today that number should really be 2000 Rotor RPM instead of 2400 because crank pulleys have got way smaller on most vehicles which makes the "Outpu…
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Ok, within the next month or so I plan on getting a car stereo for my new car. I'm probably getting 4 alpine type component speakers, tweeters and cross overs with either a kenwood double din deck or a Power Acoustik touch screen deck to power the speakers. Now for the subs, right now Its between Fi and Dc, I'm leaning towards Fi but I'm just wondering what is the difference really between the Bl and the Dc?
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Well first sorry for making a somewhat new thread, I thought it wasnt reasonable to keep my questions going on the Fi Technical zone. Maybe I can get more help here I have a problem which Im trying to solve. Basically, Im trying to set my gains right, however, I dont have DMM or O-Scope so I have to do it by ear. Pioneer TS-W3002D4 @ 2ohms 1k RMS 12" Sundown 2000D @ 2ohms 1k RMS Rockford Fosgate 4-gauge kit Factory HU using RCA with Line Output Converter. Stock amp, no Big 3 No Bass Boost on Amp. No Bass Boost on Headunit. Everything Flat.
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I just had an idea on a sub enclosure for my 2002 reg cab s10..... what im thinking is to take out both seats and make an enclosure shaped like a bench seat (with cushion and carpet covering it) with a sub firing backwards behind where each seat was or maybe one firing backwards in the middle i havent worked out any details yet but i need opinions, because i dunno how safe this would be, say if i got into an accident or even if i could make a box sturdy enuf to support myself and other ppl Now, time for you guys to either tell me how stupid it is(cuz it might very well be lol) or gimme some help designing it!! any pros or cons would help!! Thanx Tom
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Sup guys! I was wondering/ asking myself.. On birtsheets from Rockford Fosgate or Kicker, etc amps, why do diferent wattage ratings come up on birthseets? If a zx2500.1 is built the same as the next zx2500.1 built why would one say I.E 2,753 vs the second amp that says 2,945? If they both consist of the same parts and what not, why would power variate instead of being similar? Thanks for the input
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Blew the power supply in my amp. Had it fixed and just installed the amp back in. On zero volume there is a loud alien like sound as soon as i turn on the headunit. Could this be a bad ground? My right mid fell from its baffle and the frame was resting on the metal door. Did this ground blow something else? Thanks for any input. Steve
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Have i been looking at body work / finish work on fiberglass and vynil too long? NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0491.jpg NDMstang65v2: is good work NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0481.jpg NDMstang65v2: is rippled and un linear...amps have a film on them NDMstang65v2: and there's fiberglass dust everywhere NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0475.jpg NDMstang65v2: good install NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0455.jpg NDMstang65v2: bad install, you never make a hole in fiberglass that you can't get to and sand/finish if it's going to be see…
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Just finished putting together my DIY home subwoofer. I used a Soundsplinter RL-p15 DVC2 and an Oaudio Bash 500 watt amp...... the box is 4.6 cf gross, 3.2 cf after port/bracing/speaker deductions. The box is made of 1.25" mdf and oak vaneered. The port is 2.25" x 16" and 43" long tuned at ~24hz. Mike at Soundsplinter and Todd at Oaudio are two of the greatest people and are willing to help in anyway possible. Also, I can't say enough good about their products!!! I tested the sub on Pearl Harbor and the Japanese attack scene almost brought down the walls..................
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what should i do!!! 1. Finnish new sub box 2. Make some GIANT pods for my doors 3. Work on my subbass amp rack 4. Work on my Front stage amp rack 5. Kill someone. i have so many things to do its like its all clogged up in my head...
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If god permits, next year i'll be in pharmacy school living with and leeching off my aunt/uncle. I hope to put a HT setup in and will use the subs i already have (for a start). My question is which should i use. I have the two 15" atlases and the 1 15" avalanche. I'm not sure how much different HT is from car audio, so i'll put my speculations and you all can feel free to correct me. two atlases will have more than enough output i'm sure. But won't get as low as the Avalanche. The avalanche will get low, but not as much output. Also I imagine an amp for the atlases would be easier to come by. (300W @ 4ohm vs 800W @ 4ohm) So my question is for HT is lows needed mo…
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Hello, I recently got an xbl^2 xxx motor from a friend. I was wondering who would have a re-cone kit for it. I have the motor and basket, I checked on Fi's website, but they don't seem to have it. I did see the MT's recone kit though, was wondering if I could use MT soft parts?
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Front main woofers- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-364 Center channel and Rear woofers- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-330 Tweets- (one in center channel, one in each main, one in each rear) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=277-408 Subwoofers- 2 RE RE 10's (you know what they look like) Subwoofer amp- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=300-793 I was thinking of running the ribbon tweet from Dayton but it has to be cutoff at 3k hz and there was a hard gap to fill between 2 and 3k hz. I want drivers that can bridge the gap and if the response graphs are anything like the real output …
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i ordered some zcon recones and baskets beginning of may. just trying to get an idea when they would come
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Hey there everyone I was just looking for some opinions on what my next upgrade in my car stereo should be to improve overall loudness and sound quality... Here are my specs: 2001 Ford Windstar Van 270 mechman alternator Kinetik HC2000 under the hood knukonceptz 0 guage all soldered with big 3 upgrade 2 Alpine type r 12s (d4s) Hifonics Brz 1200d @ 1ohm Superbass probox prefab fart box Sony CDX-M8800 head unit 4 Infinity 6x9s on Rockford p300 4 pioneer 6x8s on JL 500/5 Metra speaker wire I am completely unsure what item to replace to improve my sound (louder and deeper bass mostly) the most or if someone suggests adding another battery I'm not sure but I would lo…
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I'm designing a sub box for a friend of mine here, and I need a bit of help. This is basically how it's going to look: ____ |_/\_| Subs facing in Ports facing trunk. 2 Ports = 2Inches Wide top to bottom Dimensions are Total 34"Wide 20"deep 14"High 3/4 MDF Subs: 2 12" Kicker COMPVX What do I need to get it tuned to 34hz, port wise? If you guys would suggest a different tuning, what hZ value, and what size ports?
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