General Audio

what kind of meter do you guys use? i know termlab is the one but....i dont have $650 to spend on a spl meter but i wasnt sure of a meter that gives me a good estimate on what my car is doing without breaking the bank

So i really am stumped, i dont know how to start my install. I am putting a 15" Fi BTL in my 06 4Runner. For an amp im deciding between an audioque 2200D or an Sundown 1500D, which would be more suited for my car, its battery is 12.8v and the alt puts out a wopping 75. I assume il need to prob get better electrical, i will do the big 3 in 0ga but i dont know if itll help. So basicly i dont know where to start, should i buy subs first or amp or both, Or even wire, i assume i need 0ga any other kinds? So basicly to say the least i have no idea where i should start with this amazing install ha Thanks Sam

what should i do!!! 1. Finnish new sub box 2. Make some GIANT pods for my doors 3. Work on my subbass amp rack 4. Work on my Front stage amp rack 5. Kill someone. i have so many things to do its like its all clogged up in my head...

So I'm in the process of saving up cash for my new system. I'm almost 17 and working at mcdonalds bringing in about 150-200 a week. But anyways here we go, I only have room for 1 15 or 2 12's yes I considered taking out my backseats and making a 2 18" wall but that's a little drastic. Thought about going with a BTL 15 and putting it on a 3500 (either aq or sundown) But figured for a little more money I could get 2 12" BTLs and put them on 2 2k's (aq2200 or sundown2000) Both would be going in roughly 4 cubes @ 32 hz Is it worth the extra money for 2 12" btls? Only a little more cone area and 1000 more watts.

I have wanted to get a meter for a while now so I can play with diff box pos. etc... term labs are sooo pricey, do you guys know of any good meters for less. I think shizzon said he is using a Hyperdynamics or something like that....any input is welcome

Guys, I send my T3 Tss 15 in to T3 audio for repair it's a long story but now they will not talk to me, hell they or he said send it in, now I email an but no answer.So now I need a new subwoofer but I'm only going to buy from a company with good customer service. So who has been good to you guys?

i need some ideas for mouthing my amp.. i have a t30000bd and i kind wanna make it so everything is clean and you cant see my amp.. any ideas maybe

So I've called 6 shops in my area and none of them have a term lab or any sort of meter. I don't feel like shelling out $700+ for a term lab. Am I basically SOL?

I installed a Optima yellow top battery as my second battery. I previously had a 4 farad Cap in the trunk and the power wire was ran from the main battery to a 0 gauge splitter and 4 gauge was ran from the splitter to the Cap and the Sundown SAX1200d. I removed the Cap and added the battery in the same spot(I added a 150A fuse to the 4 gauge run from the splitter to the secondary battery). Should I run the 0 gauge wire coming from the main battery directly the second battery or is it fine the way it is? Again I have the batteries fused with 400A total between the 2.

Hey everyone, just bought a 96 honda civic ex coupe.. looking to upgrade my door speakers. this model vehicle has a component speaker system with a 6.5" midbass driver and 2" tweeters.. I'm wondering if these are hooked up to a crossover because I can't find one in the car.. And is it worth it to keep the crossovers (if there are any) and just upgrade the tweeters and midbass? and one more question is temporarily i have some pioneer 6.5 coaxials hooked up to where the midbass drivers would be, so far they sound good running off the headunit but should i not do that because im supposed to use a midbass driver?

no

i gotta guy wanting me to a build for him in his 73' caprice convertible and i need some suggestions! he wants to go big but he doesn't like ported boxes for some odd reason. now he's seen my other builds and he expects it to be as loud as those. i might be able to convince him to go ported but it really has to slam. here's the catch, it all has to be in the trunk! but the good news is he has an open wallet. im thinkin 8-12" sa's and about 12000 watts rms. any suggestions out there?

So I finally figured out roughly what I will be doing, probably a single 15" BL ported. How should I position these in my trunk. I know the typical is subs and ports facing the rear of the car. More than likely I will almost always have the back seats down, should this affect the way I point my subs and port. Should I go subs facing forward with port foward if my seats are always down, or subs facing the rear of the car and port facing the front of the car. Thanks for the help and patience with me.

Can anyone point me in the direction of some? Trying to get some ideas for my Pontiac. Need to see what people have put in without tearing out the back seat. I have two 12W7's, two X12's and two Zv4's at my disposal. TIA

Well guys it has been a while since I have been here---ALOT of changes are about to be made---- 1--I am selling the Explorer 2--I am getting a 2005 All-Wheel Drive Dodge Magnum R/T in cool vanilla---can't wait 3--I am the top salesman at my Dodge dealership(I am in sales) 4--me and the wife just celebrated our 4 year ann. 5--I am also getting a MaxxBass 103 for the hell of it to test it out just to see if it is what it says it is. anything new from you guys? PS---winter will be fun---340 HP---390 lbs of torque and about 3000watts of pure SQ----any takers on helping me?

im about to do my very first system and i wanted to know if any one would even want to see it. all it is is a alpine type r 10 with a alpine mrp-m500 amp in a ported box. in the front is a kenwood HU and alpine sps-600 speakers. idk if thats a good build log but if anyone wants to see the build log let me know. im getting my amp in a few weeks so that is when i will be installing everything.

Front main woofers- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-364 Center channel and Rear woofers- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-330 Tweets- (one in center channel, one in each main, one in each rear) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=277-408 Subwoofers- 2 RE RE 10's (you know what they look like) Subwoofer amp- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=300-793 I was thinking of running the ribbon tweet from Dayton but it has to be cutoff at 3k hz and there was a hard gap to fill between 2 and 3k hz. I want drivers that can bridge the gap and if the response graphs are anything like the real output …

Which one of these subs would give me the most bang for the money. btw I'm only have 1200watts to play with. i also want it to sound good as well.

My girl leased a new Rav4, and looking to make some changes to the factory stereo. Keeping the stock touch screen HU, and want to keep everything as factory looking as possible (drop in speakers, no cutting/custom) in the chance we turn it in at the end. In the title I put "reliable" as, there is a good chance we will buy this at the end of the lease and have it a long time. My back isn't so great, so Id like to do this once, and have it last. I have a couple sets of Crescendo CCX65s that Ive had since 2011. They were only used for about 18-20 months though, (only 4 months amped at 60w). The surrounds are loose, they don't sound as good as they did, there is rust on/aro…

Just finished putting together my DIY home subwoofer. I used a Soundsplinter RL-p15 DVC2 and an Oaudio Bash 500 watt amp...... the box is 4.6 cf gross, 3.2 cf after port/bracing/speaker deductions. The box is made of 1.25" mdf and oak vaneered. The port is 2.25" x 16" and 43" long tuned at ~24hz. Mike at Soundsplinter and Todd at Oaudio are two of the greatest people and are willing to help in anyway possible. Also, I can't say enough good about their products!!! I tested the sub on Pearl Harbor and the Japanese attack scene almost brought down the walls..................

On youtube there are videos of people running an insane amount of subs in their vehicles for spl applications. Like 15 15's or 6 18's and other crazy numbers of subs. How do they have enough space?? An FI BL 15 for example is recommended to need 3-5 cubic feet of space plus port area. If you run 15 of them together thats 45-75 cubic feet of space plus port area... Do SUV's and vans really have that much space?? Or does the fact that there are so many cones moving so much air make them work the way they do without having the recomended amount of space?? Im just curious if anybody knows how so many subs can be run together and do what they do in the space they are put in.

well i finnally got my 2 12 ssd n saz1500 put in my impala. damn they hit hard as hell. thanx 2 ecro n every1 else that help me pick out my stuff. I AM A post pics n vids soon

Running four Dc audio 15 level subs off 4 sundown 1500 wired to 1 ohm.with four odessy 2250 and 210 amp altnators The problem i have is that the four subs come out a long way (not meant to do it in a funny style osaltion)When i get to about 152 db on music. I used to be able to bass race at 154.5 but now can't run that loud at all. I switched from running two crown bpx 2200.And made the box bigger to over 20 cubic's after displacment.it was 14 cubic foot after displacment. I am wondering is the problem cause the box is to big. box is tuned to 32 hz. Burps at 45hz and 155.1 with the 20 cubic foot and 154.6 with the 14cubic foot.

A 1000bd fosgate is plenty of power for this sub right?? And what is a good enclosure size for this?? 3-5??

well i just got the Alpine 9831 body wiring and all, except for the FACEplate, i powered it up with a regulator i have and the hear the cd player try to scran like noremal but i was wondering if it would come on with my 9815 face? or do i have to wiat and get the 9831 face?