General Audio

Guys, I send my T3 Tss 15 in to T3 audio for repair it's a long story but now they will not talk to me, hell they or he said send it in, now I email an but no answer.So now I need a new subwoofer but I'm only going to buy from a company with good customer service. So who has been good to you guys?

i need some ideas for mouthing my amp.. i have a t30000bd and i kind wanna make it so everything is clean and you cant see my amp.. any ideas maybe

So I've called 6 shops in my area and none of them have a term lab or any sort of meter. I don't feel like shelling out $700+ for a term lab. Am I basically SOL?

Can anyone else get into their website? Mine just keeps giving me a blank white screen when I get a few clicks into it. http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/

I installed a Optima yellow top battery as my second battery. I previously had a 4 farad Cap in the trunk and the power wire was ran from the main battery to a 0 gauge splitter and 4 gauge was ran from the splitter to the Cap and the Sundown SAX1200d. I removed the Cap and added the battery in the same spot(I added a 150A fuse to the 4 gauge run from the splitter to the secondary battery). Should I run the 0 gauge wire coming from the main battery directly the second battery or is it fine the way it is? Again I have the batteries fused with 400A total between the 2.

Hey everyone, just bought a 96 honda civic ex coupe.. looking to upgrade my door speakers. this model vehicle has a component speaker system with a 6.5" midbass driver and 2" tweeters.. I'm wondering if these are hooked up to a crossover because I can't find one in the car.. And is it worth it to keep the crossovers (if there are any) and just upgrade the tweeters and midbass? and one more question is temporarily i have some pioneer 6.5 coaxials hooked up to where the midbass drivers would be, so far they sound good running off the headunit but should i not do that because im supposed to use a midbass driver?

no

i gotta guy wanting me to a build for him in his 73' caprice convertible and i need some suggestions! he wants to go big but he doesn't like ported boxes for some odd reason. now he's seen my other builds and he expects it to be as loud as those. i might be able to convince him to go ported but it really has to slam. here's the catch, it all has to be in the trunk! but the good news is he has an open wallet. im thinkin 8-12" sa's and about 12000 watts rms. any suggestions out there?

am i right? the excert below is from an email, Custom Audio from marble hill, mo...i'm still trying to find his/her s/n over at ca.com

Are you all still posting install pics? If so how do I change the size of my pics so that they are smaller in size. Most of the ones that I have are between 600 and 800kb.

So I finally figured out roughly what I will be doing, probably a single 15" BL ported. How should I position these in my trunk. I know the typical is subs and ports facing the rear of the car. More than likely I will almost always have the back seats down, should this affect the way I point my subs and port. Should I go subs facing forward with port foward if my seats are always down, or subs facing the rear of the car and port facing the front of the car. Thanks for the help and patience with me.

Can anyone point me in the direction of some? Trying to get some ideas for my Pontiac. Need to see what people have put in without tearing out the back seat. I have two 12W7's, two X12's and two Zv4's at my disposal. TIA

im about to do my very first system and i wanted to know if any one would even want to see it. all it is is a alpine type r 10 with a alpine mrp-m500 amp in a ported box. in the front is a kenwood HU and alpine sps-600 speakers. idk if thats a good build log but if anyone wants to see the build log let me know. im getting my amp in a few weeks so that is when i will be installing everything.

Can anyone tell me how I can hook stuff up so I can play music through my laptop? My laptop has 1000's of songs from CD's and what not. Any receiver on the market can't top my laptop. Any way you could help me figure this out please do. Thanks, Jonathan

Which one of these subs would give me the most bang for the money. btw I'm only have 1200watts to play with. i also want it to sound good as well.

My girl leased a new Rav4, and looking to make some changes to the factory stereo. Keeping the stock touch screen HU, and want to keep everything as factory looking as possible (drop in speakers, no cutting/custom) in the chance we turn it in at the end. In the title I put "reliable" as, there is a good chance we will buy this at the end of the lease and have it a long time. My back isn't so great, so Id like to do this once, and have it last. I have a couple sets of Crescendo CCX65s that Ive had since 2011. They were only used for about 18-20 months though, (only 4 months amped at 60w). The surrounds are loose, they don't sound as good as they did, there is rust on/aro…

Just finished putting together my DIY home subwoofer. I used a Soundsplinter RL-p15 DVC2 and an Oaudio Bash 500 watt amp...... the box is 4.6 cf gross, 3.2 cf after port/bracing/speaker deductions. The box is made of 1.25" mdf and oak vaneered. The port is 2.25" x 16" and 43" long tuned at ~24hz. Mike at Soundsplinter and Todd at Oaudio are two of the greatest people and are willing to help in anyway possible. Also, I can't say enough good about their products!!! I tested the sub on Pearl Harbor and the Japanese attack scene almost brought down the walls..................

On youtube there are videos of people running an insane amount of subs in their vehicles for spl applications. Like 15 15's or 6 18's and other crazy numbers of subs. How do they have enough space?? An FI BL 15 for example is recommended to need 3-5 cubic feet of space plus port area. If you run 15 of them together thats 45-75 cubic feet of space plus port area... Do SUV's and vans really have that much space?? Or does the fact that there are so many cones moving so much air make them work the way they do without having the recomended amount of space?? Im just curious if anybody knows how so many subs can be run together and do what they do in the space they are put in.

well i finnally got my 2 12 ssd n saz1500 put in my impala. damn they hit hard as hell. thanx 2 ecro n every1 else that help me pick out my stuff. I AM A post pics n vids soon

Running four Dc audio 15 level subs off 4 sundown 1500 wired to 1 ohm.with four odessy 2250 and 210 amp altnators The problem i have is that the four subs come out a long way (not meant to do it in a funny style osaltion)When i get to about 152 db on music. I used to be able to bass race at 154.5 but now can't run that loud at all. I switched from running two crown bpx 2200.And made the box bigger to over 20 cubic's after displacment.it was 14 cubic foot after displacment. I am wondering is the problem cause the box is to big. box is tuned to 32 hz. Burps at 45hz and 155.1 with the 20 cubic foot and 154.6 with the 14cubic foot.

A 1000bd fosgate is plenty of power for this sub right?? And what is a good enclosure size for this?? 3-5??

well i just got the Alpine 9831 body wiring and all, except for the FACEplate, i powered it up with a regulator i have and the hear the cd player try to scran like noremal but i was wondering if it would come on with my 9815 face? or do i have to wiat and get the 9831 face?

Have i been looking at body work / finish work on fiberglass and vynil too long? NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0491.jpg NDMstang65v2: is good work NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0481.jpg NDMstang65v2: is rippled and un linear...amps have a film on them NDMstang65v2: and there's fiberglass dust everywhere NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0475.jpg NDMstang65v2: good install NDMstang65v2: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/blink...52/100_0455.jpg NDMstang65v2: bad install, you never make a hole in fiberglass that you can't get to and sand/finish if it's going to be see…

I have a low budget and found a deal on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350193519262 it comes with 2 10" subs in a box and an amp for $170 obviously i know that these arent going to be the best subs, but i dont plan on playing my music mind-numbingly loud. Just loud enough to get some crisp base thumping. Ive never bought or had subs in my car before. let me know how the specs of the subs and amp stack up, and if theyre worth the price. -thanks!

If god permits, next year i'll be in pharmacy school living with and leeching off my aunt/uncle. I hope to put a HT setup in and will use the subs i already have (for a start). My question is which should i use. I have the two 15" atlases and the 1 15" avalanche. I'm not sure how much different HT is from car audio, so i'll put my speculations and you all can feel free to correct me. two atlases will have more than enough output i'm sure. But won't get as low as the Avalanche. The avalanche will get low, but not as much output. Also I imagine an amp for the atlases would be easier to come by. (300W @ 4ohm vs 800W @ 4ohm) So my question is for HT is lows needed mo…