General Audio

i've become quite bored with the people in NC as almost everyone here is stuck on Alpine and JL and no one offers any good company. I am at wits end with people where i work who think Zapco is a Walmart brand and that the Kicker Comp Vrs are a good sub to get. No offense to the company as a whole, but i'm on to better things than those play toys. So where are the NC members? I need people who are into the same companies and same wants in car audio, SQ and good amt of SPL and don't try and tell me a Sony P5 is the key for my setup. Also as a side note, I need people who are also very good tech wise and good on reviews. I am starting my own online company and looking …

I recently installed an inexpensive amp (Pyramid 4 channel 1600w) for the 4 mids and highs but now have a noise when ever I turn up the gains of this amp. I have a noise filter on the positive lead to the radio but still have this. Can this be from the cheap amp or the Iraggi alternator? It was not there before. Any ideas??? Thanks, JR

Because of the price of the two local audio shops to get a true custom enclosure built, everyone any anyone is getting cookie cutter boxes from them. IE, preprogramed into their saw for their vehicle, or, even cheaper, basically prefab w/o the actualy fabrication. Better than prefab but unless the T/S params lend themselves to the given volume/tuning and the box is tuned to the owners ears, they end up unsatisfied. I've already done a few boxes for people around school and they have been extremely satisfied. I recive complements almost daily on "so and so's" box. But these where mostly close friends and i charged very little. My question is, how much should i charge to ma…

I have 2 12" 2xl's and a Powerbass XA-1500d in a sealed enclosure ( getting a bigger box i think its 2 small). Its sounds pretty damn good overall clean tight bass. I had a slight issue with the bass boost being as high as the gain (at half) and the amp going into protect but other than that no issues and everthing sounds good. As soon as I get my other box I'll post a vid.

So i've got an Fi SSD15 in a 3 cube box @ 37hz. sounds really awesome and clean on the lows, up to about 55hz. there seems to be a massive hole in the bass response between 60-70hz. I have the LPF at around 110hz because despite what i hear most people cross their subs at, mine just gets louder and louder and plays clean up to that spot. there's no apparent cancellation when i open the trunk, the woofer seems to play all the way from 30-100hz effortlessly and with a fairly transient response. the thing is that its in a sub UP port back configuration, and there only about 3-4 inches of clearance between the subwoofer cone and the roof of the trunk. I had tried moving t…

so i hit a bump today on the highway and my front speakers cut out and stopped working for like 5 seconds then they came back in. there all stock. an i have a sony head unit. im guessing a cable came loose in the back of the HU?

well i just got 4 brand new rockforad p2's d4 8's in a trade and i really have no use for them, so what do you think i should do with them heres some crappy pics of them

I an almost ready to purchase my pair of 18 in zcons. FTW! I'm still debating on what amp(s) to use for them. Any thoughts? Opinions? Statements? Etc? I'm thinkin SAZ 4500 if I can find one used. Maybe even Crescendo 's line but I haven't seen what they have out recently. I don't do competitions, this setup is just for show and enjoyment. But I want some bang in my car. Please, feel free to comment on anything, I'm open to what yall gotta say. I'm in the thinking process right now. Thank you. -Marcus G.

just as it states. i wanna wall off wanna of my lincolns. lemme hear it.

I currently have a optima and stinger zero gauge I was running 3 jl 12w3v3 but sold them I'am now intrested in the Fi's what would be the best 15 for my powerbass asa2000

Im picking up a new 2012 Subaru Impreza Sport Limited hatcback tomorrow or Thursday. Getting it loaded with nav, so I dont want to swap out the HU. Never did any audio stuff with a stock HU, so not sure what I should get. Do I get line out converters, or 3way crossover? I was looking at the Lanzar Vibe X6, for $35. Wondering if its cheap for a reason. Im going to be swapping out the front speakers with Crescendo CCX65s, filling in the rear with Crescendo Pro Audio mids, and want to put my Havoc 12 in the back. I have a MBQuart ONX 4.80 and 1500.1D (plan to get the new Crescendo 1100C4 at some point). Might also run XST2 super tweeters as well if they will fit in the dash…

I know this is probably a stupid question to you guys but what is the purpose of it?

what kind of meter do you guys use? i know termlab is the one but....i dont have $650 to spend on a spl meter but i wasnt sure of a meter that gives me a good estimate on what my car is doing without breaking the bank

So i really am stumped, i dont know how to start my install. I am putting a 15" Fi BTL in my 06 4Runner. For an amp im deciding between an audioque 2200D or an Sundown 1500D, which would be more suited for my car, its battery is 12.8v and the alt puts out a wopping 75. I assume il need to prob get better electrical, i will do the big 3 in 0ga but i dont know if itll help. So basicly i dont know where to start, should i buy subs first or amp or both, Or even wire, i assume i need 0ga any other kinds? So basicly to say the least i have no idea where i should start with this amazing install ha Thanks Sam

Does anyone see a need for lower priced High end installation accessories? What I'm saying is if you could get the Expensive Stinger, Tsunami, EFX stuff for a hair more than Knukonceptz would you buy it? Or Dynamat for that matter? How about some specialty tools that are not readily available to the average DIYer? Give me some feedback please. This is important.

VIPER 2500D OR A AUTOTEK mm2000.1 JUST WANT TO KNOW WHAT DO YOU THINK IS BETTER

i have about 1200 watts on the system and the oem alternator i think is 80 amps. i want to get an extra battery in the trunk. i can either get the kinetik hc800 or the hc1400. i do not know if my stock alternator will be able to handle the battery under the hood and the hc1400. i can buy the 1400 from a friend for about 140 so its a good deal. but im afraid that my alternator will die if i use the hc1400 instead of the hc800. does anyone know if i could go with the hc1400? o and i also have a H/O alternator with 130amps but i dont know if it actually does more than stock at idle so i dont know if the h/o alternator would be any better at powering the extra hc1400. any hel…

So I'm in the process of saving up cash for my new system. I'm almost 17 and working at mcdonalds bringing in about 150-200 a week. But anyways here we go, I only have room for 1 15 or 2 12's yes I considered taking out my backseats and making a 2 18" wall but that's a little drastic. Thought about going with a BTL 15 and putting it on a 3500 (either aq or sundown) But figured for a little more money I could get 2 12" BTLs and put them on 2 2k's (aq2200 or sundown2000) Both would be going in roughly 4 cubes @ 32 hz Is it worth the extra money for 2 12" btls? Only a little more cone area and 1000 more watts.

I have wanted to get a meter for a while now so I can play with diff box pos. etc... term labs are sooo pricey, do you guys know of any good meters for less. I think shizzon said he is using a Hyperdynamics or something like that....any input is welcome

So I just filled my box with polyfill and I do all my connections. Then I connect the amp to the box, throw the fuse in, and jump in the car in anticipation of some wonderful sounds. To my disappointment, the music sounds exactly as it did prior to installing the subs. My first guess is that the amp isn't connected properly and is not powering up. Upon inspection the amp is turned on. It's a bit late and I'm too tired to start taking things apart. I'm pretty sure all the wiring is secure. I'm just hoping that the screws I used aren't the problem. I will feel like an idiot they are the problem. Instead of using a those fancy speaker terminals I used some bolts …

Guys, I send my T3 Tss 15 in to T3 audio for repair it's a long story but now they will not talk to me, hell they or he said send it in, now I email an but no answer.So now I need a new subwoofer but I'm only going to buy from a company with good customer service. So who has been good to you guys?

i need some ideas for mouthing my amp.. i have a t30000bd and i kind wanna make it so everything is clean and you cant see my amp.. any ideas maybe

So I've called 6 shops in my area and none of them have a term lab or any sort of meter. I don't feel like shelling out $700+ for a term lab. Am I basically SOL?

I installed a Optima yellow top battery as my second battery. I previously had a 4 farad Cap in the trunk and the power wire was ran from the main battery to a 0 gauge splitter and 4 gauge was ran from the splitter to the Cap and the Sundown SAX1200d. I removed the Cap and added the battery in the same spot(I added a 150A fuse to the 4 gauge run from the splitter to the secondary battery). Should I run the 0 gauge wire coming from the main battery directly the second battery or is it fine the way it is? Again I have the batteries fused with 400A total between the 2.

Hey everyone, just bought a 96 honda civic ex coupe.. looking to upgrade my door speakers. this model vehicle has a component speaker system with a 6.5" midbass driver and 2" tweeters.. I'm wondering if these are hooked up to a crossover because I can't find one in the car.. And is it worth it to keep the crossovers (if there are any) and just upgrade the tweeters and midbass? and one more question is temporarily i have some pioneer 6.5 coaxials hooked up to where the midbass drivers would be, so far they sound good running off the headunit but should i not do that because im supposed to use a midbass driver?