General Audio

Hello. I have two Sundown SA-12 d4 and a saz1500d v.3 and im having a little problem with what gauge wire i should be using. right now i would like to run it at 1ohm but im probably going with the 4ohm hook up. I still have my stock battery and alt and im not trying to run them down anytime soon. some people have also told me i can run them at 1ohm since i dont run my system all the time but im still a little sketchy saz1500dv.3- 1ohm =1500watt rms 4ohm=530watt rms

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=11261 here is the OP from this link. I posted it in the Fi section but there is more traffic here so I reposted. I'm a couple days away from buying two SS XXX 15s. I intend to run two Autotek MM4000.1Ds to them in about 8 cubes at 30 Hz. This is in the back of an 04 TrailBlazer subs up port back. While I am certain this will get loud I am finding myself leaning towards the fully loaded BTL 15s. The Autoteks would be too much power for the BTLs but let's say you had the option. The SS XXX setup with the Autoteks which, at 3 ohms, would give each sub around 3000 watts, or two Fi BTL 15s in the same box in the same vehi…

i just bought 2 kicker l7 15"inch woofers they came in a groundshaker box sealed until i get a custom ported box.the amk that came with it is a koleaudio 2400 watt i know its not true watts it has 3 -30 amp fuses anyone know how many watts it might push?and also the subs are 2005 model are they almost as the 2009 kicker l7?thanks for any info...

Running four Dc audio 15 level subs off 4 sundown 1500 wired to 1 ohm.with four odessy 2250 and 210 amp altnators The problem i have is that the four subs come out a long way (not meant to do it in a funny style osaltion)When i get to about 152 db on music. I used to be able to bass race at 154.5 but now can't run that loud at all. I switched from running two crown bpx 2200.And made the box bigger to over 20 cubic's after displacment.it was 14 cubic foot after displacment. I am wondering is the problem cause the box is to big. box is tuned to 32 hz. Burps at 45hz and 155.1 with the 20 cubic foot and 154.6 with the 14cubic foot.

so i hit a bump today on the highway and my front speakers cut out and stopped working for like 5 seconds then they came back in. there all stock. an i have a sony head unit. im guessing a cable came loose in the back of the HU?

Well today sucked! This is some major league BULLCHIT! So my car started dying again. 3 times from coming home to get my mom to follow me to the shop and so within about 15mi of driving it died 3 times. Apparently the system is too much for my car and i can't get a high output alternator because my belt wont be able to handle it... so today the guy at the shop told my mom it'd be best to get rid of my system. now i really don't want to but i guess i should if i dont want my car to die on me constantly :/ . Im going to see if he thinks it can handle a 500-800 watt system because if it can't im gunna be uber pissed. What are some options for subs? I want either 2 12's or 1 …

So I have a Poineer 3200bt, Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" speakers/tweets on a Pioneer GM-9500F amp, 12" RD Alpha V.2 powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 (1500rms). I have 1/0 gauge from my battery then it runs into a distributor with two 4 gauge leads coming out to the amps. 12 gauge from my 9500F to the speakers/tweets. I had the cadence amp and sub in my previous car ('98 accord coupe) and my lights would dim a little with the volume high. In my 2011 mazda 3 I sedan. I have my volume at 24 and the lights dim on every bass note, and I was on the freeway last night got my rpm's at 3k and at 26 my lights were still dimming. The bass on the HU is set to -4 and I can turn my speakers (wit…

I wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem yet. Im working on a new build in a blazer everything is going well so far. Im just trying to get the last part of my electrical straight before I build the enclosure. I have a singer 350a alt and I decided to add a mechman vcm. Everything has been hooked up properly but Im not getting any power to the vcm. I checked over wires and made sure I was getting voltage and everything checks out fine. I happened to notice that the plug which hooks up to the alt has one red wire. The plug happens to have 4 prongs. I wanted to know if that could be the reason for things not working as they should.

So my headunit Pioneer DEH-3200UB only has 2 sets but I plan on using a 4 ch and a mono block amp and need to know is there a way I can expand it to my needs.

i was looking into buying a 15" Fi ssd then i had my eyes on the 18" but i just dont have the trunk space for the recommended 6-10cubes ported. is there anyone out there that has a box under specs and its good or should i just stick with the 15" or what. my trunk is only about 35 inches wheel well to wheel about 16" high and roughly 30 some inches deep....i would have to have the sub facing upwards....so not much room to work with...tell me what you guys think. BTW i know steve meades box for his 18"s is only 20 cubes for 4 18"s so that means he only has about 5 cubes per sub. idk gimme some info and feedback please.

Has anyone messed with the SHURiKEN SK-BT120 batteries? it says it 120 AH and 2600 cranking amps an AGM for 270.00 to good to be true? i know Sonic Electronix is good, seeing how i've dealed with them before. but the battery is what im worried about.

I have temporary bass right now that I paid about $60 bucks for, its a alpine type e in a pre-fab truck box that is about 1cuft and ported to a high frequency I am guessing, its running on my zx750 pretty strongly. Like expected there is absolutely no bottom end compared to my ssd 15 lol, I wanna order another type e for 60 and make my own box this week. Would these sound decent with about 2.5 cuft each and tuned to about 34 hz?

I was wondering if anyone has built a box for 3 sundown sa12s in a chrysler 300, and id u did or if I can get help on the box dimensions

alright i posted before and was told to hell with jl......so i did. Im greatly considering orion......now, i want speakers that are going to have great sound quality, but i NEED them to pound...competition is a possibility for the future. I just want a very nice system for starters and not have to do much adding on for the future.... Im talkin like a 3500 - 4g budget... again this is the setup..so far w/out the comps and subs Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD big 3 powermaster alty 400amp yellow top sax100.4 or 100.2 for the comps saz3000d i want something thats going to utilize that power comin from the saz3d

I have seen a lot lately people posting threads asking about their woofers SQ and woofers SPL in different enclosures. Also, using the same to compare different woofers like, " I don't wanna loose any SQ and but I want a lot of SPL." I'll start with SQ, most "SQ" woofers you will see are less then 1000w and are optimized for sealed enclosures to aid with a flat response. When most people talk about woofers and their SQ, they just want it to not sound like shit, not a flat response. It's takes 10% or more Total Harmonic Distortion to hear it. Most people wouldn't even notice it at that level. So next time you say you want to say you want SQ from your woofer, please reconsi…

Just got my hands on a SAZ-3000d and I need 1 12" sub that will work with the FC box I have 2.5 cubes at 32hz!

Does anyone have a dodge quadcab or have knowledge with the vehicle to tell me what i could fit behind the front seats. I don't have a problem lifting up the back seats because i don't plan on using it anyway. I wanna put 2 12's where the second row seating is typically. I know the second row seats lift up.

I'm trying to get a P800PRS (they are discontinued). And I found some shops that still has it in stock, but I have never bought from them before. shops: Speed & Sound Electronics Corp. Techronics Dominantcaraudio http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com The Specialists Inc. Anyone that have some experience with these shops?

my car has a 160 amp alt stock,and im wanting to run a saz2000,and 2 12 inch icons,im gonna do the big 3.i was wondering can anyone tell me what one single battery from the ssa store would be good for my electrical?its gonna be a daily driver

GONE!

Any of you heard of this company and if so whats your opinions on them????

I've been working with bass box pro 6 for probably the past 3 hours or so.... and i just cannot figure it out. I guess its just going to be said that i wont ever be able to know how to properly configure a box lol. For some reason i just cannot grasp the concept/doings of the box programs. So what i need from someone knowledge in the area of box making is, for someone to design a box for me. I havent taken the measurements as of yet, but when I do, i just want to know if someone will be able to help me lol. Here are my plans for the box. 2 15" RE XXX's. Ported. Once i get the measurements, hopefully we'll be able to figure out some numbers figured out on how big the box…

where can i get my wood cut, i dont have the equipment to do it, only a jigsaw, but suck at it

Ive gotten my box completed and my sub installed in my car for about a week now, its going to be a nice weekend out here in Michigan and would like to finish my box. What do I use to cover up all my seams/screws so I can paint over it. Also I want to have a nice black or charcoal look to the box but have it be textured like steve meades, any ideas what to use for it.

Is there a way, such as a calculation, or some type of rule of thumb to determine what alternator, as well as how many batteries it will take to run a certain system? Are there any guidelines to determine these values? For example, lets say i have a 5000 watt system, can i plug that into an equation, or some sort of outline to determine what size alternator i would need, and how many batteries i would need? or if i wanted an 8000watt system, same thing.... Is there a rule, like for every 1000watts you need a certain amount of amps within a battery? I am not trying to figure anything out for myself, I am just askin for basic knowledge to see if there is an easy way to d…