General Audio

if anyone wants to meet up our system is mobile. (doens't need to be plugged in lol) 30 bucks for a db test or 60 bucks for up to an hours worth of tuning.. please call, email, or text thanks... [email protected] or 570.877.1506

I know someone that doesn't know much about audio and box tuning and such but managed to build a pretty good sub system. He had 2 10's and built the box like this, his words, " I built a box, drilled a hole, and stuck the pipe in." It was a flared aero port 3 or 4 inches diameter, not sure. It was in a chevy tahoe and sounded good and got pretty loud too that lucky sob. Does anyone else know someone who got lucky?

Anyone on here extremely advanced in photoshop that can help me out making a graphic?! Thanks!

Alrite, I've been reading these forums daily, looking at build logs, and can now hopefully put together my system that has been long in process. It has been slowed down due to my original car which I planned to install the system in being totaled because of some careless lady who pulled out in front of me... whatever I'm sure you guys dont care much about my life problems heres the audio situation. My current system consists of... Fi SSD 15" Dual 2 -- 3.7 cu ft ported enclosure tuned to 33hz (built it my self, came out great =) ) Sundown SAE 1000D Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Not much yet... I know I still need the amplifier install kit, which I will be buying soon. This is goi…

I like to keep tweakin test tones and have a question about something- When analyzing the test tones i generate, using a pure sine wave, i get a 30db amplitude reading. Now, if i generate a square wave, i get 32db amplitude. So... in theory, the generated square wave will produce higher levels of spl at a lower power level... But.. does a generated square wave have the same effect as a forced square wave? meaning... will the sub(s) heat up quicker even with a non-clipped signal compared to a generated sine wave? I'm assuming a generated square wave will clip sooner than a sine wave due to the increase in amplitude... I'm speculating on whether it would be worth my time …

Well I know I'm no competitor or anything. Still a learner. I'm still here. Been checking SSA and CA.com occasionally. Been busy with school and working this summer. I'm sorta behind on all the audio gear. I still have my lil 94 GMC Sonoma. Its going to be my project. I just bought an 03 Jeep Liberty Sport. It'll be my daily until my truck is done. The GMC is gunna be my summer truck, but I'm going to do it up like I want to. I don't have my full license yet, but its coming. September 20th is when I'm eligible to get it. And I still got my Mach 5 SPL-12s. There still in the same place they've been since I bought them. Have had them for almost a year. Still no power has we…

I know most of the members don't like elemental designs due to the owner, but how is the sound deadening? Or better yet, liquid deadening in general? My car has a horrible rattle, and it's about time I've done something. Here's the link. http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=53 For now, I think it'll be good. I'm not doing anything super serious with my setup yet, so I think it'll be good enough for now, especially at the price. While your here, how do you feel about the subs? I'm thinking about buying one from someone on craigslist for $200 in a ported box tuned to 26hz. Not sure about the tuning, but the driver itself seems legit. It's …

I am thinking about buying my new Pioneer Premier DEH-800PRS and iPod adapter from www.wooferetc.com Total would be $475 shipped. I was wondering if anyone has been screwed over by them? And if so, how and what happened? If I don't buy it from there for $399, I would buy it from a local store for $479...... I would rather buy from wooferetc.com, as long as it's a legit site. They claim to be BBB, and a AAA rated site.

Ok, i hooked up a friends new amp, a 10001, to his q. it sounded really good for about a week then started making like a rattling noise and i cant figure out what it is. i have the settings on the amp to gain half and the crossover at 50. does anyone know why it might have a rattling noice. its not the box. im almost positive its the subwoofer.

Might be a ridiculous question but i'd rather be safe than sorry. Is it an alright idea to mount my amp directly on the top of my box. Never really see it so i figured i'd ask. Just to throw it out there it will be a Sundown SAZ-2000D on a box for a Fi BTL 15". Thanks.

since the ultimate installer is avoiding me, i need a new installer here in the pittsburgh or surrounding areas. must know how to cut wood to build sealed and ported boxes and mdf rings for speakers, running wires for systems and possibly fiberglassing. please tell them to e-mail me at [email protected] or to send me a pm here.

Ok, so about a week ago I got my final system installed, except for the amp. Now when we were playing with it and just playing some music the rattle wasn't too bad but I put a layer of Stinger Roadkill on it and it helped a bit. Fast foward to this evening. I was demoing for some friends and I haven't had bad rattle yet until now. My trunk lid is now slapping and it's getting ugly. My setup is sub up port back so basically this sub is firing right at the trunk lid. So on a good note, this sub is moving enough air and creating enough pressure to begin to damage my trunk. On the downside, it's damaging my trunk. Question: Would another layer of deadener help with this? Or…

I am going to do both bassrace and spl. Just wondering what would be some good sub that can handle 4k rms daily. Idk if there even is. I'm getting mike singers bass race box from his eclipse to put into mine. It's tuned to 35hz right now. Any ideas? I have $1000 limit. I have to sell my 15 btls first though.

hello i am requesting a design for a blowthrough. The hole for the connection to the cab hasn't been cutout yet. i have attached a photo of how my enclosure will be through the cab. i will be running 6 18" Fi SSDs stock. with about 6k watts. subs should be facing up but should also be covered. i want it to be low but loud. it wont be for burps just a loud ass daily driver here are the dimensions 49 1/2" wheel weld to wheel weld 77" front to back of bed 19" height this is how i want the port to enter the cab

I'm ordering comps for my front stage along with a amp, not sure what I should be looking at for quality though. If I put comps up front can I keep my 6.5 coax in the back and just run a 4 channel amp to the 6.5's and the fronts? Would that sound right? Trying to keep it under 250 for comps and amp

hi all i am going to be competing for the first time and was wondering what class i should run. i am going to using my fi x 12 in a 6th order bp which is 3.5 cubes a chamber and will be pushing 200w rms to it. also i have a kicker zx 1500 that i just aquired and was thinking of using it at 8 oms on the x so that should roughly be about 375wto 400w rms but was wondering if they would make me run a higher class since that amp can put out 1500w even though i would have it putting out around 400 since it would be at 8 ohms

O.k. i have a 4.25cft box net volume tune@35hz, with 49 Square inches of port. It used to have Ed 19ov.2 in it , but now i want to upgrade . Deciding between three subs Fi bl 18", Audioque Hdc3 18" or Pap WMD 18. The amp i'm using is eD Nine.1. So which sub would work best?

anyone knows where the hole in the firewall is? if so, will it fit 0 gauge cause i cant seem to find one...anyone knows something i dont?

When my subs are playing (not on full tilt) sometimes the volume just drops. The music volume stays the same, but the subwoofer volume drops. The amp should NOT be clipping. I set it up for a volume of 30 with the sub level at +6. My usual listening range is a 20-26 with the sub level at -6-0. The setup is two alpine type r 12"s in a 6th order bandpass powered by an old school Lightening Audio 1000D at one ohm. I have a 200 amp h.o alt with NO big three. I can tell you the headunit if you need it.

Can you believe i finally got to meter the MOAB today ;D I got in the lane and they had the 30sec crapp going on and had a wackass burned cd none of the tracks were labled and only jumped in increments of 5. > i did the sweep and by the time i found the track with the tone my time was up > we only got 1 run... Rippoff but i did manage to get a 149.8db @ 5oHz ON THE DASH.

I've notice WMD 18s on sale $175ea. I just wanna know i does it perform as far as spl/sq goes? any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

So last summer I was on an unknown mic at a local audio shop and hit 148.2 with my 15" Fi Q on 1500 watts. I knew that was way too high so I had always been curious what id get on the TL. Today I found out that number is a 142.26 in the dash with driver window down, and 140.xx sealed up. I dont think thats too bad considering what my sub has been through... First I blew it so i tore it apart, recoiled it, and patched the spiders Then the magnet cracked/shifted so I shimmed it and epoxied the hell out of it Then the cone blew apart, epoxied once again Ran off a clarion dpx11500 (1500 rms at 1 or 2 ohm) at 1 ohm with the gain about 1/3 up, peaked at 36hz in my 4 cubes …

a buddy of mine is doing a wall in a dakota with four of either 12s and each sub will be seing around 2 cubes without port and tuned to 30 hz with 350 watts rms to eahc sub. he listens to rap most of the time. also he's looking to be hitting some higher scores. jw which would perform better in this application. thanks

Just got my hands on a SAZ-3000d and I need 1 12" sub that will work with the FC box I have 2.5 cubes at 32hz!

So, i was driving down the road today with the subs playing, not quite at full tilt but pretty loud and all of a sudden a rattle starting coming from the box, and a lack of volume did as well. This is a bandpass so the front of the subs are not visible, but you can see the rear of the subs by looking through the aeroports. The rattle seems to come from the bottom of one of the port walls i can visibly see vibrating. This is not the first time the port has come loose but this is the first time there has been a lack of volume. These are two alpine type r 12"s off of an old school lightening audio 1000d. Signal is not clipped. I do have a 200amp alternator without a bi…