General Audio

my car has a 160 amp alt stock,and im wanting to run a saz2000,and 2 12 inch icons,im gonna do the big 3.i was wondering can anyone tell me what one single battery from the ssa store would be good for my electrical?its gonna be a daily driver

well i just got 4 brand new rockforad p2's d4 8's in a trade and i really have no use for them, so what do you think i should do with them heres some crappy pics of them

During my night shift last night noticed the Nakamichi PA-1500 was the same price as the Soundqubed Q1-1200D. Is the Nakamichi the same quality it is famous for? Are they at the same level quality wise as the Q1-1200D or even better ? I've read how awesome Nakamichi was in the day but having troubles finding up to date info on the quality of there products? Also anyone hear the SPW-1210 their 12' woofer ? Any good compared to say Fi Q12 or SSA ICON 12? How are their components ? Any information on Nakamichi would be appreciated as the prices seem to be very cheap atm and I'm thinking quality might have gone down as well. Their 4 channel amp any good too? They claim to be…

I have a Kole Audio KX1-5500D putting out 3200 rms at 1 ohm and a kinetic HC1800 battery. how big of alternator do i need?

Running four Dc audio 15 level subs off 4 sundown 1500 wired to 1 ohm.with four odessy 2250 and 210 amp altnators The problem i have is that the four subs come out a long way (not meant to do it in a funny style osaltion)When i get to about 152 db on music. I used to be able to bass race at 154.5 but now can't run that loud at all. I switched from running two crown bpx 2200.And made the box bigger to over 20 cubic's after displacment.it was 14 cubic foot after displacment. I am wondering is the problem cause the box is to big. box is tuned to 32 hz. Burps at 45hz and 155.1 with the 20 cubic foot and 154.6 with the 14cubic foot.

I had this posted in the Fi forums, but I stopped getting replies so I figured I'd post out here. I bought an Fi Q12 and a Cadence TXA1000D around the new year. I got it all installed about 1.5 weeks into January. Everything was playing great for a while, sounded awesome. Well last week I was out driving around and my sub started to cut out. It would play some notes and then it would stop. A few seconds later it would start back up, play a few, and then stop. The next day I started playing it again and it sounded fine for about five minutes and it started to do the same stuff. Now, it wont hit anything. Every once in a while it will hit, out of no where, just ran…

I have wanted to get a meter for a while now so I can play with diff box pos. etc... term labs are sooo pricey, do you guys know of any good meters for less. I think shizzon said he is using a Hyperdynamics or something like that....any input is welcome

http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?...resonator"

Is there a way, such as a calculation, or some type of rule of thumb to determine what alternator, as well as how many batteries it will take to run a certain system? Are there any guidelines to determine these values? For example, lets say i have a 5000 watt system, can i plug that into an equation, or some sort of outline to determine what size alternator i would need, and how many batteries i would need? or if i wanted an 8000watt system, same thing.... Is there a rule, like for every 1000watts you need a certain amount of amps within a battery? I am not trying to figure anything out for myself, I am just askin for basic knowledge to see if there is an easy way to d…

Okay so I have two D1 XCONs that were both purchased used. One of them reads .07-.08 on both coils, and the other reads 1.0-1.1 on both coils. Both subs sound fine when they are used alone, but once I wire them together it sounds way quieter, and seems like one is canceling the other out. Could this be because they are getting different amounts of power? I've been troubleshooting and am really getting frustrated. I've triple checked the wiring, I've swapped RCAs, amps, and HU pre outs. I finally decided to wire one in my 4.5 cube shared chamber enclosure to 2 ohms and bam the difference was night and day louder. I switched to the other sub and it was just as loud. Wire th…

I have heard many a system, and honestly...no system I have EVER heard sounds "bad" every system does sound different though. I have taken a TON of subs and probably gone through 12 boxes in my hatch. None of them sounded remotely bad. So, I have started to just ignore SQ, the only time I have heard a system that wasnt up to par, it was a box issue. I'll be making the ultimate test here soon. I will be doing a setup with a dB drive platinum 15, everyone I talk to says they have very low SQ. So, I'm going to throw 2000 daily to one in a good box, and SQ to a rest. -Alex

It's been said many times that it's not as useful to add more power, as to have a more efficient enclosure, or that a single woofer in a correctly designed enclosure is generally better off than two or more in less than adequate boxes; I took some measurements of my truck, and it looks like I have plenty of room for a pair of 18's. But will the difference between one and two woofers be worth the extra costs? I'm looking to get loud, and sound fairly good doing it, however I cannot afford high power woofers, especially until I can get larger alt in. My budget for woofers is <$400 each, but I have to determine what i'll be getting before I can make a choice for an amp. I…

well i finnally got my 2 12 ssd n saz1500 put in my impala. damn they hit hard as hell. thanx 2 ecro n every1 else that help me pick out my stuff. I AM A post pics n vids soon

im confused help me out?

Got a question about running power cables thru my 2011 Chevy Tahoe I have seen people run their cables either thru the firewall or under the truck using flexible conduit. Which is preferable? Or is that depending on the amount of runs you are doing. I am planning on 2 runs of both positive and negative from a D3400 under the hood to a D3100 in the rear running a Crescendo BC5500D for 2 ZCON 15’s. If it is just a matter of preference then my question is answered, but if there are other issues to consider then any input would be greatly appreciated. I won’t start my build for about another month or so (in Afghanistan) so I have just been pouring over the net and this forum …

I'm trying to get a P800PRS (they are discontinued). And I found some shops that still has it in stock, but I have never bought from them before. shops: Speed & Sound Electronics Corp. Techronics Dominantcaraudio http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com The Specialists Inc. Anyone that have some experience with these shops?

I have an XCON 15D2 and a DC Power 180 amp alternator on its way to my house .....and Argent Audio is building me a 4.0 cubic enclosure with a tuned 32hz flared port Hmmmmm...... Sundown SAZ-2500D or Stetsom V 2K5E 1 ohm? 2500 watts should give me a little bit of headroom After I get the low end taken care of I will focus on the mids/highs. Build log coming soon. Oh yeah....going in a Hyundai Elantra

I have a Pioneer DEH-P3900MP and I gave it to my bro who installed it in his 05 Hyundai Sonota and when he was wiring it up he use pliers to cut all the cables off the stock wiring harness and he said that all the wires touched for a second when he cut all the wires so it made a spark, but after he got it all wired up it was working. He then screwed it in and put everything back together and the HU wouldn't play any sounds even though it was powered on and the volume was all the way up. He replaced the Audio and Clock fuses with new ones and there is still no sound. What could be the problem for why there is no sound?

Chyea! so i wanna look into a nice audio set up for my car but im not 100% sure on what exactly to look for or how it all works really. So im looking to see if anyone can explain or direct me to a website or something that can explain how car audio works. preferably starting from the basics. Something for example would be this: T2-250.1: Continuous Power @ 14.4 V: 175W x 1 @ 4 ohms 250W x 1 @ 2 ohms what does it mean when it says 175w x 1 @ 4 ohms? (Are ohms not resistance and why is there more on something with less watts?) thanks for any help.

I am looking into purchasing a 15" DC level 4 XL or AA Mayhem. If I choose the DC, I have two wiring options. I have a 2400 watt amp at 1 ohm and 1700 at 2 ohms. How much difference does wiring a sub at 2 ohms make vs wiring it at 1 ohm? Would 1700 watts at 2 ohms be enough to get the DC going or should I just stick to 1 ohm?

DD 3515 Supercharged on an M2b. Im thinking of 4.25 after displacements tuned to 36 hz. This will be a comp vehicle and a decent demo car. Obviously nothing spectacular, i compete in smaller classes. Would like it to still play decent on music. I listen to everything country, rap, rock, 80's-90's metal. Do you guys think 4.25 net to 36hz will be a good combo, ive never played with a 15" before.

OK as some know i got a 2000 maxima i just got rid of one hu and got another and still haveing whing noise issues so its time to make away with the whole boss system and add a amp to my mids and highs.Hopefully this will stop the noise.My car had gotten broken in to and i they got me good ( happend 2 days ago) here are some pics of my old set up. front batt Back Batt 2 15's american bass now to redo it all im thinking about gettin rid of those ugly super start batt and adding 2 kinetik just the issue im having is which one? and as far as subs go? there are no name brand out here they got stuff like lanzar and pyle :| so im stuck on wat subs to use?

im looking at replaceing my stock speakers with a set of CADENCE SOUND SYSTEMS CWM 6 KIT COMPONENT SPEAKER SYSTEM in the front and a set of Cadence Cadence Flash 5.25" 2-way Speakers for the rear the problem is i never heard them or of the name before are they any good? or should i shop around for some kappa's i want a good sound inside the car.

Car Audio System Planning What is system planning? It's the process that keeps you from making costly mistakes and ending up with equipment you don't want or can't use. This is what keeps new people from staying in the audio hobby wasting money that they do not have. Here's system planning for most new car audio shoppers. "My friend just got two fifteens for his car and it booms! I just got the same ones he bought but I bought the new million watt amplifier I saw in the magazines. I also bought a new high end head unit but I want to keep my factory speakers because I don't want to spend too much money." Everything sounds OK until you realize that he drives a Mazda Miata …