General Audio

Hey guys i have a 225 amp Excessive Amperage alt, 2 runs of 0 gauge and 4 yellowtops. My voltage never reaches higher than 13.6 and idle at like 13.4 with the music turned down. What could be my issue? also im running 6k rms and dom at iraggi said he can build me a bracket to run dual alts. I would throw my stock alt back in there maybe add one more yellow top and do one more run of wiring. Would this help me out alot? Or do you think if if fix my other issues i should be ok, thanks

I've been trying to explain to this guy on EvolutionM.Net that there is no such thing as a break in period for amplifiers. He says the transistor crystal's chemical composition changes slightly since they are made and don't see power until the consumer buys it(I assumed that from a comment or 2 he made). I realized I don't have much factual proof in my handds for my arguement. Are there any tests/ studied someone could point me to to further my side? Here's the thread(they have a 5=day wait for registration so don't bother trying to quickly jump in) http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=142921

Why does enclosure plans use dimensions for builds over ft. Measurements ? ie. displacement vs. total internal area ?

Does any one here own a dd9515g that is 2 ohm? f so how do you wire it down to 1 ohm? I know you have to connect both positives and bot negatives. But this thing doesnt say which is positive and which is negative. And the way it connects is weird. Pictures of to wire it down to 1 ohm would be great if anyone has any. It will be powered by a Exile 2400.1 amp BTW. Does anyone know wether or not this amp is any good???

Which is the better motor, a 9515f or a FI BTL. just motor not including soft parts, Daily music LSQ

I recently purchased a 2001 Buick lesabre and want to put a system in it. First things first I need to get a decent head unit in there, tape player isn't gonna cut it lol. But I want to make sure it's done right, I want to keep my steering wheel controls and I was told I'll need something to either bypass the stock amp or integrate it. I've researched it a little but I don't know that I'll get it right still so I came here for help. Is there anyone that has installed a after market headunit in one of these cars? What exactly do I need so that everything will be functional and done correctly?

I'm looking to upgrade my electrical in my RSX.. I have a khc1400 up front and khc2000 in the rear and don't have space for anymore batteries!! I want to ge a good 270amp alternator, will this be wise to do with only one battery in the rear? Rite now I gotta zx2500 on a DD 9518g.. Looking to upgrade to a bigger amp maybe a VFL 500.1 (all daily listening..no competition)

I've noticed for some time now that it's complicated to figure out the power for a three sub setup. If you have three 4 ohm DVC subs wired together in series (in think thats right) you get a 2.67 overall ohmage. Now if you have a KX600.1 for 600@2ohms, or perhaps a DX700 for 700@2ohms; how would you figure out how much power the amp would put out at 2.67 ohms? Looking into possibly 3-10" compvrs with that setup. Also, I was looking into a two sub setup with the Brahma 10. I'm thinking maybe a bpx1100.1 to power that setup. This one is more expensive, but alot louder and more SQ. After all that 29mm one way linear xmax sure isnt dissapointing! Both setups would be i…

has anyone every ordered anything from this website? they have some pretty good deals and im just trying to make sure there a credible website before i make a purchase

I'm looking into getting an 8 ohm woofer and a tweeter for each of my stock locations. The amp i have is rated for 50x4 @4 ohms and has a bridged rating of 160x2 @4 ohms. Question is, would it be ok to bridge each side (1 woofer and 1 tweeter) @4 ohms, provided that i find a decent 8 ohm tweeter? Or am i just better off running each speaker to it's own channel? I'm not too familiar with this stuff, so excuse me if i am completely missing something.

Attention guys who work at shops: on a Pioneer AVIC-S1 portable G.P.S., how do you go about in upgrading the maps?

i found this on parts-express, looks neat. anyone have any info on them? would be much appreciated. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=299-744 Thanks, -Chris

Probably won't happen till I'm settled into school, but since I get such good accommodation thru pioneer and kicker at work I'm thinking.... Kicker sx1250.1 kicker sx700.4 and the sxrc remote those two are for sure... now the next part is iffy... I either wanna do 4 l7 8"s(just to have something different) or I'm going to do 2 l7 12"s... then again I get really good deals on infinity's high end woofers too... as for a headunit probably a p8mp or p770mp. think i would be under powering the 8"s to much with the 1250.1?

Ive currently got a single 0 gauge wire from front to back batteries, Will adding another run of 0 gauge increase or help anything? Im thinking of getting another yellowtop . Ive currently got 2 yellowtops in the back. the big one and smaller one

Ok, so as the description describes... I've never built a car system before, and I don't know whats good and whats not. I do have some experience with home audio, so I'm not completely clueless when it comes to the technical. I ask your assistance in helping me choose audio components that sound pretty good, and are mid-range in price. System will probably be built into a 2nd Gen Scion xB. I'm quite the SPL lover, I get a crazy grin when the mirrors start vibrating. SQ isn't so much important to me, but I want to be able to hear the words, just a little at least. The xB has a 8 1/32" deep, double din factory headunit. The front and rear speakers are both 6 1/2". Giv…

Are there any good front speakers that can be run off of my head unit or do i have to get an amp.

i saw in a thread on another forum that if you have a subwoofers in a convertible you will lose 85% of your sound with the top down..how true is that? and will it help if the subs is facing towards the cabin

Hey, I have used the search on the forum trying to find topics discussing the use of a DMM to set your amplifier. I am hoping you guys can direct me better than a search engine. thanks.

I am in the process of putting together a system for my crossfire. I went to a local car audio store today, and looked at a couple of things. A ported box for one 12, $80. 1 JL12w6, right under $400. And a JL HD750/1 amp $750. Do these prices seem right? I haven't looked at stero stuff lately. Anybody running this setup? What should I expect out of this setup? I am used to 2 hollywood 12's with green foam surround(circa 1995) and a bazooka 700w amp. It seems like alot of money, but I want to do it right the first time. I am looking at this setup due to space restrictions, and custom enclosures aren't in the budget right now. Thanks, chris

Well I've officially had it with my system, and as soon as I get out of school I will be ripping my car apart and replacing everything but my HU and Amp (Alpine 7995, SS Ref 604). I currently have 0 gauge in my car, and it is way overkill (left over from a hardcore install). My car alt died yesterday, so I'll have a brand new one in tommorow and don't feel like killing it so this install will be very low power. I will drop to 4ga because I don't need anymore than that. Rip out my currently half-assed diy comp setup (Alpine tweet, infinity mid and xover) and replace it most likely with some CDT Ef's. My B212 is next to go basically because i'm sick of the space its taking …

Hitting up lowes and was needing to know

I'm going to be in the market for a new sub soon, I have a 18" bl rite now, but it is time for a change. I have a sundown saz 1500d, and pioneer avhp5000dvd. Im about to buy some kinetic 1800s and anew front stage. It is all in a 2000 GMC Jimmy..... But ihave narrowed it down to 4 subs. NS 18, rl-P 18, XCON 18, or a BTL 18 . I want a decent ground pounder. Since I only have about 1500 watts that sorta cancels out the BTL.I wasn't really wanting another Fi that much anyway because since I got mine it seems like everyone around here has one and I like to be DIFFERENT...... It will be in 7-10 cubes @ 28-32hz …

Okay, I drive a 1981 Ford Crown Vic, and I have a huge trunk. I am wanting to upgrade my Digital Designs 2515a to something a bit louder. I have 1200 RMS @ 2 ohms I can give one of these b!tches. It will go in a big a$$ ported box, size is not an issue. I love my Digital Designs 2515A, it is sexy and pretty loud, I am just wanting something a bit better now. Right now my DD2515a is in 4.26 cubic ft. [Tuned to 36 hz 65.875 Square Inches port Will be powered by two Directed 750d Strapped [1200 @ 2 ohm] I may upgrade soon, I am wondering how much would be a fair price to sell these for on eBay, one is in kind of rough physical shape though. I am thinking something ar…

My setup for the next season will include: 2 Kicker zx 2500.1 amplifiers wired @ 2 ohm each 2 AudioQue HDC3 12s, d1 vcs Northstar NSB 90 in stock location. 200 amp Alternator, rebuilt intown. I have a box design that I got directly from Steven Sears, whom is the Team Captain of Team High X-cursion. He told me he had someone on his team with 3 10s hitting in the 150s the TL in a Grand Am, and yes I have a Grand Am. He is very knowledgable on trunk vehicles. I plan to only use both kicker amplifiers during shows, and one for daily on a 4 ohm load. I will be selling my 2 audioque sd8s, and when my American Bass 120.1 gets back from being serviced it will be for sale as well…

I've noticed that all of the high power subs are DVC. I was just wondering why none of them are SVC.