General Audio

so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever. BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote) I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH low…

I have wanted to get a meter for a while now so I can play with diff box pos. etc... term labs are sooo pricey, do you guys know of any good meters for less. I think shizzon said he is using a Hyperdynamics or something like that....any input is welcome

I have been out of car audio for about 10 years and im trying to figure out what equipment is still hitting hard and whats new lol. Ok Im putting a system in a 07 Nissan Versa (small 4 door Hatch) and need some help. Im looking for a nice SQ system that can get a little loud also, I do not plan on any SPL competition. I need some recommendations on the list below that are undecided. Also any input on the equipment I already own. Are the Polks any good, Lanzars any good?... I listen to all types of music but metal (Disturbed, Rammstein, Metallica) is what I normally listen to, I also listen to rap. Yeah Im a mess lol. So what do you think I should get? Lets say I have a b…

Does a box have a certain amount of air space behind it or does it not matter as long as it fits?

I just ordered (2) FI SSD and I'm wondering how big I should go on the box. I want to get the most I can out of the subs. They will be powered by my sundown SAZ 2500d. The biggest dimensions I would like to go are: 44w x 36d x 25h. The 36d gives me about 7 inches from the hatch door. The FI website calls for 3-4 cubes a piece at 33 hz. How big do you think I should go? What tuning frequency? Any help is appreciated.

so upcoming in march, i have a build scheduled. my brother will be helping me with the carpentry aspects, i am doing rest of install from what i gathered in the other thread before it was closed, is that my buddy should go with a BL 18 for his 66' impala. already planning on double mids and highs, mids are most likely gonna be mach5 mli's, and tweets are undecided. who is running a BL18? what specs are the box, tuning, volume, etc. any help would be appreciated. i would like to keep this topic on a positive note, no dissing or putting down, i am sure denim is tired of closing threads.

I have a friend with the truck above, he wants to keep the factory h/u and look. My 1st thought was a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1 to handle that duty, buts it kind of an expensive route to take unless I pick it up off ebay or a similar place. Sub wise we're going with the Soundsplinter RL-i 8 either dual 4 or single 4, dependent on amp choice he makes. Planning on ported, but what size box/port area/vent size do you recommend?? Amplifier choices so far are as follows, JBL GTO 601.1, Alpine MRP-M500, Alpine PDX-1.600, Kicker ZX500.1, Rockford Fosgate R500-1, and any others you can recommend, any suggestions on anything I've stated so far would greatly be appreciated. Subwoof…

How Much Better Are The nightshades Vs The BTL's ? Are They Worth The upgrade ? I Am Going To be Running 2 SAZ 3000D Amps To Them. Thanx

Ok here is something I came to. People buy the most exspensive batteries and high output alternators, and still experience voltage drop at 11 volts and steady decline. What do most people do to solve voltage drop.

anyone know anything about this? i was readint his description of kicker speks and seen it http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-08-KICKER-KS502-5-...t=1218746599984 never even heard of it before. any ideas on what it does to help?

hey guys i have a question about a trickle charger. well i bout a 1.5amp charger so i could help maintain my batts being that i have a honda civic and running 2 batts with only a 90amp alt(waiting for EA to build mine) i had figured it would be a good investment to buy a trickle charger and use it a week or so to help maintain my batteries charge. right now it's a stock honda battery up front(3yrs old and abused to all hell) and my hc2400 in the trunk. well i have noticed a HUGE improvement on voltage being stabkle since the kinetik was put in. so being that honda have chit for charging systems and are built to be effecient in most ways i wanted to put a charger on the ba…

a friend of a friend of mine has a 2006 mazda 3 sport with a factory HU and really wants to have an aux plug in and keep the factory unit. is there any way to do it?

I'd just like to let everyone know here on the ssa forums that I appreciate all of your help and knowlegdge and actually sharing your knowledge. You have no idea how much help ALL of you are.you help people not waste money and try to help us do things right the first time and definitely make quality products.. SSA top notch period. Canf get any better period. Sorry a little tipsy and txting on phone so sorry if you cant understand well and if i look stupid... Oh well lol.

^^^ teh pr0n straight from the factory

Hi, i new to the forums and would for my first post to ask something that even after being around car stereo often i still dont understand.... which is Ohms... say i have a subwoofer that i run at 2ohms with a amp that can run 1000 watts at 2ohms... then i have the same subwoofer that i am running at 1ohm and a amp with 1000 watts running at 1ohm... just the change in ohm with no change to either the sub or amp will the sound be any different or would it be the same? any input helps thanks in advance!

I have been doing some research, and have come up with absolutely nothing. Where could i buy one of these? here is a link to Audiopulse's page: http://www.audiopulse.com/products/components/rmb TC sounds FTW!!!!

The JL 8W1V2's are 4-ohm, and rated at 150w according to JL's site. The 125.2 is rated at ... 125 x 2 RMS @ 4 ohm. I think a 125.2 would be sufficient for a pair, but wanted to ask before buying incase someone knows of a reason why this is not a good idea. Thanks!

So I get everything put together today and almost ready to go, but the cutouts on the box are too small for my xcon 10's. So I'm wondering the best way to remedy this problem.I'm trying to keep it as clean and as simple as possible. Thanks for the help.

I have a JL 450/4 that was quite a good amp, but the other day two channels burned up and now only two work. I'm not sure if I should run with this amp again or try something different and possibly better. I was thinking of putting in a single FI Q 12" in a ported box with a Sundown SAE-1000D. I've never used their amps before, but they seem to be well respected. My setup currently is as follows: HU: Alpine IVA-W200 Front: Focal Utopia 6.5" (older model) Rear: Focal 690 CA1 (6x9) I looked at the Sundown 100.4, but I'm not so sure the output will be enough. The JL put out more and the speakers handled it fine and sounded good. I'm just looking for a possible alternat…

Sound advice and Tweeter are going out of business. That sucks No more high end audio places here that sucks.

OK, I know I'm impatient, and I'm not saying SSA is taking too long, I'd rather wait for something that is going to be this awesome versus them rushing and giving me something that might fall apart. But, I was just curious the average time people waited to get their sub. 21+ days could mean 2 months for all I know. I'm trying to keep myself busy right now getting wires pulled and the box built, and hopefully time will pass faster. I'm just hoping the 14 days i've waited so far means I'm half way done:)

I got my orion 2500d back from the stereo doc. last night and wired up one of my subs to the amp @ 4 ohms. didn't play much with the eq. and junk, just set it at about 80Hz, and gain about 3/4. My kinetik 2400 has not got here yet, so its only drawing from the yellow top under the hood at the moment, but it seems to do fine with the load boss 230A alt., at all but full volume, then I need to step on the gas a little to keep the volts up around 12. the box is a "team toxic bass/ hexi-base" horn enclosure tuned to about 45Hz. guys were bored at the shop so I stopped in to test out the single 15" 144.7 db thats on music, a random song.... not bad huh? sounds amazingly clean …

Well I've officially had it with my system, and as soon as I get out of school I will be ripping my car apart and replacing everything but my HU and Amp (Alpine 7995, SS Ref 604). I currently have 0 gauge in my car, and it is way overkill (left over from a hardcore install). My car alt died yesterday, so I'll have a brand new one in tommorow and don't feel like killing it so this install will be very low power. I will drop to 4ga because I don't need anymore than that. Rip out my currently half-assed diy comp setup (Alpine tweet, infinity mid and xover) and replace it most likely with some CDT Ef's. My B212 is next to go basically because i'm sick of the space its taking …

So can i run a Kinetik battery in the back of my car wiht no other upgrade? I mean i dont need an isolator or anything like that? Back in the day i had a stinger gell in the front and one in the back and had to run an isolator and was a pain in the ass. any help would be aprreciated, i got a civic with a tiny ass alt and i have a cap but i heard they dont help any and was wondering about running one of these batts in the back, thanks civicman07

I am about to redo all my inside speakers, so I will be needing 2 sets of 6x9s, and 1 set of tweeters. Im looking for the best all around, SQ, midbass, all of that and they will be on an amp. im look to do this all for 500. What do you all recommend i get??