SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I started to build a new enclosure today. Gross interior is 12.5 X 53.5 X 7.5 bottom and 3.5 top, so 2.5 cubic feet gross. I am recessing the amp and the panel is 22.5 X 13.5 X .75 sunk 1.5 into the enclosure. There are (4) 1 X 2 X 55 and (4) 1 X 2 X 12.5 to account for and the displacement of the sub (RL-P) I think is .18. I want to tune this thing as low as possible (28-32 Hz) so dual 3" ports probably. How long do I make them?

Any thing I should know or be wary of? 5 1/2" blade? 7 1/2"? Corded? Cordless?

This is it, the last event of the year for Northern Music & Video and the 2nd of 3 stops in the "LOUDEST OF NY" events where the winner will be crowned in Oswego on October 2nd at the last Ultimate Edge show. Here is all of the event info: Northern Music & Video's Thunder in the Park *No SQ will be offered. IdbL only. *Event Location-Colonial Village Fun Park 578 SH 11B Potsdam, NY 13676. *Registration begins at 10am, show begins at NOON! *Registration fee-$15.00. *Offered classes:Stock 1-160, Stock 161-260, Stock 261+, Advanced 1-260NW, Advanced 261-360, Advanced 361+. *1st, 2nd, and 3rd place trophies for all offered classes. *Many giveaways!!!! *Be sure to ge…

im 'this' close to putting my rl-p back into i.b. config-the sound was just to my likeing- but it will mean sealing up the trunk (fold down seats-rear shelf) properly. im thinking fibre glass and mdf and bondo and expanding foam? any sujjestions before i make mistakes?

Who will be competing next year and in what organization and class. I will be competing in SLAP in the stock 0-160 class

alright ive came to the conclusion that with school and measly allowance i dont have the time or money to get into the really competitive comps, but i remeber hearing that some compitions have std size truck divisions if thats true how is that division broken up? if there is such a division im going to try and be running 2 SS rl-i8 around 800 watts rms (if youve seen my newb sign in you know why i have to try). do comps break down divisions by power number of speakers size of speakers....thanks sorry according to my eng4 teacher i have horrible paragraph structure and sentence flowing skills

Just like the title says, what is the best way to splice a wire? Solder? If so what kind? How about some sort of crimp thingamabob?

I'm somewhat new to using WINISD and I was wondering why there is no SPL increase when a larger area port is used. Although I understand that if the enclosures are tuned to the same frequency their relative resistance is the same but it just seems like a larger port would yeild more spl (in the same fashion horns get really loud). Can anyone clear this up for me. I'm not asking about beligerently small port areas but lets say the diff between a 20sq. inch port and a 50. Same sub, box, tuning etc. Your answer doesn't need to include stuff I have already read in the thread about vortexes and air resistance. (but then again perhaps I missed something) Thanks, b

Ok ppl I will be making a ported box for my subs, my external dimme. are 38" wide by 14" height and 17" in depth,, My question is, I will like to tune it to 35hz or a bit lower are these dimme ok ? my subs are HX2 12 "punch series dvc 4 ohms will this be ok ??? in order to be on the right step...... ok at this time I'm using bass box pro 6, I'm trying to get the hang out of it ok anybody correct me if I'm wrong ,vent side will be 12.5 height + 12.25 long and 2 inch from side wall (26.75 sq inch port) tuned to almost 35 ........

i can't find it anywhere, where do you all buy your polyfill?

Way late but as promised here are a few pics, sorry it took so long and even if you don't know it all you guys on the forum have helped me in some way or another. The idea was to obviously keep a sub inside the car (like my 8's that were in there before) those of you who know BMW trunks understand why. Keeping it stealth was a main focus hence the flat black paint it really blends it into the car. Any and all comments are welcome, keep in mind I designed it to be way stiff, sound great, and astetics came in last. I estimate that it is around 1.2 net after polyfill. I set it on top of my 1.5 cu ft net box and it was fairly close. Later, b

I have really thinking about trying to run surround sound into my car but don't want to spend very much I want to keep my active 3way system I should be wiring this week, cross-overed in my deck I like my alpine 7998. What options do I have no cheap junk like pyle please

Pods are done... they didn't turn out to bad, here is the pics.... ohh yah they sound a ton better http://www.project04.net/gallery/main.php/.../pods%20001.jpg http://www.project04.net/gallery/main.php/.../pods%20002.jpg http://www.project04.net/gallery/main.php/.../pods%20003.jpg http://www.project04.net/gallery/main.php/.../pods%20004.jpg

i've got a sealed box for my rl-p's. its built into the well of my car and is a major, major pain in the ass to take out of the car, or i would just pull it out and feel for air moving at the joints. when i push one of the speakers in, the other will push out, and very, very slowly settle back. is this normal or does that mean there is a leak somewhere?

I saw this done with on RL-p by some one on here. Basically my only motivation to even think of doing this is because I have a Rear Strut-tower Bar that kind of divides the trunk (99 civic cp). So any box I put in is going to either be really small or really convoluted.. and I don't want to do that.. unless I have too. So what are your thoughts? Another idea is to attach it to the seat back and then build a 1.0-1.7cf sealed box around it.

hey guys...just wondering what u guys would recommend to use or have used to keep your box from sliding around? i have a trunk car so mine just moves all over the place...? velcro? l-shaped metal corner brackets? open to ideas...

Ok... In the process of building a new sub enclosure, fibreglass of course. And I am porting it (RL-p 12). Now, I do not want to use a slot port, what options do I have for nice flared ports? What dia should I go with, is 4" large enough? I saw a couple options on partsexpress, wondering if it is possible to use normal plumbing PVC instead of the supplied stuff so that I can get lengths longer than say 17"? I'll try to get pics up on the build, but, me being digicam poor, may not be able to get any up until it is completed (or I go through a complete film on the old-fashioned cam-era).

i just started building my first mdf box. im using 2 1/2 inch drywall screws and the proper drill bit. everytime i try to put them in, i split the wood. are these screws to long? not drilling fast enough or what? done it 4 times so far, and i dont want to keep wasting wood.

this box im making for my ta is a PITA. having to make all sorts of corners and angles to utilize every inch of space in my well. coming along good so far, i've got the bottom half done, and im coming to where it angles and comes to the top of the box. how do i go about screwing in the angle? do i just countersink it further in on the outside of the box, so it doesnt poke out under the carpet, and put the screw in at the same angle as the wood?

the 4 ft will be below the windows, and the 6 will be above the windows. the 6 can be plugged to ~7ft @ ~32-34Hz w/ ~ 75^2 port. the other one i haven't sat down to figure it out yet... i think i wanna go under the window if i do decide to compete, cause i don't know how well i'd do in the higer class what you guys think?

Just checking pricing on various different places. What places do you guys use for your resin/matte/cloth?

i currently built my first box ever...and it came out pretty good...there are some minor gaps...which i believe are due to warped boards because all cuts were made by me on a table saw...but back to the point...i siliconed the crap out of the inside and silicone into the port (around the port pieces and one of the other corners) will that change anything such as tuning? or increase the liklihood of port noise etc?

144.3 in the middle of hte dash on the AC and i forgot to turn my bass knob all the way up, it was set to 3/4 it was on track 19...whic his 38Hz...wow. [email protected] also, the both doors and windows where closed, which isnt MECA style. my nuts where vibrating agianst the seat and my nose tickled really bad. so windows open and mic on the floor and bass knob al lthe way...145 on the AC shoundnt be a problem. and it was a new mic, or so says the owner, so it was still a little stiff, the highest hit on it so far was 149.5 and he geussed mine to be 140dB and hte pansy guy that sat i nthe passenger seat started plugging his ears at 141dB...i tried to talk to him and a…

Okay, sorry I can't upload pics of my fiberglass project right now (I'll try later) but I had a question. The situation -didn't use enough hardner on the fleece and it was still gooey when I came back 24 hrs later. -I tried just smearing plain hardner on the sticky resin and that seemed to work okay -then I made my next batch of resin pretty hot (meaning lots of hardner) and layed two layers of 1.5oz. Now the fiberglass is as stiff as normal and when I stick my hand in the box and move it around I don't get anything wet or sticky, but its still smells like resin really bad (its been dry for 20 hrs) The questions: "how long does resin continue to smell." "Does a complet…

The dam thing didnt fit again, lol, but we took it apart and put it in seperate. The subs definitely move alot lot more, only thing is its louder but only in the trunk still , and now its flexing the side panels and trunk is now rediculous. i wish i still had my friends camera.. I'm hoping if i can stop the flexing the sound will go into the car instead of rattling out. ANy thought.s.. BTW the box i'm pretty sure isnt done right, but oh well for now