SPL & SQ / Fabrication

ok, i did a 143.9 w/ my 2 15's. and i'm wanting to redo the box to try for louder. i'm putting about 750-800 to them a piece. do you think i could get 1 15 w/ 1600w louder than the 2? or would i be better off sticking w/ the 2?

i'm thinking about making a box for my trans am to these specs, but i dont know if its going to be big enough for my rl-p's. i know it should be simple, but i've tried for hours and can't figure this out for myself. could someone please tell me how many cubic feet per side i'm going to get out of this box if i build it? i would REALLY appreciate it. http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php...threadid=306257

Is it possible to wire in multiple computer case ball bearing fans in my car? Is it a matter of taking the black wire and grounding it, but the red power wire, can i just wire it to my distribution block? How will i deal with the voltage? Thinking about mounting amps in a long thin enclosure with plexiglass top and have the fans suck in air on the right side and have the fans suck out air on the right side for ventilation. Maybe ill throw in some neon lights to make it look good. Is this just a pipe dream or can it be done? Any help would be appreciated. TIA

im getting ready to build a sealed for for an 87 trans am, for 2 soundsplitter rl-p 12's. i think i'm going to have to use the entire well to get over 1 cubic foot per speaker, but i'm not sure exactly what im going to be working with, and this will be my first custom box. any tips, hints, blueprints, pictures, any kind of help anyone with a third generation f-body can give me? any thoughts on ideal air specs for running about 700 watts to each sub? i want to use 2 separate chambers right? thanks, Shaun

went to a db drag tonite and i took first place. super street 1-2. hit a 143.9 legal on the new TL

not...pics coming soon, as soon as the bleeding stops... Well i got my MDF...while hauling it into the garade because it was starting to rain i tripped on my Floor jack, sliced my foot pretty deep, and got traped under a 50lb sheet of MDF.... well needless to say it was funny to me, untill i realized how bad my foot was bleading... 2paper Towels and a gauze pad later 2 more gauze pads later and a small bandaid and 2 hot pink bandaids later.... well once the bleeding stops completely (its starting to seep fomr under the bandaids...i hope i dont need stiches) and i finialize my enclosure plans (ive gone with my original idea, dual upfiring ports...screw it...) ill start …

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/audiop...ples/cables.htm

I am in need of a site or location to get OEM fabric. Not having any luck with Yahoo or google. I not only need the same fabric my seats are made of but I need quite a large bit of OEM vinal also. The local dealership here wanted too much, nad I had to order in bulk on top of that. 2002 Chevy Silverado Tan interior Any help would be appritiated.

You can see what Josh (funny guy ) drew up, and then you can see how I tried to tie it all together so all I need to do is lay out the components just like a picture. I used circles and boxes to save time I think the only thing I am unsure of are the woofer -'s and the mid +'s (keep the reversed polarity + (2x) driver in the tower) ... I don't know where I'm supposed to tie them into the neg path - don't know if I have it close to being correct or not, as I just threw them in there. I could always move them right to the main neg lead coming from the binding post if it makes a difference.

I am planning on designing a box for my rli-8s I am getting and I am trying to figure out a way to latch down the box in 2 places. I want the box to sit in the well for daily driving and I want it to sit up top when I take the t-tops off. I want to design something like the back seats on the nissan quests. There is a compartment where it hinges down into to stow the seats. I am thinking about going to the junkyard and looking around for some hinges and latches that I could use. Does anyone have any ideas? I can draw it up in paint if yall want. Thanks guys

Hey, I was wondering what the biggest box anyone has put in a WRX sedan through the trunk. I have a XXX 15 and I am having trouble getting big enough dimensions for a ported box to house the XXX. If anyone can help let me know. Thanks, Chief

I am looking for anyone in NorCal who might have a mic and whatever software needed for EQing my car that would like to help me out. or if you know of any local shops that are good about doing this sort of stuff cheap/free, that would be cool.

Can anyone help me design a ported box for 2 RE 8's? Needs to be 1 cube, around 32 hertz... I just don't know how to figure out the Port Lenth (want a slot port), the external demensions (with port displacement), and so on... Any help would be great... Oh, it's not vehicele specific, just your basic retangular box... -BW

Just put my old Alpine 9831 back in, when i turn the ignition over I get the loudest pop ive ever heard, all door speakers and sub real loud. Im thinking its the ground on the HU but im not sure. The wireharness for this HU is kind of ghetto, I got it off of ebay and there was no remote wire, so im pulling of the switched wire. Heading out to ground it better, what do you guys think it could be? Ive had the HU hooked up in the car before but never with an amp. the internal amp on hte HU is blown FYI, not that it matters much.

Okay this first pic is the side view. This is in my trunk and it will be set into my wheel well but will also go about 4-5 inchs above that level. My first question is; would firing my woofer into the back of my seats pose any significant problem or reduction in output? Also, can I place my port outside of the box extending into the cabin or would this potentially pose a problem?

i'm redoing them. the tweet is gonna be in them this time and i'm molding them to the actual kick panel from the car.... one question though...should i seal of the backside of the tweeter hole? or just leave it like that?

Ok i'll prolly do this some time this week or next week. But basicly to put that port in the deck like you guys where saying i would just have to find the total Cu. ft of the whole box. And plug my information into this handy dandy online calculator. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 and i should be fine right? not tuning this thing is gonna be hard as hell.lol I already know the length is gonna be like 40in long. but i can make it smaller if need be. And i'm gonna guess and say about 17cu ft. only thing is since its a daily driver and i want to use it for comps, how can i tune it? I mean 45 sounds like a good start, but for daily i dont want it that high, …

What are some good places to get this stuff? What am I looking for? Is there specific kinds? Are there cheaper ones and more expensive ones? How much is a good deal if I am searching on e-gay? How much will I need to make a 31x26x10.5 inch tub? How thick to I need to make it? Thanks Jerry

Ok so since i have a trunk, and its a luxury car all of the bass is staying int he trunk. I cut a hole in the panel in the back and put a gril over it, and its loud enough in the cab, but i got and and listened to it yesterday and my treble is still killing my bass, i mean when you get out you can hear it but not like you should. I went back to the trunk and i could feel a nice breeze of air exscaping through the cracks. What to do, i was thinking of either cutting a bigger hole taking off the whole panel or taking out the back seat well trying to.

how much do you think a setup like this would cost i just want a wall going across my trunk (for 2 12" RL-P's) like in the pictures and maybe when i fold down my seats ill put some plexiglass so you can look at the subs but if it costs too much then its out of the question

I Recently Talked to Chad Kyupers Drivers Start Shipping a week from today. While talking to him i mentioned 6cuft@29Hz, he said he had a guy do 4.5 at 30Hz and its output was INSANE with only 800w. he said 6@29 with 1200w should wang hard so im down to 2 enclosure options, both with equal port area (77sqin) only one iwth 2 ports and one with one. originally i though there was going to be no way to get the ports on the same plain as the driver, so i designed a side firing enclosure and the port a straight shot. then i came up with the idea to get the port on the same plain... see image below http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBFryman2/avatest.bmp the bottom thing…

Okay this year I compete in DB Drag Street B, and SLAP S2. Next year I want to do street max 1-2 in DB Drag and SS1 in SLAP I currently have 2 vfl 150.1s I like them, but they just arent doing it for me on 14v. I want to get new amps in a few weeks, and hopefully use them next year too. I have a few in my mind I have been thinking of, but I wanted to see if anyone could chime in with some good, strong amps at 14v. Thanks.

So my brother keeps telling me that even if i port my box that it will have no effect on how loud it will be, because it is in a trunk and that the only way i will tell teh diffrence is if i have a suv or fold down seats I know this is not true, but to an extent it kinda makes since

So basicly, box in trunk, 2 18's and 1 amp. for whatever db and iasca i guess, but for iasca i would have 2 amps

when building kick panels for 6.5 comps would it be better to leave it sealed or to cut a hole and vent them into the inner fender. what is the sound diff in the both. thank you.