SPL & SQ / Fabrication

ALright, I'm getting to the point of install. I am curious about the whole gain knob deal. I have always just turned it up to where it sounded good, and went on. I remember reading something about matching low level volts? So, anyway, my headunit is a whopping 2volts. - that goes to my Phoenix Gold EQ, which has a built in line driver, adjustable from 1 to 8 volts. Then, back at my Memphis amps, they are able to recieve between 1 and 4 volts. SO..gimmie a run down on how to get this stuff adjusted properly..or is there a link that could tell me and save somebody the typing?

Ok, here is are 3 chioces of a mock-up for the install. I was able to raise my air tanks up high, and now I can fit a box underneath. Here are the 3 possible ways to mount the amps. None of these ways will they actually be attached to the box. I will weld some aluminum and stand them off a 0.25" or so. Mounting the amps on top, I like the most, but one amp is slightly shorter than the other... Mounting the amps on either side, and the RL-p in the middle..though, I dont like the M's facing opposite of each other.. Mounting the amps on one side, and the RL-p on the other... Taking a vote..without a poll I guess.. Got in all my wiring today, so just waiting on the soun…

I have one, and I believe the knob is dead, the light does not come on and I cannot control the unit from it, I dont want to send it into PG and have to pay 100 just for them to look at it, any ideas? or Dave could you take a look at it?

Ok my buddy has 2 Audiobahn Flame Series AW1251T 12

I was wondering, I am trying to figure out how to not make a box but find out measurments ... well what should i look for when I am lookin at the sub specs and what just what do i look for to make sure everything is perfect

well..just got back... took second in the local class with a 144.4 outlaw on the new tl using my orion. lost to a box i built,lol, in a grandprix..two eclipse ti 12's (one blown), two memphis 1500d's, two optima's and iraggi alt..145.6. the local class was a run what u brung sorta thing...so my stock electrical system (save the big three and redtop optima) was my downfall mostly i believe as my voltage drops are huge! but at least i lost to my own enclosure..lol! and helped a friend to a 147.6 with 4 memphis pr 12's and an american bass amp...and a first in his class, 0-300 stock. time for a new system... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Info: 2-10" Alpine Type-R's in a sealed enclosure made from 3/4" MDF Volume: .882 ft^3/sub Inside dimensions: 10"x10"x15.25"/sub Outside dimensions: 11"x11"x32" Cut pieces: 2-32"x10" top & bottom 2-32"x11" front (subs will be mounted here) & back 3-10"x10" 2-sides and center divider How does this look? I assumed that 3/4" MDF is like 3/4" plywood in that the actual thickness is 1/2", or am I wrong? Thanks, Ed

Hey guys. Its time to try something new. Not sure what will happen to the sound if i tune my box higher or make it larger. I'm 1.5^3 tuned to 28hz now. love the flat response curve and helps the sub sound really low. What would happen to sq if I make the enclosure larger like 2.0^3 and/or tune higher? TIA

Well i got my RE comps from the SIN group buy a while back and it has just been these past 4 weekends that i have been working on making some tweeter pods....well actually like 2hrs of work total each day. i am finally up to paint...well here is a look back. Well here is the 2 molds. im not going to go into how to do this because there is already a thread filled with Fiberglass Tutorial Links Stickied. ya i know, the mat wasnt 100% saturated...old resin doesnt like to soak. Streching the fleece glassing the fleece a hole cut i know, not a good mounting andle by any means but we alerady discussed this for like 3 pages in a thread and the RE's have swivle mounts so …

Just starting an install journal here. Ive made most of the progress so far only having the trunk left to do after finishing up the install of the kicks/horns. Feel free to ask any questions. See sig. for other components in install. thats all fer now folks

Is the opening of a slot port supposed to be on the face of the enclosure, same direction as the sub is facing? All the boxes I have seen have them there...is that the requirement, or, just common way to build it?

dBDRAG Winners -------------- Street A -------- 1. 150.7 Jay Odom 150.3 150.3 149.8 150.7 2. 150.2 Ryan Ferguson 150.1 150.1 150.2 3. 143.8 Casey Sullivan 143.4 143.8 4. 142.5 Henry Montgomery 141.6 142.5 5. 149.6 Jonathan Smith 149.6 6. 148.1 Greg Mccool 148.1

I have read alot on building ported boxes in the past couple of days but here is what i was planning on.... Putting two kicker 12" L7's in a ported box. Here is my ? When porting the box is it more efficent to put one port out the middle where both chambers connect to, or to port each individual enclosure on either side/ or in the middle just separated!? If using just one port is there a need to separated the two chambers before the port?? THanks!@

instead of continuing to hijack ryan's pic thread, i figured i'd start this up in here.... my opinion, based on talking to a few world champs and experience.. bracing is overrated. as is double baffles. they should only be used of the sub is extremely heavy, u have a really long, flat straight stretch or u are using vast amounts of power. for everyday box building, the box isn't going to flex enough for anyone to hear, see or notice a loss from. in most cases, if designed properly, the port can act as the bracing. for the most part, the best thing u can do for ur ported box is round off all port angles, but even then, for everyday use, it isn't necessary. to gain tenths o…

Any use this program to model stuff? If so, im too broke to pay for it

i'm almost done. i didn't use any glue, cause if it won't fit threw the hatch, then i'm gonna have to put it togother in the car:( it is ~5.9ft^3@25Hz for my 2 RL-p 15's. it has to stay in the hatch(backseat has to stay functional), and with the side windows in the way, this is as close as a wall as i could get. enjoy! more tommorow

I know that ports are most efficent when they are facing on the same plane as the driver, and that you loose any gains form the port if it fires 180 degrees from the driver. but, how much SPL will be lost by aiming the por just under 90 degrees from the driver? In a (hopefully) up comming enclosure construction for an XXX18 in a Mazda B3000 ext cab putting the port on the same plane as the driver will be very hard, so i am thinking of having hte port firing up and the woofer on a slanf facing forward.... how will this compare tothe woofer and the port being on the same plane? im not concerned with not being loud, i am concerned with not beating a friends 4 JL w1v2's with…

Here is an idea i am throwing around for my 99 neon... 5.25 component set up front for the hi/hi-mids have 6x9 holes in the rear deck, but will enlarge them slightly to encompass 8"(7.25 cutout) midbass drivers 50-200 hz response.. then have 2 12's in aported box in the trunk Is this a sound design to put the midbass on the rear deck?? I have read numerous things about running mono for the rears/keep away from highs back there cuz it moves the center image backwards types of things... Also is this going to be terrible placement for the "free air" midbass speakers on the rear deck having their back wave interfering with the sub output... (really the rear deck is the only p…

NEED SOME HELP DESIGNING SYSTEM FOR 99 DODGE QUAD CAB, HAVE A FRIEND WITH CHEVY EXTENDED CAB WITH 2 ROCKFORD 10'S UNDER THE BACK SEAT AND SOME OTHER SPEAKERS IN THE FRONT DOOR PANELS. HE HAS 2 ROCKFORD 1200 AMPS, THIS THING ROCKS BETTER THAN ANY I HAVE EVER HEARD. I WANT MINE TO BE AS GOOD. DONT LIKE RAP OR BOOM BOOM MUSIC, WONT TO ROCK WITH LOTS OF BASS AND MID RANGE, METAL MUSIC COUNTRY AND CLASSIC ROCK. WANT TO USE ALL ROCKFORD FOSGATE STUFF, ANY SUGGESTIONS??? PLEASE HELP, THIS STUFF IS DIFFERENT THAN A SUPERTUNER 3 WITH 200 WATT EQ.

Steve got me interested in the idea of building a console that I could put a decent SQ sub in. My thoughts were to have something like this, Box will be fabric matched and coushioned <SP bolt to surrent center seat/console location, have brackets that fit stock storage box on it. Each end of the box will extend behind each seat for added volume, passenger side extention will be the port. OR Plastic or vinal covered glassing to look similar to the current console on the LS & LT extended cab with basically the same layout. OR But an existing color matched console and modify it to incorporate the box design. Ideas and suggestions definatly welcome. I will make a b…

My car audio team is holding a Car Audio competition in the town of Lodi. Here is the link http://www.team-bio.com/2nd_Annual_USACi_Sound_Off.htm This would be a nice little meet, for some people who want to come out and have a good ole' time. There will be a ton of cars, a ton of extremely nice cars, and its just alot of fun. Last year we held this event, we have around 50 cars. If you need any additional information let me, know Falout2guy __________________

So the Mag that is coming is going to need a worthy home in April's alero. I'm thinking: Shooting for 1.75ft^3, ported to 32hz with 18in^2 of port. Only going to feed her ~600rms @ 4ohm (Lanzar Vibe). Woofer in the rear corner, port running fwd and venting into the center, amp (the white thingy) frenched into the glass 'in front of' the port. Coo? -Nick

i just traded my one 12" MTX 8000 series for 2 10" MTX 6000 series (4 ohm). sounds like i got screwed but the 10 sounds so much better. now i want to get an enclosure for both because the guy i traded with only had an enclosure for one. the enclosure it is in now is about 1.1 cu. ft. it sounds pretty good, gets decently low and decently loud, but doesnt really exceed in either category. i listen to all kinds of rock and some rap occasionally. so i want an LSQ setup. i cant decide whether i want to go ported yet or not. i'd love to but not sure i have the money because i dont have the knowledge to build my own. i am just wondering what the perfect size sealed and port…

This is for 2-10" Alpine Type-R subs (SWR-1022D), and will be powered by an Alpine MRD-M501 amplifier rated at 550W into 2 ohm mono. These are my inside dimensions: Height 10" Depth 10" Width 15.25" Total is .88 ft^3/sub Total outside box dimensions are: 11"x11"x32" I need to put this box underneath a rear strut bar and from the bottom of the bar to the trunk floor is 11 1/2". Will this work or should I scrap the strut bar and build a taller box? Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Ed

Here is a link from CDT that has basic knowedge on staging, also includes many install guides and specs for their products. http://www.cdtaudio.com/downloads.htm