SPL & SQ / Fabrication

The plastic that holds all of the controls for the windows and doors seems to rattle a bit, any ideas on how to stop it? I was thinking some type of small felt tape that you can find at hardware stores.

i wanna use a 6 inch port tube going up in my car from top of box and sub facing back cup holder whole in seat.I no wat size is optimal for the 10 xcon. But how long would the port have to be. I want to tune around 30. My space to use up (32L) (14H) (14D)

Doing a system for a friend with an Intrepid. He already has the subs and amp- 2 12" T2's in D4 config, and a rockford T2000 to power them. Lots of room in the trunk to play around with so this is what i was thinking: 5 cubes gross, single slot port appox 96 sq inch tuned to 35hz. Subs and Ports firing rear. Goal is primarily SPL and as long as it doesn't sound like complete ass he's cool with whatever. Listens mostly to rap. What do you guys think?

some one give me a little feed back! ive always thought it was best to give each sub its own chamber then slot port in the middle? lately ive seen alot of boxes where the speakers are pretty much sharing one chamber and L-ported towards the drivers side firing back, is this more effiecient sounding? or is this done so the box can fit better? i have a 2002 accord and i want this setup to be good DAILY. dnt care so much for SQ but more so SPL. meaning SPL to the ear ill doubt i ever see a meter. THANKS FOR ANYTHING GUYS

I've been wanting to start my box build but could not find anyone selling PVC 8" x 20" flare aeroports. I've contacted a guy named Derrick that sells them but have not responded for over a month. I don't want to make my own and would rather buy a kit, and I have already looked at the metal ones but they are pricey. Anybody know where to get them?

the sub should be here within the week. it will be going in a 2002 cavalier. i have limits on the box, so i have come up with 36w x 17h x 13d with 2 3"ID ports tuning to 35hz. i read some where i could tune the box a little higher due to the fact i listen to a wide range of music. any truth?? sub will fire into the cab area. i have also read some where about sealing off the trunk. so, i would seal off the enclosure from the rest of the trunk and channel all the sound into the cab area?? any specifications on space needed in front of the woofer or ports??

So i am building a new box as of this moment i have 2.5 net volume without any sub displacement or any thing. The driver is 1 RE SE12 . My desired tuning frequency is around 32-34 hz. I want to know what the port diameter and length i have tried some calculators but they are to long for the enclosure.

I need help with a box spec for my 2 Sundown Audio SA-15s. Its going into a Izusu Rodeo. The box can be up to 41 inches wide. I looking for a box that i can use as a daily driver and for competitions. I would appreciate the help.

ok...im gettin a cae this summer...((gas mileage purposes)) and dont know really anything about doin subs in cars....ive done trucks forever and know all about them but im dumb when it comes to what cars sound good with what....so i wanna hear some opinions on what setups yall have going in cars tht put up respectable numbers thnks, zak

i just got a lightning audio storm x2.h15. v4 and ive been looking for a new recone does anyone know where i might find a new recone?

I was just wondering if anyone can design a box for my fi q 12 that will get low and loud. . . its for a blow through in a single cab chevy old body style and max deminsions are 48 width 17 high and 70 long. . . i just want to get something the will sound like more than one twelve back there till i get money to actually by more ill give 10 dollars pay pal for whoever does this. . . Also i heard 6th order was the way to go cause i have a 4th order right now but i made it to big so i need someone with some sense to make me a 6th BP if possible if not so input please on best box design. Thanks Everyone Thanks, Teddy

I want to go with a 4" aero for this temporary build. I am going to go 24x13x13 with 4" aero at 14.5/8ths long. Tuning will be around 35hz? Volume should be 1.5ish after displacement?

Im gonna make a box for a buddy of mine and he wants it to be 8cu ft and tuned to 34hz...i was wondering the size of the aeroport i need...lenth, and what size pipe should i do

Need suggestions on bracing for this box. Would a single 4x4 in the center of this box be enough bracing for top to bottom. I haven't added bracing from side to side or front to back yet. Total top width is just over 52 and bottom is just over 41 wide 38 deep and 18 tall designed for 4 12's

I am new hear but installed my first system in 92. I use to have a hatchback and always used sealed boxes. I always used a slightly slanted boxes firing up at about 75 degrees and about 5 inches from the back wall (t5 inches is all the space I had left). Always had clean and awsome bass but I've recently installed a couple of 12's in a flat box firing directly at the back at 90 degrees to the rear with less success. My question is, Is it better to have a slanted box for rear firing and what is the best distance from the rear cause my trunk is huge and am currently about 10 inches from the back. Thanks for your support …

i already have a btl 18 in my magnum but am wanting to add another. what im wanting is some ideas on boxes, not sure what my max dimensions are. thanks for any ideas

I'm kinda interested in doing a T-line or horn or ABC enclosure, just want to do something different, or at least see if it will work. I read a couple of articles on T-line design, but I don't really want to do that much math. I'm just looking for some general design guidelines/ what to expect in terms of results for those types of enclosures, which is probably a lot to ask, since there is a lot that goes into the design and fine-tuning of those enclosures. For example, if i wanted to do a T-line for a 10" woofer, how large of a "pipe" would I need? How much do I need to offset the driver from the end of the pipe? stuff like that...

this will be going in a '06 gmc ext. cab 4 door.im not walling it. 2 21" DP's.ill log everything and put it up on here as well as ROE maybe even Classifiedzz.but i need to work some kinks out of it first DP 21

I came across a thread on here where a guy cut slices into one side of a sheet of MDF and then he bent it into a tube! I can no longer find it and i wanted to get a better look at it because i was thinking of using this technique! Does anyone remember where this is? or does anyone remember seeing this? Please post a link to this thread! It would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!! <<<<HAHAHA

Well, as some may know (from my thread in the subwoofer/speaker forum) I have an RE Audio seX 15D4 coming my way. So, I am in need of building an enclosure for it. So, this will be going in the back of a Chev S-10, and will be powered by a JBL 601.1 amp (receiving ~600 watts RMS) This will not be for competitions of any kind, however I do enjoy listening to music, as such I want something that has the ability to sound decent and yet still get fairly loud for just general driving around use. So, for dimensions, I can go up to 40.5" wide by 18" high by 14" deep (outside measures). I am looking to do a ported enclosure. Not decided on whether I should go slot port or roun…

Since I have a Ford Taurus my trunck was totally sealed and no bass would come through and had to port my seat and my deck lid and am trying to locate some speaker cloth that will let the bass to travel through without affecting airflow. Do they make this. I did try the metal mesh grill like I saw in an Overhualing tv show but found it affected bass intensity and sound quality. I am a musician and know my bassists amp has a plastic type mesh (grill) that suppesedly doesn't affect sound quality. Just wondering if anyone out there uses anything specific?

Ok I'm a newb so this is prob dumb question but I want to make a costome headunit adaptor plate and I have abs, so I was wondering how to put togethor the two pieces

What is the best place to find 4" id aero ports that don't flare out past 6.75" maybe 7" that won't break the bank? What would be the best brand for the price? Is it better or easier to use schedule 40 pvc pipe or the tubes you can buy for the flares or get a whole kit? Will any flare fit pvc pipe? Would they work if the port inside the box faced each other about 16" apart, firing in opposite directions? Ps i will have 4 sa-8s in about 2.73 cubes before any displacement with about 500 watts going to each and i do not have enough room to use 6". And i want to have it tuned for daily use, anywhere in between 33-40 hz

If you had an enclosure for 2 12" subs with 2.2 cubes ea, with individual airspaces could u build a common port to split between the 2? or if you had a common port area would the enclosure have to have a common airspace for the subs as well?

I've been looking at the usaci rules but all I can find is that it says modifications are trunk only so does this mean batteries and amps also have to be in the trunk or just the sub?