SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So, explorers finally safetied.... Now i am going to start the box build. I plan on installing 2 15's for now, but 4 in total down the road. My question, would it be bad for the subs to oversize the box to leave room to cut in speaker openings down the road? The subs call for roughly 3.5 @ 33-35 hz, if i made the box like 12 cubes tuned to the proper frequency what effect would it have? How does the increased size effect the sound and response of the sub? Will their be any dangers in running a sub in an oversize inclosure for daily driving? Thanks in advance. Chris McDonald

Since I have a Ford Taurus my trunck was totally sealed and no bass would come through and had to port my seat and my deck lid and am trying to locate some speaker cloth that will let the bass to travel through without affecting airflow. Do they make this. I did try the metal mesh grill like I saw in an Overhualing tv show but found it affected bass intensity and sound quality. I am a musician and know my bassists amp has a plastic type mesh (grill) that suppesedly doesn't affect sound quality. Just wondering if anyone out there uses anything specific?

I ordered my First 18in. btl on tuesday and i am ordering my second on friday. In anticipation I got to playing around with some designs. I am going with a wall build in my trailblazer and i got the front template all cut out perfectly today and threw it into sketchup. Double baffled 3/4in. mdf on the front and double baffle all around for the actual enclosure also " even though it is not shown in sketchup" After sub displacement it sits at 21.07cf. and no i am not counting the sub braces since i just put those in to see how i would set them since i dont have the actual subs yet. also i will be throwing in a couple of 45's to help so am i missing anything big/gettin…

I've been looking at the usaci rules but all I can find is that it says modifications are trunk only so does this mean batteries and amps also have to be in the trunk or just the sub?

i just got a lightning audio storm x2.h15. v4 and ive been looking for a new recone does anyone know where i might find a new recone?

the sub should be here within the week. it will be going in a 2002 cavalier. i have limits on the box, so i have come up with 36w x 17h x 13d with 2 3"ID ports tuning to 35hz. i read some where i could tune the box a little higher due to the fact i listen to a wide range of music. any truth?? sub will fire into the cab area. i have also read some where about sealing off the trunk. so, i would seal off the enclosure from the rest of the trunk and channel all the sound into the cab area?? any specifications on space needed in front of the woofer or ports??

i wanna use a 6 inch port tube going up in my car from top of box and sub facing back cup holder whole in seat.I no wat size is optimal for the 10 xcon. But how long would the port have to be. I want to tune around 30. My space to use up (32L) (14H) (14D)

Ok, so I float around a few different forums and everyone has something different on the subject. Could someone please explain port loading? Why would you want have the sub in different locations in relation to the port? (close, far, centered on the face, etc) For example lets say for arguments sake; lets just have the port and sub on the same plain on the box for this discussion. I'm always trying to learn things to help me make louder, better boxes for my customers. I figure understanding this phenomena will help. Thanks in advance

I came across a thread on here where a guy cut slices into one side of a sheet of MDF and then he bent it into a tube! I can no longer find it and i wanted to get a better look at it because i was thinking of using this technique! Does anyone remember where this is? or does anyone remember seeing this? Please post a link to this thread! It would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!! <<<<HAHAHA

I'm kinda interested in doing a T-line or horn or ABC enclosure, just want to do something different, or at least see if it will work. I read a couple of articles on T-line design, but I don't really want to do that much math. I'm just looking for some general design guidelines/ what to expect in terms of results for those types of enclosures, which is probably a lot to ask, since there is a lot that goes into the design and fine-tuning of those enclosures. For example, if i wanted to do a T-line for a 10" woofer, how large of a "pipe" would I need? How much do I need to offset the driver from the end of the pipe? stuff like that...

So i am building a new box as of this moment i have 2.5 net volume without any sub displacement or any thing. The driver is 1 RE SE12 . My desired tuning frequency is around 32-34 hz. I want to know what the port diameter and length i have tried some calculators but they are to long for the enclosure.

I am new hear but installed my first system in 92. I use to have a hatchback and always used sealed boxes. I always used a slightly slanted boxes firing up at about 75 degrees and about 5 inches from the back wall (t5 inches is all the space I had left). Always had clean and awsome bass but I've recently installed a couple of 12's in a flat box firing directly at the back at 90 degrees to the rear with less success. My question is, Is it better to have a slanted box for rear firing and what is the best distance from the rear cause my trunk is huge and am currently about 10 inches from the back. Thanks for your support …

ok...im gettin a cae this summer...((gas mileage purposes)) and dont know really anything about doin subs in cars....ive done trucks forever and know all about them but im dumb when it comes to what cars sound good with what....so i wanna hear some opinions on what setups yall have going in cars tht put up respectable numbers thnks, zak

i made a box using RE box builder and this is what i cam up with i am putting a 18" night shade in it how much air space do i have and whats it tuned at i think iKnow but wanna double check with you guys first W=36 H= 22 TD= 24 Bd= 24 1"MDF port 1= 6" port 2= 4"

I was just wondering if anyone can design a box for my fi q 12 that will get low and loud. . . its for a blow through in a single cab chevy old body style and max deminsions are 48 width 17 high and 70 long. . . i just want to get something the will sound like more than one twelve back there till i get money to actually by more ill give 10 dollars pay pal for whoever does this. . . Also i heard 6th order was the way to go cause i have a 4th order right now but i made it to big so i need someone with some sense to make me a 6th BP if possible if not so input please on best box design. Thanks Everyone Thanks, Teddy

Need suggestions on bracing for this box. Would a single 4x4 in the center of this box be enough bracing for top to bottom. I haven't added bracing from side to side or front to back yet. Total top width is just over 52 and bottom is just over 41 wide 38 deep and 18 tall designed for 4 12's

I need help with a box spec for my 2 Sundown Audio SA-15s. Its going into a Izusu Rodeo. The box can be up to 41 inches wide. I looking for a box that i can use as a daily driver and for competitions. I would appreciate the help.

The plastic that holds all of the controls for the windows and doors seems to rattle a bit, any ideas on how to stop it? I was thinking some type of small felt tape that you can find at hardware stores.

Im gonna make a box for a buddy of mine and he wants it to be 8cu ft and tuned to 34hz...i was wondering the size of the aeroport i need...lenth, and what size pipe should i do

looking for some info on a spl ported box design for 2 15" dc level 4 or where i may look into getting one built????

Doing a system for a friend with an Intrepid. He already has the subs and amp- 2 12" T2's in D4 config, and a rockford T2000 to power them. Lots of room in the trunk to play around with so this is what i was thinking: 5 cubes gross, single slot port appox 96 sq inch tuned to 35hz. Subs and Ports firing rear. Goal is primarily SPL and as long as it doesn't sound like complete ass he's cool with whatever. Listens mostly to rap. What do you guys think?

this will be going in a '06 gmc ext. cab 4 door.im not walling it. 2 21" DP's.ill log everything and put it up on here as well as ROE maybe even Classifiedzz.but i need to work some kinks out of it first DP 21

I ordered two 12" D1 Icons and want to build a box for them before they get here, but I have only built one box before and have had three pre-fab box's before. In all of my sub setups (total of 4) it seemed that my very first enclosure "folded horn" box which is what the salesman told me it was. . Was it actually a folded horn box, I have no idea, BUT according to everyone else apparently you could hear me about 5 blocks away with two 10" memphis subs 250rms each. That box seemed the cleanest i've ever had and it had the port in the middle of the box with a wall in the middle of the port running parallel with it, so basically each subwoofer had its own chamber. My questi…

When mounting subs like this, can you make the enclosure smaller than recommended? For instance, if the subs call for 1.5 cubes each ported can you get away with making the box 2-2.5 for both? What are the (dis)advantages to mounting subs like this? Or are there any?I know the polarity needs to be reversed with the sub mounted inverted.

for a friend. its an explorer.. 30 deep 40 wide. and tall well that depends on how much air space will be needed for the design 2 kicker L7 15s "all black" i donno if it makes a shit i dont follow kickers. not sure where to tune it at .,. i was thinking 33 hrtz or so. sub up port up. thanks,