SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm trying to figure out an enclosure configuration for 3 SA-10s, just not sure which way to go. Was looking at doing a downfire enclosure with an aeroport(s) firing to the side,. Just curious if there is any drawbacks to something like this. I like the idea of it being less visible, as well being a little more protected from the elements if the top is down. If it's a terrible idea, I'm all ears for better options. Thanks

Assuming all have the same sealed/ported volume and same port size. I know the pics aren't to scale so don't take that into consideration. I have seen pretty much all of these types used, so I know any would technically work but I wonder about cancellation with all but # 2. The box would be for 8 10's, tuned to 45hz with about 35 cubes total if you're curious. I would have never considered facing subs at each other in the past but I've seen some of the loudest 4th orders with subs facing right at each other like design 1 and 3 so it might not be as much of an issue as I was always told. All are 4th order walls in case that wasn't obvious and the crap drawing is an overh…

website specs say they like 2.5-2.75ft^3 do they like larger than 2.75 or should i keep it there?

im looking at my max dimensions and it looks like its going to be around 8 cubes and its most likely going to be tuned to 33hertz and i was wondering if thats too big? its a shared chamber subs and port up(going in a pickup)

I have yet to personally use an RTA for my own personal use so let's see if I get this right- I want to use Pink noise because that is generated to play how our ears perceive sound. When analyzing what pink noise looks like on a computer, it appears from 20hz-20khz, for every octave from 20hz, the amplitude drops 3db. So, at 20khz, it's very low compared to 20hz but our ears must be very sensitive there(if you can hear it) to perceive a flat response. So, when i go to RTA my front stage, is my goal to also (if it were perfectly possible) to achieve a full range reading exactly how pink noise is generated? 3db drop for every octave up? In the end, I would assu…

In this episode of "Car Audio Fabrication" I share the proper way to utilize T-Nuts in an install. The advantages of T Nuts are as follows: Screws can be removed several times if you need to access the inside of the enclosure with no worry of srtipping or degrading the thread quality (like what would occur with wood screws into wood)More secure mounting, they cannot be pulled loose from the mounting surface as occurs with wood screws.Other notes: Adding a dab of super glue before securing the t nut to the wood can prevent them from falling into the enclosure before installing. Using a size down from the shank of the t nut for your drill hole allows for a tighter squ…

I have two Sony explode 10's I got last year; I have them in 1.3cuft each sealed; I am in the process of moving, all the big tools are in storage, so I can't build a new box. I have some scrap wood laying around, and I want to knock out a wall of the box and combine it with another slightly smaller enclosure and port it; I hate scrapping it together, but these are my killing time subs, I just play with them to try ideas; anybody have any tips on making junk subs drop lower? I am not after a ton of output, it's for a computer speaker setup; just want real low extension. I am looking to get it tuned to 24hz, with -plenty- of port; does anyone have any idea what kind of air…

i have a 96 s10 reg cab and in order to have a bigger system im forced to build a blow-thru. ive decided that my best option is to do a 4th order bandpass with the port coming through the back of my cab. i like the idea of having a single octo-port (just because i think they look effin b-a). ive done read just about everything you can find on the net and also talked to a few guys who have them....but everyone says something different....my question is how do you tune these things??? "golden ratio/theory"??? i plan on using 4 Lanzar Max Pro 15's (yes i know what your thinking) but they dont need a ton of space and power

I'm currently building my first 6th order bandpass enclosure. I need a way to make the top panel secure to the box, but easily removable for access to the sub once the top is put on. Here is what I have done thus far. I have also added weather stripping all around to prevent leaking. I'm looking for suggestions for the best way to go about this other than glue and screws. Thanks in advance.

im going to have two FI BL 15s and i want a good enclosure. my max dimensions are 50 inches in width, 28 inches in height, and 25 inches in depth, and i kinda wanted a design plan such as the port dimensions and should i go double or single baffle?

i wanted to get the maximum amount of cubes i could get in my small pickup so i was thinking about a box that has shared chambers. are there any cons or bad things about a box for two subs with a shared chamber? its going to ported also and its for two fi bl 15s

Many times I have been asked: "What if I don't have a table saw, how can i still make a good box?" This video answers that question. Enjoy!

I need Help for my 10 Xcon I would like A Ported Box, would like to have my tuning around 32 If opti.

I have been working on an enclosure for 2 SSA Zcons. Spent the last week on these. Learning how to use sketch up and trying to understand torres calculation tool. I have come up with two designs using these. I am looking for some advice from someone to help me confirm my that what I have done is correct to what has been drawn. I could send my sketchup design to you for advice. I have used the torres calculation tuner to determine my port lengths and sizes. I am not 100% sure I have fully understand all senarios which change my calculations in this calculator.

In this video I show you how to cut a perfect circle for your car audio install: What you need: Router (Preferably a plunge, but I show you can use a normal one) Jasper Circle Jig Drill 3/16 Drill Bit Wood to cut a circle into The Jasper circle jig in the video is the Model 200. Search Google for "Jasper Circle Jig Model 200" to find it. Mark

Single Q12 going in 2005 jimmy and was wondering if I should just go with the cut sheets found here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/#entry701997 or should I get someone to design one? wondering if this would be optimal for good SQ over SPL. Should I place enclosure against front seats facing sub backwards, upwards, towards front or behind back seats facing up or backwards ?? Looking for SQ quick response over SPL. Wanting ported for better power usage and also heard ported can sound just as good as sealed so went that way and got without high QTS. Anyone have experience with single 12 in SUV ? Anyone maybe be able to design an encl…

I bet you'd never see me post this M5 haha anyways, ill post what im looking to do and what im working with. its my daily driver, a 2011 ford flex, with the stock Sony system, SYNC, etc. first up, HU. i dont want to replace the stock unit. its a good unit and i dont want to mess with an aftermarket one. theres a guy on the flex forum that runs a JBL MS8 with his stock unit and says its incredible. budget wise, im not going to throw a number, but i will state that i am not going to be paying like 500+ per speaker or anything crazy. this is just a daily driver and even the cheapest of a "sq" setup will sound good to me, as i mainly use pro audio in my other rides. i d…

Alright, so my boss finally warming up to the idea of making a wall in his Cavalier for our shop demo car! Now, this isn't 100% going to happen, but I'm excited and want to be ready for when he decides. I know this place has a ton of knowledge, plenty and plenty of people who have made walls. I guess I'm looking for just general rules and/or tips to make sure it will turn out well. Iv decided just to make a normal, flat and vented wall. Leaning towards 4 15's with a nice big slot port on the drivers side. Any tips are welcome of course, thanks guys!

So I used to run my Fi SSD 18 in a 9cuft box tuned to 32hz (or close, it was my first box build and I had some hard times with it). I liked how it sounded, though it was on the high end as far as box recommendations go for an SSD 18. The thing with the box was that it suffered slight water damage and aesthetically wasn't as pleasing as I preferred. I was looking to either paint it or put some sort of vinyl or something over it to improve its looks, but never got around to it. Another thing that was annoying about the box was how LARGE it was lol. It was initially designed for my room, but was moved out to my Jeep Cherokee. I wanted to keep the back seats up, so the only w…

I just had a box built for my 2 icon 12's tuned at 30hz.I had it metered at my local shop.they said it was peaking at 40hz.is this normal?is it cabin gain etc.

Hi I am doing my best to avoid stupid pointless purchases with my summer build however the box Ive had built did not pass your guys inspection http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/58341-please-help-me-figure-out-port-tuning-did-i-get-screwed/ Current box: 34W X 14H X 24D outer dimensions Port: 4W X 12.5H X 12D (no L) (2) DD 2512C on (2) hifonics brz1200 @ 1ohm ea the only difference with the pics in the link above is that I have removed the slanted port divider I'm wondering if a "better" box would be the way to go I have no reason to think the box is performing poorly I'm currently on a mission for more power but Ive got alot of responses to my amp bu…

Know that my 270A alternator has been ordered I'll be ordering a second FI BL 15 for my car. I was wanting to get you thought on this parameters

I'm considering building a bandpass box for my BTL, has anyone here ever heard a BTL in any of these boxes I listed below? If yes, how did it sound? I currently have a box built to BTL specs but tuned to 34hz.. Most people would be impressed by how it sounded and by how loud it got; but I would like it to get louder. 4th order: rear chamber sealed. front chamber ported. Best suited to subs that work best in sealed boxes. 6th order: rear chamber ported. front chamber ported. Best suited to subs that work best in ported boxes. Dual-bass-Reflex: rear chamber ported. front chamber ported. front and rear chamber connected by a third port. Best suited to subs that work best in …

Is the correct way the measure a port that has a 45 in it or do you measure like a standard L-Port.

I have been reading on t-line boxes for a good 2-3 hours now and am just not understanding the design part 100%. Only one that I have read and felt like I somewhat understood was the "u-shape" style design. I have always done slot ported boxes and was always happy. I think it is time for me to learn a little more about boxes. So far, this is what I have grasped Say I wanted a box tuned to 34hz. I would take 1130 (the speed of sound,) divide that by 34. Which would lead me to 32.25ft (rounded a tad). I would multiply that by .25 because I am looking for the 1/4 wave length. I would need a port 8.0625ft long. And SD equals port area? Also I am aware this is not a full t-l…