SPL & SQ / Fabrication

My buddy wanted to go from 2 12s to 1 12 in a sealed so I built him a box for free and he gave some cheapo 12" sub as a thanks. I would like to build a 4th order since I never have and see how loud I can get this guy for shits and giggles. Problem is I don't know where to start on designing one.

Has anyone done any TL testing with a vehicle before bracing and after bracing? Mainly looking for daily driver type results. I've added sound deadening to my vehicle (2002 volvo v40), in hopes of getting rid of rattles and other annoyances. I haven't applied any treatment to the roof yet. Once I have the subwoofers playing, I'll be able to tell if / how much it needs to be deadened & braced. I'm just toying with the idea of bracing the roof with 1/8" steel strips, bracing door sheet metal, and other flexing panels across the vehicle. So not doing any stripper poles, or bolting shut doors. Just curious if it would be worth it, if there would be an audible increase in …

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-0-CU-FT-CUSTOM-PORTED-BOX-fits-KICKER-CVR15-CVX15-/160554332666?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2561c8b1fa It would be going with a Sundown nightshade. I am very curious to hear what you have to say about this, being that its from ebay. But 4.0 CU. Ft. tuned to 32 hz seem perfect. I know building one will be a little cheaper but it probably wont come out as nice and would save me the headache of building one myself. But if you recommended that I just build one myself then thats what ill do.

so ive been looking around for ideas how to get mach5 mli 6.5s and tweets in my doors, but the mounting depth is kicking my a$$. the magnet will hit the window when its rolled down if i put it in the stock location. im wanting to do minimal modification to my doors to keep it as stock as possible*. i saw this and figured it would be perfect for me, if it wont hurt the speaker at all. i cant think of any reason it would, but im just making sure. should i seal behind it with something, or just use some deadening on the door itself? any input would be nice, thanks! hope this works, and if it does work i hope it comes out cleaner than that one

I recently got my system all finished and was wondering if there is an app or something i can download to get an estimate of how many dbs i'm hitting. I know some people that have termlabs but i don't wanna drive an hour for a 5 minute test.

Ok people, I decided that if I can go with around 3.5^ for each enclosure for the HD 15's, then i'm going with that. I know that isn't the optimal size for this sub, but it's just for a daily driver and not doing any competitions; basically trying to bump somebody out on a street situation. If this would be too small for the subs to actually put out at their full potential, then I would have to go with 2 of the HDC312's. I was thinking to take out the rear deck and have the subs/ports firing through there with having the space b/t the box and metal sealed. What's the input on this one?

i wanted to get the maximum amount of cubes i could get in my small pickup so i was thinking about a box that has shared chambers. are there any cons or bad things about a box for two subs with a shared chamber? its going to ported also and its for two fi bl 15s

okay these dimenions that i have for this sub box say the front and the top are the same okay thats where i get confused with it because i thought the top was the top of the sub box and the front where the ports at is the front not the other way around. 2cubes35hz2925sqin6tn.png i hope that the picture worked because i do not know how to put them on here if it doesn't work just tell me. because this is really confusing me really really bad.....

...need some mad pound wang up in here yo... LMAO Can ya hear me now?...Good!

I am working with a new AS1 competitor trying to get them a really nice score this season. Basically, rules are as follows- System must reside in trunk only, car MUST be off and play a song only. Well, he currently did a 140.2 with 2 Fi SSD 10s and an audiopipe 3000w using a 35A fuse. This is my theory- Because MECA's classes are limited on fuses + cone area.. and cone area and power go hand in hand with each other... as long as the space is there... more cone area and less power "should" result in a higher pressure output. He was able to pull just over 100A off that 35A fuse to get his score. We aren't restricted on cone area but cone area + fusing x 10 cannot surpass 55…

I have been approached by a customer with 4 Kicker Warhorses and 4 Kicker Solo X 18s. He is having me build a 1990 Astro van to be all out SPL. i am looking for any help in the matter of tips, tricks, pointers, etc on how to do this install. Lexan windows are already in plans. Concrete floor will be a must (how do i do this? how thick? what kind of concrete? just the cabin or all the way back?). Lowering roof (how should i do this? what should i use?). Custom Dash (what do i use? how should i construct it? what shape?). Center Counsel (should I build one? just leave it open space? what should I build it with? how should design be?). should i cover the wall floor roof dash…

I am about to get a really good deal on two AA Havoc 12"s soon. And I havent got the room for a full ported box in my truck for two 12s. So heres what i'm doin. I've designed a box which is right around 2.5cuft before driver displacement. Idk how or what role the size of a sealed box plays with output or with quality. The box looks kinda like this. /l Ll It is 36" wide x 22" tall x 10" deep. With the front of the sub having a 45 Degree face starting 12" up the front size. I'll upload a pic in a few to clarify as much as my lil sketches possibly can. Also a double baffle design. Any info or help would be greatly appreciated!!

hello ssa and people with grand prixs lol. i wanna but a 15 fi bl in the trunk of my 97 gp. but idk how i can make a big enough box but still fit in in through the trunk. people with gbs can i get some box dimentions please that would be great. thanks for veiwing.

i have a 12" FI Q w/ BP option in a 2001 jeep grand cherokee. powered by a SAE 1000D @ 1ohm. right now it's in a 1.5cuft (external before displacements) enclosure that i had the (horribly stupid) local audio shop make for me. i was short on time. i'll let you know dimensions of the room i have to work with. but there is basically as much room as you could ever need for a single 12. or i want it ported tuned to anywhere close to 32hz. so yea, have fun, keep in mind this is my first box. and i don't want it to be over (i believe) 16 inches. i just want it to stay below my rear window level. thank you so much i know it's not really hard. it's just a temp box to get some prac…

my buddy steve has a pair of audiobahn aw120q (12") what would be the optimal airspace and port tunning for them thanks chop

My db drag partners ride this season 4- AUDIOPULSE 15'S, WALL 8- AMPS STRAPPED, 20,800 WATTS RMS 8- BATTERIES 2- ALTERNATORS= 510 AMPERS AND 300 INCHES OF PORT -Each amp at .5 ohms just like my sundowns (same wiring on the dual amp single woofer strap) -156 legal (156.4 later that night) with three out of 4 of the 15's on -amps have not been matched perfectly yet -woofers have not all broken in -wall still has not been sealed off -no deadening yet -batteries were uncharged

Which one do u think will be louder audioque hdc3 15 or t3 audio tss 15

Current setup: exodus ex-anarchy mids peerless/scanspeak hds tweets Kicks are sealed. I've started making new kick panels for the mids and tweets, possibly porting for more midbass, but I've started thinking about exodus mids in doors, get some midrange drivers (bumping up to a three way, I think I can manage ), put midrange & tweets in kick area, or just midrange kick, and or possibly tweets in dash and deal with window reflections. I like the idea of mids in doors so I could seriously free up some leg room, what downsides am I'm looking at? If they went into the doors, they would be mounted to a fiberglass panel/pod that's securely bolted to the sheet metal. The p…

looking for some help with the enclosure i am planning to build in the rear seat of my accord. it is not going to be a wall but a ported box reall. i was just wondering how to face the subs and ports. like subs up ports forward and that kinda junk. well i guess i should have stated what im looking for. im looking for a loud daily driver.

Went to competition today out in South West Fort Worth.(Whole new world to me.) Got my single 12" SS SPLX back so I decided to strap both Sundowns to it for 0.5 ohm per amp and let her rip. On my Kinetik with almost no charge last night I did a 151.3 in a 60Hz SPL box. 2.5 cubic foot box tuned to 60Hz with 2 4" aero ports 6 inches long with 1 coat of fiberglass resin on the inside, and the master amp at 1/2 gain. Will post up a pic of the setup and score as soon as I get them uploaded.

So Ive got what looked like a decent box on paper (BBP6) but once built is quite depressing and seems to be choking the sub. It sounds decent but just leaves the thought that so much more could be gotten from it, but Im not all that great with designing boxes, every now and then a good one pops up. Another member gave me the idea to build the box in a way that the sub would angle some to fire more towards the rear glass and have the port fire back, if anyone is willing to toss in some input or maybe help with a design that would be greatly appreciated. Space to work with is 17.5" tall, 24" deep, and if possible 28" wide but could get up to 36" wide if I relocate the spare…

im making a box for 2 12 Fi BL 12's and was wondering do i need a baffle for the 12's? becuse if i baffled it would mess with the volume and tuning of the box? sooo? not sure. the port is located inbetween the 12's. anyones 2cents?

I am using a audiocontrol 3055 to tune my system once its parts arrive. I like the kicker KQ30 but it has 1 in and 1 out for RCA. this would make me think i need to have amps with pass through. if i am outputting a 0.2V signal from my HU to my KQ30 and a 8V out of the KQ to amp 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 would amp 5 have a 2V signal or a 8V signal? how many amps can i daisy chain in this manor before i run into issues. secondly i have a KX3 that i do not believe i will need but if i end up using it would i run into a SQ issue having HU > EQ > Xover > amp? would that added processor cause issues with sound quality? a third question is if i am to have all my amps/proces…

Hey guys. Looking to do my first bandpass 4th order. The reason for this enclosure would be to push all pressure into the cabin of a car through a ski port behind the center rear seat. I understand how vented and sealed enclosures are designed, however bandpass 4ths seem to confuse me a bit. I have searched and found many sources, but I get strange or mixed answers. Please help me clear up some things. I am looking for a transient response with good output. Hoping to get the lows in my passed frequency without sacraficing too much of the 60-80hz range. I have heared that the sealed portion will mainly control the Low Pass and the ported portion will mainly control the Hig…

Hello all, I have been a traditional sealed box kind of guy, but I want to try something different. I am going to build a bandpass box for some SA-10's that will be pushed by a SAZ-1500Dv2. The port will be pushing through a ski hole in the back seat. The sub that I have now fires through the port, but I am hoping to eliminate some of the trunk rattles by creating a port that extends through the ski pass. I have taken a few pics to give you guys an idea of what I am trying to do. I want to fire through a port where the homemade ski pass, the trunk is sealed very well, so I opted to cut a hole. I have come up with some figures for the SA-10s by using an online ca…