SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have never done a wall before, and i am really interested in them. If its not too much trouble i was wondering if i could get schooled on them -- how to prep a truck for a wall, the do's and dont's, bracing, etc. etc. etc. I would like to become confident before going balls deep into this build and I don't want to be slapped in the face by how little i know half way into the build, ALSO i want to know what i am getting myself into before i start cutting. (ported, 10-20 cubes) i seen the build a wall build and it had a SHIT load of 2x4s.. would i have to do this to my truck? The truck will be a 1986 GMC Sonoma (S15) ext cab and the equipment is 2 or 3 (depending on how …

whats a good tuning for a subwoofer box using 8" for sq purpose and would bring out the best musicality beats for new wave songs? swing out sisters, bizzare love triangle original track, gona get your love, godfinger, reasons, etc etc i was thinking of using a sealed box, but the 8" on a sealed box would just produce hard beats.. i was thinking of 38hz on a 1.0 cubic feet? any suggestion? im kind new to SQ system, and im having a hard time deciding on how should i tune the box or go with a sealed.. i would want the output to produce hard beats when needed at the same time could produce long bass when needed.. :puzzled:

i had a rockford fosgate t1d415 before and ive been messing around with custom boxes for a little while. i didnt know too much about winisd back then. luckily my first box i built for it played very nice and didnt have any port noise. i tuned it around 34hz if i remember correctly. i loved how low it could get down. i played into the lower/mid 20's (i know i was playing a bit lower than the tuning freq) and loved it. this time around im going to design a box for my fi sp4 15. it should be here any day (i hope) and i'd like to be tuned low. heres my current design for it. can you guys let me know if my design is ok. i know the port is a little skinny but it looks like the …

i just got paid, and have 70 dollars to spend, so which is a good palm sander, and where to find it thanks

Hi, I need help with a spl box in a sedan. My car in a Acura cl 97 the seats do not let down but there is a 7 by 10 hole where the arm rest lets down. My subwoofer is a T3 audio tss 15 with one Sundown a Audio saz3000d pushing it. What is the best setup, sub firing to the back with port to the back, maybe sub firing up with port to the rear. I'm 39 years old an have been out of spl for years but I miss all the fun. I donot want to be in the way at shows so can you guys help my with a design that may work.The car will be use for spl music.Thanks for any help.

Hi i'm new to SSA forums but been around for a while on others. Who has run any type of isobaric set up before? The low end is efforless and immense and all from a smaller enclousere. Also the smaller cab plays the higher freqs really well and just makes for a very flat output over the whole range whilst still staying controlled. Basicly the iso' only makes use of the extra motor and has no real use of the other cone. Or even the other basket for that matter although the other basket make the whole rig easier to mount. I am thinking about a dual motor design and just simply linking the the 2 motors by extending the the formers so they meet. Who thinks this is a good idea…

I am Trying to come up with some designs for a couple amp racks, however I'm lacking creative touch I have seen a few nice ones on this site but just wanted to see if people would post some pics of theirs to give some ideas/show theirs off. I will probably be using mdf to make mine but I would like to see some of all different materials. Thanks.

ill let the pics tell the story Many Thanks too Pierce Audio Products for the Comps

Hey guys It's time for a new box and while I was looking around I came across PWK Designs. Has anyone dealt with this guy yet? Looking at his youtube videos and his official site it looks like he takes everything into account. If anyone has had a box designed by him let me know what you thought about his services and was it worth it?

I've been trying super hard to get my box calculations right. Can someone confirm these #'s?? I really hope I'm on the money. in advance. Box is 32" tall, 15" deep, and 18" wide. Port is 16.5" tall (internal), 2.25" wide, and 40" long. Looking to be 31-32hz, 2.25cu.ft. after sub and port displacement. :fingers crossed:

Pretty simple question. Anyone ever personally built and owned two 15s in a seales enclosure? Im gonna be doin It soon probably and was wondering what your results were. My box design Is around 5 cubes after displacements. They'll be two old style havoc 15s. And ill be running them on mg aq1200 until budget gets me a bigger amp or a diff box or set up. Thanks

please list your equipment and your top numbers, what year that happened, what meter, etc, and maybe what you would like to see in the future.

I just bought 4 sheets of 40x55 at 1/8" thick(or something like that) of nuprene off of ebay for 40bucks. Supposedly its used in boeing airplanes and such. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT Does anyone know anything about it? it's got to be worth over a buck a square foot so I'm not really worried about getting ripped off. Once I get it I'll let you guys know what I think, should work well in a car. but I doubt that dynamat used that statement the guy had in his ad. thanks, b

Hi everyone. I'm a new guy here on your forum. I'm going to need some help from any REAL GOOD box designers here. I just bought (waiting for it to be shipped to me) a 15" Kicker L5 and i'm going to power it with a Hifonics BXI1206D amp. I'm currently driving a '01 Expedition and i took out the 3rd row seat so i have A LOT of space to use here. I'd like to go with a vented box, something that will give me some pounding bass but clean. This is what i'll be using: JVC KD-AVX2 headunit (2) audiovox headrest monitors DLS 5 1/4 component speakers (front) DLS 5 1/4 speakers (rear) HIFONICS BXi1206D - for sub HIFONICS ZXI6406 - for front and rear speakers KICKER L5 15" DVC 4ohm …

hey all just built my first 6th order and it came out beautifully. this was for an fi x 12 and pounds for what it is and what power im throwing to it. and illl be sure to have picks of it upp tomoro. also did my blowthrough and that was a succes as well. just wanted to say thanks for the help

i am sick of not having an SQ/SPL Hybrid class we could call it LSQ-VFL im bored with just 1 or the other anyone else like to hear the rest of the music loud enuff to mush your brain into peanut butter.... without distortion ? or as lil as possiable

When building a common chamber ported box for four subs do I take the suggested enclosure volume for the sub and multiply it by the number of subs. ex. A sub requires 1.25 cub. feet minimum. The enclosure is going to have 4 of these subs does that mean that the box should be 5 cubes since 1.25 x 4 = 5

well i ran into an issue today, which isnt TOO bad just its one of those things that dont go as planned that you gotta get around well i was going to start a portion of my new build today, or at least test fit (thank god i test fit on this and didnt run into it last minute) but i had originally planned to fit my ID CTX65cs comps in my doors, the mids are 6.5" which generally i can fit that circumfrance, however.. not that specific depth i made these rings to go on the door panel, they are 3/4" MDF, with a 1/4" flush cut out for them.. flush is king and they fit in the rings like a charm (first time i made my own rings - so i was happy) i primered them and painted em so th…

just wondering how to find out what frequency to tune a box to? do you base it off fs?

Since my local box builder seems to think he needs $270 to build my sub box I decided to tackle it myself. I have been reading up on box building when I came across a forum that suggested making a box panel that sandwiched a layer of cork inbetween 2 layers of mdf. Another suggestion was to use sand inbetween 2 layers. As the latter isn't feasible, I am interested in the cork option since it is fairly cheep. I understand that the cork is supposed to help dampen the box. Has anyone utilized this practice? Or are they blowing smoke? They also suggested using dynamat instead of cork, but that seems a bit pricey.

So I come today bearing questions... I have two ideas for a system and really am at a standstill and could use some advice. Both ideas will be forward firing with the truck sealed off from the front. My first idea is two 12's in a sealed box. Due to the fact that the max height in the trunk is 12.5in, I would have to tilt the sub back to make it fit, and for the sake of visuals, tilting them inward at the same time. I would prefer this setup, but due to limited resources, I'm not sure if I could cut any mdf with the angled edges required to achieve this. So this leads to my second idea... If I ran two 10in subs, I could run them straight up and down, and I could port them…

Well, because i will be removing the weight issue in my car soon, nothing stands in my way now for my next build so i need anyone's opinions on the strongest build u can think of. Any negative thoughts about any methods is 100% welcome as i don't want something that will fail. Here is one method i have been thinking about but remember, i'm looking for the best option(within costs, hehe, dont wanna spend several grand on an enclosure) Option1- Lay 2x4s on their side(so 3.5" thick) all the way around the car. Then inside of this chamber, lay 1 layer of 3\4" Oak inside. Install Angle Iron outside of the enclosure and weld 1\8" thick steel bars to all corners of the Angle Ir…

I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus, currently with 2 Kicker Comp 12s, which were my first install. I've been looking to upgrade to (significantly) more powerful drivers for a while now and I've recently taken on the job of research. I talked to a local Audiophile Loudspeaker company and he recommended TC Sounds LMS-R 12s. After reading reviews, I've noticed that their performance, while good, can be hit or miss. I did some more research and stumbled upon the AA Havoc 12s. These interested me more because of the (almost) 100% positive reviews and thumbs ups for SPL AND SQ. I'm looking to run these off of a Kicker ZX2500.1, giving them the 1250 RMS they're rated for (not overpower…

as of right now i am sound dampening, already heavily dynomated but not enough for me personally. so i am covering the interior with mdf and foaming between the mdf and all metal. the back wall will be about 3"soild, needless to say i want solid. i am going to have the subs facing up behind the two front seats, i have 12.9 cu ft gross and 10.77 net cu ft of space to work with. the box will be constructed from 1.5" mdf and internally braced with 5/8" all thread. the plan is to have an interchangable port set-up for SQ and SPL for compitition. if anyone has any ideas i would like to hear them, this is the first time i have ever used soundsplinter subs. my last sub i ha…

i have been killin myself trying to figure out a box design for my ranger and have gotten nowhere with it. i got a couple reply's on other forums but nothing set in stone. the sub is a 15"btl and my dem are 50" wide x 16 tall x 16 deep, 5.9cf before sub displacement and port displacement. i need it to have ports on both sides of the sub cause i want the sub in the center of the box (its that way to even out the weight in the truck). i would like it tuned to around 33-34hz.. any help on figuring my port length would be great. please put in laymans terms cause i am not very bright when it comes to this kinda stuff. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks btw the sub…