SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Sup guys...we're having a compeition coming here on the 6th...it'll be on DBTV so check it out!! I won't be using my car...I'll be using a friends Durango. Going to use a Orion H2 15.2 and a 2500D. Basically building the system for this comp because that would never fit in my t-bird. I'll start posting pics as I build the system and will post results and some video on what I hit on the 6th. Any guesses?? I"m thinking low 140's....I have no clue what it'll do. HCCAfan are you currently running H2's?

hi, i planned to do a wall setup and the vehicle will be a 4-door Toyota Landcruiser. The wall will be as close as possible with the front seats but not up to compromising seating comfortably. How do you seal off the portion where there is window? i see that the front wall will be sitting halfway of the rear passenger door window. thanks

I'm considering the soundqubed hdc4 15. I'm not sure what order this is, or anything like that as i am a complete noob to building a box to specs. I've built more than a hundred enclosures in my life, but never one to exact measurements. they've always sounded good. in fact, I've had people ask how many 15's i had, when it was just 1 12. I've blown 2-12's & 2-15's out of the water with just 1 12 on multiple occasions. different boxes, cars, subs, etc... now onto my question. i plan on making the top of the enclosure 6" away from the sub. of course the port is going to be around 4x8 or 10 but i was wondering if 6" is enough room for that sub. the enclosure is 40x18x1…

Alright so ive been doing spl for three years now on a team and I just bought two new dd audio digital designs m3b amps strapped on my incriminator audio 18ns and well after playing one song for a short period of time they locked up and burnt the coils are these speakers really true too there power because I was told they could handle 3000 whatts each easy and I dont have the right current going too them I have two 100 batts in back and a heavy duty alt thats running 14.6 volts and drops too 12.8 on lows please help me im beyound frustrated at this point.

I am looking for a good place to go to learn about building crossovers. Not only how but what components to look for, theory on how different setups affect sound, anythng and everythng.

Anyone know where I can look at pics of pods? I'm having some started today for my jeep. I'm not building them myself. Is there anything I need to be aware of or tell the person making them? I don't know jack about them. I'm installing my Kicker RS6.5 component set in there. I'll probably mount the tweeter in the co-ax. Any comments, opinions? Me competiting in db drag street class means I can't have anything large or alot of glass on my door.

ok im making my first attempt at a custom box. its for 1 sd12 in the trunk of a honda accord planing on sub facing back and ports facing up to go through the rear deck. plywood (no mdf at local building store) 3/4 inch depth 18" w 20" h 14" port (1) L 12" dia.3 if my calculations are right box is 2.21 ft3 tuned to 34.15 sub displacement is .10 so that should net me a 2.11ft3 box (damn i hate math) am i anywhere close? or even headed in the right direction? any input would be great cause right now its in a cookie cutter Q-logic box (1.5 ported and its starving for air) thanks guys and gals

Hey guys i'm building my first my box for three fi bl 12's and want to tune it to 31-33 and was wondering which would be better? Sealed,ported, or banpass?? Any suggestions would be helpful

Today im going to build my 1st box for the fully loaded fi bl 12in. Im going to be using 3/4in thick mdf fiber board. Would i have to use braces to hold the box, its just one 12in, and also i have a Sundown sae 1200d amp. Is it capable of producing 1500watts rms. What would you have to adjust the amp to to have a good, loud sound? I have a Stinger amp kit 0 gague, and extra 25 feet of 0 gauge wire for the big # upgrade, and i also have a kinetic battery the khc 1600. Just recentley my friend got his system installed. He has the same equipment as i do, but he has the FI Q. Let me tell you, it is LOUD AS HELL, For just one 12inch... omg i could barely breath. To be honest i…

I recently found my Visonik 12" woofer and i decided to build a box for it. I have ~$120 for supplies so nothing elaborate. My plan is a little under 4cuft (before displacement) tuned at ~26hz. I would like to use aero ports. The woofer is rated at 250rms, but handled 400rms from my RF200.2 like a champ. I have ~140wrms of clean power to play with, from my HT amp (Samsung HT in a box, very nice system for $220, on sale) I am switching it out for the current woofer, the 8" that is currently in the corner. My parents always turn the sub level way down when they watch movies (frustrating lol) So its mostly for my chopped and screwed music, that i can't fit on my iPod shuffle…

I have built a few MDF sealed boxes and now im building something to fit underneath my truck seat so I'll have to use fiberglass AND it will be my first ported box. How do i go about building the baffle inside the box?

Most of you know that there was another vehicle added to the fleet. 1999 GMC burban. Now the old 97 DUBurban had a massive 8ft^3 enclosure in it and housed 2 Brahma 15's. 4000W amp running them. Well this time its all about saving space and keeping everything stealth. My plan is to flip the spare tire around and glass the inside of the rim. Then i'll glass a mdf enclosure onto that so i can get my needed air space. Right now ive got only 4" of cargo area taken up by the enclosure because its to tall and wide. Sub will be my 12.o.44 sealed running off of my autotek 5600X. Bro will be doing the glassing work since he has the experience. No idea when this will all take place…

To burp a sub would I just go wth a bigger amp and turn the gain up and give it a burst for 5 seconds or so?

I think i wanna run a buss bar only across the ground terminals of 3 batts in the rear of my vehicle. I can't safely run one for both power and ground if you are wondering. Anyway, the reason why i would want to run one for ground is so i can just run all 3 of my amps ground out to the batt's ground buss bar. This way i can run multi runs of ground wires off of the buss bar, let's say 2 runs of 1/0 off the left and 2 runs of 1/0 off the right. Where exactly do i go to get one and how do i know if it's thick enough... if it'll fit on my batts, etc... they are for kinetiks so i know i can take the posts out of the batt to bolt it back down. I found a site that was selling a…

Ok, i thought i had tested enough as to how exactly i am going to build and face my box but maybe i'm wrong so i'm going to buy this meter - http://cgi.ebay.com/186-db-SPL-SOUND-LEVEL...1QQcmdZViewItem They say that it is calibrated just like some other top of the lines including the new Termlab sensors. I would buy a TL but not for the price they want for just building the best box for my money. All you do with this thing is hook it up to a DMM and the voltage it outputs, you look at this chart to see your Db reading. It is accurate down to 1\1000th of a volt AND Db so that's interesting. The slightest change can be detected which is great. So, here in the near future…

So, i am HOPING this is the final box design for my SPL-15 as I am going ot buy some MDF here in a couple hours. HOWEVER i just thought since this is my very first box design done by myself I would throw it up here for you'all to check out and let me know what you think. Nothing Fancy, just a simple ported box....

hi all i was just looking at a cabin gain chart and saw that most vehicles had about 25 db of gain at 25 hz but at 30 hz dropped to about 20 dbs of gain so that got me wondering if i would be better off tuning my box to 25 hz than to 30 hz because of this gain. JW. also does anyone have or know where i can find a cabin gain chart on an 01 tacoma single cab because the chart i have doesnt so i used a dakota instead thanks mike

I hear that areo ports "trick" the box into thinking that it actually has more port area than it actually has. Is there some type of calculation so I can figure out the effective port area of an Aero Port? Thanks

Lets say you have a 6.0 cu.ft. box and you have woofer displacement of .38 cu.ft. Now you have a net volume of 5.62 cu.ft. before port displacement. How do you know how to calculate the port length if you dont know the exact box size since port displacement have to be considered. I know how to calculate port displacement but i am not sure about calulating port length with a changing box volume as the port size vary. Can someone help me understand how this is done please. I know to some of you this is a dumb question but am just looking for some help and wanting to understand how its done and not mess up any more designs. Looked through the forum but couldnt find the info …

I would like to know what is the most accurate way to calculate QTC of a sealed enclosure. For example in WinISD i have the specs for my speaker in there and in a 1.2ft^3 it gives me a QTC of .704 In BBP6 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure it gives me a QTC of .56 And Calculating it from the formulas on these two sites. http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/sealed1.htm http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=29 They give me a QTC of .62 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure. So I would like to know which way is right?

OK, so I've decided to try out a box using round ports for my 18" nightshade, so i can make the ports interchangeable for comps and daily. I'm using a Hifonics Brutus 1600d amp. i figure the box should be about 5 cubes since the amp isn't that powerful and i want to get a lot of output. i want to use 2 6" diameter pieces of PVC. i am going to do some testing to figure out where my port should be tuned at for spl, but my question is that if i want to keep the box at 5 cubes how big should i make it to make sure its still 5 cubes after the displacement of the ports? i have been looking all night trying to figure this out. i found that if my box is 5 cubes i should use 2 6" …

So As I've been tired of looking at how my subwoofers look,(well the looks), then I've decided to make a custom ported box...only difference I'm going to fiberglass it so it's not going to be cubed anymore...so I'm trying to find out my volume so I can calculate all the port things...

ok ill give a quick run down of what i would like to do.. i would like to build an upside down L box.. with the slot port going into my cabin.. and my subs on the long part of the L inverted. to save space and show off motor... here is a pic of my trunk. the top part is is 10 tall... 19 deep and 41 wide. from the floor to the step level is 14 and from the floor to the top lip is 26 and i want to port thru the rear deck ill cut this all away i know its kinda hard to picture what im talkin about... ill come up with some sketches of what i would like.. but im wondering WILL IT WORK!!> i need some where around 3 cubes and tuned to 30htz thanks guys, ps. not…

I am currently waiting on my 1st xcon and want to run 2 eventually but don't know if I can. I can slide a 31W x 12 3/4H x 29D through the rear seat opening. That is about the max size i can do through the seat opening i could go an extra half inch in the sides and maybe an inch on height but would be tight squeeze. Also i want ported if possible. Thanks for any help.