SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i have a 92 s10 blazer and i want to put a single 15" sundown d2 and i want to build a spl box but i will use this as a daily driver does anyone have blueprints or pics of any boxes for this setup?

I currently have my 15 L7 mounted in a 1.5ft.^3 sealed enclosure powered by a RF Power 1001db 1000watts @ 2ohm in my brothers semi truck it's a international 9400i with a bunk bed sleeper, it has mb quarts 6.5 components up front and 5.25 coaxial in the rear powered by a zapco ag360 with a clarion dxz 575 head unit. My goal is to get real loud and maybe enter competition in the future and upgrading to two L7's or even 2 fi 15 bl's and space is not problem. i listen ti wide range of music but mostly reggae, hip-hop, r&b, rap, pop, and some classics, its my first time building a ported box but i have experience in building sealed, so it would helpful if you guys could h…

i have i box that i need to find out what it's volume is and what it is tuned at. it is made of 3/4" mdf and has a double baffle. outside dimensions are: H 23 1/4" W 20" D 45" inside port dimensions are: H 5" W 18 1/2" D this i am not sure which measurement i need if i measure from the face of the port to the back wall it is 44 1/4" deep if i am to measure the length of the wall which divides the box to form the port it is 38 3/4" deep there is a 45% in the back of the port. thanks in advance for the help. would like to learn how to do these calculations also. perhaps if some one had the extra time i would love to see it drafted up into…

I just got a box design confirmed by a few of my friends that it will work.. Now I do not have the space for it (doh). It is literally a few inches too big to fit in my trunk. Pretty much it is a 4 cuFt box tuned to 30hz using two removable aeroports. One removed keeps the tuning at 30hz, two in makes the tuning 44hz for comps. Now my question is what if I use pvc piping (I heard its not as loud because its not flared) and instead of having it come straight out, make a 90 degree angle as soon as it leaves the box... Anybody know what this would do for tuning? Or how to figure out with a box calculator what it may do?

Well chaps I'm not 100% happpy with the SPL of my box, its 16.5cuft before displacement, and tuned onto 30hz, port area is 8.3in^2 per cuft, now recommended space for the subs is 6.5 per driver, and I presume port area should be 10^2inches per cuft, so should I line the entire inside of the box with an extra skin of MDF(flex is another issue except on the front baffle) this will reduce area, and also should I change the port for a larger one on the same tuning?? Any advice greatly appreciated lads

Has anyone used eDead for sound dampening. I know that their subwoofers arent great, is this true with their dampening materials as well? I won't pay the outrageous price for Dynamat, I can't afford to spend $400+ to do my car. I can get eDead for .80 cents per square foot. Even if i had to double it up, it would still be considerably cheaper than Dynamat, Second Skin, etc. What do you guys think?

I plan on building a box in the near future. Which of these would be best to build with and if there is any sound difference between them? Thanks, Matt Cusack

I hear that areo ports "trick" the box into thinking that it actually has more port area than it actually has. Is there some type of calculation so I can figure out the effective port area of an Aero Port? Thanks

First i would like to say thanks to everyone that is competing this year and promoting their organization of choice, and also would like to thank people who are going out of their way to promote the industry as well. I also wanna thank anyone coming back into the lanes to give em hell, to do what they know best, and that is GETTING LOUD! And with this, I would like to thank ALMA for joining our small group here. Hope you enjoy your stay and hope you can give out some good info to the newer crowd on what you have seen and where you might forecast where we are all heading. Anyone wanting to learn more about Team Gates or ALMA can either post here or visit her website a…

I know Trupan is lighter, but more expensive, has anyone used it and how did you like it over MDF? Does it "sound" different?

I am about to start a build log (finally) but I want to get some final suggestion(s) on my Front stage. It's going in a 1998 Honda Civic 2-door coupe. Big 3 in 1/0. 170 amp alt. XS Power D680 and D5100R (front)-1/0. 4 gauge to amps from D680 that is in the rear. Kenwood 942HD head unit, I use the cross-over controls on the head unit. Previous setup...Kenwoods 5 1/4 co-axials...Front....Pioneer 6X9's in rear. (in car when I brought it) 2 ch 2 ohm (200x2) on the Sundown 125.2 I didn't like it...sounded OK (on mainly Pop and Hip hop) , the rear was always louder than the front stage (which was irritating at times). It wasn't very balanced. I listen to all music Jazz…

Is there any audible difference between using a enclosure that's using a (sub forward, port forward) and a (sub up, port forward) enclosure. I'm thinking of several options for my first system

Now I gott figure out the volune but my wierd ass box isnt liek any of the calulators boxes

My plan is to use 3 fans as a just in case precaution the way how i am making my new floor in my car to house my amps. I will be contacting a couple companies tomorrow but before that time comes, lets see if anyone knows this- Can pc case fans be used in my car? I ask this because of the following- All these case fans i'm looking at are rated as follows- Rated voltage= 12v Starting voltage= 6v (there is only 2 lines on the fan, +12v and -12v so 6v gots me lost... Anyways, i do not know the voltage tolerance of pc case fans... My voltage runs at 14.9v. PSUs typically are set to a max of 10% + or - on any voltage line before they shut down. This means a pc fan could never …

Just starting to get really into car audio...Bought the Fi BL 18 last year and put it in a 4.0 cubic ft box running around 1100 RMS (i know its a small box, but its in a trunk).. haven't driven in over year, but about to start back up. My question is what makes the bass sound so different.. I mean my friend had 2 12's in a smaller box and his just sounds so clean and clear, while it sounds crisp inside, on the outside the car it really isn't banging like it is in the inside. My set up however just sounded mean and powerful inside the car and fairly loud on the outside..I've heard the terms (clean bass) and (dirty bass) before, but I'm not exactly sure what is meant by t…

Kinda sad. Been looking to get into competing but all the organizations I have looked @(dBDrag, USACi, IASCA, and MECA) don't have comps around the Indiana area. All are in Ohio and what not. I don't mind traveling a state or so but why no shows in IN?

Whats up guys. I am going to try to build my own box. I have only built like 2 before, but I want to give it another try. I was wondering who can I Pay to design a box for me for 2 15" Type R's... If you are interested, or have worked with these before please let me know, or send me a PM.. Thanks. Steve-o

What is the best way to determine the frreq of a box? How do you calculate the Hz it will be tuned to?

I Currently have 2 12" Memphis Audio PR's in a dual ported box powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 with stock electrical. The system is in a 2011 Mazda 3 Sedan. I have been wanting to play around with new subs and I got a crazy good deal on a single 12" Kicker CVR CompVR Series sub with a sealed box that fits two 12" subs with their own chamber. When I ask this question, keep in mind that I want to keep my stock electrical. I am trying to find either a single or two subs that will get pretty loud off stock electrical. I want something that will get loud and I'm leaning more towards SPL. Should I build a custom box for the single 12" or should I sell the sub and the box and use t…

This is a goal to reach 150db tuned for a daily driver. I've been doin some measurements and have came up with a box design that has me smiling and this will be the last box i will build for the car... unless i downgrade later. This is my last attempt to try and reach 150db with a daily tuned setup and i'm crossin my fingers because this is only with 2 15s and 4,400w of power. Here is the wild design- Remove back seats, where back seat was, install a wall there sealed off from the hatch area. Now, i have 33" of depth from this wall to the back of the front seats. The box design would consist of 2 15s ported facing toward the wall. There is an 8" gap from the front baffle …

Well, i saw something that made me think of this, so i made it, it is a box design, with 2 ports, that go out of the... front (same side as woorfer) and then come to a port directly above the woofer... its weird. lol any comments? lol

If the port area is 32.5in^2 how long do I need to make it to get 30-31hz??? This is for my 12" DCON.

So Im designing a new enclosure and have come across a speed bump. Using the12volt slot port length calculator with these numbers: 24, 4, 6.13, 32= 33.13in Using carstereo.com port length calculator with the same numbers for a square slot port= 21.13in But when you change the option of slot port from yes to no, the new calculation is exactly 33.13in Why do they not match for the same thing? Shouldnt a square vent be shorter than a slot port? Did carstereo.com just flip flop them or something? Am I taking crazy pills or what?

what are the best bolts to use as terminals on a subwoofer box, and where can it be found thanks

i drive a 2000 4 dr honda accord. i was just wondering like who has built what type of enclosure, and what they have tuned it to to get best LSQ reults. currently i have a small 800Wrms amp on the way. subs are still under debate. what would pound hard in my car and what would you reccoment for a sub, under the 400 dollar price range.i am on a budget.