SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hey guys one of my buddies says a nice cheap effective meathod for sound deadening is resisto found in roofing sections in homehardware stores... apparently its not as good as the top dynamat or raammat but he says its pretty much the same stuff as fatmat which is cement based (not Butyl). can anyone confirm? i would be real interested to use this stuff (if it works) on my trunk lid and a bit of the back of my trunk to stop trunk raddling. thx -phil

I am building a full system for a friend in her trailblazer and need a little guidance to make sure I'm on the right path. She listens to 90% country music and about 10% classic rock. She likes loud but nothing over the top. I pretty well have the front stage sorted. Deleting rear speakers. Have a pretty head unit picked out lol. Front stage amp is done. Which leaves me with the sub and enclosure. Previous set up she had was a single 10" kicker comp in a sealed enclosure on 300 watts in a trunk. What she did not like about it was the output was a little weak and it lacked the tight impact she was looking for. Her requirements are small footprint and $150 or less. I c…

Ok, I just want to know some of your guys experiences with t-nuts or huricain nuts, wich ones hold better? The screws I am using are not holding well in mdf so I need to get somthing stronger

My question is, is it worth it to double up on 3/4" mdf on all sides, or should i just strengthen the side holding the sub? 18" Fi Bl--- p chamfer and flatwind 39"x18"x22" (sub is on 39x22 side) tuned to 34.4xxx hz any suggestions? thanks. also, this is a daily driver, not going to a termlab anytime soon, just want it to be a good, solid setup for daily driving.

Was just wondering if anyone has built a series 6th order for a 12" or 15" ZCON. Would be interested in any enclosure specs and experiences you could share. Thanks.

What do they look like and are they good? i ask cause i have someone willing to build one in a trade for a DD2512...

Ok I've been doing a lot of research on standard 6th order bandpass boxes, and haven't found enough information to decide if its better than standard ported for spl. If I tune a 6th order with a very narrow high output passband, such as 39hz rear and 44hz front, or in this general region, will it be louder than a ported box with a similar tuning? From what I've seen the 6th order will boost output higher, but it strains the subwoofer more and lowers power handling, so it has more output but you can put less power to it so they balance out... I want to try one out but if you guys think it wont be louder than just ported for spl use only then it's not worth trying. Also I…

Well I pulled the trigger and I got 2 evil 18s. A lot of my friends are telling me 4th order bandpass I'm not completely sold on doing it. One of my friends has the same Subs and paid for a custom design for his vehicle where sealed is 5.5 cubes ported is 14.8. SSA recommends 4.5 - 6.25 sealed. I realize that is strictly for a sealed box, but my question is that 5.5 that they have designed for him is only big enough for 1 sub. Is the design rules different with 4th orders? I'm leaning more towards just a regular ported but my thought process was for an extra 2-3cu tops why not have the same set up?

I've recently wanted to start making a horn style box, I've build one on accident before, but didnt know it was a horn box. Now im just needing some advice or basic tips on building and tuning of them.

i have a 89 chevy 1500 standard cab and am tryin to design a box that will fit behind the seat. Anybody on here have any expericence with these vehicles and enclosures like this?

I've been trying to find a 12 that would give me the best output for my 350z....so obviously I don't have a ton of space but I'm thinking 2.5 cubes before displacement. I don't know a lot about this stuff so I thought I would come on here and ask. I was either thinking a xcon or a sundown Z maybe or soundqubed to save some money. Any opinions on what I should do would be great. I forgot to mention that the amp is a older nine.1 which is about 1500 rms at 1ohm.

I'm redoing my box for 3-10" (or 3-12" not sure yet). Now currently my port is down low facing the dash. The current box is a TON louder with all the windows down vs up. I know this is normal sometime, but I don't like driving around disturbing everyone with them down, lol. So I was wondering if moving the port would help or make a difference? Port up with the subs, port back towards the back wall of the truck, or try it again with the new box faceing towards the dash again? Just an idea of what it looks like at this time. You can see the "box" at the bottom. It's an "semi-external" with 8" outside & 4" inside to save some space.

i would like to congradulate chris and rick for going to finals. and placing 10th in the world for ss1-2. it's good to see someone from up here to actually make it. now lets see what they are going to do next year. saggs

Hey all.I was wondering if my port is to close to my rear hatch.My friends and I both seem to think my system should be louder and I seem to think that it might be my port being to close to my rear hatch and not having enough room to breathe.My system consists of a DC 5k and 4 10" DC lvl 3 m2 subs with the level 4 upgrades.My enclosure was made by DC Creations and is 4.5 cubes after displacments (I believe) and tuned to 33hz.Here is a pic of what im talking about with the port.I can take a better pic if need be.So what im wondering is if I flip the box around with the port facing into the cabin instead of towards the hatch,would it help out any or would a enclosure with s…

edit denim: temp. removed due to non members leaching, not cool but huge props to shane for being nice enough to post it up for us

I plan on doing some dynamat here soon, would it be worth also filling my panels and/or doors with polyfil? What effects will it have?

So here is the story. I finally have all of the stuff I need to install my saz2500d. Took box out, 4.75^3. Big for my s-10 3 door. Basically an extended cab with a door. Have the zcon's ready to drop in. Put empty box back in to see where I could put my amp and this is where I run into a problem. Box goes from floor to 2" below back window. From driver side door to 5-6" from other side. With subs installed there is 12" of room on top of box. Amp would hang over about 5" or so. The port is on the passenger bottom. If I mount it on the box overhanging the open port side, would that be a problem? What about mounting it inside the box? The port is 20" wide and 24" long. Plent…

Vehicle : 2003 VW Passat Location in the vehicle: Trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): w1- 39, w2-42, h1-15.5, h2-19.5, d-25 Subwoofer make and model: Custom, similiar to the Sundown X but more motor force, excursion and lower fs Subwoofer Size:12 Number of Subwoofers:2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Up for suggestions but thinking about aero to save space What type of music do you like?: Chopped and screwed, decafs low stuff (about 18-35hz) Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Tuning Freq (Hz): To be determined - probably around 26 Volume : 5-7 cubes depending on tuning, port and bracing. Questions: I want to first start out saying I blew m…

Can someone check my work, to verify I am gaining maximum beneficial value from the bracing? From my understanding the bracing has two primary functions, other than structural support. To keep two panels from having the same resonate frequency, and to break up standing waves. Is there any adjustments I should make? Will I benefit from routeing the bracing edges round? Should I add a few randomly placed triangle braces? Remove the diagonals from the center brace? This is my first enclosure with matrix bracing, so I could have a big red flag in there and wouldn't know it. The enclosure is built for two SSA 15" Icons sealed, running 2000 watts total. The final …

I will be installing a budget audio system in my 2008 Hyundai Elantra four door. I will be running a three way front stage. I am using Viper Audio 650.2 passive component set. They are metal dome tweeters with 6.5" midrange and crossovers. The tweets are harsh and the 6.5's lack midbass. I picked them up bnib cheap.... I will be using a Boss REV-665 four channel for power. Again got the amp cheap..... Channel 1&2 for the component set and channel 3&4 for 6.5" woofers. Mounting: tweeters in A-pillars aimed at each other, 6.5's midrange in custom kick panels aimed at dome light, 6.5 woofer in bottom of front doors mounted behind factory door panels and aimed at each…

I need a ported sub box to around 33 Hz for an xcon .. I have 12.5 H x 32 W x 14 D to work with. I have a metal brace on the floor of my car that I need to work around. I've hit up ram design and he said he was to busy at the time , Dave the box guy never replied back .. and all the audio shop stores I go to say they can build it but the lowest tuning they can do is 60 Hz wich is bullshit. any help is greatly appreciated

here we go Here you go. more to come Later

Ok well I'm building my new box for one SA-12 it's gonna be 2.48 cu. before port and sub displacement.I'm gonna use one 4" aeroport.It's gonna be sub back port side going in a trunk car tell me what ya'll think?

I'm adding a budget sub stage to my girlfriends 99 Chevy Blazer. It will be 2 powerbass PS-12's on a 600 watt el cheapo amp. Her main choices of music are mainly alternative rock (Matchbox Twenty, Weezer, Audioslave, etc), and country. My question is, what would be the optimal enclosure for this listening style? Would sealed be best for this setup, or a slightly high tuned ported one? (If so, what frequency?) The goals of this system is not necessarily major output, but mainly just adding a good sounding blended sub stage. She doesn't need it to be super loud, but she does want some decent output to be there when she wants it. I will be installing a bass knob for her so s…

So Ive got what looked like a decent box on paper (BBP6) but once built is quite depressing and seems to be choking the sub. It sounds decent but just leaves the thought that so much more could be gotten from it, but Im not all that great with designing boxes, every now and then a good one pops up. Another member gave me the idea to build the box in a way that the sub would angle some to fire more towards the rear glass and have the port fire back, if anyone is willing to toss in some input or maybe help with a design that would be greatly appreciated. Space to work with is 17.5" tall, 24" deep, and if possible 28" wide but could get up to 36" wide if I relocate the spare…