SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm gonna build a new box for two 12's and was thinkin about porting it through the rear deck with two 4" ports with the subs at an angle to the back.What do yall think about that?

I am currently building a new setup and I am torn on how to tune my box. I will be running 2 18" Fi BTL N2's, 2 Hifonics 2600.10's, and 4 XS D2400's. I am posting to get feedback on which setup would be best, going with a spl setup and tune my box around 32-35 Hz, or go with a wave setup and tune my box around 25-28 Hz.? Feedback and oppinions are needed thanks.

Hey guys, I'm starting to design my system that I'm going to be putting together this summer. I wanted subs that have """SQL""" type features, which is why I'm thinking the 12" xcons are the best way to go. The box design I have come up with is going to go in my 2002 Hyundai XG350L. I am going to seal it off from the trunk, and have the port coming through where the backseat center armrest folds down. sort of a skipass type thing. I believe that I will be running either a SAZ-3500 or an AQ3500 but I will make the decision when its time to purchase. Let me know what you guys think, weather or not it will work. I don't know if I should put 45's in or not a…

Has anyone done any TL testing with a vehicle before bracing and after bracing? Mainly looking for daily driver type results. I've added sound deadening to my vehicle (2002 volvo v40), in hopes of getting rid of rattles and other annoyances. I haven't applied any treatment to the roof yet. Once I have the subwoofers playing, I'll be able to tell if / how much it needs to be deadened & braced. I'm just toying with the idea of bracing the roof with 1/8" steel strips, bracing door sheet metal, and other flexing panels across the vehicle. So not doing any stripper poles, or bolting shut doors. Just curious if it would be worth it, if there would be an audible increase in …

This is what happens when you get wood cut at home depot. I got all my cuts at home depot and some are 1/16 to short. they wasnt using the regular saw. i was wondering can i use some sealer tape for the cracks?

As per title lads, with my equipment coming soon I wanna go with the loudest design possible, will be using 2 AA Mayhems with 2 Hifonics 2607D's to power them, have a nice bit of room to play around with (say a max of 25-30cuftexternal) Will I go flat wall Port up top?? Flat wall port drivers wide?? Clam?? Small Tunnel?? I'm not really pushed about numbers as I want this to rattle people (will tune to maybe 30-32hz) All suggestions welcome guys

This is what happens when you get wood cut at home depot. I got all my cuts at home depot and some are 1/16 to short. they wasnt using the regular saw. i was wondering can i use some sealer tape for the cracks?

Hello all, I have discovered I am going to have to build a new enclosure for my subwoofer to fit in the current vehicle I drive to work. The car is an early 80's sedan with a large but shallow(height) trunk and I do not really care if I have much space left over. I am pretty good at building things and have no problems making a pretty elaborate box, so my question is: In the trunk of a car like this what is the best enclosure to build without walling off the backseat? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Mr_Jones

I was doing a dry build of sub enclosure yesterday and I decided to see how the kreg jig would work on some scraps. I wasn't able to find a bit long enough and small enough to pre drill and the wood split. My question is can I use"L" brackets instead and how good would they work? Second question what sealer to use? I'm not going to be able to seal the top panel because I will have to put my subs in when I put the front baffles on and I will not be able to get to the top inside corners what should I do?

im makiing a temp system for now in my 95 grand prix. i am needing help on how much port area is ideal for these subs. going to be pushed by a alpine mrp1000 at 2 ohms. the sub is a brand new alpine type r 12. thank you for your time.

im building a box for a Pioneer TS-W1207D4: 1.65 cu ft 3"x5.5'' port displacement: 0.076 the box ive built is about 1.9ft^3 without any displacements. i'm assuming the 3"x5.5" is the port area and i just need to calculate the length? if so, how long do i need the port for ~35-38hz?

Hey fellas quick question, I was talking to co-worker and he was telling me about Obcon subwoofer enclosures. So I looked them up. They are using a concept called labyrinth porting. I ordered a Sundown SA-12D2 a few days ago and the recommended eclosure size is 1.75^3 tuned to 30 hz. The box I'm looking at is 1.8^3 tuned to 38 hz. Has any used these enclosures or heard some one that was using them. If so just wondering what your opinions or impressions of them are. Your opinions are valuable to me because of everyone's knowledge on this forum. Thanks ahead of time for any opinions. Also if I decide to go sealed would it be ok to run a slighly larger than recommended seale…

Im thinking about building a new box to try and improve sq in my setup a little. i have a 3.75 cu ft box with like 60 inches of port tuned to 32 now, slot port on one side of the two subs. this box is a little bigger than what my subs call for and is an awful lot of port area. im thinking about bringing the box down to 3.2 or smaller and using a 8 round port and flaring the ends tuning to 32. if my math is right 8 is 50 sq inches of port correct? im thinking about choking it down to 7" which is like 38~ and run @ 3 cu ft. im running like 1600-2000 watts BXI2006d would the round port sound better. as with the smaller box? edit" running 2 DC audio lvl4 12s. call for 1.5 c…

Hi guys, i have a trunk car (2004 Camry) and right now my setup is sub/port back. I have experimented with placing the box closer to the front of the trunk (closer to the back seat) or further back (near the rear bumper), so far my car rattles less and sounds louder when closer to the bumper.. Question I had was, would I gain anything if I flipped my box so that the port/sub was firing into the cabin? if I am listening to the sub at high volume I usually fold the rear seats down to allow more air to move... Wanted to know if anyone with my car or a similar setup has tried this and what results they had before I manhandle a 100lb box and re-wire my amps etc.. thanks!

Hello , I need a new box design for a friend. It is for a Soundstream XXX sub in 18". Power : a Soundstream XXX 15000 amp !!! It is too much, but it's what my friend have bought !!! He'll have to turn the gain down for daily listening. He wants to compete in spl but needs to be able to listen to music. Can he have a way to change tuning / port easily ? The box will be like a wall, panels will be added to the sides of the box to make it look & act like a real wall ! Here are the max dimensions : 38.58" (Height) x 35.43" (Width) x 31.49" (Depth). If it is too big, we can have it smaller, just tell us. He wants 45's in all corners, and some kind of slot port. No tube …

i had a post earlier about this when i planned on making my sub box. however... i made the box bigger to 5 CuFt now and im curious if i could still be ok with (3) 4" aero ports instead of ordering up one more? :thanx:

Let me start by showing what I've done and what I'm trying to finish with... I'm planning on hot gluing wooden dowels to the fiberglass panel up to a wood speaker ring. Then wrap a big piece of cloth around the speaker ring to the back of the fiberglass panel, then stable the cloth around the ring, and glass the cloth, etc. Only problem I'm running into is, when I wrap the cloth around the ring and fiberglass, how do I staple down the cloth, since there won't be any wood to staple into on the back of the fiberglass panel. Could I glue small strips of cardboard to the back of the fiberglass and staple into that? Sorry if I'm confusing.

So if you looked at my build log then maybe you can get an idea. If not then to fill you in i have a RE SX-12 in a ported box 2.0^3 at 35hz and after setting gains i am just let down by the lack of serious bump. I'm looking for a recommendation on to what route I should go to get more bump from my back seat area. It's a convertible and it's been said that a smaller enclosure may assist my needs. I have a pair of alpine type-r 12's gaining dust that would be good for a smaller enclosure if that helps any. Anyhow thanks fellas.

Hi.. this is my first build so i have little experience right now. Im getting 1 ICON 12 with either an AQ1200 or an AP1500 amp. I drive a 2000 jetta, the trunk is about 40 inches wide. I am not really sure what type of enclosure i need, the specifications for it, or where to get one so any help would be nice.

i just finished my 5 CuFt box for my fi bl 15 and i used just about every square inch of my MDF wood i had for the box. my question is if its ok to use 3/4 inch plywood for my second baffle? i have a bunch lying around and would be nice instead of buying a huge sheet of MDF i would barely use. lemme know what u guys think! Thanks!!

hi, i have two 12's i made out of wmd motors (the tripple stacked ones) and mostly sig soft parts. like i said i have two of them and two 1500 watt rockford amps. this is going into my durango. i would like to hit high numbers with these. i have tons of room back there and a 2400 bat. i just need help designing a box. thank you all in advance!! eddie g

Ok well I'm building my new box for one SA-12 it's gonna be 2.48 cu. before port and sub displacement.I'm gonna use one 4" aeroport.It's gonna be sub back port side going in a trunk car tell me what ya'll think?

I have never seen this box design before. Anyone care to explain what this does?

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

Im starting my build in about a week or so and i narrowed my design down to two options. The first option is to have the sub up firing at the rear deck with a kerfed port(s) firing back or sub up firing at the trunk lid with a kerfed port(s) firing into the cabin. after doing a lot of searching i see a lot that like the sub up port back. The reason i chose these two designs is because i cant do both sub and port back or sub back and port to the side. Which option would yield better results? I also its vehicle dependent but my box will have to be build inside the trunk so moving it around is pretty much out the question