SPL & SQ / Fabrication

im makiing a temp system for now in my 95 grand prix. i am needing help on how much port area is ideal for these subs. going to be pushed by a alpine mrp1000 at 2 ohms. the sub is a brand new alpine type r 12. thank you for your time.

Hey fellas quick question, I was talking to co-worker and he was telling me about Obcon subwoofer enclosures. So I looked them up. They are using a concept called labyrinth porting. I ordered a Sundown SA-12D2 a few days ago and the recommended eclosure size is 1.75^3 tuned to 30 hz. The box I'm looking at is 1.8^3 tuned to 38 hz. Has any used these enclosures or heard some one that was using them. If so just wondering what your opinions or impressions of them are. Your opinions are valuable to me because of everyone's knowledge on this forum. Thanks ahead of time for any opinions. Also if I decide to go sealed would it be ok to run a slighly larger than recommended seale…

Im thinking about building a new box to try and improve sq in my setup a little. i have a 3.75 cu ft box with like 60 inches of port tuned to 32 now, slot port on one side of the two subs. this box is a little bigger than what my subs call for and is an awful lot of port area. im thinking about bringing the box down to 3.2 or smaller and using a 8 round port and flaring the ends tuning to 32. if my math is right 8 is 50 sq inches of port correct? im thinking about choking it down to 7" which is like 38~ and run @ 3 cu ft. im running like 1600-2000 watts BXI2006d would the round port sound better. as with the smaller box? edit" running 2 DC audio lvl4 12s. call for 1.5 c…

I knew this was how it was going down, so I went with it. I hoped to get solid replies on the input to my Alpine IVA-W505 HU. I do not want to run RCAs because they tend to be nasty dirty from PC, but I just might have to. Also IDK if I kept the AUX IN RCA connector for the HU. So I tried the 3.5mm LINE OUT on the PC to the 3.5mm in jack on the IVA thats usually used in conjunction with the USB... both go to one end of the iPOD Y-cord, and the other end is the jack to plug into the POD. I get no audio from the HU from the PC in USB, AUX, or AUX + IN. The rig: I dismantled the rig I built for the HT and rebuilt it for the VAN. RS meter and Audyssey mic. VIDEO REW …

Well I went to my teams shop last weekend and decided I would do a little testing with my new setup. The equipment used is a 21in warden and SAZ 3500. The vehicle is a 97 blazer. Electrical is one yellow top under the hood one extra battery in the back and 2/0 welding cable. Box is a little over 9 cubes and tuned at 40 htz. If any one would like to give feedback on how to get it louder or just comments in general everything helps. Resized to 61% (was 1024 x 768) - Click image to enlarge Also that score is at the headrest because I am in Meca and the day after that score was done i hit a 149.6 I just didn't get a picture of that one but it can be proven if need be. Like I …

Finally found a TL at a show today! Got to run a sweep finally as well. I ended up doing a 154.9 at 39z in the scorching sun after demoing my car all day! I am happy with those results with 4k on my subs ..... Skar Audio is no joke

Let me start by showing what I've done and what I'm trying to finish with... I'm planning on hot gluing wooden dowels to the fiberglass panel up to a wood speaker ring. Then wrap a big piece of cloth around the speaker ring to the back of the fiberglass panel, then stable the cloth around the ring, and glass the cloth, etc. Only problem I'm running into is, when I wrap the cloth around the ring and fiberglass, how do I staple down the cloth, since there won't be any wood to staple into on the back of the fiberglass panel. Could I glue small strips of cardboard to the back of the fiberglass and staple into that? Sorry if I'm confusing.

Hello , I need a new box design for a friend. It is for a Soundstream XXX sub in 18". Power : a Soundstream XXX 15000 amp !!! It is too much, but it's what my friend have bought !!! He'll have to turn the gain down for daily listening. He wants to compete in spl but needs to be able to listen to music. Can he have a way to change tuning / port easily ? The box will be like a wall, panels will be added to the sides of the box to make it look & act like a real wall ! Here are the max dimensions : 38.58" (Height) x 35.43" (Width) x 31.49" (Depth). If it is too big, we can have it smaller, just tell us. He wants 45's in all corners, and some kind of slot port. No tube …

I have in the past been using Loctite Heavy Duty 2part epoxy for steel to wood and steel to steel... I do not like it... It sometimes adheres good enough to steel to steel but steel to wood.. it sucks.. I have broken the bonds so many times after days of let cure... I need something GREAT!.. I had been pointed to contact cement... Is this a viable option? I have recently looked at a product claiming to be the BEST bonding agent in the world.. practically. It's called Mitrebond. It claims to glue everything to everything. They said it's actually a CA glue that has been widened for many things. Pot time is 15seconds, hehe and comes with activator. IT's $$$ for how mu…

Hi.. this is my first build so i have little experience right now. Im getting 1 ICON 12 with either an AQ1200 or an AP1500 amp. I drive a 2000 jetta, the trunk is about 40 inches wide. I am not really sure what type of enclosure i need, the specifications for it, or where to get one so any help would be nice.

So if you looked at my build log then maybe you can get an idea. If not then to fill you in i have a RE SX-12 in a ported box 2.0^3 at 35hz and after setting gains i am just let down by the lack of serious bump. I'm looking for a recommendation on to what route I should go to get more bump from my back seat area. It's a convertible and it's been said that a smaller enclosure may assist my needs. I have a pair of alpine type-r 12's gaining dust that would be good for a smaller enclosure if that helps any. Anyhow thanks fellas.

i had a post earlier about this when i planned on making my sub box. however... i made the box bigger to 5 CuFt now and im curious if i could still be ok with (3) 4" aero ports instead of ordering up one more? :thanx:

i just finished my 5 CuFt box for my fi bl 15 and i used just about every square inch of my MDF wood i had for the box. my question is if its ok to use 3/4 inch plywood for my second baffle? i have a bunch lying around and would be nice instead of buying a huge sheet of MDF i would barely use. lemme know what u guys think! Thanks!!

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

Ok well I'm building my new box for one SA-12 it's gonna be 2.48 cu. before port and sub displacement.I'm gonna use one 4" aeroport.It's gonna be sub back port side going in a trunk car tell me what ya'll think?

I am looking for good SQ 12s... I have two Skar vvx 12s now and they do not sound good at all. They shake my car like crazy but I can not feel the bass inside or out of the car.. So what kind of subs should I look for to get the best SQ in my Chrysler 300? Bass I can feel and not see!

hi, i have two 12's i made out of wmd motors (the tripple stacked ones) and mostly sig soft parts. like i said i have two of them and two 1500 watt rockford amps. this is going into my durango. i would like to hit high numbers with these. i have tons of room back there and a 2400 bat. i just need help designing a box. thank you all in advance!! eddie g

All 3 of these can be found at Home Depot. The goals i'm looking for is the best stiffness, yet no heavier than MDF (96lbs). All sheeting would be 3\4". I read and read about these sheets and i can't get any concrete info about them... I would have also done a vs Arauco but i cannot get that around here.

Does anyone in the eastern North Carolina area make kickpods or know someone who does? I'm not terribly skilled with fiberglass.

I want to know how to design my own bandpass enclosure. Can anyone link me to something to read? i wanna do 18s in my cut through but the box is going to have to be bandpass as my opening is only about 10x40. and i dont want someone to just design me one. i wanna know why the sealed chamber has to be this big and why the ported chamber has to that big and how to tune them and what not. i know its not an easy thing to grasp but you had to start somewhere... how are you guys designing them?

I am going the wall route and am in the designing stages to make sure everything is going to fit. The issue I am having is with my ports... I can get my tuning around 35 which is where I want it when there is only 4 inches ^2 of port per square inch but I know that is WAYYY low. When I get my ratio of port in^3 to box volume right my tuning ends up in the teens.... what can I do? The dimensions I'm going with are 48 inches wide, 36.5 inches tall, 33 inches front to back. I just need some help with tuning... this is going to be a daily heavily demoed setup. edit** and the port in this picture is 17x8 which is about as big as I'm going to be able to go. And this setup is f…

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-0-CU-FT-CUSTOM-PORTED-BOX-fits-KICKER-CVR15-CVX15-/160554332666?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2561c8b1fa It would be going with a Sundown nightshade. I am very curious to hear what you have to say about this, being that its from ebay. But 4.0 CU. Ft. tuned to 32 hz seem perfect. I know building one will be a little cheaper but it probably wont come out as nice and would save me the headache of building one myself. But if you recommended that I just build one myself then thats what ill do.

Im starting my build in about a week or so and i narrowed my design down to two options. The first option is to have the sub up firing at the rear deck with a kerfed port(s) firing back or sub up firing at the trunk lid with a kerfed port(s) firing into the cabin. after doing a lot of searching i see a lot that like the sub up port back. The reason i chose these two designs is because i cant do both sub and port back or sub back and port to the side. Which option would yield better results? I also its vehicle dependent but my box will have to be build inside the trunk so moving it around is pretty much out the question

I have never seen this box design before. Anyone care to explain what this does?

Hey does anyone have an SPL meter that they are selling? Or does anyone have one that lives near Akron or Cleveland Ohio that you could meter for me? I'd appreciate any help. Thanks!