SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Alright, I'm going full blow post with this. I'm tired of wasting paint. I've been painting this damn thing with color now for around two weeks. Giving plenty of time to dry between coats, wet sand, etc. and it still looks like shit. There's 6 coats of automotive primer on it before I started painting as well yet it still continues to soak in, like so. This is after around 3 coats of paint. BTW the color is deep jewel green with the metal flake in it. Same color that's on my '70 chevy. And this is after around 8 coats of paint. The picture was taken this morning moments before coat #9. So what can I do with this? I was wondering if a coat of clear over the pain…

I've thought about doing this and recently seen someone actually use this method but never commented on how good it was. In instances where all-thread cannot be used.. how about running those flat steel bars that Lowes sells on the inside of the box? Those are humanly unbendable.... it's steel. I was thinking about running those, gluing them to the box, drill out contact points, maybe 1 every 12", run bolt through to the outside, threadlock it and use a large washer on the outside of the box with a nut of course. Seal around the steel bar. These bars, if i am not mistaken, are only like 1\8th" thick. Shouldnt' that make the wall it is attached to hella strong? I see n…

What is considered the windowline in a competition vehicle? My doors and my trunk windows have a different height. Also, do they have no wall classes with a height limit vs the window rule?

hey im about to put 4 15 in a acura integra and need help building a wall

Final thoughts before I start building this for my sealed trunk wall? I am going to be putting in a Zv4 15" running on a BE.2500. Will it be alright for the total port area to be 12 in^2 more than the recommended? Thank you.

I posted this on another forum and I would like to hear the thoughts from the gurus on here as well I have been ready through pages and pages of threads on adding rear fill to help maximize the front stage. After understanding how rear fill is used for this application many folks (including myself) have been thinking how to acquire the necessary L-R. On a side not L-R seems to be the most common method although there appears to be other methods for generating a rear fill signal which require a fancy processor. The MiniDSP 2x4 has a plug-in Rear/Center Channel. This plug-in gives you the generated L-R signal, xover, 31 band eq, and up to 27ms of delay. You can al…

What are the benefits of using aeroports rather than a standard port? Are there any negatives? Just trying to learn a bit more before I waste my time building a new box. Thanks for the help guys

I recently found this box picture: I love how the port and the edges are rounded. I'm guessing that on the edges that they achieved that with a lot of sanding. I'm wondering how to shape the port like that. I'm considering remaking my box, to try to achieve something like this. It looks completely badass.

I was bored at work once again and was th ok nking abput a b pillar once money allows me to Whats the best port location for a flat wall b-pillar top port going aross or side port driver side with subs going up on passenger side or passenger sidee port and subs on driver side.

How much port area you think would be best for 2 18" zcons. . Will be in around 16 cubes in a b pillar flat wall on about 5-6k rms

Since my local box builder seems to think he needs $270 to build my sub box I decided to tackle it myself. I have been reading up on box building when I came across a forum that suggested making a box panel that sandwiched a layer of cork inbetween 2 layers of mdf. Another suggestion was to use sand inbetween 2 layers. As the latter isn't feasible, I am interested in the cork option since it is fairly cheep. I understand that the cork is supposed to help dampen the box. Has anyone utilized this practice? Or are they blowing smoke? They also suggested using dynamat instead of cork, but that seems a bit pricey.

I know you have to put slits in the wood, but how do you know how deep and so on, is there some type of formula? I know i read it on here some where, but i just cant find it.... Thanks,

im getting ready to build a sealed for for an 87 trans am, for 2 soundsplitter rl-p 12's. i think i'm going to have to use the entire well to get over 1 cubic foot per speaker, but i'm not sure exactly what im going to be working with, and this will be my first custom box. any tips, hints, blueprints, pictures, any kind of help anyone with a third generation f-body can give me? any thoughts on ideal air specs for running about 700 watts to each sub? i want to use 2 separate chambers right? thanks, Shaun

New to car audio here. I recently purchased a SoundQubed HDS312 and SoundQubed Q1-1200.2 amp and plan on building my own box. It will be wired to 1ohm and installed in a 2006 Trailblazer. My question has to do with port firing direction, this is a work truck constantly filled with tools and I would like the sub to be facing up so it doesn't get damaged, and have the port facing the rear or both facing up. I've created two boxes both 2.49 cubic feet at 33.48hz: Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm planning a box for a trunk setup w/ folding rear seat. The subwoofer will be facing the rear and port at the rear or side, and enclosure moved as close to the cabin. What is the rule on height and width clearance of the enclosure in relation to the rear deck and side panels? Is there supposed to be space in between? Can either be flush?

just wondering how to find out what frequency to tune a box to? do you base it off fs?

I bet you'd never see me post this M5 haha anyways, ill post what im looking to do and what im working with. its my daily driver, a 2011 ford flex, with the stock Sony system, SYNC, etc. first up, HU. i dont want to replace the stock unit. its a good unit and i dont want to mess with an aftermarket one. theres a guy on the flex forum that runs a JBL MS8 with his stock unit and says its incredible. budget wise, im not going to throw a number, but i will state that i am not going to be paying like 500+ per speaker or anything crazy. this is just a daily driver and even the cheapest of a "sq" setup will sound good to me, as i mainly use pro audio in my other rides. i d…

I currently have 2 SA10's in 2.5 cu ft net tuned to 32hz. They are running at 1 ohm off an SAZ-1500D. I'm pretty happy with them, but the box is the wrong shape to fit where I want it. This is going in an 03 Lincoln town car on the hump behind the seat on top of the gas tank. I have 41" of width, 18" of depth, and 10.5" of height. So I should be able to get 2.5 cu ft net, but just barely. One reason I'm considering the skar subs is that I get a free box. I can get 4-8's in a custom ported box shipped to me for $500. Or 2-10's for $380. I've been thinking about 8's since the sa8 came out. And the box would look nicer for 8's since I could do a flush mount baffle. I don't h…

Hi everyone I am about to try my hand at making a box of a different type for the first time. Mainly I'm doing this because it is very interesting to me and also because I can stick this speaker in my girl's car and if it sounds awesome I;m hoping she allows it to take up that valuable "grocery getting" real estate in her trunk. So I'll start here. Vehicle : 2002 Lexus GS300 Location in the vehicle: Trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): 36" x 24" x 22" Subwoofer make and model: Ampere Audio 2.0 8" (spec's below) Subwoofer Size: 8" 300 Watts RMS Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot (T-L…

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00964473000P I found one of these at a local pawn shop and was wondering if it would be worth picking up for 50 bucks. The one at the shop has a attachment that looks something like a router and has a circle cutting attachment among other things. Really would just need it for cutting circles, and then possibly other household things. Sorry if this is in the wrong section didnt really know where to ask about tools here.

Hi I recently had a box built by someone and I want to make sure the tuning is right The ports should be tuned to 33hz The box is for (2) digital designs 2500 12" It is a dual 12 box, sub + port firing foward 34W X 14H X 24D outer dimensions 2 ports come together in the middle and are fully seperated til an inch from the front the 2 chambers are completely seperated down the middle an outer dimension: the port walls on both sides are 18 inches long into the box inner dimensions the port height 12.5 port width: 1.75-2inches (starts at 1.75 at top, slanted to 2inches by the bottom) I hope this isnt too confusing I can try 2 take pics if needed but id have 2 fi…

Im a noob at woodworking and have a couple of questions for those that are experienced with routers. I currently have a porter cable fixed based router i snatched up from a pawn shop for $20. I wanna get a plunge router as well in the near future. Collet size is not an issue because both routers are 1/2 and 1/4 shank interchangeable. What kind/size/length bit do i need to do hole cutouts and also what size bit for roundover's for port edges? Assuming 3/4 mdf is being used. Thanks

Hi I'm making my box for 2 12" Fi SSDs and I can get my dimensions from the RE box calculator but how could I calculate a double baffle into it? I have been thinkin about it and I can not think of how I can calculate it and keep it at 4 cubes.

Me and smokedog will be hosting a show in bluefield wv at an autozone. We will have it at the end of sept. To space it out from the other shows thats happening up here so we dont get burnt out on it. Spl will have 5 classes still and we are gonna do sq as well. Door prizes will be supplied by Autozone, it should be a blast. But spl and sq will be happening at this show.

Whats out there thats relatively beginner friendly? I want to see if I can do a ported box for 3 MJM-18s or 2 IXL-12.2.2s..