SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I recently found this box picture: I love how the port and the edges are rounded. I'm guessing that on the edges that they achieved that with a lot of sanding. I'm wondering how to shape the port like that. I'm considering remaking my box, to try to achieve something like this. It looks completely badass.

I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've neve…

Right now my enclosure is 6.5 cubes tuned about 33. Port area is only about 82 . . Was wondering what kind of changes you think I could see by lowering the volume more to increase the port area to cubic foot ratio

Im thinking about building a new box to try and improve sq in my setup a little. i have a 3.75 cu ft box with like 60 inches of port tuned to 32 now, slot port on one side of the two subs. this box is a little bigger than what my subs call for and is an awful lot of port area. im thinking about bringing the box down to 3.2 or smaller and using a 8 round port and flaring the ends tuning to 32. if my math is right 8 is 50 sq inches of port correct? im thinking about choking it down to 7" which is like 38~ and run @ 3 cu ft. im running like 1600-2000 watts BXI2006d would the round port sound better. as with the smaller box? edit" running 2 DC audio lvl4 12s. call for 1.5 c…

Starting a new box build this weekend. I'm doing a slot port for this one. The box is 23" long with a 2.25" wide port. Need a 27" long port to tune. According to my math, the L section of the port needs to be 4" long. This assumes 2.25" from end of box to edge of long port length which I come up with 20.75. Taking center of port at 21.875 that leaves me with an L of 5.125 center. Subtracting back in 1.125 of center leaves me with 4". For end correction, I need to add back in 1.125 which brings me back to 5.125" L I've had a long week. Is my math correct? I don't design a lot of slot ports. Thanks! Dave

So I am thinking of adding another Xcon 15" (1ohm) and not sure if I should stay ported or go sealed...I have a Hifonics BRX2000.1D which currently runs my ported 15" (1ohm dvc) w/ 1400rms @ 2ohm. I don't intend to upgrade the amp as right now my stock alternator seems fine, and have no plans to upgrade alternator anytime soon...sooo... Running two subs will pretty much leave me with 1k rms for each sub...and the idea of staying ported or going sealed is keeping me awake at night! Not to mention enclosure size and design. In the back of my Santa Fe has a storage compartment which houses my amps, but I get the feeling with it being so hollow it could be echoing my ba…

ok, i did a 143.9 w/ my 2 15's. and i'm wanting to redo the box to try for louder. i'm putting about 750-800 to them a piece. do you think i could get 1 15 w/ 1600w louder than the 2? or would i be better off sticking w/ the 2?

I currently have my 15 L7 mounted in a 1.5ft.^3 sealed enclosure powered by a RF Power 1001db 1000watts @ 2ohm in my brothers semi truck it's a international 9400i with a bunk bed sleeper, it has mb quarts 6.5 components up front and 5.25 coaxial in the rear powered by a zapco ag360 with a clarion dxz 575 head unit. My goal is to get real loud and maybe enter competition in the future and upgrading to two L7's or even 2 fi 15 bl's and space is not problem. i listen ti wide range of music but mostly reggae, hip-hop, r&b, rap, pop, and some classics, its my first time building a ported box but i have experience in building sealed, so it would helpful if you guys could h…

Help me out. I can't afford a ton of batteries so I can only go into a class with minimal bat requirement. :boxin:

I have a weird question; I plan on attempting to build some Kick panels. I have some Fiberglass and Kevlar material that might work. But I want your opinion. All this material is about .015 -.035 thick per layer, yeah it would take a lot of layers. This is a Spun-lace polyester material, Its 4

I am using CAD right now to try to make a 3d design of my box. My question is if it is an 8 cu ft. box before displacement with external aeroports, what kind of internal bracing am I going to need even with a double baffle? This is getting a fully loaded 18" BTL by the way, with a Sundown 3000d. If I use 3/4" MDF will I have a problem with too much flexing? Also one question this is my first build, first system and I want to know what your guys preference is on MDF from different suppliers. All I really have around here is a Menards and I work there so I can get a small discount on it there. I just wondered what you guys think of the quality of Menard's MDF compared to ot…

I have a question for anyone on here that has experience with 6th order enclosures or blow-through boxes. I have finally gathered everything I needed for my build in my silverado (standard box). The part that has been bothering me is that the build that I originally based my idea on was Jack Chisam's Sleeper. The basic design was a series ported 6th order with the front chamber untuned and the back tuned around 30hz. it is a 3:1 ratio 6th order. The woofers I chose were the Zcons (6) and I am running them from a American Bass 1100.1 (maybe 2 in the future). The amp and batteries are in the very back of the bed on the back side of the box. So, with all this being s…

I've decided to start murdering my truck out except with chrome here and there. So here is my start.

Alright guys, im in college for Mechanic Apprenticeship and one of my courses next semester is Electrical Accessories, Guess what we get to build! A sub box, Considering i already have a daily box for my BTL 18, i was considering building something for pure SPL if i ever want to try out a competiton.. Anyways, i was just curious from your experiences what platform is the best for pure spl builds, just a basic slot port, 4th order, 6th order ect. (This will be in the trunk so no walls.) Once i get some information about this ill sit down and see what i can come up with.

So I only have bought pre fabbed boxes... Yes I know I am a lame person. The boxes are probably not to spec. And the boxes I usually get are cheap and are usually sealed. So I have been doing a lot of research and I think that the next box I want to BUILD is going to be a ported box. I know this scares me because of how hard it is going to be but I think I can handle it... If not it is a learning process. I am getting a Icon 12 dual 2ohm sub. My uncle who lives here does flooring and has tools/experience with wood working and stuff. Also what he does have experience with is fiberglassing and also doing carbon fiber in the hull inside his jet ski to make it stronger. I …

...need some mad pound wang up in here yo... LMAO Can ya hear me now?...Good!

Hi guys Trying to get started on enclosure this morning for a Jeep Cherokee. Want to be able to see out of the back window. Listens to Metal/Rock. Tuning ~ 35-37hz okay Amp ~ Rockford Fosgate 40001 I now have these max internal dimensions to work with before speaker and bracing displacement. 40" W 23" H 24" D Thanks for any help Shizzzon I've sent you a new PM Goal is doing what it takes to get max air space so a ported enclosure is possible. Subs up port back. Box will also be double baffled. Can anyone double check my work and see what kind of port you come up with. Probably one rear chamber and one big port slotted and vented. Thanks in advance, Joe

Hey all.Is it true that you can build a wall and then slide it in your car?Ive heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it was real or what.If its real how would I go about doing it?I want to build a wall but I dont want to spend 1200 bux to have some one build it so I was going to attempt to do it myself.I have a 2007 Dodge caliber and was wanting 4 15's if it helps any.

Bass race death match was awesome to, I'll get the video later. Anyway, I built for this thing and I won, it ended up with a 146.1 for a 5min average. It could have been higher but there was no need to turn it up (as you'll see i started at a 148 and backed it down) This was taken this past weekend in Augusta, GA at one of the db drag events. Car off, 5minutes, four loudest street cars at once! I started high, and then turned it down just above the guy next to me. The guy with crx got a late start, so he only did a 138(burps a 151), the guy in the red truck had 2 L510's and a Orion 1200D and held a 138 for the 5min. Not bad! It was a looong five minutes sitting inside …

Whats out there thats relatively beginner friendly? I want to see if I can do a ported box for 3 MJM-18s or 2 IXL-12.2.2s..

So if you looked at my build log then maybe you can get an idea. If not then to fill you in i have a RE SX-12 in a ported box 2.0^3 at 35hz and after setting gains i am just let down by the lack of serious bump. I'm looking for a recommendation on to what route I should go to get more bump from my back seat area. It's a convertible and it's been said that a smaller enclosure may assist my needs. I have a pair of alpine type-r 12's gaining dust that would be good for a smaller enclosure if that helps any. Anyhow thanks fellas.

Now I gott figure out the volune but my wierd ass box isnt liek any of the calulators boxes

Okay guys, I need your help on this one. Now ive built a few boxes and understand the basic concepts/calcs of everything but have never built a wall before. My brother asked me yesterday if I would build him one yesterday and thats why im posting this today. Can anyone give me some tips and explain the order at which i should start it? **Now Im not asking you to explain every single thing (tuning or port size or anything like that which would depend on the subs, which he hasnt decided on yet) Thanks for any input and as always its appreciated.

Assuming all have the same sealed/ported volume and same port size. I know the pics aren't to scale so don't take that into consideration. I have seen pretty much all of these types used, so I know any would technically work but I wonder about cancellation with all but # 2. The box would be for 8 10's, tuned to 45hz with about 35 cubes total if you're curious. I would have never considered facing subs at each other in the past but I've seen some of the loudest 4th orders with subs facing right at each other like design 1 and 3 so it might not be as much of an issue as I was always told. All are 4th order walls in case that wasn't obvious and the crap drawing is an overh…

Ok guys i have a 2006 charger. It supposedly has a 180 amp alt in it. Over the past few weeks i have done everything i could possible think of to get rid of this alt whine. Change grounds on the HU and the AMP.Changed RCA's. Ran an isolated ground to HU from the battery. Gave the HU an isolated power to an external battery. Seperate ground to the alt with the stock wiring in. New alt power wire with the stock wiring as well. Took the serpantine belt off the pully's to see if there was any catching in the alt(no catching nor was there an play in the alt shaft). Went and got the alt tested today its a good alt. Got the battery tested and its a good battery. The only time th…