SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Calculations, Concepts, Designs, Theories. All General SPL Or SQ Questions Can Be Discussed Here.
2,714 topics in this forum
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Made another video showing the rest of the kerfing process!
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I have an older corolla, i want to go with a 4.0 ft^3 slot-port tuned @ 32Hz. Its a small trunk the max dimensions are 33x16.5x21.
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Alright, I'm going full blow post with this. I'm tired of wasting paint. I've been painting this damn thing with color now for around two weeks. Giving plenty of time to dry between coats, wet sand, etc. and it still looks like shit. There's 6 coats of automotive primer on it before I started painting as well yet it still continues to soak in, like so. This is after around 3 coats of paint. BTW the color is deep jewel green with the metal flake in it. Same color that's on my '70 chevy. And this is after around 8 coats of paint. The picture was taken this morning moments before coat #9. So what can I do with this? I was wondering if a coat of clear over the pain…
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Hi I recently had a box built by someone and I want to make sure the tuning is right The ports should be tuned to 33hz The box is for (2) digital designs 2500 12" It is a dual 12 box, sub + port firing foward 34W X 14H X 24D outer dimensions 2 ports come together in the middle and are fully seperated til an inch from the front the 2 chambers are completely seperated down the middle an outer dimension: the port walls on both sides are 18 inches long into the box inner dimensions the port height 12.5 port width: 1.75-2inches (starts at 1.75 at top, slanted to 2inches by the bottom) I hope this isnt too confusing I can try 2 take pics if needed but id have 2 fi…
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I know you have to put slits in the wood, but how do you know how deep and so on, is there some type of formula? I know i read it on here some where, but i just cant find it.... Thanks,
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I want to built a box for four 10" Dcons max demissions are 37"W x 15"H x 22"D but can stretch the depth a little. . Im using a rockford T1000 at 1ohm. What is suggestions out there thanks in advance
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i did a 149.3db this weekend got 1st place my 4-15" box was still wet ! the FG Resin had not dryed and i had no time to brace the boxx i beat a guy that had 16 > 12" subs he had this he got a 148.9db & 2nd place
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Me and smokedog will be hosting a show in bluefield wv at an autozone. We will have it at the end of sept. To space it out from the other shows thats happening up here so we dont get burnt out on it. Spl will have 5 classes still and we are gonna do sq as well. Door prizes will be supplied by Autozone, it should be a blast. But spl and sq will be happening at this show.
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Well i'm talkin to a member on *** about buyin his 18" dc level 5 but first i got to make sure i can fit it decently in my trunk (wall is not an option and im not taking out the back seats). my trunk is 16-17" high depending on location and im looking to run a box this size (optimum size without going into a different shape from square/rectangle): 32" wide, 16" tall, 30" deep. should be ~ 7.795 cu. ft before and displacement. im lookin to have the box tuned to 31-33hz as i listen to mostly rap and techno. the sub specs according to DC site are: Mounting Depth = 10.5Mounting Hole Diameter = 16.75"Motor Width = 9.84"Weight = 80.5lbsVC Diameter = 3" Flat 8 layerSd = 1159…
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just wondering how to find out what frequency to tune a box to? do you base it off fs?
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Alright guys, im in college for Mechanic Apprenticeship and one of my courses next semester is Electrical Accessories, Guess what we get to build! A sub box, Considering i already have a daily box for my BTL 18, i was considering building something for pure SPL if i ever want to try out a competiton.. Anyways, i was just curious from your experiences what platform is the best for pure spl builds, just a basic slot port, 4th order, 6th order ect. (This will be in the trunk so no walls.) Once i get some information about this ill sit down and see what i can come up with.
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Hi Guys, Hope you are all well and i aslo hope that some one can assist me with working out the correct spec for a true SPL box. please note I will only be doing SPL with this box. Ok so I have 18mm ply wood, 1 12inch subwoofer, 1 amplifier and 1 battery. Here's what i'd like to do Get a minimum of 151db's from this setup Equipment DD Z1a NSB 170 12v Targa TG301-DW The sub specs are as follows and i could be wrong because this is taken directly from the site. 12" COMP SUBWOOFER - DUAL 1 SPECIFICATIONS Fs (free air resonance): 48.7 Hz SPL (efficiency, 1W/1M): 89 dB Nominal Inpedance: 1/2 Ω Qts (total speaker "Q"): 0.606 Qes (electrical "Q"): 0.732 Qms (mechanical "Q"): 3.5…
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Im a noob at woodworking and have a couple of questions for those that are experienced with routers. I currently have a porter cable fixed based router i snatched up from a pawn shop for $20. I wanna get a plunge router as well in the near future. Collet size is not an issue because both routers are 1/2 and 1/4 shank interchangeable. What kind/size/length bit do i need to do hole cutouts and also what size bit for roundover's for port edges? Assuming 3/4 mdf is being used. Thanks
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I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've neve…
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hey guys, im having a hard time deciding on which box to build for my 18" nightshade. i will be using a hifonics brutus bxi1610d amplifier. i have a fairly small trunk but the sub will fit with a correctly sized box. i used the re calculator to come up with 2 different designs. i need your help to choose which would be best. here is the first one http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/thebiggmann12/2.png and the second one is here http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/thebiggmann12/Untitled.png the one with the port along the bottom would be port back sup up and the other one would be port up sub up. it will be going in a hatchback focus. if u need any more informati…
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i currently built my first box ever...and it came out pretty good...there are some minor gaps...which i believe are due to warped boards because all cuts were made by me on a table saw...but back to the point...i siliconed the crap out of the inside and silicone into the port (around the port pieces and one of the other corners) will that change anything such as tuning? or increase the liklihood of port noise etc?
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http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00964473000P I found one of these at a local pawn shop and was wondering if it would be worth picking up for 50 bucks. The one at the shop has a attachment that looks something like a router and has a circle cutting attachment among other things. Really would just need it for cutting circles, and then possibly other household things. Sorry if this is in the wrong section didnt really know where to ask about tools here.
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Well, i think its time for a custom box. The current box was made for 2 12" w7's. my speakers are 10cvx122 kickers. specs are min port, 1.75+port and max 2.25+port with the port being 63" sq x 20" long. figure that out. 87.32 spl, 3.74 Revc, .0507 Sd M, 18.62 BL TM, 57.98 Vas liters, 28.44 Fs Hz, 197.28 Mms Grams, 10.209 Qms, .38 Qes, .3665 Qts, 15.4mm XMax. whatever all that means, lol. The max dimensions in the truck are ______14____ and about 4' wide maxx. / l / l 1-1.5' …
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I bet you'd never see me post this M5 haha anyways, ill post what im looking to do and what im working with. its my daily driver, a 2011 ford flex, with the stock Sony system, SYNC, etc. first up, HU. i dont want to replace the stock unit. its a good unit and i dont want to mess with an aftermarket one. theres a guy on the flex forum that runs a JBL MS8 with his stock unit and says its incredible. budget wise, im not going to throw a number, but i will state that i am not going to be paying like 500+ per speaker or anything crazy. this is just a daily driver and even the cheapest of a "sq" setup will sound good to me, as i mainly use pro audio in my other rides. i d…
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I recently found this box picture: I love how the port and the edges are rounded. I'm guessing that on the edges that they achieved that with a lot of sanding. I'm wondering how to shape the port like that. I'm considering remaking my box, to try to achieve something like this. It looks completely badass.
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Since my local box builder seems to think he needs $270 to build my sub box I decided to tackle it myself. I have been reading up on box building when I came across a forum that suggested making a box panel that sandwiched a layer of cork inbetween 2 layers of mdf. Another suggestion was to use sand inbetween 2 layers. As the latter isn't feasible, I am interested in the cork option since it is fairly cheep. I understand that the cork is supposed to help dampen the box. Has anyone utilized this practice? Or are they blowing smoke? They also suggested using dynamat instead of cork, but that seems a bit pricey.
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Whats out there thats relatively beginner friendly? I want to see if I can do a ported box for 3 MJM-18s or 2 IXL-12.2.2s..
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Final thoughts before I start building this for my sealed trunk wall? I am going to be putting in a Zv4 15" running on a BE.2500. Will it be alright for the total port area to be 12 in^2 more than the recommended? Thank you.
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From what I've been reading, using a ported box will give you a 3 db gain in output, as will using a second subwoofer. Right now I'm running a ported Dcon. So, if I were to buy another one, it would pretty much be a waste of money to run them sealed? I should be getting the same amount of output from one ported as I would from two sealed? (Someone should really change the title under my name from "Member" to "Forum idiot". )
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I was bored at work once again and was th ok nking abput a b pillar once money allows me to Whats the best port location for a flat wall b-pillar top port going aross or side port driver side with subs going up on passenger side or passenger sidee port and subs on driver side.
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