SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have been looking in to these two subs for months now reading everything I can. I am still stuck maybe some smart people can help me out. ok I am looking for high quality, clarity, accurate, punchy sound not so much loud. mainly SQ. I had two Pioneer TS-W309D4 in a sealed box at 1.15 Cu. Ft. Air Space per sub. powered by a Pyle PLA2678. I liked this sound it sounded nice punchy. but I wanted something better so this guy told me about FI and Audio Pipe amps . so then I got a FI SSD 12 with only interior leads. powered by a AUDIOPIPE APSM-1500 and in 2cu ft. of air space. tuned to 32hz ported. it got so loud my nose flap would shake and it was awesome and still …

I want to run a Fi Q 18" off an saz-1500d in my new project, a 95 eldorado. I want to put it in the trunk. My trunk isn't tall enough to fire an 18 back so it'll have to fire up. I'm getting rid of the rear 6x9's, so I was thinking sub in the middle of the box firing up and a round port on either side firing into the empty speaker holes in the back deck. Box dimensions would be 38wide, 16.75tall with double baffle and 24 deep. Winisd is saying to tune 6.5 cu ft to 28hz i need two 4" round ports 10.15" long. That's .073 cu ft each. Or .015 total, and .24 for the sub. So .39 off 6.9 cu ft, giving me a net of 6.5 cu ft. Should the ports be flush with the top of the box, or …

so within this next week i plan on getting an Fi Q 18 with the BP. Itll be powered by my elemental design nine.1 (and from reading through these forums, noone seems to like ED, but this is the amp im sticking to) and im guna be wiring the sub down to 1ohm. my enclosure is going to be in the ballpark of 4.5 cubes in my '01 extended cab ranger...but this time i want to go ported, and this WILL be my first ported box (and my 4th setup period) i want to do aero ports, but im still having a hard time trying to figure out how to get port dimensions and etc. and idk what to really tune it to either....i guess around 30hz or so and if it helps, i listen to rap (and country, but t…

Single Q12 going in 2005 jimmy and was wondering if I should just go with the cut sheets found here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/#entry701997 or should I get someone to design one? wondering if this would be optimal for good SQ over SPL. Should I place enclosure against front seats facing sub backwards, upwards, towards front or behind back seats facing up or backwards ?? Looking for SQ quick response over SPL. Wanting ported for better power usage and also heard ported can sound just as good as sealed so went that way and got without high QTS. Anyone have experience with single 12 in SUV ? Anyone maybe be able to design an encl…

Whats up guys, I'm kinda a noob here but I've been lurking around these forums for awhile trying to learn as much as I can before I start this project. I'm mainly here right now to talk about the box. I'm planning on building one myself and the specs are going to be 3.8cu ft tuned to 31Hz. I used a box calculator from a site called KlausAudio.com and I was going to see what you guys thought, because I've heard these online calculators can be off sometimes. Here is a list of the dimensions of the panels needed. The sub will obviously be a Fi Q15(Dual 2 ohm) and I'm planning on running it on a AQ1200D amp. And my car is a 2002 Camry. Just wanted to get some input from gu…

the sub should be here within the week. it will be going in a 2002 cavalier. i have limits on the box, so i have come up with 36w x 17h x 13d with 2 3"ID ports tuning to 35hz. i read some where i could tune the box a little higher due to the fact i listen to a wide range of music. any truth?? sub will fire into the cab area. i have also read some where about sealing off the trunk. so, i would seal off the enclosure from the rest of the trunk and channel all the sound into the cab area?? any specifications on space needed in front of the woofer or ports??

Hey all. I have my Fi SSD 15 in a box right now that is tuned wayyy to high. So I was crunching some numbers for a new box. Here are the specs, can you all look over them and see if everything is correct please? 28" wide 17" tall 28" deep Port: 4.5" wide 15.5" tall 41" long Sub up port back. 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot Also with that box, should an SSD 15 hit the lows pretty good?

I have a weird question; I plan on attempting to build some Kick panels. I have some Fiberglass and Kevlar material that might work. But I want your opinion. All this material is about .015 -.035 thick per layer, yeah it would take a lot of layers. This is a Spun-lace polyester material, Its 4

What are some good places to get this stuff? What am I looking for? Is there specific kinds? Are there cheaper ones and more expensive ones? How much is a good deal if I am searching on e-gay? How much will I need to make a 31x26x10.5 inch tub? How thick to I need to make it? Thanks Jerry

This has nothing to do with audio, so if this is in the wrong section, I apologize and feel free to move it. The package tray for my hatch was broken when I bought the car. Looks like someone put something too heavy on it and cracked the structure inside. Can I lay chop mat down on top of the carpet and resin it or will the resin not adhere to the carpet? I'm just looking to do the underside of this to make it rigid enough to hold it's shape again when it's in the car. I've heard you should lay rope or something similar to give the mat a corrugated look for linear strength. Here's a picture of the underside of the tray where I'd like to strengthen it. The carpet is hook…

What’s up ladies and gentlemen of the car audio world? Today I bring to you the all inclusive Fiberglass Amp Rack 101 Lesson! Allow me to insert my shameless plug and say that if you enjoy any part of this tutorial, or learned something new, please post a comment, rank this thread, and share with your friends! Also I love when I get new subscribers on my YouTube channel! (www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication ) Other than that let’s review what you will learn shall we? http://youtu.be/YUEUAhttGts Intro: First off I know I know, this looks like a ton of reading, and a ton of work, but it really is not, it just seems that way because I am outlining every thing I have learned …

Whats the best way to cut a 14in diameter hole in plexiglass? Also, cut a 5in diameter hole in fiberglass? Thanks.

Okay, sorry I can't upload pics of my fiberglass project right now (I'll try later) but I had a question. The situation -didn't use enough hardner on the fleece and it was still gooey when I came back 24 hrs later. -I tried just smearing plain hardner on the sticky resin and that seemed to work okay -then I made my next batch of resin pretty hot (meaning lots of hardner) and layed two layers of 1.5oz. Now the fiberglass is as stiff as normal and when I stick my hand in the box and move it around I don't get anything wet or sticky, but its still smells like resin really bad (its been dry for 20 hrs) The questions: "how long does resin continue to smell." "Does a complet…

right now i have to re audio 10's in a sealed box in my 1991 mustang convertible. this is the dimensions of the box i have now 42" FrontWidth x 36" RearWidth x 8 H x 15" Depth its 1.9 cubes internal. i am planning on getting two ascendant audio arsenal 10's soon and wanted to make a fiberglass box. could i do this with such small space?

I started my base mold about a week ago, and popped it out after the second layer. Right now im on my fourth layer for the base, and it seems to be getting really stiff. Probably going to end up doing 2 more layers. I have a question though, does fiberglassing polyiester rope to the inside of the box help stiffen it up? i thought I read about that on here but im not sure.

I currently have 2 15 fi Q's and want to put them into a fiberglass enclosure. I will frame the back, bottom, and both sides out of MDF, but i am wanting the top and front of the enclosure to be fiberglass. What is the recommended thickness or number of layers of mat or cloth that i should apply for 2 Q 15's. Amp using the AQ 2200D amp if that helps. Thanks

Hey all, Ever wondered, what weight chop mat should I use? What resin do I need? How much hardener (MEKP) do I need to add to the resin? What is it is hot? What if it is cold? Whats the best way to use fiberglass and add strength to something? Wonder no longer my friends... As i gear up for my door pod build I have been amassing some more fiberglass fabrication products. These products are typical of what you would see in any car audio install that involves fiberglass show I wanted to share them with you, along with an explanation of each and some answers to questions I see repeatedly online! Enjoy! Also, here is a wonderful table that allows you to better un…

would fiberglassing the edges of the box help with strength, and would covering the whole box help more, ofcourse inside thanks, and could it be which ever brand or is there a certain brand thats good

Want to learn how to fiberglass? check this tutorial out, he knows what he is doing. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=416484

Ok, I will be googling how to do fiberglass work soon enough....but i just wanted a general concensus of about how tough it can be....I want to build a L type sealed enclosure going from the floor in the back seat of a friends truck and into the center portion of his seat. I would like to do it in fiberglass and just wanted a general idea of about how much work i am in for. Is it okay to have like 90% of the enclosure to be mdf? I just need the top portion to be fiberglass so i can angle the subs to where i want them to point. Also, it is okay for 2 subs to be in a common chamber isnt it? I thought it was, just wanna make sure. Thank You

So i know you can tune a box to a certain hz and specific dimensions for a squared ported/sealed box But, Is it at all possible to calculate and tune a fiberglass piece that you make to mount your subs on the side of the car or anything? ive read many tutorials on how to fiberglass but nothing really mentions anything about proper dimensions and what not for a sub. so am i sacrificing quality and proper sound for looks by fiberglassing?

Hey guys, I'm goin g to try and build a glassed back dash to hold my mids. I was wondering if someone could give me any tips and mainly what I will need to do this. I've heard fleece, resin, and hardener. But which ressin and Hardner should I get? If I use wood to build the base should I use like 1/4 inch mdf or does it matter. Anyway, I wanted to get some of the materials today so anything will help. I'm going to look for a jasper jig so I will be back. Josh

Let me start by showing what I've done and what I'm trying to finish with... I'm planning on hot gluing wooden dowels to the fiberglass panel up to a wood speaker ring. Then wrap a big piece of cloth around the speaker ring to the back of the fiberglass panel, then stable the cloth around the ring, and glass the cloth, etc. Only problem I'm running into is, when I wrap the cloth around the ring and fiberglass, how do I staple down the cloth, since there won't be any wood to staple into on the back of the fiberglass panel. Could I glue small strips of cardboard to the back of the fiberglass and staple into that? Sorry if I'm confusing.

Would someone be so kind to briefly walk me thru the process of how to properly secure a fiberglassed roof? Basically.. i'll take the headliner down.. build a wall in my car, then from the B pillar on forward, that will be fiberglassed, ok? this is where i get lost.... How do i attach the fiberglass mold to the vehicle so i could remove it again if i needed to?

So I have searched a little and really haven't found out much info. I read somewhere that fiberglassing the inside of your enclosure makes it weak. why is this, is it because of the heat and chemicals released during drying and curing? Is it really necessary for a box that will only see a occasional romp on a lane? Please discuss.