SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hi guys. I will have some time to hang out next week and wanted to use up all my extra MDF. I wanted to attempt to make a 4th order bandpass to put a couple PWX 10's in there and hook it up to my xbox. I know they are not subwoofers but they are my test speakers. If this box turns out good I will refine my design for a couple of real subs. This is what I have come up with. Each side chamber is 1 ft^3 sealed and the center chamber is 2 ft^3 tuned at 33hz. I have no clue how a 4th order works but this is what I have come up with. If you could explain to me how a 4th order works that might help me design this and also let me know if there is anything I can change to make my …

i did a 149.3db this weekend got 1st place my 4-15" box was still wet ! the FG Resin had not dryed and i had no time to brace the boxx i beat a guy that had 16 > 12" subs he had this he got a 148.9db & 2nd place

as of right now i am sound dampening, already heavily dynomated but not enough for me personally. so i am covering the interior with mdf and foaming between the mdf and all metal. the back wall will be about 3"soild, needless to say i want solid. i am going to have the subs facing up behind the two front seats, i have 12.9 cu ft gross and 10.77 net cu ft of space to work with. the box will be constructed from 1.5" mdf and internally braced with 5/8" all thread. the plan is to have an interchangable port set-up for SQ and SPL for compitition. if anyone has any ideas i would like to hear them, this is the first time i have ever used soundsplinter subs. my last sub i ha…

So I only have bought pre fabbed boxes... Yes I know I am a lame person. The boxes are probably not to spec. And the boxes I usually get are cheap and are usually sealed. So I have been doing a lot of research and I think that the next box I want to BUILD is going to be a ported box. I know this scares me because of how hard it is going to be but I think I can handle it... If not it is a learning process. I am getting a Icon 12 dual 2ohm sub. My uncle who lives here does flooring and has tools/experience with wood working and stuff. Also what he does have experience with is fiberglassing and also doing carbon fiber in the hull inside his jet ski to make it stronger. I …

From what I've been reading, using a ported box will give you a 3 db gain in output, as will using a second subwoofer. Right now I'm running a ported Dcon. So, if I were to buy another one, it would pretty much be a waste of money to run them sealed? I should be getting the same amount of output from one ported as I would from two sealed? (Someone should really change the title under my name from "Member" to "Forum idiot". )

Hello, I have 3x SSA DCON's in a box that I handmade from a design from a member here. I recently bought a new SUV and the box will not fit. The box is too wide by 1 inch. The inside area of the port now is 14 3/8" X 7 1/2" ....if I cut 1 inch off of the port then the new port would be 14 3/8" X 6 1/2". Would this change the sound of the subs a lot or would it be ok to do this ? Thanks in advance for any help.

hey guys, im having a hard time deciding on which box to build for my 18" nightshade. i will be using a hifonics brutus bxi1610d amplifier. i have a fairly small trunk but the sub will fit with a correctly sized box. i used the re calculator to come up with 2 different designs. i need your help to choose which would be best. here is the first one http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/thebiggmann12/2.png and the second one is here http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/thebiggmann12/Untitled.png the one with the port along the bottom would be port back sup up and the other one would be port up sub up. it will be going in a hatchback focus. if u need any more informati…

I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've neve…

I have an 08 cheny crew cab I would like to build an enclosure to go under the rear seat that will hold one BL 12"ran off of one T1000 fosgate amp this will be a daily application I will have to raise the seat to make it fit I will be raising the seat 4" the area I will have to work with would be best described as a wedge style box 55"w , 16"H , 8 "--9" D1, and 11" D2 Can anybody help me with die mentions for an enclosure for this application and ideas were the port should go and how large to make it I would lik to make this an up fire with the port coming out the front

i currently built my first box ever...and it came out pretty good...there are some minor gaps...which i believe are due to warped boards because all cuts were made by me on a table saw...but back to the point...i siliconed the crap out of the inside and silicone into the port (around the port pieces and one of the other corners) will that change anything such as tuning? or increase the liklihood of port noise etc?

Tought to explain, but here it goes. I plan on using an 18" sub in my car. Due to size restraints it will be firing up into the lid of the trunk. Now, has anyone tried to make a baffle to go on top of the sub? The baffle would be touching the box at the back of the trunk and be touching the very top of the trunk at the front of the trunk. The baffle would span the entire length of the trunk. The sub would then fire into the baffle and create compression loading like in a hatchback. Damn, that is tough to understand. If anyone knows what I am talking about and has a better explanation than please feel free to elaborate. I just drew it up quick. I am just wondering if the …

i got a kicker l7 15 dual 4 wired to 2ohms into a hifonics brutus 1200. i just got my box built by one of my buddies who owns a shop. the box is roughly 5 cubes tuned to about 35hz pretty sure. i got everything together last night and spent all day today playing around and trying to tune it and it just does not want to put out those real lows in some songs. sounds like its just blowing air. None the less it tears apart the mid to high bass. i dont know what i could do to change it up maybe rebuild the port or something. not to good with this stuff thats why im asking you guys. inside of box dimensions: width 39 height 13.5 depth 18.5 its got 3 in wide slot port its just…

Has anyone ever had 2 boxes or separate chambers with 2 different tuning frequencies? ie. 2 subs, 1 box/chamber @ 26hz other @34hz. If so, can you explain your thoughts on how well it worked or didnt work for you. I was thinking about this option, but I am beginner enough to not consider all of the pros and cons in depth. Thanks for the input.

Going to be making my own port flares.. My dad works at a machine shop and has access to a lathe with will make things easier. He's gonna make me a mold so I can just fibreglass over it to make my flares. Now, I was hoping I could get some help with dimensions of the flare, it's going to be a 10" port, and I need to know what diameter to flare out to, and how deep to make the flare. Iv heard add 4" to the diameter but that could be total BS, but iv got no clue as far as how deep the flare should be.

I currently have my 15 L7 mounted in a 1.5ft.^3 sealed enclosure powered by a RF Power 1001db 1000watts @ 2ohm in my brothers semi truck it's a international 9400i with a bunk bed sleeper, it has mb quarts 6.5 components up front and 5.25 coaxial in the rear powered by a zapco ag360 with a clarion dxz 575 head unit. My goal is to get real loud and maybe enter competition in the future and upgrading to two L7's or even 2 fi 15 bl's and space is not problem. i listen ti wide range of music but mostly reggae, hip-hop, r&b, rap, pop, and some classics, its my first time building a ported box but i have experience in building sealed, so it would helpful if you guys could h…

Hey guys I made this box for 2 audioque 12 hdc3 subs and i want to know if this is an optimal design and if you guys have better ideas give me dimensions i want 36-37 hz thanks guys heres my design the slot port is going to be the bottom so the height is actually the width

Now I gott figure out the volune but my wierd ass box isnt liek any of the calulators boxes

Just to start off, I'm building this for the heck of it and recently picked up an inexpensive Memphis audio 15-ms84 to build a box around. This box might be placed in a car just to see what it will do but will stay mostly in the office. The pictures should give you an idea what I'm trying to do, and should show most of the specs of the box. Basically using an 8.25" x 1" slot port that is 23" in length with a tuning around 38 hz. The box volume is .59 f^3. The response curve seemed to have an nice flat-ish shape that hopefully will make it sound 'full' to the Fs. If I'm doing something completely wrong, please let me know - Gently please. Thanks John

I have a weird question; I plan on attempting to build some Kick panels. I have some Fiberglass and Kevlar material that might work. But I want your opinion. All this material is about .015 -.035 thick per layer, yeah it would take a lot of layers. This is a Spun-lace polyester material, Its 4

I'm just curious what are the advantages and disadvantages between TL enclosures, 4th order bandpass, and 6th order bandpass enclosures. These are all very new to me!

Welcome to the fabrication forum......I am the Mod of this section.....Please keep it clean and respectfull in here.....and most of all...enjoy....

I came up with this design for my subs, but I am having trouble figuring out what size the enclosure will be since it's an odd shape. Just wondering how much space each sub will have with these dimensions.

So I am thinking of adding another Xcon 15" (1ohm) and not sure if I should stay ported or go sealed...I have a Hifonics BRX2000.1D which currently runs my ported 15" (1ohm dvc) w/ 1400rms @ 2ohm. I don't intend to upgrade the amp as right now my stock alternator seems fine, and have no plans to upgrade alternator anytime soon...sooo... Running two subs will pretty much leave me with 1k rms for each sub...and the idea of staying ported or going sealed is keeping me awake at night! Not to mention enclosure size and design. In the back of my Santa Fe has a storage compartment which houses my amps, but I get the feeling with it being so hollow it could be echoing my ba…

not sure if this is the right spot but anyways any of you guys try to fit 1 or 2 of these under the seat of a pick up before? the truck actually is a 2006 F 150 super cab.....dont get it confused with a super crew. Im gonna try and figure out the box today and i just thought of using these i was going to run two 8's ported off 1 SAZ 1500D. im also considering two RE 8's too but i figured the AA would handle the power better than the RE's. Anways the other question i have is how much room is good to have between the cone and the floor of the truck. cuz i know i should beable to fit the RE's in there but the AA's are going to be tight as they are a bit taller in depth t…

Well I was bored so I made a couple vidz. Hope you enjoy :bigclap: Up first is a vid showing air movement from drivers window Breaking the lil guys in. Strange noise is not the subs. The closer the mic gets to the port the worse it gets. Lastly my no flex flex vid LMAO!! Will post more if ya want!