SPL & SQ / Fabrication

This is a box I am building for a friend. For an 8" Kicker L5, There is very minimal space in his Jeep TJ, so the height is pretty much no give for the size of the sub, even though it is an 8". This is the first box I have ever built before, so I know it may seem a bit rough in some parts, but I am working on it to make it look good for my buddy. If you guys have any comments about it to make it better, please let me know! after all i am only a beginner! Thanks! 0408001333.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306a.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306b.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket

Originally I thought my enclosure specs were very close to these, tuning and volume wise: 42W" x 22H" x 22D" - outer dimensions= 9.84961ft3 gross volume 7.3ft3 net volume tuned to 32Hz 6W" x 20.5H" for 123in2 of port area port 1-14.5" + port 2- 7" = 21.5" port length After reading through Chops end correction thread, Ive decided to do the math myself and find out what Ive really got. This is what Ive come up with. Im way off... The port length is actually 27.5". I had no idea how to measure the port. The tuning is more like 30.3Hz port volume calculation: 6W" x 20.5H"=123in2 123in2 x 27.5"=3382.5in2 3382.5in2/1728in2= 1.96ft3 of port volume 9.84961ft3-1.96ft3(port volume…

Tought to explain, but here it goes. I plan on using an 18" sub in my car. Due to size restraints it will be firing up into the lid of the trunk. Now, has anyone tried to make a baffle to go on top of the sub? The baffle would be touching the box at the back of the trunk and be touching the very top of the trunk at the front of the trunk. The baffle would span the entire length of the trunk. The sub would then fire into the baffle and create compression loading like in a hatchback. Damn, that is tough to understand. If anyone knows what I am talking about and has a better explanation than please feel free to elaborate. I just drew it up quick. I am just wondering if the …

I'm just curious what are the advantages and disadvantages between TL enclosures, 4th order bandpass, and 6th order bandpass enclosures. These are all very new to me!

Yup I finally made a decision and the sub is in the mail!! My sx12 will be arriving soon and I need to build a box. I want to give it about 2.5 cubes after port displacement tuned to 34-35 hz. Building the box is not a problem, I got that part down. I just need help figuring port area/length. So any way you guys could help out would be awesome!! Thanks Tom

What are the benefits of using aeroports rather than a standard port? Are there any negatives? Just trying to learn a bit more before I waste my time building a new box. Thanks for the help guys

i have two fi bl 15`s n i wanna build a box for them tuned to 32hz but i have no idea wat size the box needs to be ? the build is for my xterra

I bet you'd never see me post this M5 haha anyways, ill post what im looking to do and what im working with. its my daily driver, a 2011 ford flex, with the stock Sony system, SYNC, etc. first up, HU. i dont want to replace the stock unit. its a good unit and i dont want to mess with an aftermarket one. theres a guy on the flex forum that runs a JBL MS8 with his stock unit and says its incredible. budget wise, im not going to throw a number, but i will state that i am not going to be paying like 500+ per speaker or anything crazy. this is just a daily driver and even the cheapest of a "sq" setup will sound good to me, as i mainly use pro audio in my other rides. i d…

Just starting to get really into car audio...Bought the Fi BL 18 last year and put it in a 4.0 cubic ft box running around 1100 RMS (i know its a small box, but its in a trunk).. haven't driven in over year, but about to start back up. My question is what makes the bass sound so different.. I mean my friend had 2 12's in a smaller box and his just sounds so clean and clear, while it sounds crisp inside, on the outside the car it really isn't banging like it is in the inside. My set up however just sounded mean and powerful inside the car and fairly loud on the outside..I've heard the terms (clean bass) and (dirty bass) before, but I'm not exactly sure what is meant by t…

I was bored at work once again and was th ok nking abput a b pillar once money allows me to Whats the best port location for a flat wall b-pillar top port going aross or side port driver side with subs going up on passenger side or passenger sidee port and subs on driver side.

Hello Guys, What do you think will work best for me and will sound louder, 12" in a 2.5 cu.ft. or 15" in 3 cu.ft. both will be tuned 37hz? Brand is IA Warden. Recommended enclosure for 12" - 2-3 cu. ft. Recommended enclosure for 15" - 3-5 cu. ft. Thanks in advance!

alright guys i was just wondering if someone could either link me to or explain the pro's / con's of tuning higher and tuning lower? and how to figure out how enclosures should be tuned in regards to diff subs and scenarios? thanks for any help guys! (i ask because im not new to building enclosers, ported/tuned, just want to understand the tuning aspect better because i plan on building some enclosures locally for some friends and friends of friends - just want to make sure i make the best enclosures that i can...i need the extra money..lol)

Only one sub rite now the other one will be in on Tuesday. Box is 7.1 cubes tuned @ 30hz Hit 144.4 sealed up at 43hz without much testing. 146.7 outlaw.

I have an older corolla, i want to go with a 4.0 ft^3 slot-port tuned @ 32Hz. Its a small trunk the max dimensions are 33x16.5x21.

Okay got 4 Old ass but brand new in box, pioneer SVC 150 RMS TW-W33C subs from the local shop, for 100 bones. I figured it'd be a good start for 4 12's to mess around with. Well i built a Box the size of the Explorer XLT's cargo area. So thats 30" Deep, 40" wide, and 16" tall. (exterior demensions). Anyways made a port thats like 3" wide (give or take), and about 5" deep. Well what did I tune this thing to?? I have no theile small parameters, for the subs so it was just a shot in the dark for this project. Its almost as good as my 2 Vipers in 47hz boxes made for DD's. Anways this setup is prolly going soon. I am trying to get jcc's 4 Vega Vega 12's to put back there next.…

New to car audio here. I recently purchased a SoundQubed HDS312 and SoundQubed Q1-1200.2 amp and plan on building my own box. It will be wired to 1ohm and installed in a 2006 Trailblazer. My question has to do with port firing direction, this is a work truck constantly filled with tools and I would like the sub to be facing up so it doesn't get damaged, and have the port facing the rear or both facing up. I've created two boxes both 2.49 cubic feet at 33.48hz: Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Hi guys Trying to get started on enclosure this morning for a Jeep Cherokee. Want to be able to see out of the back window. Listens to Metal/Rock. Tuning ~ 35-37hz okay Amp ~ Rockford Fosgate 40001 I now have these max internal dimensions to work with before speaker and bracing displacement. 40" W 23" H 24" D Thanks for any help Shizzzon I've sent you a new PM Goal is doing what it takes to get max air space so a ported enclosure is possible. Subs up port back. Box will also be double baffled. Can anyone double check my work and see what kind of port you come up with. Probably one rear chamber and one big port slotted and vented. Thanks in advance, Joe

I posted this on another forum and I would like to hear the thoughts from the gurus on here as well I have been ready through pages and pages of threads on adding rear fill to help maximize the front stage. After understanding how rear fill is used for this application many folks (including myself) have been thinking how to acquire the necessary L-R. On a side not L-R seems to be the most common method although there appears to be other methods for generating a rear fill signal which require a fancy processor. The MiniDSP 2x4 has a plug-in Rear/Center Channel. This plug-in gives you the generated L-R signal, xover, 31 band eq, and up to 27ms of delay. You can al…

I am using CAD right now to try to make a 3d design of my box. My question is if it is an 8 cu ft. box before displacement with external aeroports, what kind of internal bracing am I going to need even with a double baffle? This is getting a fully loaded 18" BTL by the way, with a Sundown 3000d. If I use 3/4" MDF will I have a problem with too much flexing? Also one question this is my first build, first system and I want to know what your guys preference is on MDF from different suppliers. All I really have around here is a Menards and I work there so I can get a small discount on it there. I just wondered what you guys think of the quality of Menard's MDF compared to ot…

im making a box for 2 12 Fi BL 12's and was wondering do i need a baffle for the 12's? becuse if i baffled it would mess with the volume and tuning of the box? sooo? not sure. the port is located inbetween the 12's. anyones 2cents?

Picked up 4 havoc 15's for my ext cab f150. Problem I have is my max width in the back is 58.5" and I want to fire up so I can't do a straight baffle and have enough surface area. I need to do an angled baffle and have come up with two ideas but wanted to throw it out to see if anybody had a preference between the two or maybe other suggestions. Max dimensions are roughly 25h x 23.5d x 58.5 long These will be sealed:

Add me to the list that can break windshields on call http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/...40;t=019121;p=1

Hi guys. I will have some time to hang out next week and wanted to use up all my extra MDF. I wanted to attempt to make a 4th order bandpass to put a couple PWX 10's in there and hook it up to my xbox. I know they are not subwoofers but they are my test speakers. If this box turns out good I will refine my design for a couple of real subs. This is what I have come up with. Each side chamber is 1 ft^3 sealed and the center chamber is 2 ft^3 tuned at 33hz. I have no clue how a 4th order works but this is what I have come up with. If you could explain to me how a 4th order works that might help me design this and also let me know if there is anything I can change to make my …

I'm planning a box for a trunk setup w/ folding rear seat. The subwoofer will be facing the rear and port at the rear or side, and enclosure moved as close to the cabin. What is the rule on height and width clearance of the enclosure in relation to the rear deck and side panels? Is there supposed to be space in between? Can either be flush?

Hey all, newb here! I just ordered a 12" BTL, so I have about 3 weeks to plan my build, with the biggest project being the box. I heard a while ago that in an SUV, a setup in which the subwoofer is pointing up, and the port is pointing back is optimal (straight from Memphis Audio), but yesterday I found a page showing tests that the subwoofer pointing back yielded higher SPL levels versus the same sub pointing up or even to the side. Which is correct? Does anyone have any personal experience with SUVs that can shed some light for me? I will probably be building the box to Fi's cut sheet dimensions, just need to know whether to put the sub on top, with the port facing…