SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I remember talking to shizz and a few other box builders on here and they all said "if the box is built well enough, no bracing is needed". Well is this true? I am working on a new box for my 15" - 38"w, 18"d, 16"h. I dont think I need bracing for a single 15" in that box, but I could be wrong (its a little oer 4.5 cuFt with port tuned to 32hz). I have been looking at other posts for people building their box and its either hit or miss for who does what with bracing. The one I just finished looking at is using bracing for a smaller box so once again, I am not sure. Forgot to add in - I will be putting a DC Level 5 15" in the box being powered by a 3500D

ok so im hopefully gonna get pix tomorrow and start my new build log. ill also get measurements of my hatch area tomorrow. i've got my 4ft3 box tuned at 33hz in my 93 lx mustang hatch right now and its just to big. it currently sets taking up half my backseat(folded down) and a 1/3 of the hatch area. reason for this is it wont slide back anymore in the hatch area cause the box hits rear window. saz-1500 is temporarely mounted to the backseat right behind front seats. so i need help on how to face my sub and port to get the max. loudness and airflow from my rf power hx2 15 while still being able to use my backseat for its intended purpose. also im set on 33hz for port tuni…

So the plan was to build a trunk box that was larger with more port area than the box I had previously but I ran into a bit of an issue much too late in process.... After we finished the box, I tried to slide it into the trunk. Didn't fit Damn you Corolla and you're itty bitty trunk opening. Inside of the trunk would have fit it fine but it could not be fit through the opening. Sooo, I have another backseat box. LOL It sounds insanely better which is a plus, but I guess i still fail a bit in the end. It'll do for now... 4 cubes @ 31hz, 18 sq inches of port per foot. Tell me what you think. (Besides telling me it needs to go in the trunk )

This is the final version of what's going into the back of my truck. (1) About 20 ft^3 box (2) ~15 ft^3 after port and displacements (3) somewhere around ~220 inches^3 port area (4) tuned to 32hz Thanks! * If you can't see the image then flickr is blocked where your using the computer.

So, in an effort to be cool I have been looking at getting a proper enclosure for my 12" Icon. Spoke with Andrew and I'm possibly going that route. First I'd like to find someone more local than across the US. I'm in Jersey and need someone close by if possible that can design/build an enclosure to spec for my boom boom. ... Anybody here on the east coast with the skills and tools?? Please let me know... Thanks!

I've spent a couple hours sketching up various designs on re calc and torres box calc. However, all I hear about any of the box design apps out there is that they are total crap. Working as much as I do these days I simply don't have time to become an expert in this area. Also understanding that install is a huge factor, I don't want to screw the design up. I am looking to build something this Saturday and want to get it done right so I don't have to change it again because of an improper design. I know there are a bunch of you out there that can do this stuff in your sleep. I don't mind paying for a solid design with cut sheet, etc. (i have PayPal) I also don't need anyt…

Okay, So to find out what Hz my car peaks at, do I try out different test tones to see which one is the loudest in my car? If so, then what do I do from there? Say my car peaks at 37hz...do I tuned my port to 37hz? Reason asking is because I built a 2.5cuft. net @ 32hz enclosure with a 4" aeroport. I can take it out and cut it down for SPL. I just want to do it right since I only have one tube insert left. I'm aiming for SPL, not a fartbox. Thanks!

Ok, well My box is done, and the entire system is up and running. I have a few issues but the one and most major concern, is that my sub box smells like its burning..lol I know, weird, but it smells as if it is charing or something and I don't know why. Anyone have any ideas? Is it just the "new box" smell or what? I smelled the port area and its deff coming from the box. Also, it seems to be pretty warm. Its a 15 inch IA LI. The sub seems kinda warm too, the dust cap, not really hott but warmish. Please help. My box is about 3.9cubes and 3.5 inches of port which is about 54 square inches total, its around there.. Any help would be nice.

So, I bought 2 12" DCONs and I'm currently building the box according to SSA's . I was wondering how I should go about building the front. Some websites suggest countersinking the subs so they are flush. I'm wondering what the correct design is for the actual SSA tech drawing. I'm sorry if this has been answered here before, I've searched and searched, but to no avail. I do plan on doing a build so that other people wont have much trouble. Thanks,

I am currently designing a box for a DD9512g which will be on a SAZ 2500D. I wanna tune to 36-37 Hz with about 2.5-2.6 net volume. My question is: What has greater potential increase of SPL. A lower port mach or more port area? Thanks!

I need to know how many tubes I would need and what length and what diameter opening to reach like 30hz in 3 cubes... with at least 36-48 square inches of port. And I also need to know the displacement of these I can't seem to figure it out.

Okay I am looking for some help in this forum because I am loosing hair over this. I currently have a system in my ride and it is progress though. Eclipse CD 5030 ARC AUDIO KS 300.2 MOREL DOTECH OVATION 6 ARC AUDIO KS 500.1 MINI DIAMOND AUDIO D3 15 Now first things first the KS 300.2 is powering the components at 180 x 2 @ 4 ohms The KS 500.1 Mini [500 x 1 @ 2 ohm] is powering the Diamond Audio D3 15 [1.75 sealed enclosure]. Anyways looking to swap out the Diamond Audio D3 for a Fi Audio sub most likely the SSD 15. I was told to get a single dual 1 ohm sub and wire it in series to make it a 2 ohm sub. Anyways I have a pair of Selenium 6 Midwoofers that are 8 ohm and mo…

These will be going in the back of a Grand Cherokee. I was originally thinking a single SA-12 but I think I like the idea of less box so I can keep more cargo area and my goal is a daily driver SQ setup so I think the 8's will be just fine for my goals and it stays within my pretty small budget. I have never built a ported box before so the design, tuning, and porting all are things I don't have a grasp on. I want to do a box that is wedge shaped to maximize the space available while leaving as much cargo area as I can. One thing I am not sure about is whether or not to go rear firing or top firing. The rear firing will allow for a slimmer box but I want to make sure I am…

im building my third box but first wall and i always wonderd if when i calculate the cubic feet of the box do i subtract the port cubic feet??? i have come up with a box thats 17.5cf but the port is 2.4cf and each woofer is .25cf so its like 14.6cf .please some one correct me if im wrong im not to sure

Relatively new to these kind of speakers(power hungry, big foam, high excursion monsters). Used to my old Orions and JBL GTI(the real ole ones that were based on pro drivers). Anyway, picked up a pair of these Eclipse SW8122DVC...spec sheet here(found in a different thread on this forum....TYVM) http://www.cartoys.com/cartoy/pdfs/Eclipse_spkr_manual.pdf The sheet seems to call for a sealed box.....but I have a feeling that a slotted port might be a good option too. I am shooting for a SQ system(yes I read here that there is no such thing as """""SQL"""""....lol, and I get the point, but I have had plenty of SQ systems that got REAL loud....sorry, it w…

As most of you know i am doing an imc plan for an audio enclosure company. During my research i read that cars equipped for SPL cannot play normal music. I want to know if that is true. I need to do a a technolgy review and i want to mke sure i know the difference between systems designed for SPL vs systems designed for SQ.

What type of design would this be considered? Would it have any disadvantages to a regular ported enclosure? Drivers would be mounted during the enclosure being built. Is there any negative effects by having the drivers facing each other? any cancellation? What would be a good distance to have between the opposing cones? The more the better? Thanks

I am wanting to add more low end to my truck and I think I have decided to do a rear console. But I dont know which way to fire the sub or subs. The box will be roughly 2.4cu and is 14x28x14. This is going in a 07 Harley F250. Here is a few pics of a cardboard make up box. So should I do one 12 rear facing and ported or do 2 10's or 2 12's down firing sealed? If I do a down firing box it will need to come up 2-3 inches so it would be alittle higher than pics. The box will be black carpet to match. Looking for hard hitting low clean bass. I could maybe get another .5 if I slope the front and bring it down. Looking at either SA-10's 12"s or SSA Dcon or ICONS and a SA-1500…

Hey gusy, im about to start the box build for my sa-12 and im just looking for a little help since its going to be my first real box build. I've came up with a design, but i used the RE box calculator to do so,which i've heard isn't all the accurate, so i was just wondering if someone could check the numbers for me. Heres the dimensions- 24" wide by 14" tall by 15" deep. the port is 2" wide with a length of 16". RE says that the box is 1.72 cubes at 32.8hz with 25in of port. Anybody willing to check this for me? Thanks

Ok I've had subs before but nothing too fancy just some 12" kicker cvxs in a ported box and running a 1200W (i think) MTX amp. Well i sold that and now I want something new. I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra and don't care about trunk space so if the subs take up the whole trunk so be it. The thing is my budget is $1000 and I don't want to upgrade my electrical or get very technical with my system. I listen to mainly electronic music (trance, house, etc..) and rap/hip hop once in a while. Now i've read here that if your going for a SQ setup your not going for loud. I understand this, but since I do listen to rap/hip hop does this mean I am not going to be able to enjoy …

Most vehicles are generally louder with a door open, window down vs the vehicle being sealed right? Depending on the db level is there an inverse effect and a sealed vehicle is louder? Or does it just depend on the frequency as an open door would make the cabin part of the enclosure (4th order?) I know there's different sanctions and different rules among classes, so certain cases I'm assuming the vehicle has to be sealed and can't have any windows/door open. So if my first theory is true, then why do people seal every air leak in their vehicle to gain dbs? Wouldn't they want places for the air to escape (like an open door, just not opened quite as much). OR would this^ b…

Was wondering what would be the best options(in terms of loudness) in regards to size,port direction and sub firing direction. Space I am working with is Depth: 23 in Height: 26 inches Width: 42 inches So I can fit a decent sized box in it. car looks like That one isn't mine but it gives you an idea of what I am working with, but will have inside pics up tomorrow I appreciate whatever help I get.

I'm redoing my box for 3-10" (or 3-12" not sure yet). Now currently my port is down low facing the dash. The current box is a TON louder with all the windows down vs up. I know this is normal sometime, but I don't like driving around disturbing everyone with them down, lol. So I was wondering if moving the port would help or make a difference? Port up with the subs, port back towards the back wall of the truck, or try it again with the new box faceing towards the dash again? Just an idea of what it looks like at this time. You can see the "box" at the bottom. It's an "semi-external" with 8" outside & 4" inside to save some space.

As always, I have been running around with ideas for the time when I have the money to actually do something with them. I have a large trunk, however with an extremely small opening to get into the trunk, and so I have always had to restrict the size of any box i intend to build so that i can sqeeze it past that opening. So for my next idea... how would it sound to have a single downfiring 15" ssd in a sealed box? For now it would be recieving only 500 watts rms untill I could upgrade. It would be raised 4 inches off of a wooden base, in a 18"X18"X10.75" box (interior dimensions). I have never seen this done in a trunk so i'm curious about its effects. My goals are a "cl…

I Just got a pair of Eclipse 8062 6.5" mid-bass's with there crossovers, and no tweeters for $60. I thought it was a good deal so i got them, I needed a upgrade from my polk db 4x6's. I tried the eclipse out in the house in a quickly made box and they sounded great, but I cannot get them to fit in the car where they will be completely sealed like they need to be. My speaker holes are 4x6" on the top of my dash facing the windshield in each corner (I will post pics). I need help figuring out a good solution to where they will sound good and look kinda decent in the car. I can't put them in the doors and i am not allowed to do any permanent modifications to this car. So wha…