SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok, I just want to know some of your guys experiences with t-nuts or huricain nuts, wich ones hold better? The screws I am using are not holding well in mdf so I need to get somthing stronger

So, I bought 2 12" DCONs and I'm currently building the box according to SSA's . I was wondering how I should go about building the front. Some websites suggest countersinking the subs so they are flush. I'm wondering what the correct design is for the actual SSA tech drawing. I'm sorry if this has been answered here before, I've searched and searched, but to no avail. I do plan on doing a build so that other people wont have much trouble. Thanks,

ok so im hopefully gonna get pix tomorrow and start my new build log. ill also get measurements of my hatch area tomorrow. i've got my 4ft3 box tuned at 33hz in my 93 lx mustang hatch right now and its just to big. it currently sets taking up half my backseat(folded down) and a 1/3 of the hatch area. reason for this is it wont slide back anymore in the hatch area cause the box hits rear window. saz-1500 is temporarely mounted to the backseat right behind front seats. so i need help on how to face my sub and port to get the max. loudness and airflow from my rf power hx2 15 while still being able to use my backseat for its intended purpose. also im set on 33hz for port tuni…

I am currently designing a box for a DD9512g which will be on a SAZ 2500D. I wanna tune to 36-37 Hz with about 2.5-2.6 net volume. My question is: What has greater potential increase of SPL. A lower port mach or more port area? Thanks!

Okay I am looking for some help in this forum because I am loosing hair over this. I currently have a system in my ride and it is progress though. Eclipse CD 5030 ARC AUDIO KS 300.2 MOREL DOTECH OVATION 6 ARC AUDIO KS 500.1 MINI DIAMOND AUDIO D3 15 Now first things first the KS 300.2 is powering the components at 180 x 2 @ 4 ohms The KS 500.1 Mini [500 x 1 @ 2 ohm] is powering the Diamond Audio D3 15 [1.75 sealed enclosure]. Anyways looking to swap out the Diamond Audio D3 for a Fi Audio sub most likely the SSD 15. I was told to get a single dual 1 ohm sub and wire it in series to make it a 2 ohm sub. Anyways I have a pair of Selenium 6 Midwoofers that are 8 ohm and mo…

im building my third box but first wall and i always wonderd if when i calculate the cubic feet of the box do i subtract the port cubic feet??? i have come up with a box thats 17.5cf but the port is 2.4cf and each woofer is .25cf so its like 14.6cf .please some one correct me if im wrong im not to sure

I need to know how many tubes I would need and what length and what diameter opening to reach like 30hz in 3 cubes... with at least 36-48 square inches of port. And I also need to know the displacement of these I can't seem to figure it out.

Relatively new to these kind of speakers(power hungry, big foam, high excursion monsters). Used to my old Orions and JBL GTI(the real ole ones that were based on pro drivers). Anyway, picked up a pair of these Eclipse SW8122DVC...spec sheet here(found in a different thread on this forum....TYVM) http://www.cartoys.com/cartoy/pdfs/Eclipse_spkr_manual.pdf The sheet seems to call for a sealed box.....but I have a feeling that a slotted port might be a good option too. I am shooting for a SQ system(yes I read here that there is no such thing as """""SQL"""""....lol, and I get the point, but I have had plenty of SQ systems that got REAL loud....sorry, it w…

Ok, well My box is done, and the entire system is up and running. I have a few issues but the one and most major concern, is that my sub box smells like its burning..lol I know, weird, but it smells as if it is charing or something and I don't know why. Anyone have any ideas? Is it just the "new box" smell or what? I smelled the port area and its deff coming from the box. Also, it seems to be pretty warm. Its a 15 inch IA LI. The sub seems kinda warm too, the dust cap, not really hott but warmish. Please help. My box is about 3.9cubes and 3.5 inches of port which is about 54 square inches total, its around there.. Any help would be nice.

Ok I've had subs before but nothing too fancy just some 12" kicker cvxs in a ported box and running a 1200W (i think) MTX amp. Well i sold that and now I want something new. I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra and don't care about trunk space so if the subs take up the whole trunk so be it. The thing is my budget is $1000 and I don't want to upgrade my electrical or get very technical with my system. I listen to mainly electronic music (trance, house, etc..) and rap/hip hop once in a while. Now i've read here that if your going for a SQ setup your not going for loud. I understand this, but since I do listen to rap/hip hop does this mean I am not going to be able to enjoy …

Was wondering what would be the best options(in terms of loudness) in regards to size,port direction and sub firing direction. Space I am working with is Depth: 23 in Height: 26 inches Width: 42 inches So I can fit a decent sized box in it. car looks like That one isn't mine but it gives you an idea of what I am working with, but will have inside pics up tomorrow I appreciate whatever help I get.

I am wanting to add more low end to my truck and I think I have decided to do a rear console. But I dont know which way to fire the sub or subs. The box will be roughly 2.4cu and is 14x28x14. This is going in a 07 Harley F250. Here is a few pics of a cardboard make up box. So should I do one 12 rear facing and ported or do 2 10's or 2 12's down firing sealed? If I do a down firing box it will need to come up 2-3 inches so it would be alittle higher than pics. The box will be black carpet to match. Looking for hard hitting low clean bass. I could maybe get another .5 if I slope the front and bring it down. Looking at either SA-10's 12"s or SSA Dcon or ICONS and a SA-1500…

Most vehicles are generally louder with a door open, window down vs the vehicle being sealed right? Depending on the db level is there an inverse effect and a sealed vehicle is louder? Or does it just depend on the frequency as an open door would make the cabin part of the enclosure (4th order?) I know there's different sanctions and different rules among classes, so certain cases I'm assuming the vehicle has to be sealed and can't have any windows/door open. So if my first theory is true, then why do people seal every air leak in their vehicle to gain dbs? Wouldn't they want places for the air to escape (like an open door, just not opened quite as much). OR would this^ b…

I Just got a pair of Eclipse 8062 6.5" mid-bass's with there crossovers, and no tweeters for $60. I thought it was a good deal so i got them, I needed a upgrade from my polk db 4x6's. I tried the eclipse out in the house in a quickly made box and they sounded great, but I cannot get them to fit in the car where they will be completely sealed like they need to be. My speaker holes are 4x6" on the top of my dash facing the windshield in each corner (I will post pics). I need help figuring out a good solution to where they will sound good and look kinda decent in the car. I can't put them in the doors and i am not allowed to do any permanent modifications to this car. So wha…

I've been trying super hard to get my box calculations right. Can someone confirm these #'s?? I really hope I'm on the money. in advance. Box is 32" tall, 15" deep, and 18" wide. Port is 16.5" tall (internal), 2.25" wide, and 40" long. Looking to be 31-32hz, 2.25cu.ft. after sub and port displacement. :fingers crossed:

Hey gusy, im about to start the box build for my sa-12 and im just looking for a little help since its going to be my first real box build. I've came up with a design, but i used the RE box calculator to do so,which i've heard isn't all the accurate, so i was just wondering if someone could check the numbers for me. Heres the dimensions- 24" wide by 14" tall by 15" deep. the port is 2" wide with a length of 16". RE says that the box is 1.72 cubes at 32.8hz with 25in of port. Anybody willing to check this for me? Thanks

I've heard of people blocking off the rear cabin vents ( behind the vent caps) to gain loudness in the cabin anyone here dine it or does anyone know if it works because with my system turned up if you walk to the back you can here a farting noise coming out and also you can feel the air coming out

right now the wife drives a 01 accord coupe with a single RE REX12D4 off around 200 watts from a RF 300.1 in a 1.5ft^3 box tuned to 35Hz front firing right behind the back seat. would it hit the lows alot better or have more output if I were to replace it with a SRX15D4 in an infinite baffle setup off the same amp? I know Id probably end up lowering the gain seeing as that SRX might not even handle 200 watts in an IB setup. and another idea, what about just using the REX12 in an IB setup since its already in my possession?

What type of design would this be considered? Would it have any disadvantages to a regular ported enclosure? Drivers would be mounted during the enclosure being built. Is there any negative effects by having the drivers facing each other? any cancellation? What would be a good distance to have between the opposing cones? The more the better? Thanks

So, as you guys know, I'm an SPL nut. But as of lately I'm getting pretty tired of the completely bone stock setup in my daily driver. I had been talking about doing a nice install for a while, but frankly don't really know where to begin. I was talking to a buddy of mine (former IASCA SQ competitor), and he was talking about doing some A-pillars with 3" mids and tweeters and then doing some 7" midbasses in the doors. Frankly, I have no idea how that would work or what equipment to look at. I even thought about just going basic with some nice components in the doors (tweeter and 6.5"), and then maybe getting a little fancy with some 8" woofer kickpods to go along with a…

Ok, well My trunk openings are garbage, my trunk is HUGE but, I can't get a box inside the trunk from the rear or from the back seats. So, my only 2 solutions are this. 1.) I lay down plastic so I don't get anything in the back of my car, And I pre-drill the screw holes and put the box together while it is in the trunk. Only problem i see with this really, is the internal piece for the slotted port. 2.) I build the box split down the center, having a top half and a bottom half, which would be Biscuit jointed or using dowels and thenglued together in the trunk, and then over the joint external strips would be screwed into place to hold the joint together. Both of these are…

i am building a sub box for a m3. it will be in the spare tire well. the box size that i am shooting for is about 0.5cu ft after sub and port. the cubes i am using i got for sundown audio. i am just looking for a nice sq sound. i am not sure where to tune it but my best guess would be 35hz. i am looking to go ported and need the port size and how long the port should be. i'm only running about 300watts.

I built my box today it is around 1.75cuft and I went ahead and sealed it. I took a old circle port out of a old box I bought and it is adjustable! I was like holy crap.. anyways I believe it is a 4" port and it adjusts from I believe 4 inches in length to around 10-12 inches. What would the length of the tubing need to be for lets say.. 30-32hz?

say you have a box with the cuft you want to port it with but this box has a reallly strange shape will that change the port size,length, or anything at all? its going to be for a ssd 12 the box has 2.12 cuft going with a round port

I need help making a 2 4in port box enclosure tuned to about 33hz. can anyone help?