SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i can't find it anywhere, where do you all buy your polyfill?

here we go Here you go. more to come Later

For those with hatchbacks and/or hatchback experience. Folding rear seats, so large enclosures will work. What enclosure has worked best for you? CRX style? Sub up, back, forward, or angled towards glass? Port up, back, forwatd, or angled towards glass? Daily driver. I'm tempted to try something in the Mazda for the uberwoofer. Can be pretty large, so uncommon enclosures can work as well. It'll boil down to having the sub and port firing forward between the seats or any of the above ways.

i got bored and decided to draw this up, its right around 2.5 cubes @ 35 hz. gonna be for two 10's ( AQ SDC2.5's) Its gonna go in my chevy std. cab. Any comments or suggestions?

anyone?

I'm redoing my box for 3-10" (or 3-12" not sure yet). Now currently my port is down low facing the dash. The current box is a TON louder with all the windows down vs up. I know this is normal sometime, but I don't like driving around disturbing everyone with them down, lol. So I was wondering if moving the port would help or make a difference? Port up with the subs, port back towards the back wall of the truck, or try it again with the new box faceing towards the dash again? Just an idea of what it looks like at this time. You can see the "box" at the bottom. It's an "semi-external" with 8" outside & 4" inside to save some space.

i have a 16x19 area for the bottom of my box. im downfiring my ICON 10. any reason to have the whole bottom elevated instead of just a 12 inch square around the sub? Im trying to gain some volume anywhere i can.

Ok question 1 : Im planning on building my own box but when they say have 12-16 sq in of port space what does that mean? Which part of the port do you measure to get that figure. 2 : would a T-line be a better choice for 2 BTL 12s with a 2.5cuft box? or a regular L-port?

Alright, I'm going full blow post with this. I'm tired of wasting paint. I've been painting this damn thing with color now for around two weeks. Giving plenty of time to dry between coats, wet sand, etc. and it still looks like shit. There's 6 coats of automotive primer on it before I started painting as well yet it still continues to soak in, like so. This is after around 3 coats of paint. BTW the color is deep jewel green with the metal flake in it. Same color that's on my '70 chevy. And this is after around 8 coats of paint. The picture was taken this morning moments before coat #9. So what can I do with this? I was wondering if a coat of clear over the pain…

Just as the title says, I'm paying this kid 10$ for a box design. He is going to be working with me to help figure it out what would be the best results, I think so atleast... Is that a decent deal?

Ok, so my buddy does a real decent job at painting and can do pretty decent job at detailed pictures. So what i wanna know is how can i get this type of painting onto an enclosure. Its made with MDF wood 3/4" thick if that means anything. Now im also trying to figure out how to paint this wood so it will look smooth and as less like wood as possible, which means if that cant be done then the detailed painting may not work. Anyways what i want to know is what can i do to the surface, that wont ruin sound quality, that i can paint primer or whatever onto in order to do this paint job to it? im at a complete stop here so any links or anything will help me out at this point. …

All my experience in audio comes with sealed enclosures, even so, after having visited this site, I feel like my past work was rather half assed and mindless. This is what I have so far: I am planning on using two soundsplinter rli10s, and I could be perfectly content with keep it sealed, but I want to try my hand at porting and perhaps learn something new. I have been trying to talk to a few people about porting this enclosure, but I am not really getting any good information, and I am also reluctant to trust any information from WinISD. From what I understand, that program can be slightly flawed. My box is 1.08 cubic feet after all displacements are taken into account…

Does or can anyone help me figure out what kind of space is needed to run 2 12" Z V.2 subs in a 4th order in the trunk.

If i where planning on useing external ports for my SPL set up (probably a pair of 6") to decrease cancelation and turbulance would it still be a good idea toconjure up some type of brace for the port? i would assume so but im not 100% sure. Keep in mind i want to easily be able to change the length of the port not only for trial and error testing to get the highest score but also so i can give it a daily tuning for the ride too and from the competitions and so i dont have to lug the Ava out of and into my truck every other weekend.

I've been steadily trying to find the best way to mount ordinary PVC pipe in a box. I looked at lowes and found these "Closet Flanges". They Fit on the inside or outside of the PVC (depending on size, in my case, the inside of a 4" pvc). The flanges have a, well.. flange on the outside with 4 screw holes that could be used for mounting. I think this would work perfectly, except when the flange is inserted into the pipe, it's about 1/8" thick and reduces the diamater of the end of the pipe to about 3.75". Is this enough to alter the affects of the port? The decrease in diameter is only about 1-1.5" long, then it flares back out to 4". What are you guys opinion? Here's a li…

ok, i done a trunk build but ports not tuned right and i want to get lower and louder so im going to be removing the rear seat in my 95 fleetwood and thats where the box shall go. i want to keep it at window line so these are my max measurements to work with height 23" depth 26" width 56" height really needs to be 22"-23" but the width and depth can be smaller if need be, with those specs its around 16.5 cubes before subs and port, i want to be tuned around 32-33hz for rap music whats the best size box for this application, please help, any help is mucho appreciated

I am looking at some new midbass drivers and it looks that they should be ported. So if and when I build this enclosure in/on my door is there a recommendation on where to point the port in this application? thanks in advance.

i am about to attempt to build my first box for my two db drive platinum 12s and a few friends have been telling me that a down fire box would be the way to go I am wondering if it really makes any difference in the bass level or spl I also planning on porting the box but I'm not sure where the best location for the port would be I'm new to all this when it comes to fabricating an enclosure. Its going to be about a 4 cubic foot box in an extended cab s10 with the port tuned to around 32-35 hertz. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Was just wondering if anyone has built a series 6th order for a 12" or 15" ZCON. Would be interested in any enclosure specs and experiences you could share. Thanks.

what would be the best sealed box volume for a XXX18 v3 off a 2kW Hertz amp.... and yes.....this sub was made for SQ

ok so i've got an sp4 15 on the way. its going in the trunk of a 94 lincoln mark 8. i've built a box already thats a tight fit to get into the trunk and its only 3.5ft^3 tuned at 33hz. ive got plenty of trunkspace left the problem is getting anything bigger thru the trunk opening. so im coming to you guys for help/tips for building in the trunk. so what would be the easiest was to assemble in the trunk?

I just bought a 15" fi btl dual 2 ohm off of craigslist. The box that came with it is obviously way too small and tuned to high. I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what size of box and all that stuff I need to get what I want out of it. The current box is 19"x18x17" that's about 3 cubes and inside that enclosure is half port and the speaker. Way too small. It lacks lower end very much. Im running it off of a autotek ss1500 at 1 ohm. I want it to be audibly loud and hit as hard as possible. I have built many boxes but just want to really make sure this one comes out really well. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Went out to a Texas Bass Productions event today with the Sebring wit 1 12" Soundstream SPLX Quad 1 ohm.. All 3 runs it did a 151.3 Got 1st place in my class(no one was close to me). Brian(Lord Baccus) did a 151.2 with a set of bad RCA's with a Pierce Audio Products 1 off(specially made for him) 15" MOAB subwoofer, ...sorry bout that Brian..we'll et em' next time! Every ones asking about the Sundown Audio amps that me and Brian are kicking butt with....most people haven't heard of them...they are getting a ton of attention... Hoping to get higher on this single 12"...

Hey guys, a friend of mine is looking to install his Tymphany Lat 700 in his Chevy Astro. Currently I'm looking at 40x21.5x10 with 2 3" ports. Length of 15" for the ports tuned to 24Hz. Torres says this is correct. It's mainly a show piece, and he wants to get it moving. Can anyone help me out with a box design or recommendations? It's kind of an odd driver(s) http://www.tymphany.com/files/resources/dlat/LAT700-001.pdf Sub will be used on music not Home Theater

well I really miss my back seat. Right now I have a false floor and a box back there. I want to do a blow through really bad. I dont know how to make the box though. The sub is an 18" Fi Audio BTL. I cant mount it vertically because the sub is taller then the bed. It will have to be at some type of an angle. Then I run into the problem of how to make the actual box and how it comes into the cab.Any help would be awesome and if someone could draw up something really nice there could be some cash involved. Right now im running around 7 cubes and ported to 31 hz..I want it to be tuned low cuz it kills the lows with the 18"..Thanks for the help. Here is what it looks like rig…