SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I suck at google sketch. Can someone help me? I know the dimensions but I would like to see it in 3D. Width, 38 inches Height, 18 inches Top Depth, 10 inches Bottom Depth, 18 inches This is for a 15 inch sub. The sub will be mounted on the angled panel. I am using two 4 inch aero ports that will be mounted on the top 10x38 panel.

hey, i am familiar with both ported and sealed boxes. but im not sure what is better, i know that ported boxes hit cleaner and i know ported you will have more spl. but i heard that with ported you get cone distoration and the sub hits sloppier. im just wondering what your specs are? thanks

I've been steadily trying to find the best way to mount ordinary PVC pipe in a box. I looked at lowes and found these "Closet Flanges". They Fit on the inside or outside of the PVC (depending on size, in my case, the inside of a 4" pvc). The flanges have a, well.. flange on the outside with 4 screw holes that could be used for mounting. I think this would work perfectly, except when the flange is inserted into the pipe, it's about 1/8" thick and reduces the diamater of the end of the pipe to about 3.75". Is this enough to alter the affects of the port? The decrease in diameter is only about 1-1.5" long, then it flares back out to 4". What are you guys opinion? Here's a li…

I started to notice my sub was sounding a little weird today, so i check my box to make sure everything was ok, but it wasnt! i must have a leak in my trunk seal, because my box was soaked with water. booo. but anyways, i will be building a new box after i fix the leaks, and i need some advice on a different box setup. MY box was about 5 cubes after sub and brace displacement, tuned to 27hz. (sub/port back). I wasnt really impressed with the output at lower frequencies, and the overall output from the setup. (ss rl-p 18, aq2200d) Can anyone suggest a different design that can maximize the overall output? It's in a 1990 lincoln towncar. Thanks!

Who's Going,? im not, ill be in Key West, but if there is enough interst in the people who are we can have an SSA meet prior to SBN. Kickin', i know you are going, stop by my house on your way so i can hear 150 Certified on TL.

For Starters it will be going in a 2004 Chevy Tahoe. My demensions i would like to stay in are:30Dx47Wx27H. Box will be for 2 18 inch DSS Ethos powered by a Soundqubed 3500.1 5cft net for each sub tuned to 32 hertz. I wanna do Subs Up Port back and havent decided if i want to go with aeros or a traditional slot port design. Which would be easier for a first time box builder? Included some photos of "my hoe". Thanks in advance for the help guys!!!!

http://www.springshowdown.com/main07.html How many of you fools will be at the show? There are no shows in this area, so i'm glad that MECA is finally in this area. With that being said, all of the haters out there(you know who you are), don't start any negative comments

its for to 10's

Well, I'm adding 2 more DP21"s to my Expedition in a month or two. I was planning on doing a clam wall at the B-pillars. But I also started thinking doing a diamond type enclosure would be pretty sweet too. So I'm looking for some opinions on what you think would be louder, first and foremost, and look better. Which ever design I go with will be at the B-pillars, between 35 and 40 cubes, tuned to 32hz. Please explain why you voted the way you did. I have never done either of these designs, so any tips are also appreciated. The subs.

I picked up a btl d2 for 250 tonight, and have it in 4 cubes at 32 hz. I need a box to really let it shine. I was thinking 8cubes @ 30hz. I am unsure of how much port to have though. Most likely a slot. My question is what is a good rule of thumb to go by for port area? I've heard mixed things about the 12-16in/cube rule.

Who has any experience with CF? such as: http://www.fibreglast.com/category.php?cat...src=HelpfulProd

so ive never really found a concrete answer to this, but for sq is a smaller or larger box better? my 15 fi q is in a 4^3 box it is very peaky down low, with kind of weak higher bass(by higher i mean 40-55 not like midbass), and fi says 2.8-4.0 is good. my brothers 12 fi q is in a 1.8/1.9 ^3 box and it says from 1.8-2.5 and it sounds amazing and even from LOWWWW to pretty high. im assuming the smallest recommended box is good for sq/evenness, and the largest is good for spl/peakiness? (I think i just made up words!) oh btw we are both tuned about the same(31 for me 32 for him)

so in torres i put a 23.5" length into the calcs. this gives me a 35.07hz tune with a port dimension of 23.5X4.75" and 7.07 cubic. the physical port length is 17.25 according to torres. i need to verify what my port actually is and i feel a bit confused by the measuring. if i measure the port down teh center wich is how i understand the correct measurement to me then i get 20 and 3/8" in length, then i measure horizontally to the inside of the MDF sheet wich is 3 and 1/8". so that makes the port 23.5" long down the center. if i measure on the face of the wood itself i get 18.75" long and accounting for 3/4" thickness of the port itself. on top of that it makes it 2.375…

this is the box i decided to make for my 2 sa12's am i ready to cut it out or is there anything else i need to do? and does the cut list take the port into account? or is that a separate cut?

What resonant frequency of this car(honda civic 4d 2007)? Your recommendations for construction of the ideal box(spl), for Solox 12!

Sorry for the long post. I just bought a pair of Beals Bros 8" midbass drivers. I have no specs on them. I know you are probably saying to yourself, why would he buy them if he doesnt know anything about them. Well they were cheap and in great shape. Now on the the questions. As many of you know I am currently running a set of CDT HD-62 pushed by a Memphis 16-mc300 ~150x2@4ohm (depending on voltage) ~240x2@2ohm ( " " " ) Here is where the questions start. The Beals is 2 ohm nominal and the HDs are 4ohm. that would make the final load 6ohm for series ( not enough) or 1.3ohm for parallel ( too low). I have heard that lower impedance=more distorti…

what paints and primers should i use to paint a subwoofer box i want it to have a glossy black look thanks -Irvin

heya... i would like to know how close can a sub(magnet) come the back side .... ..(if the sub is 10" ... can the depth of the box be 16 > or if the sub is 18" ... can the width be 19" ) ...can it effect the sound ..?

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…

Hi, I finally decided on building my own HT subwoofer (50%HT and 50$ music) and I want to build the best I can of cours at a reasonnable price. I believe I should go with a 18" and planning on using a 7cu3 box. I also love massive bass and I would agree to have a little more power even if I loose a little quality, this is why I am going with a ported box. Now, is the Fi Q 18 would be my best bet? What about the TEAM serie? I don't know yet what frequency I will be using, somewhere arounf 30hz? For the box, here is the 18" shema : http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ Thank for your help!

Im designing my wall for two 18 zcons. Going in an 87 dodge colt lol will have them wired to .7 on an audioque 3500.1. upgrading to a 5k or 7k in near future so keep that in mind. so far i figure I will have 14 ft3 for my subs after all displacements. so 7 cubes each My port will be 197 sq in tuned to 34. will be 5.5" x 35 3/4" roughly 14 sq in per foot. Am i building the box too big? since i plan on upgrading to bigger power should i go smaller? also give opinions on port size and tuning. or do i stop asking questions and just get it done and find out lol

Hey everyone, Im in the process of building a new system in my 2002 WRX Sport Wagon. 1. Head unit: Pioneer Avic N1 2. Amp: Planet Audio BB175.4B RMS Power (2 ohms) 195 WRMS x 4 RMS Power (4 Ohms) 140 WRMS x 4 Bridged Power (4 Ohms) 345 WRMS x 2 Signal-To-noise Ratio 102 DB Frequency Response 20Hz - 20KHz Dimensions: 6-1/2" W x 2" H x 16-5/8" L FEATURES Variable Bass Boost (0 To +12DB) Switchable Input Sensitivity: 100mV-2V Or 2V-8V Tri-Mode Operation OBAC-1 Audio Enhancement System Continuously Variable 18DB/Octave High And Low Pass Crossovers Low Level Inputs And Output 3. Front Speakers: Kenwood KFC-P708 65 watts rms 4. Audio integrati…

Hey guys, my friend has a Ford Ranger and he asked me if having the port facing the door or roof would be louder. And I decided to ask on here for him. Reason because he is getting a box designed, what would the pros/cons of having it facing either way be? Thanks in advance.

Um.... its me again i might need a box design either for a kicker solo baric 15' s15l5 for an explorer...... Or im am going to try to buy a fi btl 15' either one would be nice to have a box design for both of these are going into the back of a 95 explorer.... I do not have the messurements quiet yet but i should have them tomorrow.... I do not need anything special just a simple design to get me by for the time being....

Long story short my friend built my box and it turned out horrible it wasent his fault he did not have enough tools or supplies but I'm getting a shop to build me a new one and I have an original design but its to wide but I can add to the height my dimensions are 22 deep 33 high 55 wide the box design is 27 high 27 deep and 54 wide wouldn't the volume even out if I went 32 high and 22 deep?