SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Looking for some tips on the trunk set-up. I have an 18" BL in there currently that is upfiring as it is the only arrangement I could use and still get it in the trunk. I'm looking at switching to a 15" though and can change it around if you guys have tried anything that works well. Firing into seats, firing back, port arrangement. stuff like that that I was unable to with the 18". Looking to save some time before I start tuning!! maybe you guys have had some good tips for me to start with. Any other good trunk tips would be appreciated to. If I compete with this in my car, it'll be a first. I've typically only competed with hatchbacks

i should have the money soon for the zcon 15 so i want to start getting ideas and thoughts on a box size for the sub. im putting it in my '95 ranger. for electric, i have a iraggi 260amp alternator, big 3, shuriken bt60 bat. and all 0 gauge wiring. i have a audioque 3500.1 that i will be running at 2 ohm (should have 2000watts which is plenty for 1 zcon 15) reason being is that it will be much easier on my electrical, and easier on the amp as well. im more for SQ on this build for those wondering. i love the low lowsss haha. i havent found any box recommendations so im looking for a bit of help. any is appreciated!

its for to 10's

Hey all.I REALLY want to build my own box but im worried that it would be to hard to do.I would like a simple dual 15" ported box for my type r 15's.I just don't know if its something I can tackle or not.So my question is in your guys eyes on a scale of 1-10 1 being easy as pie 10 being hard as can be,how tough is it to build a ported box?Also is there like a site or something that can help me with a design and other stuff like that?Thanks

What resonant frequency of this car(honda civic 4d 2007)? Your recommendations for construction of the ideal box(spl), for Solox 12!

I've been steadily trying to find the best way to mount ordinary PVC pipe in a box. I looked at lowes and found these "Closet Flanges". They Fit on the inside or outside of the PVC (depending on size, in my case, the inside of a 4" pvc). The flanges have a, well.. flange on the outside with 4 screw holes that could be used for mounting. I think this would work perfectly, except when the flange is inserted into the pipe, it's about 1/8" thick and reduces the diamater of the end of the pipe to about 3.75". Is this enough to alter the affects of the port? The decrease in diameter is only about 1-1.5" long, then it flares back out to 4". What are you guys opinion? Here's a li…

Well the classes are now set and instead of using 4 ohm ratings since there are too many Grey areas I am using rated maximum rms power at the amps lowest rated ohms. That way a 1 ohm 1000 watt amp is still in the same class as a 2 ohm 1000 watt amp. This will also make people see the difference between the swap meet power amp they bought compared to a real rated power amp in the same class and should bring those customers to the retail store instead for their next purchase especially if the retailer explains why his B.S rated amp just lost to the real power rated amp.The classes are more geared to the normal customer more than the bigger powerhouse systems but still allow…

In my last design in my hatchback, i had 2 12s off of 4,400w of power and a local team in my area was bracing the outside of my car and let me know that they could feel air seeping through the seal of my sunroof. Also, the sunroof was flexing pretty good which isn't good either for SPL. I am currently building a wall so it will REALLY flex now with lots and lots of air seepage... So, hehe, what do i do? The only thing i could think of is stick as many towels or shirts in between the glass and sliding door as possible but this is a temporary solution only in the lanes. For longterm bracing, what should i do?

Okily dokily, in the middle of building my kicks. Was thinking of ways to deaden them. Got to thinking about the idea behind using mat's and such. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't the idea behind them to add enough mass so that the offending resonations are either stopped. or moved out of the audible range. With this in mind, I got to thinking of best ways to add mass and came up with an idea. I have a rather large stash of lead shot ( used to reload shells for my dad ) . Any thoughts on coating the inside of the kicks with an epoxy lead shot mix ? Seems like it would work. Any input would greatly be appreciated.

This is my first post on here, and need some advice from the BTL gurus I just picked up two BTL 18's, dual 2's, fully loaded, and will be running them off of two modded Memphis Mojo MC-2000d amplifiers (1 on each driver at 1 ohm), approx. 3000 watts each. In my vehicle, which is a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, I don't have a whole lot of useable space to work with and still maintain practicality, so the enclosure is going to be a bit tight for specs. I will run the subs inverted to try to save as much airspace as I can, but I only have a total of 11.2 cubes to work with, before port displacement. This is going to be a daily setup, and I am more than likely going to build it…

So I drive a f150 ext cab with a kicker cvx 15" with a 6 cube box tuned at 32hz. Right now it is powered by this POS sony 1200 2 channel. The first time I metered I did a 139.5 door open. I metered yesterday and the best I could do is a 137.2 The testing was done on a term lab. Now the things that changed: 4 ft shorter power wire than before - better bigger ground - better new rcas - better new bigger remote - I know this wont change anything just thought I'll throw it out there The only difference than before would be the temperature. It is roughly 35-45 degrees hotter outside now. Can the ambient temperature effect db?? Also my buddy metered too and he had a decrea…

I have 2 Orion H2 12.2's to be powered by 2 Orion 2500d's and want to build an enclosure for them,the only problem is i'm not sure of the air space to run.I want to shoot for max spl,i was told 4 cubes per sub tuned @34 hz is prime but i'm not buying it.Any help would be appreciated,thanx!

i tried using torres calculator from the smd forum, ya not very good at it. i have 2 sa 12s. and i would greatly appreciate it if someone helped me out. I have a 98 chevy blazer so space is not an issue.

Vehicle is 2door hardtop jeep wrangler. I'm going to put 4 12" icons in, I can either have the drivers face towards the dash or up, port can face any direction (guessing i'll do rear, but perhaps front would be better for semi wall?). If I have the drivers facing the front towards dash, the box will not be a wall (there'll be ~15 inches on sides and top, around the box). This is what I was envisioning for upfiring, or just rotated and move port for front firing. Also, The box will be directly behind driver and passenger seats, and will have about 15inchs of space from rear of box to tailgate (gotta have some storage )

I picked up a btl d2 for 250 tonight, and have it in 4 cubes at 32 hz. I need a box to really let it shine. I was thinking 8cubes @ 30hz. I am unsure of how much port to have though. Most likely a slot. My question is what is a good rule of thumb to go by for port area? I've heard mixed things about the 12-16in/cube rule.

is there any disadvantage to having an extremely large port? lets say 20+ inches per cube?

I've heard of people blocking off the rear cabin vents ( behind the vent caps) to gain loudness in the cabin anyone here dine it or does anyone know if it works because with my system turned up if you walk to the back you can here a farting noise coming out and also you can feel the air coming out

Ok, so I have a 3.3 total cuft box as a center console and i cannot reach over to the other side of the truck to roll down the window/unlock the door. (no power windows/locks sucks) I hear if you add poly fill to an enclosure, the enclosure behaves as if it is larger.. So I was thinking build a smaller box, but add polyfill to make it seem larger. So in the end, I will not have sacrifice output with a smaller box. If this is possible, about how much air space could polyfill potentially account for?

has anyone here tried to build an 8th order bandpass. i ask because i have had decent succeswith the 4th and 6th orders but now im thinking of trying a 8th order just for spl and was wondering if anyone had any experience building one

Who's Going,? im not, ill be in Key West, but if there is enough interst in the people who are we can have an SSA meet prior to SBN. Kickin', i know you are going, stop by my house on your way so i can hear 150 Certified on TL.

Um.... its me again i might need a box design either for a kicker solo baric 15' s15l5 for an explorer...... Or im am going to try to buy a fi btl 15' either one would be nice to have a box design for both of these are going into the back of a 95 explorer.... I do not have the messurements quiet yet but i should have them tomorrow.... I do not need anything special just a simple design to get me by for the time being....

i currently have a fi btl 12". tunned at 34 hertz, hitting 139.7db. i was told that tunning higher is better for hitting high spl. there is a competition comeing up on the 10th. and the kids at the local car audio dealer ship told me that there were people with 1 12" hitting 142's. does anybody no how high i should tune my box so i can compette.

s10 blazer. i have 6.5 door space tweeter space in dash.if i added another set of comps in the kick panel would i wreck my sq. just wondering being that one tweet in dash one down in kick. how about comps in kick panel and use the door for just a 6.5 mid

Has anyone used eDead for sound dampening. I know that their subwoofers arent great, is this true with their dampening materials as well? I won't pay the outrageous price for Dynamat, I can't afford to spend $400+ to do my car. I can get eDead for .80 cents per square foot. Even if i had to double it up, it would still be considerably cheaper than Dynamat, Second Skin, etc. What do you guys think?

so in torres i put a 23.5" length into the calcs. this gives me a 35.07hz tune with a port dimension of 23.5X4.75" and 7.07 cubic. the physical port length is 17.25 according to torres. i need to verify what my port actually is and i feel a bit confused by the measuring. if i measure the port down teh center wich is how i understand the correct measurement to me then i get 20 and 3/8" in length, then i measure horizontally to the inside of the MDF sheet wich is 3 and 1/8". so that makes the port 23.5" long down the center. if i measure on the face of the wood itself i get 18.75" long and accounting for 3/4" thickness of the port itself. on top of that it makes it 2.375…