SPL & SQ / Fabrication

how does this look? Used the RE calculator and it is confusing me a little bit. It is saying 4.58ft^3 volume with 105 sq.in. of port but when i do the math I get the volume shown in the box (in the drawing)... Sayd the tuning is 42Hz~ which is exactly what I am looking for but I wanted to make sure everything is good since I am getting conflicting numbers on teh box volume... Box is for a Mach5 SPL15

First off, hi...i just joined... I'm a complete audio noob... I'm looking to build a console/sub box for my 2007 Silverado... Its a reg cab with hardly any space behind the seats...so i want to take out my jump seat and build something... Here are the plans i sketched up... I basically want it to extend all the way to the dash... have a cup holder... and have the sub in the back, out of sight.... I will put a arm pad on top to rest my elbow... I'm not trying to beat this box out the frame or have a super loud setup.... I'm looking for looks/functionality/and bass to complete my setup...... Any criticism is appreciated....any thoughts or ideas let me know..... I don't k…

Hi guys, I will be building the pre cut enclosures I calculated under RE enclosure calculator but there are a few things I would like to verify. I would like to tune the box between 33-35Hz @ 1.8-2.0 cubic ft. However, I just read that the RE calculator is not accurate. So I searched and found this website Enclosure Volume Calculator (EVC) and made the following calculations: Box Width 23 Inches Box Height 15 Inches Box Depth 15 Inches Material Thickness 0.75 Inches Number of Drivers 1 Total Total Port Volume 258.188 Inches3 -----> see calculations below: Port Width 13.5 Inches Port Height 1.5 Inches Port Depth 12.5 Inches Driver Volume …

anyone know off hand the length just the 2 flairs and conector

Hey everyone I've been trying to mock up an enclosure for my truck in Sketch Up for 'bout a month now. I originally wanted to do 8 DC Sound Labs Level 3 12's. I really like DC audio and I have capabilities to get them at low costs. I wanted to do a 4th order but, I've been doing different designs and punching everything in to a 4th order calculator and using WinISD. I'm sorta stuck with ideas. Here's a rapid share of the usuable airspace and how the box would be shaped...a shell in a sense. mucho grasis, thank you, danke shon! http://rapidshare.com/files/184601903/blan...ge_perfect..skp I wanna stay using DC subs but I can change things around. I have a DD Z1 to pow…

Okay, from what ive read over the past few weeks ive decided that i want to go with an active frontstage. My DEH-7800MP is capable of this from what ive read. I plan on glassing the front doors to accept a well acoustically matched woofer and tweeter combo, i was hoping someone here could give me some suggestions on what woofer and tweeter to use so that i have little flatspots in my sound. Also for reference i hate harsh pingy tweeters, i don't particularly like all my highs to sound like crashing symbols! lol.... With switching to an active front stage this also means i will be completely losing my rear audio am i correct? Thats the only thing ive been confused about! T…

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

Ok, so I called Pioneer to check and see what they recommended for a square port and they told me 1.65 ft^3 per sub 7in^2 of port per sub 6" deep. Which seems SUPER tiny, but when my boy (BngBlzr) had 4 TS-W306DVC's in his blazer with the same specs, shit was loud. So I got the box all built, and I am NOT IMPRESSED. So what do you guys think for port, I don't want to rebuild the whole box, preferably just the front where the port is. The link is to my facebook photo album where pics of the box are. I am trying to locate my piece of paper with the dimensions written on it to throw that in here for you guys to play with too. LMK what you guys think cause from hearing his 4 …

First time building ported enclosure, I would have someone build it but I'd cost too much to ship and sounds like a fun project, sorry Argent hmm, scratch that the box volume is going to be 7.66cuft I used the port calculator at 12volt, port width: 30" port height: 2" port length: 13" tuning: 33hz I drew up this pic so that someone could tell me if "B" is part of the port length or what (p.s. picture is not in proportion to dimensions, just general.) So would A+B=13" or is A 13" and B is?

I'm planning on securing my sub box to my trunk using L brackets. I'm also putting in a plywood floor so I can mount amps/batteries/etc to it also. But my question is that, when using the L brackets on the box, do I just bolt straight through the side of the box? And if I ever move the box to another vehicle or change the arrangement, it will have a handful of holes in the side? Just seems odd. Is this the right was to do it though?

I'm currently building my first 6th order bandpass enclosure. I need a way to make the top panel secure to the box, but easily removable for access to the sub once the top is put on. Here is what I have done thus far. I have also added weather stripping all around to prevent leaking. I'm looking for suggestions for the best way to go about this other than glue and screws. Thanks in advance.

is the DD9112,AQ LW12,or Eclipse Titanium SW9122 better for SQ?

sup planning on entering in my first spl comp. in Roanoke Va. Mar.22. Was reading the rules and got somewhat stuck on the part about the fuse requirements. I'm using a 200amp circuit breaker, do i need to install a fuse in its place to enter. Will be running a saz-1500d on 2 12" lvl4 d1, also would be considered AS1 or AS2. Hope to meet some of you there. Styllikeitloud

Has anybody had any experience with Rear-Firing in Single Cab? I plan on doing this or downfiring. The only problem with downfiring is the max bottom depth I can do is 12.5" so the 12" sub will be on the surface of the wood just barely. I'm worried it might not be enough support because that will leave about 1/2" on both sides of the Sub Hole. (Where ever the sub will be, it will at least have 2 baffles.)

I have been reading on t-line boxes for a good 2-3 hours now and am just not understanding the design part 100%. Only one that I have read and felt like I somewhat understood was the "u-shape" style design. I have always done slot ported boxes and was always happy. I think it is time for me to learn a little more about boxes. So far, this is what I have grasped Say I wanted a box tuned to 34hz. I would take 1130 (the speed of sound,) divide that by 34. Which would lead me to 32.25ft (rounded a tad). I would multiply that by .25 because I am looking for the 1/4 wave length. I would need a port 8.0625ft long. And SD equals port area? Also I am aware this is not a full t-l…

Just found out my old Eagle Talon holds the record in Stock 2 class in IASCA. Hmmm, How come I couldn't do that with the car? LOL. After several owners and some modificatins it is now loud!

Hey, I ran into a little problem putting in my door speakers. They're going in a 1999 honda Civic 4dr. It's hard to explain, but i has pics! Anyways, with this honda the speaker doesn't mount directly to the door, but to the door panel....nvm just ckech the pics out: As you can see, the holes where the door panel screws in is blocking how i would otherwise mount the speaker to the door and bring out of the door with MDF rings (need to come out about an 1"). Any suggestions? It seems like I'd have to cut off two of the three mounting place for screws to fit the speaker, but i'm hesitant to do that lol

I saw this on a video and I want to know if its possible for me. Here is some info: I want to go with the musical ported measurements. 2.5^ft., 4" Vd, 13.5" Vl, tuned to 28htz I want the outside length to be 31" (including ports) max, I want it 14" high. What I don't know is the depth. I have a 3000 watt amp and listen to various kinds of music. If someone can help me on the dimensions and maybe even a plot of the spl curve, it would be greatly appreciated and I can get to building. Thank You. Edited to add, If I left anything out, please let me know so I can provide you with the info. Thanks

Ok I have a 99 camry and want to cut wall behind fold down seats to seal off from trunk my question is will this hurt structure of car I only need to cut 3-4 inches on each side and 1-2 inches on topp to get box flush

anyone in here ever deal with Digital Designs or have a few M1 amps layin around?

Not owning a meter I have not gotten to do much testing. My SPL comp runs have been as much for testing purposes as for fun. I have done 3 testing sessions not in comps. and the 1st 2 were in between comp runs for 20-30 mins each and then yesterday I finally got a chance to do some rigoris testing for a few hours. Here's what I learned helps my TC get louder: 1. a. Passenger seat all the way forward as if some one was getting in back seat of my 2 door, a funny thought cuz I made my car a 2 seater with a massive enclosure. b. The back of the seat all the way forward. I have a pic. of this if any1 is having a hard time visualizing, but its a common practice with db-dragg…

I searched the forum for any previous posts and information on this and came up empty handed so I apologize if this has been covered before. I finally talked to my buddy about the fiberglass stuff he was talking about that came ready to go, all you had to do was mold it around whatever it was you were using it on and let it cure. I found out that it actually cures in sunlight, or under UV light and has a wire mesh in it to help it hold it's shape. It's not horribly expensive either. I found 1 sq.ft. pieces for $24 at Jeg's of all places which I didn't think was too unreasonable considering it's got everything a person needs to make it work. I would imagine that by t…

Putting this into a grand caravan, middle seats up, backseat stowed. Going ported, thinking 30-33hz tuning wise, any recommendations? Going to run it off a Sundown 1500d, so box size recommendations? Also, will be running the stock alt for awhile (160 factory). Doing my big 3 upgrade with 1/0 and a single run of 1/0 for now....later upgrades will be wiring and alt before anything else...also no sound deadening for now...also looking for any recommendations for sub/port orientation? sub/port back towards hatch, sub up/ports toward hatch, sub up/port facing side....anyone with experience in a minivan would be nice, not that most of you have one, but a guy can hope lol. than…

Hey guys I have a question I bought 4 3 inch aeros to be tuned to 31 hz they are going to be 12.3 inches each will this sound good I'm using a saz 3000d witha cascade designs omega 18 itshould pound right thank to all who help