SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Calculations, Concepts, Designs, Theories. All General SPL Or SQ Questions Can Be Discussed Here.
2,714 topics in this forum
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Can anyone give me a fairly straight forward design for a bandpass box for two 5 1/4" woofers? I like the one i have, but it is uber ghetto (Current Box) I would like to have it peak around 28-30hz for chopped and screwed music, but maintain some punchiness on higher notes. Box size isnt really an issue, the one i have currently is around 9in tall, 4ft long, and 3ft wide. I like the style of mine, the way it is laid out, chamber, port etc so anything similar would be perfect (i might use a plexi top; If i do go with the plexi, i'm spraying the insides flat black). I will build it myself, out of 3/4" mdf and some bracing. Only requirements are is that it must be at most 12…
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I have 2 sa15s and i'm designing a new box. It's a daily driver but i want it to be a very loud daily driver. i currently have a hifonics hfi1500 (pending upgrade) big 3 done, XS Power D925 on the way along with second skin coming. I'm probably going to go around 7.5-8 cubes after displacement and wondering which one will get louder to. If i go aeroport how big and long should i go. Any input is appreciated! Thanks
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So I come today bearing questions... I have two ideas for a system and really am at a standstill and could use some advice. Both ideas will be forward firing with the truck sealed off from the front. My first idea is two 12's in a sealed box. Due to the fact that the max height in the trunk is 12.5in, I would have to tilt the sub back to make it fit, and for the sake of visuals, tilting them inward at the same time. I would prefer this setup, but due to limited resources, I'm not sure if I could cut any mdf with the angled edges required to achieve this. So this leads to my second idea... If I ran two 10in subs, I could run them straight up and down, and I could port them…
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In anyone's experience, does it matter if the elbow of an L-Port is angled or kept at 90*? As far as sound quality or output is concerned.. It would be easier to build boxes with a 90* angle like that found on the RE box calculator. I've always used an angled elbow, as shown below.. It just seems to make sense, but just wondering!
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I am getting 2 Fi SSD 15's and I am wanting to get some pretty deep bass out of them. So what kind of box should I get to get the most out of them? If ported, slot or round? tuned to how many hz? Thanks in advance ~MadroX
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i'm getting ready to wall of my car @ the b-pillar, w/ a series tuned 6th order bandpass for my 2 15's i'm hoping to be in the 150's w/ this setup. here is the plan for my wall, and a pic of the old setup.....(except i'm running soundstream dbx 15's, not the RL-p's) what do you think???
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I was wondering if anyone new of any good enclosure design programs, the only one i know of is term pro. I was just wondering if there were any out there that were better. I am trying to do some experement ing with some bandpass enclosures.
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This is a goal to reach 150db tuned for a daily driver. I've been doin some measurements and have came up with a box design that has me smiling and this will be the last box i will build for the car... unless i downgrade later. This is my last attempt to try and reach 150db with a daily tuned setup and i'm crossin my fingers because this is only with 2 15s and 4,400w of power. Here is the wild design- Remove back seats, where back seat was, install a wall there sealed off from the hatch area. Now, i have 33" of depth from this wall to the back of the front seats. The box design would consist of 2 15s ported facing toward the wall. There is an 8" gap from the front baffle …
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Why do you compete? Since I opened, I will let you all know why I compete. I compete to have fun and to represent. One of the main reasons why I compete is because of the gear I run. Back when i started, it was about fun and there were plenty of Orion competitors, now there is a few of us, and I doubt that none are as serious as I with the Orion equipment. That would be the main reason, to bring back the Orion name to the competition arena, make them the proud people they used to be. Many of you might not remember Orion back in the days when Wayne Harris used to work for them, or when you could see atleast 40 cars at finals with their equipment. Not only am I bringi…
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So I drive a f150 ext cab with a kicker cvx 15" with a 6 cube box tuned at 32hz. Right now it is powered by this POS sony 1200 2 channel. The first time I metered I did a 139.5 door open. I metered yesterday and the best I could do is a 137.2 The testing was done on a term lab. Now the things that changed: 4 ft shorter power wire than before - better bigger ground - better new rcas - better new bigger remote - I know this wont change anything just thought I'll throw it out there The only difference than before would be the temperature. It is roughly 35-45 degrees hotter outside now. Can the ambient temperature effect db?? Also my buddy metered too and he had a decrea…
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would a port facing the side work in a 2001 eclipse hatchback.......its about a foot away from the panel if I were to face the port to the back ....the port will only be about an inch away from the back panel.... and I don't think it will have any air flow. if I face the port to the side .....will it practically be the same as facing it to the back?
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I know this question has been posted before all over, but many of the discussions just turn into b***hfests, and no straight good answer is given. Would stuffing (polyfill etc...), or lining (vibration damper, mlv, etc...) a properly sized and well built box make any difference on the sound quality/characteristics of the subwoofer it contains? I'm looking for one good answer please, not a million random opinions. My head is just in a daze after looking at how many odd forum posts that don't answer the question I'm posing. Thanks to anyone who has good knowledge on this topic!
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Ok I have a 99 camry and want to cut wall behind fold down seats to seal off from trunk my question is will this hurt structure of car I only need to cut 3-4 inches on each side and 1-2 inches on topp to get box flush
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I have a soundstream tarantula tr880/2 amp(880rms) and now a soundstream splx 12" 750rms. I have 4 ga amp wires and 10 ga speaker wire, all on a alpine headunit. trunk is dynamated. I just got this sub off ebay after selling my jbl 15wgti. I didnt have much space and I figured I could get a 12" to pound as hard as a 15" I've saw guys at comps do it. But with this soundstream sub I'm not impressed. It came with a cheap particle board 2.3 ft. air space ported box, I plan on getting a nice box. the 15" hit a lot harder then the 12 in just as crappy a box. If anyone out there can give me some pointers on how to get this 12 to sound like a 15 please let me know. let me know if…
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I'm looking into building an enclosure that measures 34W (left to right) x 18.5D (back to front) x 14.5 in height. The speaker is going to sit on top, port firing back. This is an L port design. The port will be 3 inches wide. My question is, if I want to tune at 33Hz how long would the other part of the port have to be (the one that runs across the back of the box)? I used RE's calculator for my last box a few years ago and it couldn't catch the lows for nothing, so I know something is not accurate about that calculator. If someone could help me with this, I'd appreciate it.
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Hey guys I have a question I bought 4 3 inch aeros to be tuned to 31 hz they are going to be 12.3 inches each will this sound good I'm using a saz 3000d witha cascade designs omega 18 itshould pound right thank to all who help
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I've heard of people blocking off the rear cabin vents ( behind the vent caps) to gain loudness in the cabin anyone here dine it or does anyone know if it works because with my system turned up if you walk to the back you can here a farting noise coming out and also you can feel the air coming out
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I have a Fibl 15" firing upwards with a port on the side of my box. I was wondering what would make it louder in the cabin of my car? Port facing me or the rear? Don't know if this will help any but I have a 2010 malibu
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Hey guys, my friend has a Ford Ranger and he asked me if having the port facing the door or roof would be louder. And I decided to ask on here for him. Reason because he is getting a box designed, what would the pros/cons of having it facing either way be? Thanks in advance.
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Hey guys i came up with a design i just want to know if i did this right let me know its 4.4 cubes not counting port area and its 40 hz can somebody double check this and confirm what i did was right thanks
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Gettin ready to start on a new build. Will consist of: 15" Sundown Nightshade D2 Alphasonik 1000HCA (Possibly saz1500) All 1/0 Exide Orbital Deep Cycle Damplifier Pro will be installed on all doors and on hatch and on the floor from the back seats back. I have more for rest of truck but probably wont have time to get it all on at first. I want to be able to put up some good numbers on the TL so what kind of design you got for me? Should I do a slot port or aero? About what size box and tuned to what? Thanks 3 cu ft tuned to 36hz with 3 4" flares?
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I was wondering if anyone would be able to make a sketchup for this box. and please correct me if my tuning is off. box is 4.33384 after sub displacement. W. 30 H. 20.5 D. 16 wood thickness .75 and the port being 32.5in long tuned to 32 hz with a kerfed radius of 3.
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PPL, I'm in the process of building an all out SPL car. (SM 3-4) Right now, I have 2 AutoTek MM4000.1's, which will be connected to 2 ATOMIC APX18D2's. (wired@ 1 ohm per sub) Being a Kinetik dealer here in Japan, I can get the 2400 Monsters at a good price.. I used the calculator on the site and it said I needed 3 of these monsters! My goal is to get full power out of the amps(burps only!) How many batteries would you suggest? and before anyone suggest other batteries, I've already looked at: Odyssey 2150 NSB90 via Northstar and Optima g31 Yellow tops all comments are but experence is wanted holla when ya can TIA Gavin (MERRY CHRISTMAS AND a early Happy NEW YEAR …
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