SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Calculations, Concepts, Designs, Theories. All General SPL Or SQ Questions Can Be Discussed Here.
2,714 topics in this forum
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Alright guys, I've had these Bravox 3 ways for a while now. My wife didn't want to tear into the van until the Atlas's had died and they're on the way out. The front passenger mid has been giving the "Death Rattle" from time to time and it's getting worse, so my wife is breaking down and wanting me to begin getting the design, supplies and such together to be ready to make a quick change and build for the new set. That being said, I have some idea's about how I am going to do it, but I wanted to run it by the great minds here and see if there's a better way to go about it. First of all, here's a picture of the inside of the van to give you an idea of what I have to wor…
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4 Sundown Sa 15 W 36 In H 20 In D 40 In Port Width 20 In Port Height 9 In Tuned 32hz Sub Up Port Back Max Dimensions Are H 33 D 54 W 38 It's Going Into A Scion Xb 2008. This Is My First Shot At Designing a Box So Any Helpful Input Will Be Appreciated.
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i was looking up designs for front facing subwoofers/front facing ports.there was 2 designs that got me thinking......i see more people use the L-bend port on a suwoofer box .....like this and less people use a design like this im not a big box builder.....so can somebody tell me why most people use the L-bend instead of the dual chamber middle port design........is it because u get both subs working together in same chamber? and how would it change the air flow from side port to middle?
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I made up a few pages for port tuning, that account for port displacement, as I haven't seen anything online that offered it. Slot Port: http://portsgalore.stefanhinote.com/?do=portlength Aero Ports: http://portsgalore.stefanhinote.com/?do=portaerolength It uses the port length equation from the loudspeaker cookbook. Input: volume, port dimensions, tuning. It figures out the port length, and port volume (port length * port area). Subtracts port volume from original volume = net volume. With the found port length and net volume, it figures out the real tuning. From there it has something to start with, and starts adjusting the original tuning frequency until the net tuning…
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I want to start this off early....give me some ideas on how to make it better.....Chad^2 don't even mention payment....the next time I see you I will pay you personally......start from the bottom guys....food?....music?.....type of judging??? I want to hear it all....
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I'm wanting to build a new enclosure for 2 12" Eclipse TI's sw-9122(tc 3HP) I currently have the in a CRX style enclosure 4ft3@35. Its in a CRX. This works well. I just want to try a different sttle enclosure. I really like the chambered t-lines Rich(stratus) from here and ROE designs. I'd like help designing a box like the one in the pciture below, its from a member on here. he did 2 separate boxes, but there CRX style sub up/port back.. so if anybody would like to give me a hand I apprecite it.. thanks, Joe
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Hi, so I'm in the process of fixing up my 300zx twin turbo and am figuring out designs for sub boxes and want some advice on configurations etc. I have two re se10s I was thinking of using or Incriminator i10s on around 150rms a peice (keeping power low to avoid having to upgrade electrical and going more for sound quality over getting loud.) My issue is I want to do a box in either side of my hatch but there are some lines on the one side which makes it have a much smaller available space. My question is should I make both boxes fill up the space and have different size boxes or make them both match? I will probably stay sealed to avoid having to figure out airspace an…
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Would someone be so kind to briefly walk me thru the process of how to properly secure a fiberglassed roof? Basically.. i'll take the headliner down.. build a wall in my car, then from the B pillar on forward, that will be fiberglassed, ok? this is where i get lost.... How do i attach the fiberglass mold to the vehicle so i could remove it again if i needed to?
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i got a bigger amp for my 10's and now my back wall of my truck flex's way to much ...it has a knocking sound i can make it stop buy pushing as hard as i can on the consol ...what would be the best way to stiffen the wall...the box is bolted to it but only at the bottom ..i could put some more bolts into the top but im not sure it would end it ...another idea i have is to weld some tubing to the back of the wall inbetween the cab and bed ..well here is the only pic i have to show where the consol meats the wall
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im really thinking about running some dc sounds gear 6 12's or 4 15's in a wall. what do you guys think of box/port sizes for a bass race set up? also does anyone have any spl numbers with there subs?
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Sooo, it is time for some ass time in my car seat tuning the system. I need music! Every genre (besides rap please). If you have links to some FLAC torrents of said media, please link me!
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Okay this first pic is the side view. This is in my trunk and it will be set into my wheel well but will also go about 4-5 inchs above that level. My first question is; would firing my woofer into the back of my seats pose any significant problem or reduction in output? Also, can I place my port outside of the box extending into the cabin or would this potentially pose a problem?
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Hey guys. i just purchased a 15" Fi.BL sub and before it gets to my house i was hoping to get a box design built. I am fully cabable of building anything i just need some help and advice designing it or possibly have someone design it for me. So heres what i got.. Vehicle : 2004 Chevy S10 ZR2 ext cab Location in the vehicle: in the cab behind the two seats (sub up, port up) Space available (Length x Width x Height): 45 x 18 x 28 Subwoofer make and model: Fi.BL D2 Subwoofer Size: 15" Number of Subwoofers:1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot What type of music do you like?: mostly rap. i listen to a lot of decaf. Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: my goal is …
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i just went on car stereo.com and i have a 2 cu.ft. box and to tune it to 34hz with the sub being an icon 12 the round port would be 4" diameter and 11.72" long is this right
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Well, i saw something that made me think of this, so i made it, it is a box design, with 2 ports, that go out of the... front (same side as woorfer) and then come to a port directly above the woofer... its weird. lol any comments? lol
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Hey everyone. I am not sure what the policies are with box designs are here so i thought i would ask. If I asked for a design on the forum and someone does give me one do i pay them or what?? this is just a picture of the box. Like the dimensions of the pieces of wood. I could make the box but i have no clue on how to design a port or tune a box. If this was not clear or difficult to understand than let me know or just delete it , hha Thanks, Matt Cusack
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i am building a sub box for a m3. it will be in the spare tire well. the box size that i am shooting for is about 0.5cu ft after sub and port. the cubes i am using i got for sundown audio. i am just looking for a nice sq sound. i am not sure where to tune it but my best guess would be 35hz. i am looking to go ported and need the port size and how long the port should be. i'm only running about 300watts.
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I'm looking at building a new box for my SSD. 9 cubic feet is a bit much in my jeep Pretty straightforward question. Only thing i really know of to design a box is the RE calculator. Whats the best though ?
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I've been to one spl comp and it was not even a real event, just a thing where people could get on the mic's (and audiocontrol mics at that ). I live in seattle and can not find a SINGLE spl comp anywhere near here. It seems like they are all out east. Around here we have Adire and Audiocontrol as well as Sounddomain.com / cardomain.com and other names that are getting somwhat big so my question is, why no comps around here???? -aaron
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anyone know off hand the length just the 2 flairs and conector
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I was wondering if anyone could help on a the best way to approach walling my truck off I have 2 18" zcons facing forward and the port forward and I want to wall it off I was thinking getting cardboard and getting the outline of the rest of the space that I need sealed off and putting it on some mdf and cutting it out but I can't think of how I would attach that piece to my box without wood gluing it so if anyone could help ibwould appreciate it
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144.3 in the middle of hte dash on the AC and i forgot to turn my bass knob all the way up, it was set to 3/4 it was on track 19...whic his 38Hz...wow. [email protected] also, the both doors and windows where closed, which isnt MECA style. my nuts where vibrating agianst the seat and my nose tickled really bad. so windows open and mic on the floor and bass knob al lthe way...145 on the AC shoundnt be a problem. and it was a new mic, or so says the owner, so it was still a little stiff, the highest hit on it so far was 149.5 and he geussed mine to be 140dB and hte pansy guy that sat i nthe passenger seat started plugging his ears at 141dB...i tried to talk to him and a…
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I never tried this until about 3 months ago when a friend who had W-6's in his truck awhile back said that JL's tend to hit harder in a Ported Enclosure w/ Polyfill stuffed throughout the enclosure. Does anyone know if this is true or not? I have had my 15's in single Ported Enclosures w/Polyfill for about 2 to 3 months and I'm not positive but I think it might be hittin harder but also I have a PPI amp now running these subs when before I had Phoenix Gold XS2500! That could be why also! What do you Fellas think? I have just picked up another PPI PC2150 tonight about an hour or so ago on my way home from work too! So this is my setup now! 2 15's W-6's ran parallel to one …
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so i took my box out of my car to add some fiberglass resin to it, and some supports, but i was wondering what side should a port be on for the best spl. passenger side or drivers side. the sub and port will be facing the trunk. Thanks,
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So I have my normal starting bat up front and I'm going to put an additional battery in the rear of the car near the amps. My question is should i run a fuse near the main bat to the 2nd bat as well as in between the second bat and the amp. All in all I don't think an additional fuse would hurt anything and if they power wire ever chaffed through I think I'd be really glad I had a fuse there. any help
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