SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Alright.. So I thought the first time Id be going to be metered was gonna be in July at my first dbdrag competition.. BUT, my local car audio shop is having a grand re-opening with spl meter readings.. Prizes are being given but its more for fun, I really need to get going and run this 0 gauge and install my 2nd battery, iv only got 4 days! Anyways, just wondering if there are 'general' rules to get the best number out of your car. Im running a trunk car, already know my cars peak which helps. Iv heard things like keeping your seats all the way forward helps.. ect. Im sure its different for every car, but I want to show my best at my first time on the meter.

I KNOW THIS DOESNT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS FORUM BUT PLEASE HERE ME OUT AND ANSWER THIS!!! I'm holding off on the 4 BTL's just for now until I get my money right but for now I want to know if this is a good setup? I plan on buying 5 of these (To Save Space) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3835_Kicker+05C84.html This amp for subs http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9551_H...+TXi+1008D.html The box is going to be custom made (To fit the trunk) (Ported) maybe tuned to 27 Hz.,is 27 Hz. loud or should I tune lower? And its going in a 2004 Chevy Aveo. Im going to parallel wire the 4 ohm subs to 2 ohms. For a educated guess do you think I'll be hitting @ leats 140db? I…

if u have a regular internal port that needs to be say for example 20" long to get a 30hz fq.....would it still need the same 20" length if it was external to get the same 30Hz tuning? I know internal volume would be more considering less displacement

i have 2 18" treo ssx's my box now is 9.99cf gross with a 100sqin port port is 4x25x21.5 deep after all dissplacements im at 7.68cuft treo reconmends 8cubes after dissplacment im doing a 150.7db at 34hz burp with 1 rd audio d9 amp but can you help me with my new box i plan on keeping it 8 cubes net but what can i do with the port to get more spl but still play low notes and keep it a dailey driver here is a link to treo ssx page click on the view specifications at the bottom of this page for the specs treo web site im running the amp at .5 ohms and this is a hatchback car im doing subs up port back please help me out thanks

i have my cart full and about ready to order in the next few days so what I need to know since ssa store does not carry fuses what website do all of you order your fiuses from

Alright well I finally have a new box design for my level 5 15". I just need some help with those of you who have built boxes in very tight situations. I have about an inch on the left and right side to spare and a few inches on top. I cannot build it outside and then toss the box in because my trunk space is too small. Rotating it will be difficult as well.. I have read on here people doing very big boxes in small areas inside their car. Pictures will be posted soon in my build log as well!

I remember reading somewhere about the relationship between a box's port area and potential output. The reason i ask is i have been looking at the IXL drivers from Mach 5 and in order to tune low in such small boxes the port needs to be quite large in order to avoid port noise. I was looking at a 2cf box with a fairly large port (roughly 50 inches) my question is will such a large port casue a loss in output? i was looking at tuning at 30Hz for a daily setup that would hammer out the lows. Is there a general rule of thumb regarding port size compaired with box volume? Could someone point me in the right direction (i haved tried to search) I was hoping some of the experie…

im lookin to start a new build and try doing a wall. i know i shouldnt be doing this myself but the only way to learn it to ask a ton of questions and do it yourself. im not sure on the best/proper way to safely secure a wall. the walls gonna be for 2 psi platform 3s which arent too light. i just dont want the wall crushing me if i ever get into an accident. thanks.

Ok, so i have the planned dimensions and i need help calculating the port and seeing if this box is ok? Two Alpine type r 12's will go into it facing towards the roof of the vehicle. Length (Depth) = 26" Width = 37" Height = 13" So what should the port calculate to? According to the re box calc. they say the port length is 34.75". Is this correct? I'm usin .75" MDF of course.

Hey, im about to build a box for my buddy and i wanna get around 4 cuft. per sub after all displacements. Again they're two cvr 15's. I was thinkin somewhere around 14 inches of port area per sub per cubic foot of volume and im planning on tuning the box around 35-38 hz. so (14 x 4) + (14 x 4) = 112 inches of port area I've build a ported box for an Fi Q15 and i had it tuned to 33hz but it sounded like it was tuned very low once it was inside of the truck. And i have read that when the box is intstalled in a vehicle the tuning frequency of the box drops about 5-7hz because of the resonant frequency of the vehcile? So im trying to account for this with this box i'm b…

So i broke the latch on both of my back windows and plan on sealing them up. not the rear the third row windows. i bought some 3m window weld. Hoping that will hold it. since its 28$ a tube. Link any suggestions?

Whats the best way to cut a 14in diameter hole in plexiglass? Also, cut a 5in diameter hole in fiberglass? Thanks.

Internal dimensions: 15" d 34" w 10" h Port: 10" h 3" w 30" l Sub displacement .1 cuft Subs up, port sideways 2.1cuft after sub and port displacement Leaving .1 for 45s, so 2 cubes net Tuning guesstimate: 33-34 Hz Side note: I would like to figure out how to calculate neccesary port area by the parameters of the sub, not by the 12-16 square inches per cuft rule, might use areos if someone has a suggestion.

Does any one know how i would calculate port height width length 1 n 2

If I have a box that is 36" wide by 22" deep by 24" tall how big would I want my port for tuning it to 32hz? Its for an 18" n2

So i know you can tune a box to a certain hz and specific dimensions for a squared ported/sealed box But, Is it at all possible to calculate and tune a fiberglass piece that you make to mount your subs on the side of the car or anything? ive read many tutorials on how to fiberglass but nothing really mentions anything about proper dimensions and what not for a sub. so am i sacrificing quality and proper sound for looks by fiberglassing?

right now the wife drives a 01 accord coupe with a single RE REX12D4 off around 200 watts from a RF 300.1 in a 1.5ft^3 box tuned to 35Hz front firing right behind the back seat. would it hit the lows alot better or have more output if I were to replace it with a SRX15D4 in an infinite baffle setup off the same amp? I know Id probably end up lowering the gain seeing as that SRX might not even handle 200 watts in an IB setup. and another idea, what about just using the REX12 in an IB setup since its already in my possession?

Ok, here is are 3 chioces of a mock-up for the install. I was able to raise my air tanks up high, and now I can fit a box underneath. Here are the 3 possible ways to mount the amps. None of these ways will they actually be attached to the box. I will weld some aluminum and stand them off a 0.25" or so. Mounting the amps on top, I like the most, but one amp is slightly shorter than the other... Mounting the amps on either side, and the RL-p in the middle..though, I dont like the M's facing opposite of each other.. Mounting the amps on one side, and the RL-p on the other... Taking a vote..without a poll I guess.. Got in all my wiring today, so just waiting on the soun…

in the quest for possibly the best SQ to our ears, proper install would always be needed, proper positioning and aiming etc... but on the midbass install part on doors, sometimes we feel something still is lacking... even though we have done all the possible deadening etc needed. and ending up in trying to fit an 8" on the doors. modifying the door moldings and cutting through the metal sheet... Question is... is it worth it? destroying some parts the your car used as daily driven just for the midbass sound were looking for?

If i where planning on useing external ports for my SPL set up (probably a pair of 6") to decrease cancelation and turbulance would it still be a good idea toconjure up some type of brace for the port? i would assume so but im not 100% sure. Keep in mind i want to easily be able to change the length of the port not only for trial and error testing to get the highest score but also so i can give it a daily tuning for the ride too and from the competitions and so i dont have to lug the Ava out of and into my truck every other weekend.

Wassup fellas I am wondering if I tune my port to 33 hz could I change the tuning of it without switching out the port? Like adding something? I would like to keep it at 33 hz when doing rap demos and daily bumping but then when I use it for work I listen to rock cause of my boss cause he hates rap so tune around 38 hz or maybe a tad higher. I have an hdc3 18 and 8 cubes or so to build.

Gains will be set low (to start off, i realize hifonics isn't top of the line, but it'll do the job well even if it is overrated).. so any suggestions on a good wiring kit to buy?

I'm going to be putting together a new box this weekend for a 10'' BL in my reg cab ranger. First off, the box will be 1.6@36-37 with (2) 3'' aeroports (Fi recommends 1.25). Will I run into any problems with having the box larger than optimal size? How should I put my ports? Here's the space I'm working with: Option 1: Option 2: Option 3:

I know that ports are most efficent when they are facing on the same plane as the driver, and that you loose any gains form the port if it fires 180 degrees from the driver. but, how much SPL will be lost by aiming the por just under 90 degrees from the driver? In a (hopefully) up comming enclosure construction for an XXX18 in a Mazda B3000 ext cab putting the port on the same plane as the driver will be very hard, so i am thinking of having hte port firing up and the woofer on a slanf facing forward.... how will this compare tothe woofer and the port being on the same plane? im not concerned with not being loud, i am concerned with not beating a friends 4 JL w1v2's with…

i just had my wood cut from lowes (they did a bad job cutting) and i was wonder what size screws should i use to put the together? i dont have a router so what else could i use to cut the hole out for my sub? i have some titebond wood glue and some heavy duty liquid nails here.