SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Okay so, I got my designs, and lowes completly messed up all the cuts, so I have to take it back and complain and hope that they give me new wood or something..... So in the meantime, I just "sketched" up this box. Here is a pic here is the google sketchup file http://files.filefront.com/fibtl18skp/;13080625;/fileinfo.html for anyone who wants it Let me know what you all think! (I didn't make up the specs for this, a help from another member on this site did, I just drew it)

Ive got a sundown 3000 amp and a 300amp circuit breaker. ive been to a few comps and my circuit breaker has blown in some of my runs. Is it ok to run the system without the circuit breaker just for comps?

If i use a flared areo port in a 2.5^3ft box would one four inch be alright that would be 12.5 square inches port area. Box will be for 4 8" subs

What would be the best way to wire into the box. Best as in the most secure, and most current flow. A friend of mine just drilled holes and fed the wire through, then just siliconed around to seal it up. I have also heard of people driving bolts through and wiring to them. If this will work, what type/metal bolt would be best. My last setup used actual terminals that I got from Sound Advice. I siliconed the back of them in, but not sure if they were secure enough. All advice is appreciated.

I am starting my wall build soon; I think I have a general idea on how to go about it. I

i have a 93 nissan sentra and i purchased a bl18 how should i build the box to fit into the trunck withough compromising sound quality

I have a desired tuning frequency that I want but I will have two ports...I think. The best example I could find is in the Stealth Avalanche build, basically the same idea he did but in a different vehicle and different subs, bit more air space. Here is what it looks like. As you can see, there is a port with a partition in between. So my question is, how do I figure out what to tune too. Do I tune each port to what I want the tuning to be...do I need to do some calculating and figure it out through equations....I could use some help on this subject. Also how does this type of enclosure work since the port is firing directly in front of the subs? I would assume there …

I just received a phone call from Matt Borgardt at ID. Due to the fact that he is seriously ill, we will be unable to have the IASCA event on Jan 24th. The event will be rescheduled for some time in April. The next IASCA show will be February 15th at Beach Autosound in Huntington Beach, Ca. I apologize for any inconvenience this may cause any of you. Please try to spread the word so we don't have people driving in from out of town to show up at an empty parking lot. -Todd Woodworth

can someone tell me what a t-line enclosure is and whats the advantage

I came across a thread on here where a guy cut slices into one side of a sheet of MDF and then he bent it into a tube! I can no longer find it and i wanted to get a better look at it because i was thinking of using this technique! Does anyone remember where this is? or does anyone remember seeing this? Please post a link to this thread! It would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!! <<<<HAHAHA

I decided to temporarily put in one of my SE12's in at 2ohms on my T3002 in mono mode. Giving it approx. 800 watts. The box is 2 cubes after all displacement. For the port I doulble up a pc of 3/4" MDF and glued a pc of 4" pvc pipe through 1 layer and router a 1/2" radius on the top layer to make a homemade aeroport. The length overall of this port is 13". I don't believe I am right in thinking the tuning is at 32. Can someone double check me on this. Also am thinking about shortening the lenght of the port to get about a 35 hz tuning. This is just a temporary daily box for me to have something till it warms up. But I listen to all kinds of music so I needed some beat in …

im looking a good online site to buy some epoxy resin along with some 4 or 5 inch wide 18oz.(or so) cloth tape...anyone know of any good sites?

I would like to know what is the most accurate way to calculate QTC of a sealed enclosure. For example in WinISD i have the specs for my speaker in there and in a 1.2ft^3 it gives me a QTC of .704 In BBP6 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure it gives me a QTC of .56 And Calculating it from the formulas on these two sites. http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/sealed1.htm http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=29 They give me a QTC of .62 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure. So I would like to know which way is right?

Would it be better to but 45's here or would it be bad? The pics will explain it better. Option A. Option B. There are two, one on each side of the port. The box is 48" wide and the port is at the bottom in the middle, and is 30" wide. There is a 45 on the back opposite of these.

Crazy, stupid, or cool? Thinking about doing wall with 2 18's. Not for spl, just daily pounding.

I am getting ready to make a box and need to know two things. I am building a box for a nightshade 12 and I got an aeroport. The box is going to be sub up port on the side 1) Can the port be inside like old times? The only reason I am asking is all I see nowadays with aeroports is crx style with ports out of box. Will I lose db's by putting port in instead of out? 2) If so how many cubes roughly would it take up? Port will be 15.5 inches long and its a 4 inch aeroport. I am trying to see what I need to make dimensions of box if port is in instead of out. I just want the best possible setup I can get for what equipment I have.

currently running a huge box with a fi q18 takes up the entire back seat of my truck. i love the output for the power i have and the low tuning, but it needs to come out for a carseat. i have a pair of tangband w8-740p's, single 4ohm 150wrms 8's. im thinking about building a box 1.75cu tuned to 39hz with 26.25sq of port , trying to get the most output possible. not sure how to design the box was thinking about trying a loaded horn thing like thumpper did with the icons. anyone with exsperience with these speakers or small truck boxes any imput of how i can get the most out of these 8's would be great. vehicle is 99 dakota x-cab.

Hi I am starting my build very shortly and I have a question on making the sub box. I have made L slot port boxes before but for my 2 12" Fi SSDs I want to make the port in the middle. So the question I have is can I make it by just calculating for 1 of the subs and just build it together? Space is not an issue. Thanks ahead for all the input

Hey everyone I've been trying to mock up an enclosure for my truck in Sketch Up for 'bout a month now. I originally wanted to do 8 DC Sound Labs Level 3 12's. I really like DC audio and I have capabilities to get them at low costs. I wanted to do a 4th order but, I've been doing different designs and punching everything in to a 4th order calculator and using WinISD. I'm sorta stuck with ideas. Here's a rapid share of the usuable airspace and how the box would be shaped...a shell in a sense. mucho grasis, thank you, danke shon! http://rapidshare.com/files/184601903/blan...ge_perfect..skp I wanna stay using DC subs but I can change things around. I have a DD Z1 to pow…

can the single of a L-ported box be divided into two? instead of one port on one side and the sub on the otherside, it will look like ports on both end of the box with the sub in the center? if its possible, is there a calculator online for that? thanks...

I have 2 ReAudio SE 12's. I need a box design ASAP. It's going to sit in the back seats of my 2005 Chevy 4 door 2500HD. So the box can just be square, port center or one side. I want it to hit low ( listen to rap and rock ) but at the same time be ok in comps if I want to go ( for fun but still like to do good. ). The reason I just want it a simple design is so I can remove the box when needed not much room behind the seats so that was not an option. I plan to make this out of 3/4 MDF as well so may need to brace it. I will need a design with all measurements of course. I am just going to have lowes cut the peaces for me. A 3D design would be great so I can see how it all…

I've got two of these but temporarily I want to see what one can do, I'll be running it off of 900wrms. Anyone want to design me a nice efficient box, tuned anywhere from 27-32 hz? Sub will have to be facing forward, aero ports preferred, 6" PVC pipe is what I'd like to use. Max dimensions (to keep it under window line) would be 54" length x 22" height x 15" depth.

Hey everyone. I've got a 99 dodge 1500 regular cab. I built a box to go behind the seats that was about 2.4 cubes and had a 3" aero port, loaded with a Fi Bl 12. I resently bought a DP 12 and it is quite a bit louder than my Fi, but I know it can get louder. I'm building a complete fiberglass box to replace this one, and it will have the same basic layout, but I'm putting in a bigger port. I've got a 4" and a 6" aero port. So my question is, which would be a better combo: DP with 4" aero port, or DP with 6" aero port? I can possibly fit either one, but I want to know which one would be better for me. My music style is rap just because of the bass, and I LOVE the lows, and…

I've looked around for different test tones, i still dont know how to make my own, but i found a site that offers free test tones 10 seconds long. there is a place at the bottom to download a zipped version of all the songs. Stereo, 16 bit, 44,100 KHz 0 db http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/

So I was looking at pics of banginAltima's Altima and noticed the external aero ports were facing into the car thru the folded down rear seats. I'm building a box for 2 Fully Loaded 15" BL's and was wondering if I can do something similar. However, theres a catch to my set up. I have a 88' Grand Marquis that has a solid, non-folding rear seat. So I was wondering if I could make custom external aero ports thru my rear deck between the 2 6X9's. Would that have the same effect as it did in Altima's car? He gained about 4Db when he re-designed the box and port set-up. Or am I just being unrealistic?