SPL & SQ / Fabrication

W'sup guys, i'd like a little assistance on my box build. I'm doing revisions 2 my blowthrough in my 99' s-10 and need help on port size. My box will consist of 2 12" orion hcca's and will be 14.5" tall, 43" wide, and i'm not sure as 2 how much depth i'll need. I'm still in the process of learning how 2 calculate port size so assistance with this will be greatly appreciated. I currently have a blowthrough with a bandpass box formulated from Pete at hexibase. I've been trying 2 get him 2 help me construct a ported box but he's busy as hell and i've been trying 2 contact him for like 2 months with no reply. Can u guys possibly assist me? Thx alot.

What I planned on doing is glueing a layer of plexiglass over the top of painted mdf. I want it to dry clear so there will be no glue marks. Is there anything out there that can do this? I have looked and all I could find was plexi to plexi glue. Any finds would be greatly appreciated.

hey i am tryin to get a mirror like finish with paint how can i do that ? what kinda paint do i need ? any suggestions im starting with mdf

Ok in the cargo area I got 38Wx20Dx22H. Was gonna only have it 20" high but bumped it up a lilttle to get as much box space as available. According to a box calculator on the12volt.com puts me at 8.01cf, figure about 7.5 after sub displacement (i think thats about right). I tried figuring out for ports and when I put in a 4" aeroport tuned to 32Hz put it at only 1.5" in length.....this does not seem right to me. I tried figuring out for a slot port at 4"x18.5" tuned at 32Hz put the length at 18.9". A 2"x18.5" slot only comes out to 8" of length. Does all this seem right? Tried to mock something up in google sketch but I failed pretty hard at that. If I can't figure thi…

Hey guys, I have 2 Older model Audiobahn Immortals (not the flamed out crap, and I got a good deal so dont rip on me please). I hit 140.8 legal on the TL with one in the trunk in a small box firing up in my civic, and want to put both in my backseat and make a temporary wall for a comp coming in a couple weeks, doesn't have to be perfect, but any pointers? People around here don't know there chit so I want to show people what a loud car is compared to some of the retards around here. Ill try and get some pics up but wondered if anyone could help at all. Thanks guys. Andrew

...that is all. -Nick

I'm designing a new box and have a sort of kink in my design. I'm looking to do a baffle with a 30 degree angle in it. Now the issue with this that I do not know the clearance for the sub since it will be angled downwards. It is a 15" Havoc (standard basket), and I just wanted to know if anyone had any ideas about the clearance. I basically need to know how far above the bottom of the baffle the sub needs to be to clear the bottom piece. Thanks!

I have modeled up a box for a 12" Fi.SSD Now I'd just some of you box builders to just verify what I've done. And let me know if its good or not Here is a pic since they're worth 1000 words: Port and Sub displacement has been accounted for. Where would be the best location on the port side to place the sub? I dont quite understand port loading and such. Thanks in advance

I want to create my own blueprints for my own boxes. Is there any tutorial of some sort to organize and create my own blueprints? What about a tutorial for BassBox Pro? Thank you.

Im trying to make an enclosure for a single sa 12 but the only wood they sell out here is 18 mm thick mdf, I'm wondering how to compensate this into my cut sizes for the box I wanna build I wanna do 15 h x 17d x 22w with the port being 2" wide and tuned to 32 hertz any suggestions?

In my progression to finish my build, some of my amps may require amp inserts for dual cables per input. Now, i have the tools here to make it, that's easy. The thing i do NOT like about these inserts is how they are secured in the amp.. just by the little set screw on the amp.. For holding a solid piece, i fear the insert can "turn" eventually and i don't like that. Instead, i thought about purchasing a Metric tap and die set to tap the power and ground inserts on the amps. There appears to be enough metal in there to do so easily. I do not know 100% what size tap i need but i got some micrometers here to find out but the question is this- If i tap the amp and die the i…

Hi It just got to my head that I should probably get rid of the box I have and make one myself. The one I have was bought from a shop and I dont even know what it is tuned to or the cubic foot. From the outter measurements, Im calculating 1.75-1.80 cubic foot. Here are the measurements of the current box I have my Pioneer TS-W3002D4 Well, basically I want my own box so that I know the exact tuning and size. First, I would like to know if its good to have a 12" tunned to 32Hz since thats what I want to have my box tuned at. 32Hz with ~1.80cubic foot AFTER subwoofer displacement. I would prefer to have subwoofer AND port facing the same way and box measurements ~15-16inche…

I came across these pics and was wondering if i could install some 8" mid-bass drivers in the same location. SQ/imagining is what i'm concerned about. Would it fly or should they be installed/positioned somewhere else?

Sorry for all the questions lately, but i'm getting very close to having my box complete, and want everything to be right. So, has anyone used bed liner for their boxes? I really like the look of it, and i really dont like the look of carpet (it's allright i guess, it just seems like everyone has it). Does anyone have suggestions on what kind i should buy and maybe a lil info on how to apply it and make it look good? Thanks to everyone thats replied to my questions.

I know those precision sound ports from parts express are pretty popular so i am thinking someone might have an answer for me when using the psp flared port length calculator (http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html) is the "flare length port required" from the ends of the flared portion of the port? or is it the straight length portion that the flared ends connect to? thanks in advance

Alright. Here is what I have to work with. The box will be for a 12" ICON. I want it ported to play low and deep. As you can see from the picture, the only dimensions I have play on are X and Y. I know nothing about round ports so help me out here. The ports coming out the top will be placed directly beneath my open 6x8 reardeck holes.

so my RL-i 10 has arrived, now i'm waiting on the amp. my 1st question is this. would putting the driver on the back side of the truck box be a bad thing? i know to allow for excursion clearance, but it would still be pretty close to the back wall of the cab (regular cab ranger btw). would there be some adverse effects from the air the sub is pushing not escaping away from the sub fast enough? here is a crude 1 minute drawing. i was thinking if it would be alright to face backwards; i would extend the sides of the box to act as a separator between the box and cab. i've seen boxes like this before, but they were facing the front to give separation from the seat. this n…

Ported SA does this make sense? Hey guys iv been searching back and forth between forums to calculate my box as close as possible. Before I spend more time and most importantly money on my design I'd like to know if I'm on the right track. Any help would be greatly appreciated Box width - 24 Box height -11 Depth 1- 8 Depth 2- 8.5 Total Net - .835 Port measurements Height - 3 Width- 3.5 Length - 29.64 Now when i put that port in the calculator it says my total net will be .653 the sa 8 calls for .5-.75 ported so I guess I'm right in the middle the other forum I used says that port will have the boxs original net volume of .641 ft3 tuned to 36 hertz Does this seem to be co…

My buddy had talked to me about building a box for his F-150 for 2 12" Xplods. Looking around I think it may be possibly to get 5 Cuft. (or very close) for the 2 12s. behind the seat I was curious what is the best way to face the ports and sub. I think the only way to face the the ports is up, but I do have the option of either down facing them down or foward. What is generally best practices for SPL?

is there a meter that costs like $150 instead of just stepping up to this. i dont need it to be that accurate i just want a round about number ... need something that can measure around 155 db (just to be safe lol)

hello hello. ive just built box for (2) Nightshade 15's, its tuned at 33 hz and really gets down.. im trying to brace my box and dont wanna take a chance of screwing up my tuning and overall eclosure. my box measures 49x24x20. with a port opening of 18.5hx8.5t. i guess im seeking advice on placement and what exatly would be the best to use. my face is doubled and my overall box is 1.25 thick.

So tonight at work I was discussing my upcoming sub build with a few guys. One of the master debaters argured that stuffing a sealed box with poly-fil was recommended and the other said it was a joke. Yes? No? Why? Thanks.

Hey, I have a whole trunk to fill on a Impala 1972. I plan on either getting (4) 12 BTL or (2) 15 BTL. What do you guys suggest for this trunk and setup? I have seen 4 12s in a straight box going across but dont know if these require more space. Maybe have two on either side in an arrow up formation, speakers facing the rear trunk. ( ^ ). I plan to build it square ported and have an appeal once done.

As I begin my adventure in the SQ lanes, I have been doing a lot of research and studying. My general synopsis is, for SPL, in a vehicle, we want the most reflective material possible, such a concrete, or marble, so that there is no loss in energy. Obviously this is not practical, but in this example, it will work. Ok, and for SQ, we want the total opposite, we want complete absorption so that none of the higher frequencies reflect, which can cause interference, overlap, and many other issues. From what I've seen, things such as egg carts, foam, or MLV would be the fix. So what I am asking, what would be the best and most particle material to use in the vehicle for sou…

Alright so ive been doing spl for three years now on a team and I just bought two new dd audio digital designs m3b amps strapped on my incriminator audio 18ns and well after playing one song for a short period of time they locked up and burnt the coils are these speakers really true too there power because I was told they could handle 3000 whatts each easy and I dont have the right current going too them I have two 100 batts in back and a heavy duty alt thats running 14.6 volts and drops too 12.8 on lows please help me im beyound frustrated at this point.