SPL & SQ / Fabrication

im 'this' close to putting my rl-p back into i.b. config-the sound was just to my likeing- but it will mean sealing up the trunk (fold down seats-rear shelf) properly. im thinking fibre glass and mdf and bondo and expanding foam? any sujjestions before i make mistakes?

I'm looking into building a new box and was wondering if there were any suggestions on the port's location. Its an extended cab truck and the subs and port will be upfiring with subs inverted. When competing it will most likely be USACI outlaw scoring with drivers door open. Would it be better to put the port on the passenger side, driver side, or center of the box?

Wassup guys, I just got in my possession 2 18 inch Aq hdc3's bnib. I will be walling my truck and my deminsions I came up with are 51'' width 38'' height 24'' deep. With 1.5in thick walls, I get 20.4 cubes. I gave my self alittle wiggle room for the height and width. I will be tuning to 36 hz with a 9x38 port that is 20.5 in long. It will be braced and before bracing will come out to about 8.2-8.4 per sub, that is after port displacement. If anyone could run those specs I would greatly appreciate it. This will be going into a 2000 gmc Sierra ext cab. They will be powered by 2 crescendo bc2000ds at 4ohm strapped daily then 1 ohm strapped for comps I'm looking fo…

Hey guys, I have 2 Older model Audiobahn Immortals (not the flamed out crap, and I got a good deal so dont rip on me please). I hit 140.8 legal on the TL with one in the trunk in a small box firing up in my civic, and want to put both in my backseat and make a temporary wall for a comp coming in a couple weeks, doesn't have to be perfect, but any pointers? People around here don't know there chit so I want to show people what a loud car is compared to some of the retards around here. Ill try and get some pics up but wondered if anyone could help at all. Thanks guys. Andrew

I am building a wall and still need to seal it off on the sides and wherever there is space in between the box and the car walls. Is there a cheaper more efficient method besides spray foam? I am asking this because I am going to need about 20 cans of spray foam, if not more. I have also heard that spray foam is hard to work with. If there is something that is about the same price but is easier to work with please let me know. Thanks!!!!

This is for 2-10" Alpine Type-R subs (SWR-1022D), and will be powered by an Alpine MRD-M501 amplifier rated at 550W into 2 ohm mono. These are my inside dimensions: Height 10" Depth 10" Width 15.25" Total is .88 ft^3/sub Total outside box dimensions are: 11"x11"x32" I need to put this box underneath a rear strut bar and from the bottom of the bar to the trunk floor is 11 1/2". Will this work or should I scrap the strut bar and build a taller box? Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Ed

hey guys i'm going to try a different stlye port than my slot port that ive always done and i'm wondering if anyone knows where to find some aero ports and whitch would sound better 2 6" ports or 3 4" ? its going to be for my 12" btl d2 daily. on my saz2000d amp box will be 2.5ft3 i'm looking for a low bass my current box is 32-33hz but my port area is too big and the sub tends to bottom out at high volume. and does anyone have any views if it would make a bigger difference going to a 30hz tuning ?

Whats the best way to cut a 14in diameter hole in plexiglass? Also, cut a 5in diameter hole in fiberglass? Thanks.

I want to go huge, so im goin to. I would like to get: Sub-Fi BTL 15" or 2 12" Amp-Sundown Audio SAZ1500D or Soundstream DTR1.3400 Alt-Iraggi Battery-Xs power (size unknown) or kinetic I dont know what to do about electrical, i know am going to do the big 3, i also know i need a new alt prob. Please help me out here, i want it to be cheap but i want good quality stuff to, i also want to do really well, ive been to 3 SPL comps and there sick, i loved seeing wat people did with their cars and what not. If you think there is a better sub or amp, let me know for a speakers i wont pay more than 500 for one and 750 for 2, for a amp i will not pay over 1000. If you can help it…

So this weekend I'm going to purchase another battery and start working on a battery rack\holder for the rear cargo area of my tahoe. I'll be running one battery there, but eventually I'll add more...A couple questions.. 1. Should I use wood to construct it? I heard MDF flexes over time? Would I be better off getting a friend who can weld to come up with something with metal? 2. It should probably be secured to something, right? I'm not sure if I want to start drilling a bunch of holes in the truck...Any ideas? 3. What are the max dimensions of a group 31 battery? 4. Anyone have any pictures of their battery setup and how it's secured? Thanks.

We Started today, with this. Enclosure in and playing. But ALL the pressure goes right to the back. Took the woofers out. 2 DC Lv4 XL 18"s. Picture of how large the gap is. Supplies Mocking up the start of the seal. Sealing up the bottom Priming Port for red paint. Then, red paint. Cutting out 1/2 MDF to make seal. Driver side sealing done!! Starting on passenger side. Making sure boot stays in place. ALL DONE........ Until suede tomorrow. P.S. This is the truck. and just so it's known, this is his just a toy. Nissan BEFORE Wall seal This is his daily. McGauhy's 2/4 Drop, Ls3, Magna Flow Dual Turn down's.

Sorry for all the questions lately, but i'm getting very close to having my box complete, and want everything to be right. So, has anyone used bed liner for their boxes? I really like the look of it, and i really dont like the look of carpet (it's allright i guess, it just seems like everyone has it). Does anyone have suggestions on what kind i should buy and maybe a lil info on how to apply it and make it look good? Thanks to everyone thats replied to my questions.

I am not sure what is the right way here? the sub is inverted and firing up. the slot port uses the bottom of the enlosure and fires toward the driver side. not sure where the sub would do best at. thanks chop.

I'm wanting to get some feedback/advice on this box I'm working on for my recent purchase from SSA. Any glaring problems in the design? It will fill the area between the back seat and hatch in an '05 Scion xB. Three 10" SSA DCON S4 subs wired to 1.34 ohm Amp: Audiopipe APSM-1300 (1000w @ 1 ohm) - will be replaced eventually, when funds allow Gross volume: 3.95 ft^3 Net volume: 3.3 ft^3 Port Dimensions: 3.75" x 11" x 27.6" Port area: 41.25 in^2 Desired tuning: 32Hz Would it be better to make the box taller and use a square port with more port area, and longer, in the same location?

Ported SA does this make sense? Hey guys iv been searching back and forth between forums to calculate my box as close as possible. Before I spend more time and most importantly money on my design I'd like to know if I'm on the right track. Any help would be greatly appreciated Box width - 24 Box height -11 Depth 1- 8 Depth 2- 8.5 Total Net - .835 Port measurements Height - 3 Width- 3.5 Length - 29.64 Now when i put that port in the calculator it says my total net will be .653 the sa 8 calls for .5-.75 ported so I guess I'm right in the middle the other forum I used says that port will have the boxs original net volume of .641 ft3 tuned to 36 hertz Does this seem to be co…

I have a 98 single cab ford ranger. Idk if I'll be satisfied with shallow mounts. I've been looking into the fi q. I really think I could fit it behind the seats with he sub directly behind the armrest. I think the recommended sealed volume is about .6-.8 cu ft for one 10" , and I've always wanted to try a Q out. Especially for lows. Anyone see any hope in this? I'm starting to become a little discouraged. According to box calculators, I could make the box out to about .8 after sub displacement. If I should just stop wasting my time and settle on shallow mounts, please give me cheap recommendations. I've never really heard one.

how much do you think a setup like this would cost i just want a wall going across my trunk (for 2 12" RL-P's) like in the pictures and maybe when i fold down my seats ill put some plexiglass so you can look at the subs but if it costs too much then its out of the question

I am looking for a box builder in the Louisville Ky area. I live in the Jefferson-town (J-Town) area (40299-3520) of Louisville Kentucky & I was wondering if any of you guys would know or recommend any box builders in the Louisville Kentucky or Southern Indiana Area. I just want someone who is good at what they do & will give me a fair price. I figure that cutting out shipping costs will save me at least $100.00 & with someone local they can actually see my car & build what I am actually looking for. Thanks Mike

Ok in the cargo area I got 38Wx20Dx22H. Was gonna only have it 20" high but bumped it up a lilttle to get as much box space as available. According to a box calculator on the12volt.com puts me at 8.01cf, figure about 7.5 after sub displacement (i think thats about right). I tried figuring out for ports and when I put in a 4" aeroport tuned to 32Hz put it at only 1.5" in length.....this does not seem right to me. I tried figuring out for a slot port at 4"x18.5" tuned at 32Hz put the length at 18.9". A 2"x18.5" slot only comes out to 8" of length. Does all this seem right? Tried to mock something up in google sketch but I failed pretty hard at that. If I can't figure thi…

I want to create my own blueprints for my own boxes. Is there any tutorial of some sort to organize and create my own blueprints? What about a tutorial for BassBox Pro? Thank you.

hi i got 2 sa-8 subs and im gona make 1.6 Cubic Feet = 45.3Liters enclosure but i dont know about port can you help to get calculations right with square port

Hey guys I am in meca and I am hitting a 144.9 on music with the car off because I am in AS2. I was told at the lastest show the Vinny if I were to make a so called fart box box size of 3.5 cubic feet with like two 6 in aero ports and tuning at like 50 hertz my current setup is 5 cubic ft after displacment and tuned at 40 htz I beleive. What I am wanting to know will this so called fart box get me any louder and see the bad thing is we don't have anyone with a termlab around me to test it. My set is a up memphis mojo 15d2 and I have a sundown 1200.1 with four guage and soon to be hopefully two runs of 0guage. Any help with this guys would mean alot to me and my dad. Also…

I have never built a box for a sub before, and now I am going to be building one for a 8" Kicker L7. This is going to be put into a Jeep TJ, so it does NOT have much trunk space at all. I am not too worried about the size of the box, because I can dimension it to the size of the trunk myself. What I am worried about and have no clue is how to make the port inside the box. I need to know how much space I need in the port to get the most air. Although it is an 8", I want it to perform the best it can through the box. I am looking on Kicker's website and these are the dimensions it says: Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 4-3/4, 12.1 Mounting Cutout, Square (IN.,CM) 7-1/4, 18.4 Min Re…

I have a Hummer H3 with dual Sundown sa-12D4's running off a Hifonics BRZ1700.1 with 145 amp alt, big 3, 0 gauge, 8 gauge power wire for the speaker wire. I have them in a box with dimensions 38x21.25x14; .75 mdf. The port is 12.5x4.5x31.5 long. I have made the port longer and shorter and can't seem to get it to peak around 34hz. It sounds like it is peaking around 38 or so to me. I have built many single sub boxes, and all of them end up being just about perfect, but I can't seem to get this dual box to sound correctly. I have made 3 different boxes trying to get my box hitting the lows well, but can't seem to do it. Could somebody please help me to get the right …

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