SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I would like to know what is the most accurate way to calculate QTC of a sealed enclosure. For example in WinISD i have the specs for my speaker in there and in a 1.2ft^3 it gives me a QTC of .704 In BBP6 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure it gives me a QTC of .56 And Calculating it from the formulas on these two sites. http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/sealed1.htm http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=29 They give me a QTC of .62 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure. So I would like to know which way is right?

Hey everyone I've been trying to mock up an enclosure for my truck in Sketch Up for 'bout a month now. I originally wanted to do 8 DC Sound Labs Level 3 12's. I really like DC audio and I have capabilities to get them at low costs. I wanted to do a 4th order but, I've been doing different designs and punching everything in to a 4th order calculator and using WinISD. I'm sorta stuck with ideas. Here's a rapid share of the usuable airspace and how the box would be shaped...a shell in a sense. mucho grasis, thank you, danke shon! http://rapidshare.com/files/184601903/blan...ge_perfect..skp I wanna stay using DC subs but I can change things around. I have a DD Z1 to pow…

Would it be better to but 45's here or would it be bad? The pics will explain it better. Option A. Option B. There are two, one on each side of the port. The box is 48" wide and the port is at the bottom in the middle, and is 30" wide. There is a 45 on the back opposite of these.

I am getting ready to make a box and need to know two things. I am building a box for a nightshade 12 and I got an aeroport. The box is going to be sub up port on the side 1) Can the port be inside like old times? The only reason I am asking is all I see nowadays with aeroports is crx style with ports out of box. Will I lose db's by putting port in instead of out? 2) If so how many cubes roughly would it take up? Port will be 15.5 inches long and its a 4 inch aeroport. I am trying to see what I need to make dimensions of box if port is in instead of out. I just want the best possible setup I can get for what equipment I have.

Hi I am starting my build very shortly and I have a question on making the sub box. I have made L slot port boxes before but for my 2 12" Fi SSDs I want to make the port in the middle. So the question I have is can I make it by just calculating for 1 of the subs and just build it together? Space is not an issue. Thanks ahead for all the input

I've got two of these but temporarily I want to see what one can do, I'll be running it off of 900wrms. Anyone want to design me a nice efficient box, tuned anywhere from 27-32 hz? Sub will have to be facing forward, aero ports preferred, 6" PVC pipe is what I'd like to use. Max dimensions (to keep it under window line) would be 54" length x 22" height x 15" depth.

I just buy a pair of RE from the SE 10" DVC 4ohm and i wanna a ask you for your recomendation of power for does to subs. how much power i can use to make it burp with out burning them? and last, how mucho cubic feets i make the box for spl use? thanks

can the single of a L-ported box be divided into two? instead of one port on one side and the sub on the otherside, it will look like ports on both end of the box with the sub in the center? if its possible, is there a calculator online for that? thanks...

I have 2 ReAudio SE 12's. I need a box design ASAP. It's going to sit in the back seats of my 2005 Chevy 4 door 2500HD. So the box can just be square, port center or one side. I want it to hit low ( listen to rap and rock ) but at the same time be ok in comps if I want to go ( for fun but still like to do good. ). The reason I just want it a simple design is so I can remove the box when needed not much room behind the seats so that was not an option. I plan to make this out of 3/4 MDF as well so may need to brace it. I will need a design with all measurements of course. I am just going to have lowes cut the peaces for me. A 3D design would be great so I can see how it all…

Hey everyone. I've got a 99 dodge 1500 regular cab. I built a box to go behind the seats that was about 2.4 cubes and had a 3" aero port, loaded with a Fi Bl 12. I resently bought a DP 12 and it is quite a bit louder than my Fi, but I know it can get louder. I'm building a complete fiberglass box to replace this one, and it will have the same basic layout, but I'm putting in a bigger port. I've got a 4" and a 6" aero port. So my question is, which would be a better combo: DP with 4" aero port, or DP with 6" aero port? I can possibly fit either one, but I want to know which one would be better for me. My music style is rap just because of the bass, and I LOVE the lows, and…

I've looked around for different test tones, i still dont know how to make my own, but i found a site that offers free test tones 10 seconds long. there is a place at the bottom to download a zipped version of all the songs. Stereo, 16 bit, 44,100 KHz 0 db http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/

So I was looking at pics of banginAltima's Altima and noticed the external aero ports were facing into the car thru the folded down rear seats. I'm building a box for 2 Fully Loaded 15" BL's and was wondering if I can do something similar. However, theres a catch to my set up. I have a 88' Grand Marquis that has a solid, non-folding rear seat. So I was wondering if I could make custom external aero ports thru my rear deck between the 2 6X9's. Would that have the same effect as it did in Altima's car? He gained about 4Db when he re-designed the box and port set-up. Or am I just being unrealistic?

I'm looking to build a new box for my blazer. I listen to mostly rock/metal but I do like rap. From what I've read 4 cubed and 30hz. If someone thinks differently i'm open to suggestions. My max dims are 37.5 wheel well to wheel well, 32 from the top of the rear seat to the tailgate, floor to top of seat is 15. I'm planning on putting in a false floor and I don't want to block my rear window so short is good. I'm running a hifonics brutus 1208D if that matters Thanks for any help

Hi, I am just about to start my build in my explorer and I have a few questions. I will be running Phoenix gold rsd 6.5 components in the front doors, Soundstream pcs.6.5 3 ways in the back. I have a kicker zx650.4 now the question is what is the difference between active/passive? and do I have the option to do the better sounding one? Also the subwoofer box I will be building I want to put the port inbetween the 2 subs but I don't know how to calculate it that way. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

It's about 7.4 ft^3 with a 13x6.5" port. Two 12" type r's are going in and will be running at 1000wrms. EDIT: What would be best to tune this box at? I'm doing daily and want it to sound good, not just loud. EDIT 2: Listen to mainly rap.

Hi i'm new to SSA forums but been around for a while on others. Who has run any type of isobaric set up before? The low end is efforless and immense and all from a smaller enclousere. Also the smaller cab plays the higher freqs really well and just makes for a very flat output over the whole range whilst still staying controlled. Basicly the iso' only makes use of the extra motor and has no real use of the other cone. Or even the other basket for that matter although the other basket make the whole rig easier to mount. I am thinking about a dual motor design and just simply linking the the 2 motors by extending the the formers so they meet. Who thinks this is a good idea…

Just as the title says, I'm paying this kid 10$ for a box design. He is going to be working with me to help figure it out what would be the best results, I think so atleast... Is that a decent deal?

Well, I thought this guy was going to help me out with coming up with the specs to build a box, but he barely replies to my emails. So now I am trying to figure out the specs for a box. I would rather build it due to cost, and have looked at the box builders further down on the site, but they are a little expensive. It will be for an 18" Fi btl, as I'm sure many other people have already asked for help on this. I don't have a limitation really for room for the recommended sizes because I have an SUV. Width about 41" from side to side, and I'll have to go measure the height and depth. I listen to rap. I'd rather have it be sub up, port back, but not a side port unless it…

Yes, i've used a table saw before, before anyone asks lol. But never for a box with mdf. The table saws i've used have always been pretty big, like shop table saws. I recently borrowed a 10" table saw from a buddy who builds boxes with it, but it's small as hell. It's really small, especially for the box i'm making (the biggest sides are 39.5"x21"). I even put tables on two sides, to help support the wood as it goes along the blade. I used a circular saw to make the mdf as small as possible for the saw, cutting the 4x8 in (about) half. Everytime i take a piece across, it kicksback pretty bad. Now i know i'm not the first person to use a small table saw for a big project,…

2 part question, lol. 1). I'll be getting an '05 Chevy crewcab next week sometime, and I was wondering if it's possible to get 2.5 cubes anywhere from behind/under the rear seat? 2). If not, I may consider a blow through. The problem is I dont want to cut a big hole. What effect on tuning would building a box like this? Thx for any/all help you guys can give. :clap:

Here is my plan, I'm open to any input but I think this is the setup that is best going to meet my goals. First off, car is a 2004 deville with stock 10" IB sub on the rear deck. There is also a center armrest with a 9" x 11" opening into the trunk. I plan to use 6 of the Exodus Audio 10" drivers, one in the stock location, and the other 5 in a roughly 12-13" cube, one on each side and one on the rear that feeds through into the cab somewhat like the home theater guys do with their basements. The subs are 8 ohms (6.1 nominal) so 6 should help me maximize whatever amp I choose to use. Looking at probably a Sundown 2000D or 3000D. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info..…

my box is going to be 7 cubes after displacemets. box is 20 inces deep (so one port side can be 18.5") 112 inches of port area, 33hz my question is, can i do two ports, each 18.5"x3" at 12" long for ~33hz would that yield a net port area of 112 and keep the 33 hz tuning? if not, how do i go about calculating this? im going to try to do a drawing real quick to help you see what im doing

3.7 cubes after port displacement with 48 square inches of port vs 3.2 cubes after port displacement with 56 square inches of port. Fi SSD 15" I know it probably wouldn't be a huge difference but which would get louder? In one you sacrifice air space but gain port space and the other you gain air space but sacrifice port space. So what I'm trying to say is which is more important when figuring loudness?

Here are the updated rules for MECA http://www.mecacaraudio.com/2009rulebook.pdf

So Ive got what looked like a decent box on paper (BBP6) but once built is quite depressing and seems to be choking the sub. It sounds decent but just leaves the thought that so much more could be gotten from it, but Im not all that great with designing boxes, every now and then a good one pops up. Another member gave me the idea to build the box in a way that the sub would angle some to fire more towards the rear glass and have the port fire back, if anyone is willing to toss in some input or maybe help with a design that would be greatly appreciated. Space to work with is 17.5" tall, 24" deep, and if possible 28" wide but could get up to 36" wide if I relocate the spare…