SPL & SQ / Fabrication

heres my box measurements 5.339 cubic feet i want to use areo ports to tune this box to 30 Hz I want to use maybe 2 - 4 inch areos or what ever you guys think would be the best to use please include the measurement of the flares too please break down the measurements to the areos ill get them for parts express. thanks guys, Bill. ps I need to know asap cause i have the box built its ready to go.

Okay so i'm planning on having a box built for 2 12"s and having the subs face the roof (see pic) I'm wondering if I have a top piece of wood above the subs, how that would affect the sound? The top piece of wood would be above the subs by a couple inches. This would allow me to put stuff on my box for storage (ex: my backpack...) Does this make sense?

Im gonna be getting my 15" custom juggernaut back from PSI soon and i was gonna build a reg ported box 4.5 cu 35 hz first, but i am kinda dabbling with the idea of a 4th order. ive tried looking up some info but so far i just have spent alot of time and still dont know that much about them. any opinions, advice or tips is appreciated. im mostly looking to figure out what the method is on figuring out how many cubes you need inside the sealed area, and how much you need in the ported area and what you port it to, and why you port it at that hz. im planning on building multiple boxes for this sub to figure out what i like best

ghs_wrestler 189 and I went to a local comp yesterday and they were using an old K & M mic that had been calibrated by Audiocontrol, according to the JL rep there. Somehow we went from 143 dB on a new Termlab with 5.1 cubes @ 36hz to 131 on this mic with 5 cubes @ 46 hz. Everyone was hitting kind of low, but there were people there that I guarantee would not have done better than us, but did. Any suggestions?

okay, well I got some money for my birthday, and was thinking of picking up some mdf to build a ported enclosure for the SUV. Single 15" sub off of 600 watts. mfg reccomended optimal enclosure is 4 cubic ft. tuned to 34 Hz. My max dimensions available are 38.5" W x 24" D x 18" H Here's what I was thinking: 38.5" wide by 18" high by 18" deep (outside measures, using .75" mdf) Sub up, port back. Port 16.5" high by 4" wide by 28" long (acoustical, physical 23.25" since it will have a bend) gives a gross volume of 5.82 cubic ft, net of 4.24 cubic ft after subwoofer and port displacement, tuning of 33.8 Hz will be adding some bracing but not enough to bring tuning …

When drilling into the mdf boards, it seems to split every time when i am screwing in i think there deck screws... Can anyone help me out and tell me what kind of screws to get for this project! Thanks, Curt

Can anyone make one for me? I'm not very good with sketchup or the cutlist plugin.

does anyone know the t/s parameters for an oz matrix elite 12.2(dual 2 ohm voice coils) since i can't find the bl or sd measurements anywhere? and from your past experiences what enclosure size,port and tuning is best recommended for maximum street bass?

I just bought a 18" FI BTLN2 and was wondering what is the best way to build my box. It is going in the back of a '97 nissan pathfinder. I know you need 3/4" MDF for the box but can you use 1/2"? thanks

Is the correct way the measure a port that has a 45 in it or do you measure like a standard L-Port.

Here is a link from CDT that has basic knowedge on staging, also includes many install guides and specs for their products. http://www.cdtaudio.com/downloads.htm

I am wanting to try building a enclosure with a flared port and was wondering exactly how to do it if anyone can help with this i would really appreciate it.

i cut out the factory speaker grill guard and i cut the hole to big and i was wondering what you guys recommend to patch it up. thanks alot.

Does anyone know a site where you type in your demensions and it figures it out for you with a cut sheet?

Im about to start building my box today, and i want to know the right screws and glue to get for it. thanks for the help.

Im thinking of wallin my truck (2000 gmc Sierra ext cab) and dropping another death penalty in there. But I have some questions. What is the best side for the body or dead center? Also would the area around it have to be completely sealed or can there be gaps along the sides behind a beauty panel? Do I double the port area? And will this affect sound quality?

When Calculating port length, How can you enter the box volume after port displacement, without knowing what the port length will be. Or do you put in what you want your box to be after the displacements and then design a box that takes this into account. For example, if you want a box to be 4.5 cuft. after displacements you would use this to calculate the port length. Then after you have that you would calculate the port displacement lets say is .5 , SO you would do .5 + 4.5 to get 5 cuft., then design a box that is five cuft before port displacement and use the port length that was calculated to get the desired tuning? If someone needs further explanation please ask. …

Okay, have done some reading around, and from what I'm seeing is that guys are getting good results in x-cab s-dimes with an up-firing sub/ side firing port design. So, I'm thinking I might give this a try. vehicle: 03 chev s-10 subwoofer: RE Audio SEx 15 (dual 4 ohm coils) Amplifier: JBL GTO 601 (600 watts @ 2 ohms) Looking at doing an enclosure out of .75" MDF Outside measurements: 15" height * 40" width * 16" depth Slot port: 14.5" wide * 3" high (port area of 43.5") * 23.5" long (tuning ~33.5 Hz) Net enclosure volume: 3.6 ft^3 Big question I have is, will 43.5" of port area be enough, or do I need more to prevent terrible port noise? Thanks for your opinions in advanc…

I build ported boxes on a pretty regular basis using the re enclosure calculator and they are always slot ports but i want to build a different box that uses a square port that isnt a slot port but I dont know the formulat to calulate the port area or convert the round port to a square port can anyone please give me some insite on how to do this please thanks alot .

I need to find out what the correct airspace is with this box. The depth is 20" with the sub facing up. The 36" is the bottom of the box. It's shaped like a "T" to fit over the wheel wells. I know it's kinda crazy, but I need to maximize the room I have for an 18" sub I have coming in shortly. Thx for your help, Vic.

i need to build a box around 2 cubic feet tuned at 33 htz with a maximum height of 17 inches, does this look right? also, sub up/port back or sub/port both back?

Hello all, I have discovered I am going to have to build a new enclosure for my subwoofer to fit in the current vehicle I drive to work. The car is an early 80's sedan with a large but shallow(height) trunk and I do not really care if I have much space left over. I am pretty good at building things and have no problems making a pretty elaborate box, so my question is: In the trunk of a car like this what is the best enclosure to build without walling off the backseat? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Mr_Jones

I want to build a box for my 2 12's. I want it to be ported but I'm having a really hard time finding a diagram or blue print. The recommended enclosure according to the website is .5 to 1 cu ft. Kinda confused as to what that means.

Needing recommendations on any and all used or heard systems with excellent SQ that have either personally blown you away or proved themselves in competition recently. Any info and opinion on the following are welcome with my proposed equipment in () Wiring thru KNU like always, damp pro like a pro, BIG 3, H/O alt if needed(pref not that much draw on a TL) and upgraded battery as install dictates. OEM integration - a must for this build sadly(360.2 by RF) sound processors (audio control, best model for needed corrections) component speakers - 2 sets F/B most likely fiberglassed to bring soundstage up (CDT, have loved every set I heard if installed right. Perfect for all s…

This is going in an RX8. Looking for a fairly good ground pounder with the ability to upgrade to 4 SA8's in the near future. Not sure This design has enough port area. Don't do too many ported boxes and would like to make sure before I waste the time building. Will be powered by a Sundown 2000D. Link to pic of enclosure I had worked up.: