SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i wanted to get the maximum amount of cubes i could get in my small pickup so i was thinking about a box that has shared chambers. are there any cons or bad things about a box for two subs with a shared chamber? its going to ported also and its for two fi bl 15s

OK i got this box made 4 yrs ago for my other car but it was a ported box for 2 12's. It was for 2 pioneer premiere ts-w12prs subs. Now i am not sure what the sub actually calls for on ported box but the is a review & Klippel Data on this sub here http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...newthread&f=24 Its a slot port box btw The box is pretty big Here is the outer dimensions of the box Height:12.5 Width:36 Length:26 I am using 3/4 mdf wood Here is the port length Width: 4.5 Length: 11 Depth: 18 Here is the specs of my w12gti's http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Bo...2GTi_rev_f.pdf I am currently using this box on 2 w12gti's with a sundown 1500d at 2 ohms which is 80…

Ok outa all my yrs of car audio i've never had a problem like this. It all starts i'm drivin and i goto turn the bass up and it plays for a while then cuts off. SO i'm like no bigE mayeb a fuse or bad connection. But i'm like lets test it so i turn off the HU and turn it back on and the system cuts back on. Turn it up again and the same thing happens so no i'm thinking bad connection somewhere. So next day i look at all the wiring and nothing seems to be a problem. I cut it on and it plays normal. I goto close the trunk and it cuts off. lol So i check erething again it looks fine but now a constant bass note plays wt the music even if you turn it down it continues to pul…

I have 2 sd1v2 10" running on a 1000d. I like the sd1v2s and all but want a little more. Anyone experienced Kicker CVTs. If so will they hit harder than these sundowns? The sd1v2s are sq's, are the CVT's straight SPLs?

Hey guys, Will be building my first box in the next week or so and I really just want to make it right the first time so i would be really grateful if you could check over my numbers before i go any further. Specs 2003 Ford focus 12" SI Mag re coned with fi softparts. So basically its the same spec as a Fi Q Aim 32 hz @ 2.5cuft (biggest recommended box for this sub) Subwoofer displacement - 0.16 cuft Port Displacement - 0.69cuft (Really didn't know how to work this out! Do you calculate the port as a separate component or just account for the wood that makes the port if so this is wrong) Baffles displacement - 0.10cuft (in my design i have quite a few baffles to brace t…

Hey guys im considering getting this passive radiator for my Fi BL12 TC Sounds VMP 15" The reason is i dont have room to port an enclosure underseat but i may be able to fit this. If i decide to go this route im going to design a port for the enclosure and then calculate the mass of air in that port to add the the PR, is this correct? I just want to run this idea by you guys since you all know so much

Alright so my box is 5.38 cubes internally after the displacements besides the port. Im using a tube port thats 8'' diameter and I want to tune to 32Hz. My box only has about 20 inches of height to work with inside, so some of the port will be sticking out the top. I want at least 4 inches between the port and the bottom of the box. If anyone can help me calculate it out that'd be appreciated.

if any of you guys can give me an idea of what type of box works best for an early 90's cavalier station wagon id appreciate it, im a trunk guy and dont really know what works best in that type of vehicle, aside from a wall what do you guys suggest? the box will house 2 DD9512's dual 1.5 ohm subs and be powered by a single earthquake d10.

I am looking to have a ported box made for my 15" FI Bl and have looked into the group buy for khaotik enclosures but the box specs wont fit in my car. im looking for somewhere around 4 cubes sub up port back and am limited to 34" wide and about 14" tall the depth doesnt really matter. i would also like a double baffle and either some sort of coating or carpet applied to the box. thanks in advance for any advice and help.

due to the complexity of the sides of my box, its going to be kind of hard to build a slot port on the top of the box. i was thinking, instead of a slot port, should i do like 4 6" aero's? (or whatever i need to get the right amount of port area) which leads me to my questions. -if you have 200 (example) sq in of port area, with a slot port, if you switch to aeros, do you still need a ton of aero's to get 200 sq in? or does less aeros equal out to the larger port area of a slot port? -aero ports in a wall. how will this work? i know one con is i dont get the natural bracing a slot port would provide, but ill deal with that, and add some extra bracing. -difference in sound…

Is there an experienced designer that can help me with a design

I have plenty of room for my overall volume, but fitting 3 10's and a port on the face is my challenge. I am going to have a box of around 3.25-3.75 ft^3 tuned to around 35. I was going for around 60 in^2 port area, my inside dimension is going to be 30.5 so that leaves me with a port that is 2" tall by 30.5" wide. Ive already done the math and have the depth on the box to easily fit the port length, but is there any reasons against a port of this shape? I thought about using about 4-5 4 inch round ports, which is either 48 or 60 in^2, but with either route I need to have ports longer than will fit inside the box, and I will not run an exterior port because this is my dai…

First post, Please bare with me. I did a search but didn't find what I was looking for. 2005 Ram 1500 Quad Cab My truck is all set-up with highs, deck, EQ, Kicker ZX.1000 amp (~1150W @ 2ohms). Looking to run a 12" BL Dual 1Ohm. I listen to mostly rap and hard rock, looking for a good box for the daily driver, I'd say mostly rap, real deep lows but I'd still like to hear the kick drums. I've never built a custom box before; I'm looking at 2.0 ft3 slot ported box @ 32hz. Will this limit the sub from reaching its full potential? The amp puts out real good clean power, I'd like the best possible box for my truck. Are there any pre-built boxes that will work well with …

Last time i made calculations I didnt account for a few things including the end correction of my slot port. I hope somebody with a lot of enclosure knowledge can help me out with this. Port Area 126 inches2 Port Tuning 32hz Port Internal Dimensions 9” x 14” x 39.85” Port Displacement (8.25” of the port will be external)(31.6” Internal Port) 9.75” x 15.5” x 14.25” =1.24625651 cubic feet 9.75” x 15.5” x 12.1” =1.058 cubic feet 1.24625651 + 1.058 = 2.30 cubic feet + 0.18 cubic feet (Subwoofer Displacement) = 2.48 cubic feet (Total Displacement) Subwoofer Dimensions Needed (9.23 cubic feet) 36 x 15 x 35.75 = 9.231 cubic feet before displacement 9.231 – 2.48 = 6.751 cu…

i built a sealed box for this sub .6 cubic feet and it sounds good but it depends on the notes and it just drops off different notes and its loudness lacks majorly im very disappointed in this subwoofer... i have 800 rms going to this sub at 4 ohms and my amp can be wired to 1 ohm at 1600 watts rms and it still sounds like crap? help a brother out.... thanks im at lose and ready to sell the box is air tight its a good box. i m lost ?

first off i am not mister know it all so please bare with i do know a lot but will see . but any ways what is it with resonant tuning frequency? would it be better to tune low as possible for like a t line and get a higher score? unless your talking frequency length. the lower in the octave you got the hard the bass hits right ??? with in reason of course like the sub dropping off and just can't play well at 18 hz were it plays better at 47 Hz etc etc ... because the music energy is reaching the mic at it full potential of 47Hz if you tune to high the spl drops off again so you lose power in the spl right??? so why would you look for a resonant frequency like 18 hert…

I plan on competing SQ this year. I'm not sure on what pics I need for the presentation. Can somone give me some tips to get me started? Thanks

ok i posted this on another spot on this fourm but i think i might have put it in the wrong spot....im building a box (hopefully my btl will be here soon) im going with sub up and port back....i was wondering if its would be best to put the sub over the port or closer to the front of the box or just in the center

well its that time of year again, when i have some money comin in. Hopefully this will be finished up in the next few months. its goin in my 84 cutlass. 2 Mach 5 MJ-18, off of a AQ 1200. the box is 10.97 cubes @ 34 hz, and 175 sq. inches of port. the bracing in the pics isnt what its actually gonna be like, i got in a hurry and just threw it in, ill be glassin the inside and usin thread rod. the corners will also have 45's. oh and its out of 1'' mdf. Comments or suggestions appreciated. demensions are 42 wide, 29 tall and 24 deep. It seems that a box that big with that much port would have horrible port noise, but supprising in the car none of my boxes have have ve…

i cut out the factory speaker grill guard and i cut the hole to big and i was wondering what you guys recommend to patch it up. thanks alot.

Well I'm trying to plan a fiberglass build for my twin 12" jl w6v2's that will be going in my WRX (sedan). I've asked around to get suggestions on how to go about the design, but noone seems to be able to help me with my question?? I know with a regular box your kind of limited to either just facing your subs straight back or straight foward... straight back, pushed up against the backseat usualy being "as good as your going to get" as far as cabain gain goes. What I've been trying to find out is, since sub orientation is just about limitless with fiberglass, what orientation will yield me the best possible cabin gain and sound in my trunk? Like facing the subs towar…

im building my third box but first wall and i always wonderd if when i calculate the cubic feet of the box do i subtract the port cubic feet??? i have come up with a box thats 17.5cf but the port is 2.4cf and each woofer is .25cf so its like 14.6cf .please some one correct me if im wrong im not to sure

I have spent the last few weeks playing with the orientation of my sealed subwoofer box in my trunk and found the best orientation (to my ears anyway) I am now designing a ported box and was wondering if the optimal orientation will change sealed vs ported? Here is the current orientation:

heres my box measurements 5.339 cubic feet i want to use areo ports to tune this box to 30 Hz I want to use maybe 2 - 4 inch areos or what ever you guys think would be the best to use please include the measurement of the flares too please break down the measurements to the areos ill get them for parts express. thanks guys, Bill. ps I need to know asap cause i have the box built its ready to go.

im building a box for a Pioneer TS-W1207D4: 1.65 cu ft 3"x5.5'' port displacement: 0.076 the box ive built is about 1.9ft^3 without any displacements. i'm assuming the 3"x5.5" is the port area and i just need to calculate the length? if so, how long do i need the port for ~35-38hz?