SPL & SQ / Fabrication

My question is, is it worth it to double up on 3/4" mdf on all sides, or should i just strengthen the side holding the sub? 18" Fi Bl--- p chamfer and flatwind 39"x18"x22" (sub is on 39x22 side) tuned to 34.4xxx hz any suggestions? thanks. also, this is a daily driver, not going to a termlab anytime soon, just want it to be a good, solid setup for daily driving.

Gains will be set low (to start off, i realize hifonics isn't top of the line, but it'll do the job well even if it is overrated).. so any suggestions on a good wiring kit to buy?

My db drag partners ride this season 4- AUDIOPULSE 15'S, WALL 8- AMPS STRAPPED, 20,800 WATTS RMS 8- BATTERIES 2- ALTERNATORS= 510 AMPERS AND 300 INCHES OF PORT -Each amp at .5 ohms just like my sundowns (same wiring on the dual amp single woofer strap) -156 legal (156.4 later that night) with three out of 4 of the 15's on -amps have not been matched perfectly yet -woofers have not all broken in -wall still has not been sealed off -no deadening yet -batteries were uncharged

had today off, ran up to the shop... and did a 147.2. voltage drop was to about 11.5 or so, with just the optima of front, popped the 300A breaker. Kinetik 2400 came in yesterday, I really need to find somewhere to fit the damn thing in...

subs: 3 12" hx2 do i need 4" or 6" ports? tuning suggestions also welcome...i was thinking 6 ft^3 @ 34 hz

Yes... I have moved from Corpus Christi and have brought back USACI to the DFW area. I look foward to getting back in the groove with everyone here. You can check out www.myspace.com/usaciofnorthtexas If you need to know who I am and what I have done, go to www.myspace.com/bigmel22 Thats my life story and I hope to lower the boom in the DFW area.

i just went on car stereo.com and i have a 2 cu.ft. box and to tune it to 34hz with the sub being an icon 12 the round port would be 4" diameter and 11.72" long is this right

When building a common chamber ported box for four subs do I take the suggested enclosure volume for the sub and multiply it by the number of subs. ex. A sub requires 1.25 cub. feet minimum. The enclosure is going to have 4 of these subs does that mean that the box should be 5 cubes since 1.25 x 4 = 5

check it out... im getting fustrated.... i have a trunk full of great audio.... BUT...... someone with bullchit in the back of there suv is close to being the same ear level audio as I....... so what else can i do... the way i see it is i need an suv... then i can put what i already have in it and it will be 10 times louder....

Can I get away with using a single 4 inch port for my Icon 12? I don't have enough room to get 2 ports in due to the length. Lets assume the box is 3 cubes after sub displacement. Can be made smaller if that is optimal.

Went to competition today out in South West Fort Worth.(Whole new world to me.) Got my single 12" SS SPLX back so I decided to strap both Sundowns to it for 0.5 ohm per amp and let her rip. On my Kinetik with almost no charge last night I did a 151.3 in a 60Hz SPL box. 2.5 cubic foot box tuned to 60Hz with 2 4" aero ports 6 inches long with 1 coat of fiberglass resin on the inside, and the master amp at 1/2 gain. Will post up a pic of the setup and score as soon as I get them uploaded.

not for sure where or when this happened, james herren sent it to my phone, hence the crappy quality. anyway, figured it would be good for some laughs. and yep, it's a 172.2db run. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

not sure if this is the right spot but anyways any of you guys try to fit 1 or 2 of these under the seat of a pick up before? the truck actually is a 2006 F 150 super cab.....dont get it confused with a super crew. Im gonna try and figure out the box today and i just thought of using these i was going to run two 8's ported off 1 SAZ 1500D. im also considering two RE 8's too but i figured the AA would handle the power better than the RE's. Anways the other question i have is how much room is good to have between the cone and the floor of the truck. cuz i know i should beable to fit the RE's in there but the AA's are going to be tight as they are a bit taller in depth t…

What are the advantages and downfalls of fabricating the vehicle below for a SPL vehicle. http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/browse/g...oud/51586_mp6d9 Playing with the idea and would like some feedback. Much appreciated.

I know the pic is small and I'm not saying I will do this(but hopefull) Should I be concerned about cancellation problems or is this design ok

I started the cuts today, and want to put it together soon, but theres a few things i'm missing. I know i need to pilot the holes, but what size screws? I was thinking 1 5/8" Drywall screws. And for the glue.. should i just use regular carpenter glue/weldbond or something special? Also i read that MDF is porous, so should i seal it? and with what? And someone on a different forum mentioned to do seomthing different for the edges/corners.. .any idea what he meant? 1. 1 5/8" drywall screws? 2. Weldbond/carpenter glue or something else? 3. What kind of sealant if any? (recommendations?) 4. What should i seal edges with? I know its long but thanks for readin.

Just letting you local guys know April 12 is the crutchfield show in Harrisonburg Va. and there will be another show the next day in Charlottsville Va, both are 2x MECA shows. Ragnaroksq and I will be making the trip. any other SQ guys going?

Alright. Here is what I have to work with. The box will be for a 12" ICON. I want it ported to play low and deep. As you can see from the picture, the only dimensions I have play on are X and Y. I know nothing about round ports so help me out here. The ports coming out the top will be placed directly beneath my open 6x8 reardeck holes.

I would like to make a vented box similar to this with the top ledge on it. The pic attached is of my current box. The front of the box is to the right. I'd like to make a ported box in the same shape with two ports each pointing out of the top directly through my open 6x8 speaker holes in the deck.

hey, i am familiar with both ported and sealed boxes. but im not sure what is better, i know that ported boxes hit cleaner and i know ported you will have more spl. but i heard that with ported you get cone distoration and the sub hits sloppier. im just wondering what your specs are? thanks

http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/phpBB3/viewt...?f=7&t=3362 any thoughts?

I've attached a picture of the panel I need to make a box to fit in. I would love to be able to mold the box outside of the car, but I'm concerned with the trunk panel folding over and not keeping its proper shape. What are my options?

Hi everyone. I'm a new guy here on your forum. I'm going to need some help from any REAL GOOD box designers here. I just bought (waiting for it to be shipped to me) a 15" Kicker L5 and i'm going to power it with a Hifonics BXI1206D amp. I'm currently driving a '01 Expedition and i took out the 3rd row seat so i have A LOT of space to use here. I'd like to go with a vented box, something that will give me some pounding bass but clean. This is what i'll be using: JVC KD-AVX2 headunit (2) audiovox headrest monitors DLS 5 1/4 component speakers (front) DLS 5 1/4 speakers (rear) HIFONICS BXi1206D - for sub HIFONICS ZXI6406 - for front and rear speakers KICKER L5 15" DVC 4ohm …

Ok, I have done the measurments for my truck and i should be able to fit 2 10" icons in my truck. They will be in a 2.5ft^3 box after driver and port displacement. I used the calculator at carstero.com and it says that i need a ~8" diameter port for the box tuned to 30 hz. Would that be a suitable frequency for that size box? If so the only opitions for port size is a single 5" port 27" long, or two 4" ports at 20" long? The single port will be on the driver side firing into the side of the cab, and the 2 ports will be on either side of the box. Will ports that small be choaking(spell check) the air flow, or will they be fine? im leaning towards the 2 4" ports though…

how is it done ? what am i suppose to do with the crossovers for ea. set of mids ? tweeters ? is there a diagram?