SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I know the pic is small and I'm not saying I will do this(but hopefull) Should I be concerned about cancellation problems or is this design ok

Alright. Here is what I have to work with. The box will be for a 12" ICON. I want it ported to play low and deep. As you can see from the picture, the only dimensions I have play on are X and Y. I know nothing about round ports so help me out here. The ports coming out the top will be placed directly beneath my open 6x8 reardeck holes.

I would like to make a vented box similar to this with the top ledge on it. The pic attached is of my current box. The front of the box is to the right. I'd like to make a ported box in the same shape with two ports each pointing out of the top directly through my open 6x8 speaker holes in the deck.

hey, i am familiar with both ported and sealed boxes. but im not sure what is better, i know that ported boxes hit cleaner and i know ported you will have more spl. but i heard that with ported you get cone distoration and the sub hits sloppier. im just wondering what your specs are? thanks

Hi everyone. I'm a new guy here on your forum. I'm going to need some help from any REAL GOOD box designers here. I just bought (waiting for it to be shipped to me) a 15" Kicker L5 and i'm going to power it with a Hifonics BXI1206D amp. I'm currently driving a '01 Expedition and i took out the 3rd row seat so i have A LOT of space to use here. I'd like to go with a vented box, something that will give me some pounding bass but clean. This is what i'll be using: JVC KD-AVX2 headunit (2) audiovox headrest monitors DLS 5 1/4 component speakers (front) DLS 5 1/4 speakers (rear) HIFONICS BXi1206D - for sub HIFONICS ZXI6406 - for front and rear speakers KICKER L5 15" DVC 4ohm …

I've attached a picture of the panel I need to make a box to fit in. I would love to be able to mold the box outside of the car, but I'm concerned with the trunk panel folding over and not keeping its proper shape. What are my options?

Ok, I have done the measurments for my truck and i should be able to fit 2 10" icons in my truck. They will be in a 2.5ft^3 box after driver and port displacement. I used the calculator at carstero.com and it says that i need a ~8" diameter port for the box tuned to 30 hz. Would that be a suitable frequency for that size box? If so the only opitions for port size is a single 5" port 27" long, or two 4" ports at 20" long? The single port will be on the driver side firing into the side of the cab, and the 2 ports will be on either side of the box. Will ports that small be choaking(spell check) the air flow, or will they be fine? im leaning towards the 2 4" ports though…

Hello today i went to my local come depot and they didnt have mdf wood all they had was particle wood, if anybody knows where can i get 1 inch mdf wood at please let me know I AM A be building a box for my btl 18 pretty soon thanks.

To have a loud LOW end and the SMOOTHEST transient response (not punchy) and DEEP overall which type of box should I get.

trying to decide on 2 different setups and basically, if you like loud (40hz area) but also don't wanna lose that low rumble in the 29-32hz area, what setup would be ideal? all ran off of a 5,000w amp 3 12" Fi Qs(BP option mandatory) Sealed in 4 cubes. 3 10" AQ-HDC3s ported at 37hz. I know that the 10s are louder but i have never done a setup of this magnitude and am wanting to know really, for someone who may have done something this loud before, what is your opinion on this? I know the sealed setup, i can get my lows just fine, will not be as loud as the 10s but is it gonna be very noticeable? Basically, i can give you a scenario- If i set SSF to let's say to start roll…

Ok so I have an 02 extended cab gmc and Im wanting to put some subs in. Im looking for it to be loud and clear. Im willing to lift the seat up 2 inches. Im not sure if you guys have worked with my type of vehicle before. So far im looking at the icons mainly for the sq but I want loud aswell so maybe the AQ HDC products. Maybe suggest subs and box makers or sites to go for box. Im wanting to do 2 subs under the seat but not sure if I have the room. Any and all help would be appreciated.

sup planning on entering in my first spl comp. in Roanoke Va. Mar.22. Was reading the rules and got somewhat stuck on the part about the fuse requirements. I'm using a 200amp circuit breaker, do i need to install a fuse in its place to enter. Will be running a saz-1500d on 2 12" lvl4 d1, also would be considered AS1 or AS2. Hope to meet some of you there. Styllikeitloud

what did you guys you to build your ported box? i mean how did you figure out port length and tuning? what programs did you use or equations.

Hi guys Trying to get started on enclosure this morning for a Jeep Cherokee. Want to be able to see out of the back window. Listens to Metal/Rock. Tuning ~ 35-37hz okay Amp ~ Rockford Fosgate 40001 I now have these max internal dimensions to work with before speaker and bracing displacement. 40" W 23" H 24" D Thanks for any help Shizzzon I've sent you a new PM Goal is doing what it takes to get max air space so a ported enclosure is possible. Subs up port back. Box will also be double baffled. Can anyone double check my work and see what kind of port you come up with. Probably one rear chamber and one big port slotted and vented. Thanks in advance, Joe

Im designing a new box for the new mag whenever it comes out and im going to stick my current sub in it for now (old 10" circle solo baric). I currently have it all figured out for 1.68 cubic feet. After the sub and port displacement that gives me the recommended 1.5 cubic feet with a 4 inch pvc port that is 19.12 inches long for a tuning of 32hz. Now my problem is that my box isnt long enough (20") for that lenght of port. Could I use 2 2 inch pvc ports each 9.55" to get the same tuning of 32hz? This will be going in my 05 king cab frontier so thats why im kinda limited on space. Also im thinking of putting the sub towards front of vehicle and port up, any advice t…

I attempted to download the IASCA rules today from IASCA's website (that looks and works like it was created by an 8 year old) and they require an account for download. For what reason, I have no idea. They also locked the PDF's so you can't print them. Anyway, I got the files another way and uploaded them to FloridaSPL.com/iasca (no account needed)

I need to build a slanted box and obviously the port is going to need bending. Should I go with a labyrinth port or an l-shaped port ? How do I calculate the lenght of the port, because the top part of it is going to be shorter than the bottom. Should I average the lengths ? A couple pictures might help... To my understanding that would be an overall length of ~40cm. Am I right or am I terribly wrong ?

ill let the pics tell the story Many Thanks too Pierce Audio Products for the Comps

Ok so i have been doing a lot of research for the past 3 months on my plans for a setup. i decided that i am going to go with 4 18"Fi SSD in a blowthrough enclosure designed by peter kulicki (still designing) with a Sundown 3000D (still saving up for it). but my dad told me my subs are going to kill my highs. currently have 4 kicker 6x9s doing the work but i am looking for some suggestions on an extreme setup for some highs in my single cab. by extreme i mean i want way more than a set of comps and tweeters. any help will be appreciated if you wanna check out some pics of my truck you can check it out here!! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/797852

I want to build a box for my 8's I have 4 aa assians its goign to go in a gmc serria 2 wheel drive reg cab i would like some software to do it tryed a few places but the things wont work my a chitty computer i cant make the box as big i as i want cuz of space so if u know of any free god software or any "cheap" software that I could buy that would be great

Ok so my 10" JLW3v2 blew for no reason that i could tell the other day. I have it powered with the JL 250/1 monoblock I bought the sub used on ebay a while ago and never tested both voice coils so I think one of them may have been bad because no wires were loose when I opened up the box, but anyway, enough about that sub. Now I want a new sub and the Boston Acoustics G210-4 caught my eye. I like how it sounds tight and clean and it seems like it'll match my amp well w/ a max RMS of 300 from the sub. My problem is my current box is .71 cubic feet and on Boston's website and Crutchfield it says the sub wants .5 cubic ft (The calculation of the dimensions on their spec s…

someone posted up a link to a SMdesigns thread that had a whole bunch of tips and help for building a good transmission line box. Whoever posted this up please let me know, as i am having trouble searching for it. Much thanks to anyone who has this link. Mike.

I have always wondered this and I'm hoping to get it answered. Is there a better way to aim subs? Most people I've seen have had their subs in the front of the trunk aiming to the back of the trunk. But people have also had the subs aim towards the back seats. And I've seen subs aimed to the sky. Is there any advantages to aiming subs to different places? What about the port. Most ports I have seen are right next to the woofer. What if the port was on the side of the box, what about the back? Top? Is this just the way people do it, or is there an advantage of having the port next to the woofer.... Any input is greatly appreciated

Hi there, hope it s not too early to start asking for help. I've got 2 RE XXX v3 18s but running only 1 @ the moment cause there is no room for 2 so I m getting them resized to 15s. Could somebody please help me with the design of a enclosure for 2 RE XXX v3 15s??? external measurement would have to be max. W 36 H 24 D 28 Dropping low but musical ... Thank u in advance, Andre