SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i have noticed a desterbing trend on every forum... when someone post about : Loud SPL or anything bigger than a 10" sub the SQ sharks come out in force and rain on our good time. but GOD forbidd i rant on one of there rich boy toys *cough JL audio cough* can we have a lil less nagging from the SQ bunch PLEASE??? how would they like it if i/we go into there threads and NON STOP SLAMM them for having over priced underpowered subs & whatever ??? cant we all just accept that everyone has a different point of view as to what sounds good

To have a loud LOW end and the SMOOTHEST transient response (not punchy) and DEEP overall which type of box should I get.

trying to decide on 2 different setups and basically, if you like loud (40hz area) but also don't wanna lose that low rumble in the 29-32hz area, what setup would be ideal? all ran off of a 5,000w amp 3 12" Fi Qs(BP option mandatory) Sealed in 4 cubes. 3 10" AQ-HDC3s ported at 37hz. I know that the 10s are louder but i have never done a setup of this magnitude and am wanting to know really, for someone who may have done something this loud before, what is your opinion on this? I know the sealed setup, i can get my lows just fine, will not be as loud as the 10s but is it gonna be very noticeable? Basically, i can give you a scenario- If i set SSF to let's say to start roll…

Well, that meter is comin in handy... I've got spreadsheets on my computer right now of multiple setups of what they do from 30hz-52hz in 1hz increments off of a 100w amp. I chose low power so when i make a change i can see it's difference better with low power. So far i've tested 8 different positions(i don't list all of them due to bad output and tested others with failure as well in output potential) using 1 10" sub ported at 42hz(just because it's only box i have at the moment before it gets warmer) (This is daily driver only) I've tested all positions AT THE HEADREST ONLY. So, all the Db ratings below are noticeably low. I've been to comp before in the past but m…

what did you guys you to build your ported box? i mean how did you figure out port length and tuning? what programs did you use or equations.

sup planning on entering in my first spl comp. in Roanoke Va. Mar.22. Was reading the rules and got somewhat stuck on the part about the fuse requirements. I'm using a 200amp circuit breaker, do i need to install a fuse in its place to enter. Will be running a saz-1500d on 2 12" lvl4 d1, also would be considered AS1 or AS2. Hope to meet some of you there. Styllikeitloud

What is everyones definition of Sound Quality?

Im designing a new box for the new mag whenever it comes out and im going to stick my current sub in it for now (old 10" circle solo baric). I currently have it all figured out for 1.68 cubic feet. After the sub and port displacement that gives me the recommended 1.5 cubic feet with a 4 inch pvc port that is 19.12 inches long for a tuning of 32hz. Now my problem is that my box isnt long enough (20") for that lenght of port. Could I use 2 2 inch pvc ports each 9.55" to get the same tuning of 32hz? This will be going in my 05 king cab frontier so thats why im kinda limited on space. Also im thinking of putting the sub towards front of vehicle and port up, any advice t…

I attempted to download the IASCA rules today from IASCA's website (that looks and works like it was created by an 8 year old) and they require an account for download. For what reason, I have no idea. They also locked the PDF's so you can't print them. Anyway, I got the files another way and uploaded them to FloridaSPL.com/iasca (no account needed)

Hi guys Trying to get started on enclosure this morning for a Jeep Cherokee. Want to be able to see out of the back window. Listens to Metal/Rock. Tuning ~ 35-37hz okay Amp ~ Rockford Fosgate 40001 I now have these max internal dimensions to work with before speaker and bracing displacement. 40" W 23" H 24" D Thanks for any help Shizzzon I've sent you a new PM Goal is doing what it takes to get max air space so a ported enclosure is possible. Subs up port back. Box will also be double baffled. Can anyone double check my work and see what kind of port you come up with. Probably one rear chamber and one big port slotted and vented. Thanks in advance, Joe

I need to build a slanted box and obviously the port is going to need bending. Should I go with a labyrinth port or an l-shaped port ? How do I calculate the lenght of the port, because the top part of it is going to be shorter than the bottom. Should I average the lengths ? A couple pictures might help... To my understanding that would be an overall length of ~40cm. Am I right or am I terribly wrong ?

Hello today i went to my local come depot and they didnt have mdf wood all they had was particle wood, if anybody knows where can i get 1 inch mdf wood at please let me know I AM A be building a box for my btl 18 pretty soon thanks.

I want to build a box for my 8's I have 4 aa assians its goign to go in a gmc serria 2 wheel drive reg cab i would like some software to do it tryed a few places but the things wont work my a chitty computer i cant make the box as big i as i want cuz of space so if u know of any free god software or any "cheap" software that I could buy that would be great

someone posted up a link to a SMdesigns thread that had a whole bunch of tips and help for building a good transmission line box. Whoever posted this up please let me know, as i am having trouble searching for it. Much thanks to anyone who has this link. Mike.

I have always wondered this and I'm hoping to get it answered. Is there a better way to aim subs? Most people I've seen have had their subs in the front of the trunk aiming to the back of the trunk. But people have also had the subs aim towards the back seats. And I've seen subs aimed to the sky. Is there any advantages to aiming subs to different places? What about the port. Most ports I have seen are right next to the woofer. What if the port was on the side of the box, what about the back? Top? Is this just the way people do it, or is there an advantage of having the port next to the woofer.... Any input is greatly appreciated

Hi there, hope it s not too early to start asking for help. I've got 2 RE XXX v3 18s but running only 1 @ the moment cause there is no room for 2 so I m getting them resized to 15s. Could somebody please help me with the design of a enclosure for 2 RE XXX v3 15s??? external measurement would have to be max. W 36 H 24 D 28 Dropping low but musical ... Thank u in advance, Andre

Shizzzon as always if anyone would llike to chime in feel free. Shizzzon has been such a big help to me I wanted to ask him in particular about something I know I have faith in him for. My Port Love everyones ideas though so again chime away! 4 Shizzzzle I've been trying to send you a message w/ my phone #s and invite to for you and whomever to stay at mine and Kelly's home. For some reason I'm not able to send. In the attempted PM i got carried away w/ the following so I'm just making it a topic so I don't lose it. (computer has been acting up maybe on last leg) This would be the help I need from you for my "big boy" system! My previous favorite enclosure was…

Ok so my 10" JLW3v2 blew for no reason that i could tell the other day. I have it powered with the JL 250/1 monoblock I bought the sub used on ebay a while ago and never tested both voice coils so I think one of them may have been bad because no wires were loose when I opened up the box, but anyway, enough about that sub. Now I want a new sub and the Boston Acoustics G210-4 caught my eye. I like how it sounds tight and clean and it seems like it'll match my amp well w/ a max RMS of 300 from the sub. My problem is my current box is .71 cubic feet and on Boston's website and Crutchfield it says the sub wants .5 cubic ft (The calculation of the dimensions on their spec s…

I have 2 Assassin Series 8's I need to know how to make the port and how big. The box I have a pre made it is this http://www.millionbuy.com/hbx8antcm.html its .51 cubic feet any help would be great

ill let the pics tell the story Many Thanks too Pierce Audio Products for the Comps

Ok so i have been doing a lot of research for the past 3 months on my plans for a setup. i decided that i am going to go with 4 18"Fi SSD in a blowthrough enclosure designed by peter kulicki (still designing) with a Sundown 3000D (still saving up for it). but my dad told me my subs are going to kill my highs. currently have 4 kicker 6x9s doing the work but i am looking for some suggestions on an extreme setup for some highs in my single cab. by extreme i mean i want way more than a set of comps and tweeters. any help will be appreciated if you wanna check out some pics of my truck you can check it out here!! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/797852

i just had my wood cut from lowes (they did a bad job cutting) and i was wonder what size screws should i use to put the together? i dont have a router so what else could i use to cut the hole out for my sub? i have some titebond wood glue and some heavy duty liquid nails here.

So, explorers finally safetied.... Now i am going to start the box build. I plan on installing 2 15's for now, but 4 in total down the road. My question, would it be bad for the subs to oversize the box to leave room to cut in speaker openings down the road? The subs call for roughly 3.5 @ 33-35 hz, if i made the box like 12 cubes tuned to the proper frequency what effect would it have? How does the increased size effect the sound and response of the sub? Will their be any dangers in running a sub in an oversize inclosure for daily driving? Thanks in advance. Chris McDonald

Ok, i thought i had tested enough as to how exactly i am going to build and face my box but maybe i'm wrong so i'm going to buy this meter - http://cgi.ebay.com/186-db-SPL-SOUND-LEVEL...1QQcmdZViewItem They say that it is calibrated just like some other top of the lines including the new Termlab sensors. I would buy a TL but not for the price they want for just building the best box for my money. All you do with this thing is hook it up to a DMM and the voltage it outputs, you look at this chart to see your Db reading. It is accurate down to 1\1000th of a volt AND Db so that's interesting. The slightest change can be detected which is great. So, here in the near future…