SPL & SQ / Fabrication

any one with a 2.2-3.0 cu./ft speaker enclosure for sale. it is needed to house a single 12" bl tuned to 32 hz. o fit in trunk of 2006 ford focus zx4. also if no on that then i need a box for two 12's for trunk of same car with same speakers 12" bl fi loaded.......G

Well, i just did some testing with about 30 songs and frequencies from 27-55hz individually with positioning a ported and sealed box around in the hatch to determine what sounds loudest to the ear. I only faced sealed forward, everything else is for ported. This test though is with port and sub on same side. I have a sub up port back box but no sub to fit it, lol Sealed firing forward, right behind rear seat - Basically everything just drops in output. IT all sounds the same, just quieter so that definitely isn't recommended. Fire rear, box against the back seat- the mid range 50-60hz seems to hit hardest by doing this but not by much more than firing directly forward! …

i was wondering if anyone could help me with some plans for a box, for my 15" its an alpine type-r. i no, not the greatest. but its my 1st sub. the opening on my trunk is about 41" by 18" also i have a picture, if that helps.

I am getting AA Assassin Series 12"D4 and I want to make a box for them in my tech class. My goal is to make a transmission type box. I am just not sure what you need to do it right. Like how to tune how big you need to make the vent. I want to make the box about 4-5 ft. If anyone can help me that would be great.

I like to think up things i haven't never seen done so let's get some opinions in here because i wanna see what people think how this would work - I don't feel like drawing a pic so i'm going to rely on your visualizations to see this box in your head. Let's take a 12" sub. Let's put it in a ported box at 2.5 cuft. Tuning... thats the interesting part. Ok, so build a box with 5 walls, not 6, 5. Leave the rear wall completely off. Now, let's say for quick number crunching, the box is as follows - (all external) 16" wide x 16" tall x 16" deep with no rear wall. Now, let's build another box with no sub cut out, again with 5 walls, not 6. Dimensions for this box is as foll…

Has anyone used eDead for sound dampening. I know that their subwoofers arent great, is this true with their dampening materials as well? I won't pay the outrageous price for Dynamat, I can't afford to spend $400+ to do my car. I can get eDead for .80 cents per square foot. Even if i had to double it up, it would still be considerably cheaper than Dynamat, Second Skin, etc. What do you guys think?

alright calm down.. i know the SQ guys are all worked up with sand in thair clams right about now.... i want better sound in my car.. i have some highs and mids but not enough.. i wanna get a cleaner sound. i have 2 bl 15's on a saz 3000d. and then i have 2 sets of 5x7 alpine typr R comps in the doors and in the rear deck. it sounds good at mid to low volume, but when i turn it up to higher volumes the tweeters are steal sounding and the word are ran over a bit by the subs.. its not THAT bad.. if you watch some of my vids you can see that some songs are better then others ...... some sound good.. and then other songs are just blah... i know 5x7s are junk..…

Hey i need help with my box build. I have a 03 Solara, 2 L7's and im powering them with a eclispe DA7232. so the first box i built, 5.0 cf with kickers recomended port didnt fit and i am now learning the pains of severe disapointment! so now that i progressed from building simple sealed boxes to ported and f.g. enclousers i am stuck at fitting them in a trunk where they wont physicaly fit. So would someone who has mastered this process please help this newbe who just wants to have some good sounds to go along with these badass subs, Or even beter someone who has a solara and a simular setup. I would like to use the area under the rear deck for the encloser and using …

I have a weird question; I plan on attempting to build some Kick panels. I have some Fiberglass and Kevlar material that might work. But I want your opinion. All this material is about .015 -.035 thick per layer, yeah it would take a lot of layers. This is a Spun-lace polyester material, Its 4

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Are 45*s needed with in boxes that use PVC tubing as ports? Also I designed my box using Win ISD and was told to make the box roughly 2.0 @36hz and use 10" of 4" pvc. Now does WIN ISD take in to account for the space taken up by the PVC or do I have to make the box larger?

Are 45*s needed with in boxes that use PVC tubing as ports?

I found a sweet deal I just picked up a killer old school soundstream Rubicon 1002. The blue one. It does 250x2@4 underrated, and 1000x1 at 4 ohm and 2. Will be PLENTY of power for the old front stage. And just a all around sweet amp And I've seen them sell for $250+. I got it for $85... nice...

Alright, I want to switch to Aeros from my slot port to give my subs some more airpsace (2 15s with 5.5cubes is a little small for me).. anyways could anyone help me out here, I know how to design a slot port but not a aero port. How many would I need to get proper port area and the length for say 31-32hz? Box is 38.25wx16hx24.5d

I have 2 sd1v2 10" running on a 1000d. I like the sd1v2s and all but want a little more. Anyone experienced Kicker CVTs. If so will they hit harder than these sundowns? The sd1v2s are sq's, are the CVT's straight SPLs?

O just for giggles i built a lil oh 3cu tuned to 34hz box. . threw it in teh car hooked it up and it gets loud about as loud as my sealed 2 sub box.. But the thing i hate hate hate is that, it only does this at the higher hz's. Like low low bass plays but it doesn't rattle anything ect ect... I think my 18's had me spoiled though and i could just be being biased, lol So to compensate for the lows what would be a better tuning for my needs..28? or should i just go back to 18's

so my RL-i 10 has arrived, now i'm waiting on the amp. my 1st question is this. would putting the driver on the back side of the truck box be a bad thing? i know to allow for excursion clearance, but it would still be pretty close to the back wall of the cab (regular cab ranger btw). would there be some adverse effects from the air the sub is pushing not escaping away from the sub fast enough? here is a crude 1 minute drawing. i was thinking if it would be alright to face backwards; i would extend the sides of the box to act as a separator between the box and cab. i've seen boxes like this before, but they were facing the front to give separation from the seat. this n…

a box's internal dimensions - 10.5" high 35.5" wide 20" deep If i put a port in it width-wise, slot port along the wall, 10.5" high x 4" wide, and run it across and leave a 4" gap from the wall resulting in port length being 31.5" long + 0.75" for wood thickness exiting box... When i calculate port displacement, do i find the cubic volume of 10.5" x 4.75"(plus thickness of wood) x 31.5" or 10.5" x 4.75" by 35.5" ? Do i take into account the effective area around the port too? because if i do then i would choose the 2nd option above as part of the displacement.

Hi, i have 2 offers for subs one is for 1 mt 15" quad .7 for about 300-325 and the other is for some 10" xsite D4 which i was thinking to get bout 6-8 for 28 ea. so...which should i get?? i want spl btw i dont care much bout sq... edit: i have a SAZ-1500d and planning on getting a 2nd one

ok, i'm gonna risk one hell of a flamming here and ask you guys. i was nomeened R-tard of the month on CA.com for saying this so chances are it's gonna happen here too, but what the hell K my question is can you guys hear the difference between a 4 ohm and 1 ohm load? now im not talking about sitting in someone else's car and knowing it, but if you have a 2x2 sub and wiring it to 1 and 4 ohm load. i have tried it with a two different amps(a 2 channel in 2 ohm bridge) and my current RF bd 1000.1. although on a 1 ohm load and lower it ponds like a bastard it just sounds too off, sort of muddy... this all applies if the amp is stable on those loads of course just curious...

Im really attracted to how loud this sub can get...but ive heard it an have some pretty imprssive SQ...qualities...i know about the BL Q and SSD but those just dont seem like they will get loud enough for me...so...BTL 12s in a big ass sealed box...think it might work?

Hello am from mexico and I want to know if anyone can recommend that woofers used to compete in spl stret beat and uses a pair of 3000.1 sundown in a car renault R5 Thanks style_team 150+

in a hatchback, anybody personally experienced a setup where the subs were within 3.5" from the glass producing over 2,000w of power? Is there any danger or am i worrying too much?

ok so i woke up today with spl on the mind, i called my local stereo shop that i once worked at, i requested a termlab run, the man told me it had not been used in 4 years, and didnt know how to use it even if it worked, he was worried about the mic, he said that maybe it had to be adjusted, or tuned, i dont know anything about that, but it said it could take weeks, i wanna see where im at on the scale, im also intrested to know where i would be at in SPL class, i have a car with a trunk and thats where the subs are at!.. no none walled, saz 3000d 3 yellow tops and 2 15's and my system sounds better with the windows down... is that outlaw? i dont know much about …

I've got quite a lot going on right now if you cant tell, I've got a client's SQ truck and my personal SPL build going at the same time. I've got some great info from you guys on the SQ build so lets try some on my SPL build. Last year we took state records in USACi in Stock 1801-3001, since then we've been addicted to going bigger and louder. We want to be able to still play music so, no pure tones/burp set up. We've got the durango ripped to down to having nothing but a dash, being completely deadened up. The idea sits at building a wall behind the B pillars for 4 18" BTLs. Haven't decided on what to do to power them yet. We have more than enough room to give them all…