SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have an 05 denali and want a 5 cu ft. box made. I went on re box calculator and my measurements I typed in made the box not square. Could someone give me a hand and give me some dimensions or a drawing???

I'm going to be building an enclosure for a friend here in the next couple of weeks for 4 10's. I drew out the layout of the box on a big piece of paper. The original plan was to have the 4 subs upfiring with the port facing back. However, 2 of the subs are really close to the port opening in the box. I'm just wondering if the subs being as close as they are, if it will affect the way the subs perform. I have an alternate plan to face 2 of the subs upfiring toward the middle of the top baffle, and have 2 rear firing on the same baffle as the port. I have drawn a simple sketchup of what it would look like in both situations so you kind of get an idea of what I'm talking ab…

I need some tips on doing a bed cut. This guy has 3 digital design 1500 12s. I cant remember the year or model but its a dodge single cab. The diminsions i got were 15" tall, 40" wide, and around 40" deep. He has them on a kicker zx 1000.1. I just need some tips on how i should go about doing this, since i have never done one before.

I have some final questions for my box build. I wanted to use two 8" aero ports that i was going to run through the rear deck to the box. Both ports will have to be 32 inches long which is two long. If i switch to two 6" will that be enough port area for two z 15's? I need to switch to a smaller diameter ports so they will be shorter. What are the pros/cons of doing this?

I have a question about ports. I am having finely decided to use round ports. But I have a problem; I have 8.89ft3 I want to tune around 38 Hz. The problem I run into is I need like 15’’ of port. The box is only 14’’ deep, going with 2 8’’ ports. So, can I bend the port with a 45? So it will make it in to the car with out a problem. If yes, do I have to add any thing to the length, or do I just cut the tube where it needs to be and add the 45 in between the cut peaces. Trunk setup subs up, port up going thought the rear deck.

I currently have my sub in a poorly designed enclosure accidently tuned to 53hz. Im going to have my dad build me a new one for my birthday. I designed one using the RE calc and came out with a "classic" L port box with the sub and port on same side, tuned to 31.5hz a 4.03 cubes. I want to have the sub facing up and the port back though because i use my trunk frequently and am paranoid about my sub. My question is how would i go about designing this? The total dimensions for the box i designed with sub and port same side are 26" W 21" H 20"D. I also was wondering how this would affect the sound and volume. Thanks alot for the help.

Ok, where do you guys buy your carpet for your builds? I want some really good carpet that doesnt have a bunch of crap on the back and is easy to use. I will be carpeting parts of my box, trim work and false floor. I've always used 3M 77 glue but I saw where some folks were spraying on that contact cement stuff. There really isnt much difference in the 2 right? I was checking out a lot of Thumper's enclosure builds and that guy did really good work. His forum looks like it hasnt been active in a while. Any idea what he uses? Thanks for any help. TST

What is the minimum number of yellowtops needed to run a Sundown 3000d? I've still got the stock alternator in the Frontier and want to see what I can do. BTW the Opti 50C is up for sale.

i'm planning on building a new bass speaker for my amp and while sorting out the components i'm gonna i stopped to thing about their different db-spl so i thought i'd asking the guys here if they know if i should choose woofers with the same (or about the same) spl

Im designing a new box for the new mag whenever it comes out and im going to stick my current sub in it for now (old 10" circle solo baric). I currently have it all figured out for 1.68 cubic feet. After the sub and port displacement that gives me the recommended 1.5 cubic feet with a 4 inch pvc port that is 19.12 inches long for a tuning of 32hz. Now my problem is that my box isnt long enough (20") for that lenght of port. Could I use 2 2 inch pvc ports each 9.55" to get the same tuning of 32hz? This will be going in my 05 king cab frontier so thats why im kinda limited on space. Also im thinking of putting the sub towards front of vehicle and port up, any advice t…

Ok. I've had 2 12" kicker l7's for a while, but blew one due to shitty setup, and not knowing anything and clipping all the time. Now that I've matured in car audio and have learned to respect the sq and not just bump myself stupid, I decided I wanted to go back and find out what the L7 is actually capable of given the right box. Now is where the trouble starts. I have no idea where to start building a box. I really have no idea how to either. Right now, the two subs are in a prefab dual ported chambered box and that is all I know. One sub is blown too, and I have no idea the tuning. I really want to build a new box. I'm not asking for step by step directions, just some …

I'm new to this forum, so let me know if this has already been covered. I have a Carvin HD900 amp and a RLP15d2 driver and want to build an MDF enclosure. I would like to position the driver so it is downward firing and would also like to have port(s), perhaps on the rear. I would like to have a width of 20" and height isn't a concern. I think I want to tune to around 14hz (want something really low) and need to know about amounts of polyfill inside the enclosure as well as internal bracing requirements, etc. Basically the whole picture:) I'm gonna run 900w in 4ohm bridged mono mode for power (think that makes sense...lol). Please help!! Thanks!!

I have an optima yellow top right now and its used for everything, starting and audio equipment. I'm looking into getting a new battery and was wondering if I should buy a red top and use it for starter battery and use yellow top for audio. Any suggestions?

hey guys, i recently took out my sub and amp because i needed the sitting space. my video pretty much explains what im looking ot do. any help would be appreciated!!

Hey everyone! I'm looking to replace my current set-up with something new. My amp just died today on the way home from work and so I'm in the need of a replacement. Currently I have a set of RS65.2's up front only, after pulling out the rear deck speakers. Having only a front sound stage is new to me but, after running it a few weeks, I got used to it and really enjoy it. What I'm looking for is either a new amp to power the existing set I already have (not sure how much life is left in them) or get a new amp and a set of components to match. Budget is ~500 but I wouldn't mind going a little more if I could get a nice eq in there to really dial in the system. If you need …

I drive an Olds Bravada (basically a blazer) and I drive it daily, but its a weekend warrior for spl. I have an AA Havoc 15, I'm building the box to the SSA Icon enclosure specs, and running it off a MB Quart Discus 1500. Which would sound better/get louder, facing the sub and port up, or sub and port back? If I face the sub up I can actually use some of my cargo area.. but that isn't a big necessity. It is a four door if that matters.

I don't have a disc to install windows on my mac, and I kinda want to use my TermLab. Does anyone know how to do this without using bootcamp or a visualizer?

This may sound like a stupid question, but I have yet to find someone who can give me a good answer to it: How do multiple drivers react when installed in a single undivided sealed enclosure - with regard to (Fb/F3 etc.)? For instance - Say you install 4 12" drivers in a single undivided 4.0 ft3 (Net) enclosure. Do the woofers react as if each driver was installed in it's own 1.0 ft3 box, as if each was installed in it's own 4.0 Ft3 box, or Somewhere in between? If so, is there some easy formula to calculate the volume that each driver "sees" to determine box response characteristics? Thanks, Hans

MY buddy drives a 2008 regular cab silverado..... He has a matrix 12' that is a fairly beefy subwoofer..... if im correct his amp is 1000 watt This weekend we plan to build a box like Fi-Ford Console/Enclosure...STEALTH - SSA Car Audio Forum Has built for trucks.... My question is.... WE plan on just doing it sealed to begin with... I think with this small of a truck it will be just fine and loud enough.... If he is no satisfied if we were to use like 1 or 2 tubes of pipe to port it would it in any way mess up the subwoofer or anything... ( could we vary the sound by length of the port in the box what size pipe would be best... ) also... if we do it either…

i have a 12" FI Q w/ BP option in a 2001 jeep grand cherokee. powered by a SAE 1000D @ 1ohm. right now it's in a 1.5cuft (external before displacements) enclosure that i had the (horribly stupid) local audio shop make for me. i was short on time. i'll let you know dimensions of the room i have to work with. but there is basically as much room as you could ever need for a single 12. or i want it ported tuned to anywhere close to 32hz. so yea, have fun, keep in mind this is my first box. and i don't want it to be over (i believe) 16 inches. i just want it to stay below my rear window level. thank you so much i know it's not really hard. it's just a temp box to get some prac…

Why did you get out of the competition scene in upstate abyway? I thought you had a good thing going. How high did the Orion setup ever get?

I will be soon upgrading my current sub and box setup in my F250. I am limited on space and think I can go 1.5cu without much issue or maybe even up to 2.cu if I add an extension piece. My goal here louder deeper harder hitting setup. Here is a pic of the space I can work with and my current box. 1 10in Fosgate p2 in .53 sealed. I can easily double the size of the current box or I can make almost like a L shaped box to utilize the lower section behind the pass side. Without using the the lower pass side I think I could do one that is (17in H.. 33in W.... 5in D1.....8in D2) this would be outside diameter and I will be using 3/4 MDF. This should be about perfect for o…

*hint hint My buddy is looking to build a center console box for an IA Lethal Injection 15. Looking at 3.5 cu ft ~50 inches of port and tuned to 32 Hz. Looking for suggestions and possible cut sheet. Going into a single cab dodge. From the back wall to as far forward as possible without losing cup holder is 48", between the seats is 14.75" and we're hoping to stay as low as possible for a custom arm-rest. Is this possible? How should he mount the sub? Trying to get as much SPL as he can for daily music listening. Driver displacement is 0.15 cu ft. I'd appreciate the help guys.

The magic numbers for the DCON 10 seems to be 1.25 cu ft, tuned to 32hz. Does the vehicle really have any significant play on that? I don't compete or anything. I just hear this thing really performs with little power. I've got all the components of my budget system except the sub and box. For some reason it's the hardest thing for me to decide on. I really wanted to get away with a prefab box, but they are all tuned around 38hz. What's the point of buying a decent sub if you're not going to maximize it's potential? Anyway, As far as box building goes are there any walkthroughs or step by step type guides? I can figure out all the dimensions and cuts but the assem…

Ok question 1 : Im planning on building my own box but when they say have 12-16 sq in of port space what does that mean? Which part of the port do you measure to get that figure. 2 : would a T-line be a better choice for 2 BTL 12s with a 2.5cuft box? or a regular L-port?