SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Putting this into a grand caravan, middle seats up, backseat stowed. Going ported, thinking 30-33hz tuning wise, any recommendations? Going to run it off a Sundown 1500d, so box size recommendations? Also, will be running the stock alt for awhile (160 factory). Doing my big 3 upgrade with 1/0 and a single run of 1/0 for now....later upgrades will be wiring and alt before anything else...also no sound deadening for now...also looking for any recommendations for sub/port orientation? sub/port back towards hatch, sub up/ports toward hatch, sub up/port facing side....anyone with experience in a minivan would be nice, not that most of you have one, but a guy can hope lol. than…

how does it measure the frequncy of the port if it does not know the displacement of the sub?

Why did you get out of the competition scene in upstate abyway? I thought you had a good thing going. How high did the Orion setup ever get?

Vehicle : 1973 VW Beetle Location in the vehicle: Rear cargo area; sub pointed up Space available (Length x Width x Height): 35" length x 12" depth x 12-15" height Subwoofer make and model: Fi SSD Subwoofer Size: 10 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Rectangle w/ 45's What type of music do you like?: EDM, RAP, Rock, Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday high sq Tuning Freq (Hz): 35 - 38hz? Volume : 1 - 1.5? Questions: So I have modeled up a few different enclosure in win isd but I just want some confirmation as to what you guys think will work best for my listening needs. From what I have read on this forum that I believe Fi recom…

Ok I am doing a box for 4 fi ssd 12's. It will be 8 cubes after displacement. I need help with the port tho. I am wanting to tune to like 35htz. I kinda want to try flared aeros but don't know what size or how many. Can someone help me out. Also need help with the length

Ok guys here's the deal...... I've built two boxes so far this summer and have had problems with both of them. I need to know the best spot to put the port in a regular cab truck, preferably a Ford Ranger. First Box: This one got pretty loud but there was a ton of port noise. It is 1.1@33hz with a 3'' aeroport up-firing. The reason I ditched it was the port noise and I didn't like how it fit behind the seats....too deep at the top. New box: 1.1@33 again with a 3'' aeroport. Now it fires into the corner about 4'' away from the side panel. The output dropped rediculously and also the bass is just so flat sounding....it sounds horrible. What should I do? I'd appreciate he…

When doing a blowthrough setup in a pickup, will it really make a difference as to whether the truck is extended cab or standard?

it didnt hit me how big it was until i started cutting the pieces, seriusly, its like a mini dog house... I gotta go buy another sheet of mdf, dam thats 44bux...22$ each I have my friends lil d-snap camera, but he didnt giv me the usb connector to get the pics off of the camera hopefully i'll get it 2ma.. and hopefully i'll be finished wt the box by then also. now i still gotta order the subs

Hello all! I am looking to reconfigure my trunk set-up in my Mazda 3 and am looking for some feedback on my idea to see if this would give me my desired result. Currently, I have the subwoofer firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up to the rear deck ( I use a flared round port). The problem is that the rear deck is completely solid and this causes quite a bit of rattling, even after deadening the whole trunk. What I am considering doing is rebuilding the box to have the sub firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up on the back of the box. In order to do this, I would need to put an elbow on the PVC port because the box will…

where should i start ? i have a newer truck 1996' 2 door Chevy 2500 x-cab. bench seat 60/40 amp is a Massive p3000.1 subs are Pap WMD-SPL 1000rms ea. anyone have expierance with this truck ???

Well I got a couple more 15" Rockford Fosgate RFR2215 Power DVC subs.. now I am ready to do my four 15's setup. At Slamology I got a 148.1 in DB Drag with 2 15's and 2 12's at 44hz. My goal with this new box build with four 15's is to hit 150db mark. I recently just started playing with Bass Box Pro and Google Sketchup and I have come up with a Design in Bass Box Pro and then tried to Model it the best I could in Google Sketchup so here it is. This will be powered by a T40001bd. 12 cubes after sub,port,bracing displacement with 1" MDF 4 6" PVC Ports 10.5" Long to get a tune at 38.01hz There will be a total of 9 1" Dowel rods for bracing in the box 4 from top to bottom 3…

Well, I have finally started my SQ system in my 98 Saturn. Since I have since sold my RX-7 I needed a new host vehicle. Here is what I have done and what is in store. Done so far: double layer of e-dead sound dampening on all 4 doors deck installed is a Pioneer Premier DEH-550MP front components are Focal Polykevlar 165K2 interconnects are all Knu Conceptz Equalizer is a Phoenix Gold 30 band EQ with balanced line driver amp for comps is an older US amps USA 150 Power wire is Memphis 0 guage Left to do: install sub (Hart Pro 12) install crossover (Sony XEC-100) install line driver (RW AUdio 6.8"msburp" installk sub amp (maybe old US Amps USA 100 Well, will keep everyone p…

so in a month or 2 i will be starting on my rebuild to run 2 old style XXX15's, 2 sundown saz-1500d's and other goodies i haven't decided yet(sound deading, comps and such). well, what my plan is on running these is to seal my trunk off from the cabin. for the box i want to forward fire it along with the port. from where i see it the baffle will sit 2-3 inches from the rear seat opening. the trunk space i have available is 40" wide, 17" tall, and about 29" deep. though for the size enclosure I'm going for about 6cu before displacement. i believe i have about 8-9cu before displacement total. here is a quick sketch i drew up on a graph paper. each cube length stands for 1" …

if any of you guys can give me an idea of what type of box works best for an early 90's cavalier station wagon id appreciate it, im a trunk guy and dont really know what works best in that type of vehicle, aside from a wall what do you guys suggest? the box will house 2 DD9512's dual 1.5 ohm subs and be powered by a single earthquake d10.

As the title says, has anyone ever built a steel enclosure? Does it sound any different? Just curious if its been done, if anything was gained, etc. This is more geared for spl

I'm just wondering, being new to this forum. Who on here competes & who doesn't. Also, what sanctioning bodies are you all in? Also, any1 on here also on the CS&P forums?

My next car is hopefully going to be a 2002 Subaru Sti hatch, and I'm going to wall it with 6 Fi IB3's on a 7k. Pic 1 Pic 2 My first question is, should I build just a baffle, was thinking 9" baffle; or should I build a partial box and with the back seat removed leave the rear open to the trunk and deaden the fuck out of the lid, along with magnetic locks around the perimeter to keep it from slapping? The second smaller question is, I was daydreaming and thought of putting a trapdoor in the trunk floor on actuators to vent to the ground when I'm driving on the highway or at a show for more airflow. Worth it, or just a nice passing thought…

Hello family, I'm working on a design for my new SPL ( only ) enclosure. My last few enclosures had lots of impedance rise and I would like this one not to. Are there so thing I can do to help keep the rise down? A little more info for you. Box 1.8cuft, port 6" Precision Port tuned to 44hz., 3/4 birch x2 baffle. The sub is a Kicker solo X 10 D1 any help would be great. Wise guys need not reply I have no time to play.

I can get my whole box to bounce up and down on the really low notes, and the woods vibrates a little more than I want. My box has no internal bracing, and it has a double baffle. 33inches wide x 32 inches deep x 12.75 inches high Now how can I strengthen this box without it taking up too much volume (minimum amount) and without having things poke out on the outside. I would use allthread, but that would cause me to have the end/bolt sticking out of the edge of the wood, which cannot happen because the box fits pretty tight. I was thinking about fiberglassing or using wooden dowels. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks!!!! Note: please don't get into arguments about strength an…

I have in the past been using Loctite Heavy Duty 2part epoxy for steel to wood and steel to steel... I do not like it... It sometimes adheres good enough to steel to steel but steel to wood.. it sucks.. I have broken the bonds so many times after days of let cure... I need something GREAT!.. I had been pointed to contact cement... Is this a viable option? I have recently looked at a product claiming to be the BEST bonding agent in the world.. practically. It's called Mitrebond. It claims to glue everything to everything. They said it's actually a CA glue that has been widened for many things. Pot time is 15seconds, hehe and comes with activator. IT's $$$ for how mu…

I know this question has been posted before all over, but many of the discussions just turn into b***hfests, and no straight good answer is given. Would stuffing (polyfill etc...), or lining (vibration damper, mlv, etc...) a properly sized and well built box make any difference on the sound quality/characteristics of the subwoofer it contains? I'm looking for one good answer please, not a million random opinions. My head is just in a daze after looking at how many odd forum posts that don't answer the question I'm posing. Thanks to anyone who has good knowledge on this topic!

if i bought 10 of these and made a super big ported box ( i think they are supposed to be IB?) would it sound worthy of the money i spent (slightly more than the daytons)? spl is more imporant, but sq cant just be dismissed. I found a ultra cheap in-wall 8" subwoofer. 22 bucks. thump option 2 I would be using those instead of four dayton 12's Boom option number 1

Im starting my build in about a week or so and i narrowed my design down to two options. The first option is to have the sub up firing at the rear deck with a kerfed port(s) firing back or sub up firing at the trunk lid with a kerfed port(s) firing into the cabin. after doing a lot of searching i see a lot that like the sub up port back. The reason i chose these two designs is because i cant do both sub and port back or sub back and port to the side. Which option would yield better results? I also its vehicle dependent but my box will have to be build inside the trunk so moving it around is pretty much out the question

heres my box measurements 5.339 cubic feet i want to use areo ports to tune this box to 30 Hz I want to use maybe 2 - 4 inch areos or what ever you guys think would be the best to use please include the measurement of the flares too please break down the measurements to the areos ill get them for parts express. thanks guys, Bill. ps I need to know asap cause i have the box built its ready to go.

ok so i got a 2001 4runner and i need a box for a 10 downt know how much watts or even what sub yet but would slot ported be my best bet for a daily want to hit all notes but 33 or 34 hertz will be my bottom end what i want any help would be appreciated