Automotive and Performance

http://www.dropshots.com/videolink.php?use...940&showVideo=1

Saw these pics on Lateral-G, 2007 Duramax and Allison 6 speed auto I think this is the PMR car, but I'm not sure. Either way, cool to see, and gives me ideas

Just had to get back in a old truck. Traded my 60 Biscayne for this well done 71 C10. It's a mild 355cu and a TH400 trans. All new interior, paint is only a couple years old. I was alittle unsure of the wheels but after having it a couple days and the reaction this truck gets I think I will just lower it more and leave it alone. I really like this 70's muscle look. Out with the old In with the new Needs some sounds although the cam sounds killer in this truck. Looks like a head unit, 4 channel and components are in order.

i think mine is taking a dump, my system has been weak as i made a topic about the problem 2 weeks ago, now its whining, i bought my current HOA from ebay... just a no name... it worked fine.. but now is not. i emailed OHIO and thay never respond to my emails. i emailed them before and thay never responded thats why i dont have an ohio currently i know iraggi has had problems latly... so who else do we use? i want atleast a 200 amp. no less. and if i can find a daily 300amp t hat would be sweet

The price on these have finally fallen into the "affordable" category for us, so we bought one against our better judgment. But man is this car awesome! 306hp, and shifts like it's on drugs.

I was thinking about this recently with all the increasing pressure on raising MPG and emission requirements. Personally, my vote for me in my life time, would be turbo diesel. It seems to be the most natural way for now, no BS complaints about the infrastructure, similar performance to gas motors, and proven durability. Was just curious as to what our other car nuts on here are thinking. Hydrogen has serious potential, and no waste product. BMW is proving some stellar performance with their's. Toyota has done very good work with Hybrids, but the system is still $$$. GM is getting credit for making their Tahoe get 20mpg with their hybrid system, all the while a stan…

So after a couple months I finally got my George Balias muffler and elbow pipe for my 2010 Buell xb12ss. Installation was anything but a breeze. But that wasn't GB's fault, more so the fact that the oil filter was in the way of me disconnecting a mounting bracket for the original exhaust. ended up having to just sawing it off! So that was hard, especially because we didn't have power... but other than that the thing bolted right up!!! definately weighs less than stock, somewhere near 1/2 original muffler weight i would say. The look isn't too aftermarket, it actually looks like to me that it actually might belong on the bike. Picture time!! Note: The GB exhaust doesn't ut…

So I took the E55 to the stealership today to get that oil leak checked out and fixed. Got to talking with the service representatives and she claims that, as long as you use a Mercedes approved oil (MB 229.5) and filter, oil change intervals are 10 months/10,000 miles. Given that dealing with stealerships and their asshattery ranks one notch below "getting anally probed" on my "Things I Enjoy" list, I came here to seek council. So basically: bullshit, maybe, yes? I honestly haven't a clue.

http://customizeyourvehicle.org/viewtopic.1500.html garage below !! http://customizeyourvehicle.org/garage.php..._vehicle&CID=32

so i went to the grocery store about 10 mins ago. truck was fine there. on the way home my truck wouldnt stop accelerating. i have to literally push the brake down as hard as i can and then it starts burning out. when i got home, as much as i didnt want to, i slammed it in park and shut my truck off. i have absolutely no idea what in the hell is going on. If anyone has ANY information on this please post anything. Im really hoping it something small but with my luck i know it will be expensive.

Well here is my new baby. We picked it up Thursday afternoon from the local dealership. Below are pics. J

How much would you budget for a full swap, removing the sohc v6, and swapping the awd drive train and v8 from a mountaineer into a 2dr exploder, start to finish? I plan to pick up a second donor vehicle by summer, so I'll have plenty of parts, but I've never been involved with a swap before. I'm definitely paying someone for labor, and taking notes. I've seen a few done, but all anyone remarks on price is "lots" which is frustrating. I'm hoping this project costs less than $6k to complete, 7500 tops

Got bored, figured i would post up a few of my toys ..... comments and constructive criticism much appreciated some work on some banshee cylinders i did for a guy few years back ...

long story short, my bros car is breakin down, hes leaving in a few months, he drive my car for a while, i get a new car. when bro gone, daddy drives my old car. Well ive decided to get a 94 crown victoria, and stuck between two cars 1. Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor $1500 and 164k miles http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_...&cardist=22 2. Ford Crown Victoria LX Sedan $1900 103k miles http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?rdpa...&cardist=29 I like the way the white one looks much better than the blue one, its cheaper, and a "police interceptor" but the drawback is the mileage. I looked up both on carfax and both seem to check out good. my one o…

Like this much better than the K&N CAI, everyone needs one. Especially with the added weight of audio equipment. I'll have to shoot some better looking final photos sometime.

I am going to be doing springs on both cars, probably ordered them today for a combo discount. (No, not doing coil overs at this time as I do not track either car, or drive either hard enough to get that aggressive with the suspension.) So, over the years for my personal cars, I have only used Eibach and H&R. But now going full into the Japanese side of the auto word, (taking a German breather) there is a whole new world of aftermarket brands I don't have as much hands on driving or owning experience. In this case, price is not a deciding factor, as all four options are with in $20 of each other. Also, ride height differences are with-in 0.4" total of each other,…

what up yall, well i had some car trouble today that came out of nowhere. i was driving to go get some food and when i was accelerating it would seem like my car would jerk forward kinda, or almost feel like it was shifting gears like a manual. mines a automatic. so the check engine light is now on and when i went to get back in my car like 2 hours later it seemed like it was harder for the car to start. Anyone have any idea of what might have happened. it started out of nowhere with the kinda jerking forward type action. all right thanks

All stock 2012 LML Duramax except a custom EFI Live Tune .. dyno was ran at around 900ft elevation, about 68 degrees.. not sure on the humidity or barometric pressure .. no corrections

Need to start contacting some companies soon so i can figure out with this new vehicle i have if custom springs are possible or if i'm stickin to to custom air this time around. I really dont wanna do air as i didn't allocate space for that..

The car is a 1999 ford contour. I've changed almost the entire front end suspension(outer tie rod ends, sway bars, sway linkages, replaced the strut and springs) and now I think my inner tie rod ends are clunking a bit. I'm just wanting some opinions on if I should try to change them myself or pay a shop to do it. I have the chiltons for my car and all the tools I need, but my dad said he's never changed em so he can't give his honest opinion. Main reason I want to do it my self is the knowledge I'll gain and the money I'll save. The parts about 30 bucks each but to have a shop change them it's gonna run about 200+ each side. Wha do yu guys think

My Jeep has had a bit of what I think is lifter tick, audible between 2 and 3k rpm. No lifter tick on startup though. I plan on changing the oil (it's a diesel engine) and I've been thinking about what to add to the oil before changing it to help clear up the ticking noise. I've read that adding diesel fuel or ATF to the oil, running the car for a few minutes, then changing the oil helps. It's an old pushrod design and taking the heads off to remove the lifters would only make me get head studs, which I don't want to do right now. What are your thoughts on this? Seth ?

where does everyone get theirs?

tire size is 205-45 r17, at least h speed rated. looking for all season, prefer treadwear over performance, though performance can't be mushy. run flats aren't needed and budget is about $400 at this time. i have a hook up for most brands, so budget doesn't need to be spot on. current tires considering are.. falken ze912 kumho ecsta ast yokomaha prada spec 2 and in that order as well. yay or nay? what would you buy and why? thanks folks! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_YWKc_c51c

Ok guys I was wondering if anyone knows how to change the run time on my 2009 ford escape xlt factory remote starter. It didn't come from the factory with the starter I just had the factory unit put in a couple of months ago and noticed today that it only runs for 10 minutes and it was supposed to be set to the 15 min setting. I called the dealer ship but they can't get me in for 2 weeks. Is it something that I can do? I looked over the book from the starter but it doesn't say how to change the run time.